Spike Conical- observations and best practices

[Chorgey]

In early July, I sent an IM to Spike, asking "With the PRV... I want to pressure ferment. Do I need to use a blowoff tube first or can I install the PRV from the beginning of fermentation?"

Their response was...

 

[YeastFeast]

In early July, I sent an IM to Spike, asking "With the PRV... I want to pressure ferment. Do I need to use a blowoff tube first or can I install the PRV from the beginning of fermentation?"

Their response was...

View attachment 778737

Hmmmm....that's interesting?! So if you pressure ferment, no need for a blowoff tube, if not pressure fermenting, use a blow off? I haven't pressure fermented yet so I don't understand how that changes the activity of fermentation?

 

[Chorgey]

Hmmmm....that's interesting?! So if you pressure ferment, no need for a blowoff tube, if not pressure fermenting, use a blow off? I haven't pressure fermented yet so I don't understand how that changes the activity of fermentation?

I haven't tried it yet and cannot give any first hand observations.
Maybe @SpikeBrewing can weigh in on this.

 

[Whalewang]

So if you pressure ferment, no need for a blowoff tube, if not pressure fermenting, use a blow off?

This is exactly what I'm doing.

I wouldn't pressure ferment if your going to dry hop else a potential hop volcano.

 

[Whalewang]

I'm struggling to get my DIY glycol chiller colder than 38F. The solution around the radiator/fins ice up when I get approach that temp. I'm using 20% glycol which I believe means that the freezing temp should be around 20F. Interesting, I was getting around the same temps (in the chiller) using 100% water.

Bad glycol?
Do I need some kind of re-circulation pump in there? If yes, any suggestions?
Do I need to be using a higher ratio of glycol?

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

I mix mine 50/50, I don't have a recirculating pump.

 

[Whalewang]

I mix mine 50/50, I don't have a recirculating pump.

What's the size of your reservoir? Mine's 10 Gal.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

Mine is 5gallon. I used to have a DIY one that was 10 gallon but it crapped out on me so I bit the bullet and bought one. I used 50/50 in my old diy one also.

 

[CottonBrew]

I'm struggling to get my DIY glycol chiller colder than 38F. The solution around the radiator/fins ice up when I get approach that temp. I'm using 20% glycol which I believe means that the freezing temp should be around 20F. Interesting, I was getting around the same temps (in the chiller) using 100% water.

Bad glycol?
Do I need some kind of re-circulation pump in there? If yes, any suggestions?
Do I need to be using a higher ratio of glycol?

Glycol chiller system cooling potential is all about the volume of glycol flowed through the fermenter heat exchanger at the chiller set point. More volume and/or colder set point will allow the fermenter to reach a colder temperature. A higher glycol ratio allows for the chiller to run a lower set point. Although a higher glycol ratio will typically cause the pump to slow and flow rate will be reduced. There is an optimum glycol ratio for the highest pump flow and the lowest glycol set point. See my post #2652.

It sounds like your chiller is icing up which means your glycol ratio is not high enough. Check the specific gravity of the glycol solution to verify the ratio. On my system I got chiller icing at 26F and 15% glycol. See page 2 and 3 of the document linked below for Brix reference values.
https://www.solventsandpetroleum.com/uploads/6/0/3/7/60372849/dowfrost.pdf

 

[Wagon_6]

Finally got a conical since I upgraded to 10g batches. I have a 2 inch valve before the site glass and after. I’m not using the elbow. After reading through, it sounds like this should be my process:

- transfer from BK with site glass open. Dump trub 20-30 minutes after?
- oxygenate through carb stone.
- pitch yeast.
- keep site glass valve open.
- once fermentation is complete, crash to 50 degrees.
- dump/save yeast in site glass.
- sanitize, reattach, open site glass valve. After some time, will I have to dump another site glass full of yeast?
- add dry hops, let free temp free rise.
- CO2 bubble hops from the bottom a couple times over a day.
- dump dry hops.
- crash temp and keg

Thanks!

 

[Jesse Runowski]

- sanitize, reattach, open site glass valve. After some time, will I have to dump another site glass full of yeast?

Since you have a 2" valve after the site glass, I would dump yeast with the site glass attached. As long as you are pushing CO2 through the top gas manifold you should have positive pressure reducing/eliminating O2 intake. If you take the site glass off you'll want to make sure to purge it thoroughly with Co2 before opening the value between it and your tank bottom. If you don't, all of the O2 will go straight into your brew.

