Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

[dinnerstick]

update on the speidel fermenter: if i could have overcome the initial high temp, this would have gone really well. overnight after pitching a huge amount of wyeast 1968 (i always pitch big with this yeast) it got up to 25 when i wanted it at 19, but it cooled down by the afternoon. i just kegged it, it tastes ok, i'll have to wait and see if it's really estery/headachey. cleanup was only marginally more time consuming than after a normal brewday, the capacity is much larger than my normal fermenter, so dry hopping was a breeze. if i can be sure i can keep it chilly over the first day i'll do it again

 

[lylo]

I am about to jump in the kettle with you guys but might need a little push. I would like to here from some of you about the typical brew day. My main concern is the overall length of day. I read 1 post that claimed 10 hrs. That seems way high to someone who BIABs's with single infusion and no-chill, in about 4 1/2 hrs. I expect I will continue with no-chill(cause I like it) so probably your times to:
1-Ramp to mash
2-ramp to Mashout lets say 78C
3- ramp to boil
These numbers would be great for me. I am halfway through my second reading of all posts and haven't been able to find any threads on this topic. I can hardly wait for morebeer to get these back in stock.I check their site daily even though they promise to e-mail me when they are in.
Morebeer!!Cmon already before,SWMBO figures out what I'm doing!!

 

[dinnerstick]

depends of course on your starting / tap water temp. in the winter mine is single digits, let's say 7. i usually dough in around 50-54C. 23 liters takes ~30-40 minutes to get to strike temp. the ramp from there to sacc. rest temps of 65-68, assuming good circulation through the grain bed, takes maybe 10-15 minutes, and ramp to mash out maybe 10 minutes. there is probably a lot more variation among BM users in lautering time; this will of course depend on how well your grain bed flows, whether you sparge, where you sparge (into a separate vessel while already heating your first runnings) etc

assuming i have milled my grains in advance it typically takes me:
set-up 10 minutes, heat strike water 40 min, dough in 5 min, protein rest 15 min, ramp to sacc 10 min, sacc rest 60 min, ramp to mashout 10 min, mashout 10 min, lift pipe and start lautering 5 min, sparge (pre-heated on stovetop) 15 min, remove malt tube and continue lautering somewhere else, bring to boil 20 min, boil 60 min, cool wort and knock out (variable, depends on how much other stuff i'm doing) 45 min, oxygen + yeast + setting up temp control 15 min, cleanup 60 min.
something like 6-7 hours for me

 

[brewbush]

I am about to jump in the kettle with you guys but might need a little push. I would like to here from some of you about the typical brew day. My main concern is the overall length of day. I read 1 post that claimed 10 hrs. That seems way high to someone who BIABs's with single infusion and no-chill, in about 4 1/2 hrs. I expect I will continue with no-chill(cause I like it) so probably your times to:
1-Ramp to mash
2-ramp to Mashout lets say 78C
3- ramp to boil
These numbers would be great for me. I am halfway through my second reading of all posts and haven't been able to find any threads on this topic. I can hardly wait for morebeer to get these back in stock.I check their site daily even though they promise to e-mail me when they are in.
Morebeer!!Cmon already before,SWMBO figures out what I'm doing!!

For me, I absolutely love my 20L. I brew in my basement, and can not be any easier.

1. to get to mash in temp it takes about 30-45 minutes iirc
2. to get to mashout is another 1-2 hrs depending on your cycle that you program.
3. I get up to boiling in another 30 or so minutes...it is already at mashout temps, so it does not take long.

For me my day is much, much shorter then when I was a propane person.

You also have to remember, even if the temperature ramps are too long for you....you can go do something else while the machine does the work. You just have to make sure to check for stuck pump and may have to stir, but other then that you have MORE free time.

 

[lylo]

Thats the kind of info I'm looking for.I feel like somekind of jock getting phsyched up for a big game. I am stoked and ready for morebeer to get stock!!!

 

[swiggingpig]

I am about to jump in the kettle with you guys but might need a little push. I would like to here from some of you about the typical brew day. My main concern is the overall length of day. I read 1 post that claimed 10 hrs. That seems way high to someone who BIABs's with single infusion and no-chill, in about 4 1/2 hrs. I expect I will continue with no-chill(cause I like it) so probably your times to:
1-Ramp to mash
2-ramp to Mashout lets say 78C
3- ramp to boil
These numbers would be great for me. I am halfway through my second reading of all posts and haven't been able to find any threads on this topic. I can hardly wait for morebeer to get these back in stock.I check their site daily even though they promise to e-mail me when they are in.
Morebeer!!Cmon already before,SWMBO figures out what I'm doing!!

