Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

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Mike_McBrew

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I'm not sure my calculations are correct but I think that with a max grain bill of 6 Kg then 30 litres after the boil would give a max OG of:

1.044 at 70% efficiency
1.035 at 55% efficiency

for 25 litres that becomes

1.053 at 70% efficiency
1.042 at 55% efficiency

So if the post I quoted earlier is correct then 30 litres seems possible unless I want a high OG beer (although at 20 litres / 6 Kg then 1.067 is achievable at 70% efficiency).

Am I missing something?
It goes back to my original question:

I am therefore assuming that the malt pipe is not a water volume limitation but does limit the total malt weight that can be used and hence the beer strength.
Mike
 

Willee

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Just got a used 20L Braumeister and these are my first comments about it.

First batch was planed to be a 5 gallon batch.
The standard malt tube (grain bucket) requires a minimum of 6 gallons of water to start with.
Otherwise the top coil of the heater is exposed to air when the pump takes the water from the outer area and pumps it into the Malt tube.
Until the malt tube (grain bucket) fills and overflows no liquid will flow back into the outer area and that is where the heating coils are.
They do sell a shorter Malt tube but if the standard one was about 1 inch shorter it would fix this.
Or possably moving the coils 1 inch lower might fix it also.
I have ordered the short Malt tube and hope it will hold enough grain for a 5 gallon run.
This one has the older controller and it will allow you to run the unit manually much like a GrainFather. The big difference is the flow of mash liquid from the bottom of the grain to the top instead of from the the top to bottom. Is this better? I dont know but it is different.
Once the Malt tube is up on its upper stops for sparging the sparge water flows from top to bottom thru the grain.
Running on 220 volts it seems to heat much faster than my GrainFather running on 110 volts.
My only other comment would be about the placement of the control unit at the bottom of the boiler.
If you have the unit setting on a table it is easy to see and control but lifting the malt tube up after mashing is not so easy. Setting on the floor, lifting the malt tube up and onto the stops is easy but then the controller is near the floor and hard to see. GrainFather was smart putting the controller where they did and giving it a slanted face so it is easy to see and control when the unit is setting on the floor.

I look forward to seeing what other think of this system.
 

wobdee

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Just got a used 20L Braumeister and these are my first comments about it.

First batch was planed to be a 5 gallon batch.
The standard malt tube (grain bucket) requires a minimum of 6 gallons of water to start with.
Otherwise the top coil of the heater is exposed to air when the pump takes the water from the outer area and pumps it into the Malt tube.
Until the malt tube (grain bucket) fills and overflows no liquid will flow back into the outer area and that is where the heating coils are.
They do sell a shorter Malt tube but if the standard one was about 1 inch shorter it would fix this.
Or possably moving the coils 1 inch lower might fix it also.
I have ordered the short Malt tube and hope it will hold enough grain for a 5 gallon run.
This one has the older controller and it will allow you to run the unit manually much like a GrainFather. The big difference is the flow of mash liquid from the bottom of the grain to the top instead of from the the top to bottom. Is this better? I dont know but it is different.
Once the Malt tube is up on its upper stops for sparging the sparge water flows from top to bottom thru the grain.
Running on 220 volts it seems to heat much faster than my GrainFather running on 110 volts.
My only other comment would be about the placement of the control unit at the bottom of the boiler.
If you have the unit setting on a table it is easy to see and control but lifting the malt tube up after mashing is not so easy. Setting on the floor, lifting the malt tube up and onto the stops is easy but then the controller is near the floor and hard to see. GrainFather was smart putting the controller where they did and giving it a slanted face so it is easy to see and control when the unit is setting on the floor.

I look forward to seeing what other think of this system.
The short malt pipe is designed for 2.5 gal batches not 5. You should have no problem with the standard 20l malt pipe for a 5 gal batch. You shouldn't have to sparge for a 5 gal batch as well, many use more water to start with and even flood the malt pipe to forgo the sparge.
 