I had to get leg extensions to make enough room for the site glass, value and connector that is hooked to 3" tubing to dump yeast / hops. Still a super tight fit.

 

[Wagon_6]

Do you use a hose to drain the trub/yeast/hops? Any trouble with the dry hops clogging standard 1/2” silicone tubing?

I got the gas QD x 2” TC so it’s pretty easy to purge the empty space with CO2 while reattaching. I’ve done 2 trub dumps by taking off the site glass, it’s an art form. If the tubing doesn’t clog, that way appears to be simpler.

 

[kingmatt]

Do you use a hose to drain the trub/yeast/hops? Any trouble with the dry hops clogging standard 1/2” silicone tubing?

I got the gas QD x 2” TC so it’s pretty easy to purge the empty space with CO2 while reattaching. I’ve done 2 trub dumps by taking off the site glass, it’s an art form. If the tubing doesn’t clog, that way appears to be simpler.

I use a 3 inch piece of silicon tubing when I do my yeast and hop dumps and I haven't had a problem so far (and i brew with a LOT of hops). I keep positive pressure on the conical at about 5 psi and VERY slowly open by botton valve until I get things flowing. Be ready to shut the valve at a moments notice if things start flowing too fast.

I usually end up doing 2-3 smaller dumps for both yeast and hops over a day or 2 to allow things that go stirred up to settle back down. I've found this is effective in getting everything out without losing too much beer.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

+1 to what @kingmatt said, with 5psi open the valve a very small amount and wait for it to do its thing, otherwise the liquid will just punch a hole through the trub/yeast rather then pushing it out. I use a length of 1/2 silicone and have not had an issue doing it this way. I dump some trub before I soft crash and again after a good 36 to 48 hour soft crash. Then I dry hop. I find it easier to dump yeast if I get some trub out before the soft crash.

 

[Wagon_6]

Awesome, thanks!

 

[Pacific Electric]

Yeah, I'm one of them. I haven't had time to update here until now. I did hear back after 3 weeks, and like you I was getting frustrated. What I was told was this was a supplier/material issue with the gasket, which is somehow causing poor gasket fitment and thus leaks. They offered me a temporary replacement, which sounds like you may have received, while they are waiting on properly spec'd lid gaskets (1-2 month lead time).

The temp lid has the gasket permanently siliconed in place, and they claim it's able to achieve the 15PSI seal. I opted not to have them ship me a temp lid and gasket (waste of resources for the couple of beers I could ferment in 1-2 months). Instead I will have to carb the slow way in my kegs. Not the ideal experience when buying a shiny new toy, but I now better understand why it was taking them some time to get to an answer.

Looking forward to my first conical fermentation this weekend!

New replacement gaskets are in. Got mine in the mail today. They no longer have a flat side and a pointed side but now both sides have the same point. Will pressure test it tomorrow but went in just as easy as the old style. Tried my best to get a photo - new on left old on right.

 

[Gozie Boy]

Question about the dry hop dump set up and operation. I developed a very similar hop dump rig as shown in the last 3-4 pages (all 1-1/2 inch hardware). I did some "dry run" tests with hops prior to an actual brew, and found that I could not get the hops to drop. I tapped, pounded, worked the valve, etc., and they just sat in the site glass. I have been thinking about going to a 2" site glass with a reducer attaching to the 1-1/2" lid fitting, but before going to that expense (given the uncertainty of whether that would even work), I thought I would ask you who are successfully dropping with 1-1/2" rigs what your experience and secret of success has been in doing so. Thx.

[I have NOT read ALL 77 pages of posts, so apologies if this has been covered previously.]

 

[kingmatt]

Question about the dry hop dump set up and operation. I developed a very similar hop dump rig as shown in the last 3-4 pages (all 1-1/2 inch hardware). I did some "dry run" tests with hops prior to an actual brew, and found that I could not get the hops to drop. I tapped, pounded, worked the valve, etc., and they just sat in the site glass. I have been thinking about going to a 2" site glass with a reducer attaching to the 1-1/2" lid fitting, but before going to that expense (given the uncertainty of whether that would even work), I thought I would ask you who are successfully dropping with 1-1/2" rigs what your experience and secret of success has been in doing so. Thx.

