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Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

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Hmmm...looks like my comments created some discomfort...

First, if I have offended anybody, my apologies. That wasn't my intention.

Multipletazas: it was never my intention to push you into making a decision, one way or another. As I said before, you're the one who has to be happy with your system. If you like the braumeister, by all means, go for it. I was just stating my opinion.

Also, consider that my beer brewing experience, as of today, is exactly "0". Not only I have never brewed a single beer batch, but I actually don't even drink beer.

However, I have a lot of experience designing and building machines.

My comment above was in response to the comment I quoted. I believe the brutus is more flexible than the braumeister. I also KNOW you can build a brutus at a fraction of the cost.

Let me give you an example.

I'm now in the process of designing a system, for me to hopefully build in the near future. A very important (and expensive) part of that system, at least for me, is gonna be the brew kettle, which I plan to build out of 1/8" thick copper plate. Looking it up online (never the cheapest choice when it comes to metals), a 36"x48" sheet of 1/8" thick copper is $660, give or take a few bucks. That sheet will be enough for a 7 gallon kettle, with a cone bottom and lid.
Add to that a couple of kegs, plumbing, heating elements, etc, and I'm looking at about $1200-1400 for the whole rig. And that because I want a kettle that most will probably qualify as an unnecessary luxury item. I could easily make the rig with 3 kegs (that I can find used for about $50 each), and the whole system would be way less than a grand.
I could even build the kettle out of thinner copper sheet (#16, or even #18 would be more than enough for a 7 gallon kettle), and still keep it under a grand. And, with that, I'd be able to boil a full 5 gallon batch, instead of having to do a partial boil. Not saying it's better than a partial boil, or even that I'd do it, but if I wanted to, I could.

Now, about my "material handler" comment.
If that comment sounded in any way derogatory, again, that wasn't my intention at all. I used to be a material handler at a factory. A material handler is the person who feeds the "recipe" (the materials) to a machine, so it can do its job. He does have control over the recipe (even if he doesn't formulate it), but not over the process. That's why I made that comment.
It's true that micro brewery systems (and some systems here) are fully automated, yet their operator is called a "master brewer" instead of a "material handler". But, in those systems, usually the master brewer has complete control over the whole process, which he can fully customize to his needs. I haven't really looked that deeply into the braumeister's features, but I don't think it gives the user that kind of control.

So, those are the reasons I said what I said. Again, I apologize if anyone felt offended by any of my comments, but, right or not, that's my opinion of it.
 
Hmmm...looks like my comments created some discomfort...

First, if I have offended anybody, my apologies. That wasn't my intention.

Multipletazas: it was never my intention to push you into making a decision, one way or another. As I said before, you're the one who has to be happy with your system. If you like the braumeister, by all means, go for it. I was just stating my opinion.

Also, consider that my beer brewing experience, as of today, is exactly "0". Not only I have never brewed a single beer batch, but I actually don't even drink beer.

However, I have a lot of experience designing and building machines.

My comment above was in response to the comment I quoted. I believe the brutus is more flexible than the braumeister. I also KNOW you can build a brutus at a fraction of the cost.

Let me give you an example.

I'm now in the process of designing a system, for me to hopefully build in the near future. A very important (and expensive) part of that system, at least for me, is gonna be the brew kettle, which I plan to build out of 1/8" thick copper plate. Looking it up online (never the cheapest choice when it comes to metals), a 36"x48" sheet of 1/8" thick copper is $660, give or take a few bucks. That sheet will be enough for a 7 gallon kettle, with a cone bottom and lid.
Add to that a couple of kegs, plumbing, heating elements, etc, and I'm looking at about $1200-1400 for the whole rig. And that because I want a kettle that most will probably qualify as an unnecessary luxury item. I could easily make the rig with 3 kegs (that I can find used for about $50 each), and the whole system would be way less than a grand.
I could even build the kettle out of thinner copper sheet (#16, or even #18 would be more than enough for a 7 gallon kettle), and still keep it under a grand. And, with that, I'd be able to boil a full 5 gallon batch, instead of having to do a partial boil. Not saying it's better than a partial boil, or even that I'd do it, but if I wanted to, I could.

