Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

[BierFest]

The only real problem i have had with my braumeister is what many others have had - the hop leaves block the outlet valve when pouring to my fermenter. However overall its not a problem that makes me regret buying the braumeister.

I have been looking at many ways to resolve this and was going to get an Stainless hop spider type container with a hole in the center to sit down through the center rod. This would resolve this problem but also would probably result in a faster clean up time too.

However I have just spotted that Speidel appear to have a small filter now available for this problem. The only thing is that I cant figure out where/how you fit it to the braumeister - http://speidels-braumeister.de/shop/de/Zubehoer/Brauprozess/Hopfensieb

Does anybody else have one? Or perhaps it is just a container for the hops? Unfortunately the website has no further information on this.

 

[flemming]

It looks like it just slips over the top lip of the Braumeister and the screen simply covers the outlet port. This isn't something you put the hops into, but rather a really coarse filter to keep them from entering the spigot.

Robert

 

[ShakaZuluXI]

Well...after reading this entire thread through twice, I just pulled the trigger and ordered the 20L Braumeister from Thorsten at MoreBeer4U in Florida. The 4-6 week wait now starts. Have an electrician coming this week to install the 220v outlet for me in the garage. I'm also hoping to go down to Key West for a "brew camp" that Thorsten is going to set up for me in January. Sounds like he helped a guy open a microbrewery in Key West using the industrial sized Braumeister units...so I hope I can make that trip work....that would be really cool to see. If I do go, I'll be sure to report back here and provide any photos I take.

 

[Sprouthog]

I also got a 20l two weeks ago and brewed my 1st batch last week. Loved the ease of use and clean up. One kettle no pumps no tubing. As far as the poor boil, not at sea level. Boil over at 99. I know to keep my eye on it now when it gets near the boil. No pump issues with a course grind at .45. 78% efficiency was good for first time. Think I can increase that with some tweaking but I hit my OG. Used pellet hops, whirlpool, chiller and a double screen strainer on the out flow. Wort at 67 and going through strainer aerated it to perfection.

Thanks everyone who posted and helped me throughout the process.

 

[beefeater]

Wow, this tread has become long!!

Haven't brewed in a while, but today I'm starting my catching up with a two-brew day.
Just finished cooling the first one, an APA and as soon as it is in the bucket I'll rinse out the Braumeister quickly and start heating water for the second brew, a hopilicious IIPA

Since my Braumeister brewdays are so laid back I've been browsing the web a lot today, catching up on brewing stuff. I came over this video on Youtube. It's probably been posted before but this tread is too long to read through now.

Anyway I really liked it so it can't hurt to repost it

 

[brautim]

Does anyone know when mashing, if the BM uses 1 or both heating elements?

I'm asking this because when using the 20L malt pipe and the [spiedel] recommended 23 litres of water for the mash, when the mash starts and the pumps begin the level of water outside the mash pipe drops just below the top element of the outer heater. I added another 4 litres so that the elements were covered just in case, but I'm now wondering if only the inner element is activated by design.

 

[OooGeeMac]

Sorry if this has been asked recently...I am interested in the Braumeister 200L. Does anyone know of any brewpub/ nanobrewery in the United States using one?

 

[Sprouthog]

Sorry if this has been asked recently...I am interested in the Braumeister 200L. Does anyone know of any brewpub/ nanobrewery in the United States using one?

Post 2193.

Contact Thorsten at MoreBeer4U, he is the Speidel US rep. If anyone knows he will.

 

[rkovatch]

I have the 50l and have made a few of the mods suggested on this thread. I purchased some silicon tubing to seal the top filter on the malt pipe, but the wall of the tubing is too big.

1) I tried to fit it in cold. Does the malt pipe need to heat up and expand before it will fit?

2) Does anyone have a link or specific example of what they used? I ordered the high temp tubing from Northern Brewer, which seems too big.

Thanks in advance for your help. This thread has been a great resource.

 

[rkovatch]

Does anyone know when mashing, if the BM uses 1 or both heating elements? I'm asking this because when using the 20L malt pipe and the [spiedel] recommended 23 litres of water for the mash, when the mash starts and the pumps begin the level of water outside the mash pipe drops just below the top element of the outer heater. I added another 4 litres so that the elements were covered just in case, but I'm now wondering if only the inner element is activated by design.

That is a good question. It would make sense that only the inner coils are being used, but I am not sure. Once a boil is needed then all coils are on deck. I would be interested to know. Have you found the answer yet by chance?

 

[Sprouthog]

Question for anyone who's double mashed in a 20l or 50l to make high OG beer.

How do you divide your grains when mashing? Specialty/base, 50/50 mix or other way. I was asked about dryness if mashing base malt in both mashes. What is your experience?