My brew day normally takes around 5 hours with the 20L BM including cleaning up.

 

[roomfullofmirrors]

These Beersmith 2 profiles may be a place to start for brewers using the software. I got them to a point where I was happy enough with them, but they are far from perfect.

They are built from the profile of a brewer named Snow on the Beersmith forum.

View attachment 50LBM(A).bsmx

View attachment 50LBM(B).bsmx

 

[psehorne]

I am about to jump in the kettle with you guys but might need a little push. I would like to here from some of you about the typical brew day.

My 20L has been pretty consistent in 10 brews from October til now in ramping

 

[psehorne]

I am about to jump in the kettle with you guys but might need a little push. I would like to here from some of you about the typical brew day.

My 20L has been pretty consistent in 10 brews from October til now in ramping the temp at 1C/min. (For example to go from mashout of 76C to boil at 100C takes 24 minutes). I'm in North Texas and usually brew on days when the temp are around 50F in the morning with a high in the mid 60s in the afternoon this time of year. A typical day starts at 9AM and by 3PM I have finished including cleanup - 6hrs.

 

[Ragtop232]

I just received my Braumeister 20L today. One of the latest to come out of Germany as I was told by Morebeer.com they had just unloaded the container. Anyway, I've heard many on here complain about the legs cutting them when they handle them. I don't know if this is new or I'm late to the party, but the bottom of each of the legs now have some kind of edging that will prevent scuffing and the sharp edge. I'll show you pics below.

It will be a couple weeks before it's maiden voyage, but I'm really looking forward to brewing on this machine. I'm also happy to say mine arrived without a scratch or dent. I believe they've worked on their packaging as well as everything was packed very snug and tied down.

Anyway, I look forward to participating in this thread and sharing my journey on the Braumeister 20L.

Jim

 

[lylo]

My BM 20l shipped today. California to Alberta Canada. Can't effing wait!!

 

[dinnerstick]

I just received my Braumeister 20L today. One of the latest to come out of Germany as I was told by Morebeer.com they had just unloaded the container. Anyway, I've heard many on here complain about the legs cutting them when they handle them. I don't know if this is new or I'm late to the party, but the bottom of each of the legs now have some kind of edging that will prevent scuffing and the sharp edge. I'll show you pics below.

It will be a couple weeks before it's maiden voyage, but I'm really looking forward to brewing on this machine. I'm also happy to say mine arrived without a scratch or dent. I believe they've worked on their packaging as well as everything was packed very snug and tied down.

Anyway, I look forward to participating in this thread and sharing my journey on the Braumeister 20L.

Jim

welcome to the speidel support group!
the cute little shoes is a good start, but still watch out for the sides of the legs as well, those can be a bit dangerous on mine when you grab them with a wet hand. speidel should think about rounding off the edge or something. are they using a different pump now too? anyways happy brewing!

 

[Ragtop232]

There's been a couple questions about the pump. Here is a close-up of the label.

Jim

 

[brian320fo]

I seem to have a problem with over attenuation on many of my brews. The temperature readings on the BM computer match my thermometer so I'm guessing the temps are correct. Since I do a protein rest I figure that the ramp up time to 68* must also be acting as a Beta rest. Does anyone compensate for this or experience far more attenuation than expected? I just did an APA with an OG of 1.061 and an FG of 1.008. I used:

50* for 20 Minutes
68* for 90 Minutes
77* for 10 Minutes
10 lbs Pale Two Row US
1 lb Victory
.75 lb Munich
2 Packs US-05 and
O2 through an inline sintering stone.

Any thoughts?

 

[Obliviousbrew]

I will skip the protein rest at 50 C, if you still want to do a protein rest, do it between 52C and 55C and if using well modified malts it can be shorter 20 minutes it´s a little excesive. A little overpitched too, that maybe have something to do with it.
For APAs i usually mash in at 52C get 55C hold there for 5-10 minutes and then single infusion for 60 minutes at 66-68, mash out at 78C for 15 minutes.

 

[tequilatom]

Can anyone tell me the diameter of the center threaded post on the 50L? I want to alter the malt pipe like Batfink did, and need to get a longer distance sleeve (out of stainless tubing). I found some tubing on Amazon, but need to know what inner diameter to get. I am getting everything I need ready before ordering mine early next month.
Thanks!

 

[flemming]

Can anyone tell me the diameter of the center threaded post on the 50L? I want to alter the malt pipe like Batfink did, and need to get a longer distance sleeve (out of stainless tubing). I found some tubing on Amazon, but need to know what inner diameter to get. I am getting everything I need ready before ordering mine early next month.
Thanks!