Now, about my "material handler" comment.
If that comment sounded in any way derogatory, again, that wasn't my intention at all. I used to be a material handler at a factory. A material handler is the person who feeds the "recipe" (the materials) to a machine, so it can do its job. He does have control over the recipe (even if he doesn't formulate it), but not over the process. That's why I made that comment.
It's true that micro brewery systems (and some systems here) are fully automated, yet their operator is called a "master brewer" instead of a "material handler". But, in those systems, usually the master brewer has complete control over the whole process, which he can fully customize to his needs. I haven't really looked that deeply into the braumeister's features, but I don't think it gives the user that kind of control.

So, those are the reasons I said what I said. Again, I apologize if anyone felt offended by any of my comments, but, right or not, that's my opinion of it.

Sounds good man i take no offense what so ever. You know how to work copper? thats pretty cool. I didnt want to spend the 300 dollars they were asking for the cool copper lid for the braumaister so im going to take a shot at making it my self. im not sure how to make that but ill figure it out. if you have any pointers let me know as i could use them .
 
Hmmm...looks like my comments created some discomfort...

First, if I have offended anybody, my apologies. That wasn't my intention.

Multipletazas: it was never my intention to push you into making a decision, one way or another. As I said before, you're the one who has to be happy with your system. If you like the braumeister, by all means, go for it. I was just stating my opinion.

Also, consider that my beer brewing experience, as of today, is exactly "0". Not only I have never brewed a single beer batch, but I actually don't even drink beer.

However, I have a lot of experience designing and building machines.

My comment above was in response to the comment I quoted. I believe the brutus is more flexible than the braumeister. I also KNOW you can build a brutus at a fraction of the cost.

Let me give you an example.

I'm now in the process of designing a system, for me to hopefully build in the near future. A very important (and expensive) part of that system, at least for me, is gonna be the brew kettle, which I plan to build out of 1/8" thick copper plate. Looking it up online (never the cheapest choice when it comes to metals), a 36"x48" sheet of 1/8" thick copper is $660, give or take a few bucks. That sheet will be enough for a 7 gallon kettle, with a cone bottom and lid.
Add to that a couple of kegs, plumbing, heating elements, etc, and I'm looking at about $1200-1400 for the whole rig. And that because I want a kettle that most will probably qualify as an unnecessary luxury item. I could easily make the rig with 3 kegs (that I can find used for about $50 each), and the whole system would be way less than a grand.
I could even build the kettle out of thinner copper sheet (#16, or even #18 would be more than enough for a 7 gallon kettle), and still keep it under a grand. And, with that, I'd be able to boil a full 5 gallon batch, instead of having to do a partial boil. Not saying it's better than a partial boil, or even that I'd do it, but if I wanted to, I could.

Now, about my "material handler" comment.
If that comment sounded in any way derogatory, again, that wasn't my intention at all. I used to be a material handler at a factory. A material handler is the person who feeds the "recipe" (the materials) to a machine, so it can do its job. He does have control over the recipe (even if he doesn't formulate it), but not over the process. That's why I made that comment.
It's true that micro brewery systems (and some systems here) are fully automated, yet their operator is called a "master brewer" instead of a "material handler". But, in those systems, usually the master brewer has complete control over the whole process, which he can fully customize to his needs. I haven't really looked that deeply into the braumeister's features, but I don't think it gives the user that kind of control.

So, those are the reasons I said what I said. Again, I apologize if anyone felt offended by any of my comments, but, right or not, that's my opinion of it.

Just a question if you dont bree or even drink beer why would you make a system like that? do you sell them?
 
Sounds good man i take no offense what so ever. You know how to work copper? thats pretty cool. I didnt want to spend the 300 dollars they were asking for the cool copper lid for the braumaister so im going to take a shot at making it my self. im not sure how to make that but ill figure it out. if you have any pointers let me know as i could use them .

Thank you. English is not my native language, and, despite my best efforts, I'm still painfully limited at it, so I'm permanently worried that my words may be misinterpreted. Last thing I want is to create bad blood. I come here to learn, and to eventually give a hand, if I can.
Copper is by far he easiest metal to work with. All you need is a few hammers, some wood to make a form onto which to mold your piece, and a good arm. Anyways, for what I see, you live not so far away from me, so, if you decide to go for it, shoot me a PM, and I'll help you.