 

[ShakaZuluXI]

Howdy Braumeister users. I am hoping to have my 20L unit in the next 2-3 weeks, and am trying to plan my first brew. I was thinking of going with the following Belgian Dubbel recipe that is the "beer of the week" on the HBA website:

Ingredients for 6 U.S. Gallons (23 L)
10.6 lbs (4.81 kg) | Belgian Pilsner malt
1.0 lbs (0.45 kg) | Light Munich malt
0.5 lbs (227 g) | Aromatic malt
0.5 lbs (227 g) | CaraMunich malt
0.5 lbs (227 g) | Special "B" malt
1.5 oz (43 g) | Tettnang hops, 4% AA (60 min)
0.5 lbs (227 g) | Cane Sugar
0.75 lbs (340 g) | Dark Belgian Candi Syrup (60°L)
Yeast | WLP530 Abbey Ale or WY 3787 Trappist High Gravity, 2.5 packages (or appropriate starter).
*The recipe is intended to yield 6 gallons at the end of the boil. 5.5 gallons are assumed to be racked to the fermenter (accounting for 1/2 gallon loss). Final volume should be 5 gallons for bottling (accounting for 1/2 gallon loss).
Specifications
Original Gravity: 1.064
Specific Gravity: 1.012
IBU: 23
Color: 15 SRM
ABV: 6.9%
Boil Time: 60-90 mins as needed


Any chance there is a 20L user out there that could comment how to best execute this recpie in the Braumeister? Does this seem like a reasonable choice for a first brew?

 

[Sprouthog]

Howdy Braumeister users. I am hoping to have my 20L unit in the next 2-3 weeks, and am trying to plan my first brew. I was thinking of going with the following Belgian Dubbel recipe that is the "beer of the week" on the HBA website:

Ingredients for 6 U.S. Gallons (23 L)
10.6 lbs (4.81 kg) | Belgian Pilsner malt
1.0 lbs (0.45 kg) | Light Munich malt
0.5 lbs (227 g) | Aromatic malt
0.5 lbs (227 g) | CaraMunich malt
0.5 lbs (227 g) | Special "B" malt
1.5 oz (43 g) | Tettnang hops, 4% AA (60 min)
0.5 lbs (227 g) | Cane Sugar
0.75 lbs (340 g) | Dark Belgian Candi Syrup (60°L)
Yeast | WLP530 Abbey Ale or WY 3787 Trappist High Gravity, 2.5 packages (or appropriate starter).
*The recipe is intended to yield 6 gallons at the end of the boil. 5.5 gallons are assumed to be racked to the fermenter (accounting for 1/2 gallon loss). Final volume should be 5 gallons for bottling (accounting for 1/2 gallon loss).
Specifications
Original Gravity: 1.064
Specific Gravity: 1.012
IBU: 23
Color: 15 SRM
ABV: 6.9%
Boil Time: 60-90 mins as needed


Any chance there is a 20L user out there that could comment how to best execute this recpie in the Braumeister? Does this seem like a reasonable choice for a first brew?

Looks like an awesome recipe but maybe a little ambitious for the first time due to the grain bill being close to the 20l grain capacity. Not saying it can't be done but you may be pushing the learning curve a little quick. May want to go with something smaller to make sure the system works properly with your grind, water levels, circulation, etc. Definitely use a refractometer during the process.

 

[DeGarre]

I wouldn't use much more than 5 kg on the first brew. Scale it down and up the sugar.

Start with 25L and rinse with further 5 and if you have time make notes on volumes at various stages. Then on 2nd brew adjust if you think you can have better efficiencies etc.

Most of all, don't stress. Have a fun day instead.

 

[rkovatch]

I got an answer from Ralf at Speidel ref post# 2196.

thanks for using our Braumeister.

Please add the 4ltr more that the elements are covered.
Both are starting to heat when you run the mashing.

It would be possible for a small batch to disconnect the outer heating element.
Then you can work with less water.

best regards
Ralf Leukart

Speidel Tank- und Behälterbau GmbH
i.A. Ralf Leukart
Vertriebsgruppenleiter

 

[ferlin]

Shopping for a new chiller for my 20L. Does anyone use this one? MoreBeer WC30

 

[Sprouthog]

Shopping for a new chiller for my 20L. Does anyone use this one? MoreBeer WC30

Works great. Boiling to 67 in less than 15 min. My ground water temp is 52. I use QD's and garden hoses. Make sure you check the wort temp directly because the 20l was reading high when chilling compared to my thermapen. Could have easily over chilled it.

 

[ferlin]

Works great. Boiling to 67 in less than 15 min. My ground water temp is 52. I use QD's and garden hoses. Make sure you check the wort temp directly because the 20l was reading high when chilling compared to my thermapen. Could have easily over chilled it.

Thanks for the info! I saw "ten gallon batches" and I got scared. I can't wait to make my first batch. I had a blast just making hot water!

 

[Sprouthog]

Thanks for the info! I saw "ten gallon batches" and I got scared. I can't wait to make my first batch. I had a blast just making hot water!

I was also worried when it said 10 gallons but fits nicely inside the heating coils and you'll have some of the copper tubing above the 25l mark but it sanitizes nice at the end of the boil. I usually dip mine in star san before adding it to the wort just to be safe. 1/2" give you lots of surface area for the cooling. Don't hook up your hoses until your ready to cool because the steam or heat coming out of the chiller may be to much for the hoses your using and use an ov glove of some sort so you don't burn your hands while making connections. Use brass or ss QD's. Love this system.