The spacer tube that comes with the short malt pipe has an I.D. of 13mm and an O.D. of 16mm.

Robert

 

[tequilatom]

The spacer tube that comes with the short malt pipe has an I.D. of 13mm and an O.D. of 16mm.

Robert

Thanks! Saved me from buying the wrong size!

 

[lylo]

It came today!! Test drive Thursday and taken it live on Saturday!!

 

[lylo]

Getting psyched up now! I really need to know what to expect for a boil off rate. I tried doing a search of the forum but returned waaay to many results/non results. I don't have my 220 wiring done yet to give the 20L a test run but would like to start planning the brewday.
Thanks

 

[Ragtop232]

Lylo, I haven't tried mine yet, but I'm planning on about 1 gal boil off / hr. This might be slightly high depending on how rapid the boil is.

I'll report back after I try mine. As far as the cord, I have a 4 prong dryer receptacle that i'm going to use. I found a heavy duty computer/server power cord, c13 with 14 awg wire. I also purchased a 12 awg extension cord, c13 as well, and cut the male plug end off and purchased a 4 prong dryer plug and made my cord. I've tried it out and tested the voltage and it works like a charm.

Jim

 

[psehorne]

Getting psyched up now! I really need to know what to expect for a boil off rate. I tried doing a search of the forum but returned waaay to many results/non results. I don't have my 220 wiring done yet to give the 20L a test run but would like to start planning the brewday.
Thanks

Boil-off varies somewhat with the barometric pressure and your ground elevation, since with low pressure and high altitude aggressive boil can easily be obtained, but with high pressure and low altitude an aggressive boil requires more than 100C.

For me 3.6L / hour with the lid off works pretty good. My ground elevation is 640ft. When the barometric pressure is 30 or below I get an aggressive boil at 100C, but when pressure is higher it takes 101C to get an aggressive boil with the lid off.

With the lid on much of the steam condenses on the lid and drips back into the kettle, so boil-off is less. Of course, an aggressive boil is easier to obtain.

You will need to make a best guess, keep accurate records, and fine tune your equipment profile.

 

[psehorne]

I don't have my 220 wiring done yet to give the 20L a test run but would like to start planning the brewday.
Thanks

This power cord available on Amazon will plug directly into the Braumeister 20L. Use a matching L6-20R (also available from local hardware stores) and no cutting of cables is required.

 

[DeGarre]

I boil for an hour, lid is half on, sometimes off during, not the most aggressive boil and I lose about 3 litres.

Mash with 26, rinse with 6, start of boil I have 26+, end of boil 23, hops soak a bit too.

 

[lylo]

Trial run with water i got 3.4 liters/hr. my boil temp in here in Alberta at 850meters was 97 degrees.Should I be boiling my hops longer?

 

[dinnerstick]

do you mean because of lower alpha acid isomerization at lower temp? i doubt your utilization is going to be hugely different between 97 and 100, or between 100 and whatever ghastly temperature water boils at down here below sea level, but if you are consistent with your brewing then it doesn't matter, figure out what tastes right for you and adjust bittering charges in your recipes across the board by a small % if necessary

 

[lylo]

Thanks dinnerstick I will stay with my usual calcs.

 

[lylo]

Does anyone take volume measurements?? Where do you take them from?
The 25L marks seems to be accurate when taken from the top of the flat ledge at the bottom of the post. Does this account for the volume displaced by the element and post?

 

[thdewitt]

I know this is a really old post, but at an RV store you cant get an extension cord for 220V. You can get very long ones if you want.

 

[dinnerstick]

Does anyone take volume measurements?? Where do you take them from?
The 25L marks seems to be accurate when taken from the top of the flat ledge at the bottom of the post. Does this account for the volume displaced by the element and post?

(hey we're in a new forum now!)
i measured the actual volume at the 15, 20, 25L markings in my machine and they are pretty accurate. so yes, they take into account the element, post, pump volume, etc. i generally estimate from them, which of course is not super accurate when you're boiling a frothy hoppy brew and trying to estimate 22 liters or whatever. i also made a steel dip stick (out of a kebab skewer, scratched in markings with an awl- it's pretty lame) with 1 liter increments, which is better but not perfect, still hard to read during the boil, and i measured the displacement of my wort chiller (exactly 1 liter, conveniently). i will at some point make a real dip tube that is possible to read without burning my hand and eyeball! i think that's the only way to get a good volume reading