Just a question if you dont bree or even drink beer why would you make a system like that? do you sell them?

I never said I don't brew...;) I said I haven't brewed BEER yet.
Right now, I've been unemployed for almost 1 1/2 year, fixing computers from home to survive, so the prospect of buying grain and the other stuff to make beer is definitely out of the question. So I've been brewing very small batches (less than 2 liters each) of "something", using chick peas as the grain, and baker's yeast. That way I can learn the process, without wrecking my very flimsy economy at the time. I have even "malted" a couple batches of grain, so, right now, I have 3 batches (1 bottle conditioning, and 2 in the fermentors for the last 3 weeks) waiting to be tasted, and an infected batch, that I tasted and dumped down the drain (it was beyond horrible) yesterday.
Meanwhile, the reason why I don't like beer is because "beer" ( as I "knew" it up to a short time ago) is bitter, and I have a really sweet tooth. But lately I've been reading everything I could get my hands on about beer styles, and I think I found a style I might like (hefeweizen) to a point that I may want to brew it regularly, especially with added fruit (I'm thinking about a mango hefeweizen in the (hopefully) near future...).

And, who knows? Maybe I could sell it in the future, if people are interested...:)
 
Thank you. English is not my native language, and, despite my best efforts, I'm still painfully limited at it, so I'm permanently worried that my words may be misinterpreted. Last thing I want is to create bad blood. I come here to learn, and to eventually give a hand, if I can.
Copper is by far he easiest metal to work with. All you need is a few hammers, some wood to make a form onto which to mold your piece, and a good arm. Anyways, for what I see, you live not so far away from me, so, if you decide to go for it, shoot me a PM, and I'll help you.



I never said I don't brew...;) I said I haven't brewed BEER yet.
Right now, I've been unemployed for almost 1 1/2 year, fixing computers from home to survive, so the prospect of buying grain and the other stuff to make beer is definitely out of the question. So I've been brewing very small batches (less than 2 liters each) of "something", using chick peas as the grain, and baker's yeast. That way I can learn the process, without wrecking my very flimsy economy at the time. I have even "malted" a couple batches of grain, so, right now, I have 3 batches (1 bottle conditioning, and 2 in the fermentors for the last 3 weeks) waiting to be tasted, and an infected batch, that I tasted and dumped down the drain (it was beyond horrible) yesterday.
Meanwhile, the reason why I don't like beer is because "beer" ( as I "knew" it up to a short time ago) is bitter, and I have a really sweet tooth. But lately I've been reading everything I could get my hands on about beer styles, and I think I found a style I might like (hefeweizen) to a point that I may want to brew it regularly, especially with added fruit (I'm thinking about a mango hefeweizen in the (hopefully) near future...).

And, who knows? Maybe I could sell it in the future, if people are interested...:)

You should try Hoegaarden. i love this beer in the summer. Hefeweizen is one of my favorite styles. I tried a beer called purple haze the other day which is infused with rasberry and it was pretty good if you like the fruit infused beers.

sounds cool. about the copper work. maybe ill just pay you for the hood build, drop off the copper and you call me when its done. :mug:
 
You should try Hoegaarden. i love this beer in the summer. Hefeweizen is one of my favorite styles. I tried a beer called purple haze the other day which is infused with rasberry and it was pretty good if you like the fruit infused beers.

sounds cool. about the copper work. maybe ill just pay you for the hood build, drop off the copper and you call me when its done. :mug:

Hoegaarden... For what I just read, that's witbier, right? Is all witbier sweet, like hefeweizen? I will definitely try it in the future, thanks for the tip. :)

Not a problem. Whenever you're ready, PM me, and we'll take it from there. Just be aware that I don't have the equipment to braze it yet, so the hood will have to be one solid piece.
 
well from what i understand the braumeister should be on its way any day now. communication with thorsten has been good he responds to my emails quickly.
 
Just got my 5 gallon system.. its big! looks great I will post more pics when its up and running. thanks! Thorsten your the man!

IMG-20110325-00151.jpg
 
Very nice! What place in FL did you buy that from? 2hr north of you means around 45min south of me here :) Just curious

As far as Speidel goes; they are an extremly well organized and good company. They have made brewery and winery equipment long before many of us even know how beer was in spelled. :)
 
morebeer4u.com

the guys name is thorsten.

he is in cape coral.. i think you can go see it in person at his location but he has no stock available. anything you buy he will have to order from speidel and it ships direct to you.
 
well i am thinking of purchasing a voltage converter for the braumeister.