 

[ferlin]

I was also worried when it said 10 gallons but fits nicely inside the heating coils and you'll have some of the copper tubing above the 25l mark but it sanitizes nice at the end of the boil. I usually dip mine in star san before adding it to the wort just to be safe. 1/2" give you lots of surface area for the cooling. Don't hook up your hoses until your ready to cool because the steam or heat coming out of the chiller may be to much for the hoses your using and use an ov glove of some sort so you don't burn your hands while making connections. Use brass or ss QD's. Love this system.

Thanks again. I think you just answered my next 5 questions.

 

[brautim]

I got an answer from Ralf at Speidel ref post# 2196.

thanks for using our Braumeister.

Please add the 4ltr more that the elements are covered.
Both are starting to heat when you run the mashing.

It would be possible for a small batch to disconnect the outer heating element.
Then you can work with less water.

best regards
Ralf Leukart

Speidel Tank- und Behälterbau GmbH
i.A. Ralf Leukart
Vertriebsgruppenleiter

Great stuff, they should add this info to their manual. It's easy to identify the outer element plug, just trace the cables.

 

[jdebonth]

Does anyone know when mashing, if the BM uses 1 or both heating elements?

I'm asking this because when using the 20L malt pipe and the [spiedel] recommended 23 litres of water for the mash, when the mash starts and the pumps begin the level of water outside the mash pipe drops just below the top element of the outer heater. I added another 4 litres so that the elements were covered just in case, but I'm now wondering if only the inner element is activated by design.

I personally also found this strange. Their reco of 23L for a 20L batch leads to exposed scorching outer heating elements. I guess the 23L guideline holds true only for the 20L BM and not 50L with 20L malt pipe.

Interesting idea to unplug the outer heating elements. Has anyone tried this? Would be interesting to know if the inner heating elements have enough output to keep the wort at around 60-70C during mashing.

If so, this would allow much higher pre-boil OG extraction! (I guess you could get away with using 20L with the outer heating elements off - you need only enough water to ensure the pumps to not run dry).

Thanks for sharing the email, very interesting info!

 

[wasp]

Don't hook up your hoses until your ready to cool because the steam or heat coming out of the chiller may be to much for the hoses your using and use an ov glove of some sort so you don't burn your hands while making connections. Use brass or ss QD's.

Or: StarSan the chiller, then start the cooling water before lowering it into the boiled wort (making sure the waste is LOCATED SECURELY - or have a mop handy ).

 

[shaund91]

Just want to say thank you to everyone in this thread, read through most of the 2000+ posts and have decided to order a braumeister myself!

 

[Smeller]

It looks like it is possible to put the top screen in "upside down" thus giving more space for malt. Has anyone tried this?

 

[Nesto]

Was reminded by a PM about this mod that I tried...

...

Mods:
4. Malt pipe screens. I haven't tried these gaskets yet, but they are on their way for me to try out.

So the gaskets fit the plate perfectly, but they are too thick to allow the plate to slip into the malt pipe. And I had to put the top filter plate on upside down (with the sleeve facing down instead of up) because the bar and wing nut will not fit otherwise.

I think I will still use it though. What I did was put the thin screen in first on top of the grist and not inside the gasket. Then I put on the thick filter plate, with the silicon gasket on it, on top of the malt pipe. It doesn't slip down into the pipe, but sits on top and makes a good seal. It worked pretty well on my 2nd brew day. Absolutely no grain got into the pump vs. my first brew which had a lot of grain in the pump.

 

[Nesto]

It looks like it is possible to put the top screen in "upside down" thus giving more space for malt. Has anyone tried this?

I see a couple problems. I'm not near my system, but I think the bar and wing nut wouldn't be able to hold the screen down far enough, so as soon as the pump starts working it would probably push the fine screen and filter plate up far enough to allow lots of grain to get pumped into the kettle.

And then it would be harder to take the filter plate out (after mash is done) since there is nothing to grab onto.

See my post just above for one way to do this. If you use a gasket, it will sit right on the top on the malt pipe and you will have to put it on "upside down" to have enough thread to put the wing nut on. It will make a tight seal. My first run through worked perfectly.

 

[Soviet]

I've been brewing on my system for a while, and I'm still noticing some DMS off flavor issues in my pilsner-base malt beers. I do a 90 minute boil standard, and chill below 100F withing 15 minutes. Not sure what's going on here...

Is anybody out there using a heat-stick with their setup? How about a copper hood? What is your recorded boil-off rate with those methods?

 

[Sprouthog]

Don't aerate wort above 80F and chill as close to primary ferment temp as possible. I don't use a heat stick or copper hood. I keep boil near 23l for final product using 4-6l of sparged wort.

 

[jdebonth]

It looks like it is possible to put the top screen in "upside down" thus giving more space for malt. Has anyone tried this?

yes, just use a few washers above the top screen to ensure no grains escape around the edges. another easy method to push the OG limitation needle slightly.