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i've been using my 20L braumeister for five years now and still absolutely love it. occasionally i do brew a big beer and need to use some DME to hit my gravity - but i don't view that as a negative as it rarely comes up.

i do "rinse" the grain bed with sparge water a few times, which of course isn't really sparging per se. i've thought about going to no sparge but haven't been terribly motivated to do so, so me and my coffee urn continue in the same mode and i don't mind it a bit. some day i'll do the experiment of flooding it vs rinsing 1L at a time but haven't done so yet.

i don't even think i took the pump apart the first four years i used it, without any issues. i now do check/clean it each batch and this is super easy.

my old-style controller did fail after three years and i replaced it with the new version, and haven't had any issues since.

-jason

Just got a used 20L Braumeister and these are my first comments about it.

First batch was planed to be a 5 gallon batch.
The standard malt tube (grain bucket) requires a minimum of 6 gallons of water to start with.
Otherwise the top coil of the heater is exposed to air when the pump takes the water from the outer area and pumps it into the Malt tube.
Until the malt tube (grain bucket) fills and overflows no liquid will flow back into the outer area and that is where the heating coils are.
They do sell a shorter Malt tube but if the standard one was about 1 inch shorter it would fix this.
Or possably moving the coils 1 inch lower might fix it also.
I have ordered the short Malt tube and hope it will hold enough grain for a 5 gallon run.
This one has the older controller and it will allow you to run the unit manually much like a GrainFather. The big difference is the flow of mash liquid from the bottom of the grain to the top instead of from the the top to bottom. Is this better? I dont know but it is different.
Once the Malt tube is up on its upper stops for sparging the sparge water flows from top to bottom thru the grain.
Running on 220 volts it seems to heat much faster than my GrainFather running on 110 volts.
My only other comment would be about the placement of the control unit at the bottom of the boiler.
If you have the unit setting on a table it is easy to see and control but lifting the malt tube up after mashing is not so easy. Setting on the floor, lifting the malt tube up and onto the stops is easy but then the controller is near the floor and hard to see. GrainFather was smart putting the controller where they did and giving it a slanted face so it is easy to see and control when the unit is setting on the floor.

I look forward to seeing what other think of this system.
 

Willee

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here is what the info says about the short malt pipe.
"By utilizing this shortened mash pipe, you can now brew either a 2.5 or 5 gallon batch with your 20L Braumeister!"
So it is possable to brew 5 gal with it ... according to what they say.
 

wobdee

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here is what the info says about the short malt pipe.
"By utilizing this shortened mash pipe, you can now brew either a 2.5 or 5 gallon batch with your 20L Braumeister!"
So it is possable to brew 5 gal with it ... according to what they say.
No, a 2.5 with the short pipe and a 5 with the standard pipe. You can't brew a 2.5 gal batch with the standard 20l pipe so they basically cut it in half for smaller batches not larger. You still need the larger malt pipe for 5 gal batches.
 

Willee

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No, a 2.5 with the short pipe and a 5 with the standard pipe. You can't brew a 2.5 gal batch with the standard 20l pipe so they basically cut it in half for smaller batches not larger. You still need the larger malt pipe for 5 gal batches.
I guess they have mis-advertized this ... I'll send it back as soon as it gets here.
 

Garage12brewing

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Hi there, I just found this old Braumeister thread. I have been using a 20L for about 3 years and now I upgraded to a 50L system. If anyone with questions about his system I will be glad to help. I also use Speidel conical fermenters and chilling system and controllers.
 

Jglover17

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Hi there, I just found this old Braumeister thread. I have been using a 20L for about 3 years and now I upgraded to a 50L system. If anyone with questions about his system I will be glad to help. I also use Speidel conical fermenters and chilling system and controllers.
Hey there! I see you're a fellow Canadian. Have you done any mod's to your system? I'm looking for an option to improve the valve, so I can connect easier to my pump. Also, do you have the vented lid? I can't seem to source one in Canada.
 

Garage12brewing

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Hey there! I see you're a fellow Canadian. Have you done any mod's to your system? I'm looking for an option to improve the valve, so I can connect easier to my pump. Also, do you have the vented lid? I can't seem to source one in Canada.
Hi ! Why are you using a pump exactly ? To transfer the wort I guess ? If so Speidel offer this :

https://homebrewsupplies.ca/product/4591-speidel-20l-wort-pump-pipe/

Are you talking about the vented hood ?

https://homebrewsupplies.ca/product/2745-stainless-steel-hood-20l/

If so you can order it from these guys too at Canadian Home brew supply.
 

Jglover17

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