I have 230v in the garage but a voltage converter only costs like 100 bucks and will let me plug this thing in any where and brew.

the braumeister needs 2100 watts to operate. should i buy a 3000 watt or 4000 watt transformer. the price difference is like 15 dollars and i thing that the more power the less work the transformer has to do.

check these out and tell me what you think.

http://cgi.ebay.com/4000-w-Watt-Vol...691?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563b2b3483

http://cgi.ebay.com/4000-w-Watt-Vol...659?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a602f4c6b
 

Please keep posting on your Braumeister experiences. I think you may be he first person on the forums who's actually gotten one and is getting ready to brew. I, for one, will not criticize nor denigrate a system with which I have no experience. I am VERY interested in the Speidels products, so please tell us all you can. I have downloaded the English manual, but there's nothing like hands-on experience.
 
so just an update if you do not want to purchase a voltage converter. you have to cut the european plug style off of the powercable that comes with the braumeister and wire it to a laudry dryer style plug and plug it in there ot you can buy a plug adapter and use that on any 220v plug.

just an update
 
so just an update if you do not want to purchase a voltage converter. you have to cut the european plug style off of the powercable that comes with the braumeister and wire it to a laudry dryer style plug and plug it in there ot you can buy a plug adapter and use that on any 220v plug.

just an update


Good to know! Any idea when you are taking it on its maiden voyage? :mug:

Spoke with Thorsten Monday night and he told me mine may be delayed by one week which will put my delivery date somewhere around the 18th of this month.
 
You know, now that I think of it, if they are selling these as USA versions from the USA, shouldn't they be plug and play for us here? I'll shoot Thorsten an email.
 
Good morning. I just took delivery of the 20l Speidel Braumeister and was getting ready to "cut the cord" when I found this thread. I noticed some have decided to use a voltage transformer/converter instead of replacing the plug on the cord. Has anyone actually used the converter? My concern would be that the amperage draw through the 120V wiring would set off the typical 15 amp circuits in a normal house wiring. I'm guessing that you are choosing the converter so that you can use the boiler on any household outlet, such as in a kitchen. Has anyone replaced the plug with a 240V 30 amp dryer plug. Our dryer plugs are substantially bigger than the plug and cord that comes with the Braumeister. Can anyone offer their experience. Thank you
 
hfk2 said:
Good morning. I just took delivery of the 20l Speidel Braumeister and was getting ready to "cut the cord" when I found this thread. I noticed some have decided to use a voltage transformer/converter instead of replacing the plug on the cord. Has anyone actually used the converter? My concern would be that the amperage draw through the 120V wiring would set off the typical 15 amp circuits in a normal house wiring. I'm guessing that you are choosing the converter so that you can use the boiler on any household outlet, such as in a kitchen. Has anyone replaced the plug with a 240V 30 amp dryer plug. Our dryer plugs are substantially bigger than the plug and cord that comes with the Braumeister. Can anyone offer their experience. Thank you

I have the 50l version coming. Will the product Chris posted a link too work for you? It is in the post just above yours.
 
I'm assuming the braumeister is 220V. What's its current consumption?
Remember, if you use a 120V/220V converter, its current draw will be about double that of its 220V load (actually a little more, due to internal losses). So, if the braumeister needs 15A @ 220V, it will consume little more than 30A through the converter.

Also, before cutting down the cord and powering it up on 240V, I suggest you read the manual, and eventually contact the manufacturer. Germans are known for building their equipment to very exact specifications, so there's a chance the 220V BM may not withstand an almost 10% higher voltage.
 
Here are the instructions from Morebeer4u's website:

_wsb_83x72_Danger+Sign.jpg
This 5 Gallon Brewmaster needs to get the electrical plug changed to a Standard US 240V. (Contact your Electrician!)

Here are the 20l's specs:
Brewmaster 5 Gallon

Brew your own beer in a natural way. Take care of variety instead of simplicity. Drink against the stream. Serve your friends and mates your own beer. Create a new sort of beer which you alone can offer your guests. This will make a great surprise at any celebration or party.