[I have NOT read ALL 77 pages of posts, so apologies if this has been covered previously.]

I open an close my valve repeatedly and that is usally enough to get them to drop. If not, I have a rubber mallet handy and tap the reducer (not too hard!) repeatedly while opening and closing the valve and then has always worked to get them all to drop.

 

[TLaffey]

Question about the dry hop dump set up and operation. I developed a very similar hop dump rig as shown in the last 3-4 pages (all 1-1/2 inch hardware). I did some "dry run" tests with hops prior to an actual brew, and found that I could not get the hops to drop. I tapped, pounded, worked the valve, etc., and they just sat in the site glass. I have been thinking about going to a 2" site glass with a reducer attaching to the 1-1/2" lid fitting, but before going to that expense (given the uncertainty of whether that would even work), I thought I would ask you who are successfully dropping with 1-1/2" rigs what your experience and secret of success has been in doing so. Thx.

[I have NOT read ALL 77 pages of posts, so apologies if this has been covered previously.]

I never had success with a 1.5" valve, so went to 2" as you are thinking. I posted a photo in #2661 (Spike Conical- observations and best practices) I still occasionally need to use a rubber mallet on the valve to get pellets dropping.

 

[YeastFeast]

I use a ball valve (all 1.5”) and no problems at all. I set the dryhopper 1psi higher than the tank is set at and it always works fine.
See video…

 

[YeastFeast]

Curious, what temp do you cold crash to before the transfer?

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

Curious, what temp do you cold crash to before the transfer?

I go to 38f for atleast 24 hours

 

[Whalewang]

Anyone using their cooling coil setup to keep the fermenter temp warm in cooler months? E.g. An immersion water heater in a small cooler.

 

[pennengr]

Anyone using their cooling coil setup to keep the fermenter temp warm in cooler months? E.g. An immersion water heater in a small cooler.

Easier to just use a reptile pad heater taped to the cone and plugged in to your controller.

 

[Tbelanger]

I don't see this prv having an issue with clogging, personally I have the 3 port lid and I fill my cf15 pretty high and get blow off a lot of the time. So that's why I use the the blow off tube. I also have my prv on a riser to keep any foam from climbing into it. View attachment 778619

I might go with this setup with the valve/blowoff. I noticed that even if you drain the sanitizer cup there is still some on top of the plunger that goes into the fermenter along with whatever else. This way you can use the blowoff to dump the pressure instead

 

[Whalewang]

Easier to just use a reptile pad heater taped to the cone and plugged in to your controller.

Anyone know what's the minimum wattage I'd need if my garage stays above freezing?

 

[pennengr]

Sorry - I just have the one spike sells now, but I use it inside the house.

 

[sibelman]

@Whalewang, you may want to create an insulated enclosure (e.g. cardboard box lined with foam panels or fiberglass batts) to help a low wattage heat source achieve the required temperature in a cold space.

 

[Darth_Duane]

So I have had my CF5 for a couple of years now but recently my fermentation fridge/kegerator died so rather than replace it I purchased an Icemaster max 2 and a chilling coil from spike. I modified my max 2 for heating using this video:



And I have been quite pleased with how it came out.

Unfortunately I leak tested the chiller but not the coils, I was so excited when they came in I just brewed a beer and threw it in there after cleaning. I swapped out my blow off this morning to start spunding with my fancy new PRV only to find the vessel wasn't holding pressure after a few hours. I goosed the pressure manually only to hear bubbles coming out of my glycol chiller. After disassembling the whole rig I found a pinhole leak at where the welds hold the coils to the lid. Since the batch got 1/4 gallon or so of glycol solution in it I very sadly dumped it this morning, my first ever dumper. Super disappointing.

Spike asked me to send them a video of the leak but then promptly setup a replacement order. Which of course is amazing, but dumping my first batch and losing my brew day was pretty demoralizing. Hopefully they ship out the replacement soon and I can actually play with my new toys.

 

[Jack Arandir]

I'm experiencing something similar. Spike CF15 with racking arm and PRV. Gas is leaking out somewhere, but I can't locate it. It seems to be on or near the PRV. Hopefully I don't get glycol leaking into the beer and ruin the batch like yours.