The Brewmaster is designed for a brewing process of approx. 20 liter of beer.

Technical Data

Designation: Brewmaster 5 Gallon (20 liter)
Item No.: 47070
Material: Stainless steel
Weight: Approx. 15 kg
Heating spiral: 2000 Watt heating capacity
Pump: 23 Watt
Power connection: 230V
Contents: Brewing quantity 20 l Finished beer (standard beer) =approx. 25 l beer wort
Height: 600 mm
Diameter: 400 mm
Cardboard box: 740 x 600 x 610 mm
NEW - Control System: Fully automatic brewing control (temperature, time, pump)

And the 50l's specs:
Brewmaster 13 Gallon

Brew your own beer in a natural way. Take care of variety instead of simplicity. Drink against the stream. Serve your friends and mates your own beer. Create a new sort of beer which you alone can offer your guests. This will make a great surprise at any celebration or party.

The Brewmaster is designed for a brewing process of approx.
50 liter of beer.

Technical Data

Designation: Brewmaster 13 Gallon (50 liter)
Item No.: 45050
Material: Stainless steel
Weight: Approx. 24 kg with elements built in and lifting bows
Heating spiral: 3200 Watt heating capacity
Pump: 2x 23 Watt
Power connection: 230V
Contents: Brewing quantity 50 l Finished beer (standard beer) =approx. 55 l beer wort
Height: 700 mm
Diameter: 500 mm
Cardboard box: 950 x 760 x 700 mm
NEW - Control System: Fully automatic brewing control (temperature, time, pump)
 
Thanks for the replies. The receptacles Chris posted would most probably work. You would have to be sure to wire the ground appropriately. Our 240V outlets use 2 120V lines with one ground. I believe the Germans have one 230V line, a neutral and a ground similiar to our 120V system. Inodoro, according to Speidel the unit can be used with our 240V and our 60hz. Apparently there is enough variance in the voltage requirements to cover this range. I would think there would be no difference to the heating element, however the pump may run faster with the 60hz. Not sure about the control head.
 
Thanks Yambor44.

Hmm...For 2000W+, you'd be consuming little more than 17A at 120V. I wouldn't use a converter smaller than a 15A capacity, so you'd need a 25A/30A circuit.
For the 50L unit (3200W+) you'd have a 27A+ draw @ 120V, so I would go for a 40A converter, and a 60A circuit.
 
Inodoro, according to Speidel the unit can be used with our 240V and our 60hz. Apparently there is enough variance in the voltage requirements to cover this range. I would think there would be no difference to the heating element, however the pump may run faster with the 60hz. Not sure about the control head.

Perfect. Then that'd be the best way. Not only you'd save the money for the converter, but all the other materials (except maybe the plug) will be cheaper as well.
 
Thanks for the replies. The receptacles Chris posted would most probably work. You would have to be sure to wire the ground appropriately. Our 240V outlets use 2 120V lines with one ground. I believe the Germans have one 230V line, a neutral and a ground similiar to our 120V system. Inodoro, according to Speidel the unit can be used with our 240V and our 60hz. Apparently there is enough variance in the voltage requirements to cover this range. I would think there would be no difference to the heating element, however the pump may run faster with the 60hz. Not sure about the control head.

I have the 50l (or have it ordered) and already have a 4 prong stove type outlet installed in my garage. It is on a 50amp GFCI breaker. I would imagine this would be sufficient?
 
Glad I could help. :)

For the future, to do your own calculations, you just have to divide the power (W) consumption by the voltage, and you'll get the current draw (A).
For example, in your case, a 3300W load (I did 3300 because of the pumps and control panel) would draw 3300W/240V=13.75A. Your 50A circuit won't even break a sweat.
 
i just bought a voltage converter. i think like 150.00 dollars 5000 watts 5year warranty. i just wanted to have the ability to plug it in anywhere. i have 220 in the garage but i like brewing under the tiki hut in the back yard.
 
Glad I could help. :)

For the future, to do your own calculations, you just have to divide the power (W) consumption by the voltage, and you'll get the current draw (A).
For example, in your case, a 3300W load (I did 3300 because of the pumps and control panel) would draw 3300W/240V=13.75A. Your 50A circuit won't even break a sweat.

Thanks IP. :mug:
 

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