A lot of people do no-sparge BIAB. If you can get enough wort to drain from your bag, and you hit both your SG number as well as have the volume you want, there's little to be gained from sparging.
You do leave some sugars behind in the bag, clinging to the grain. It's what sparging is supposed to relieve, i.e., rinse that sugar from the mash so you don't leave it behind. You can make up for that either by increasing the amount of grain so what's left behind doesn't matter (you've hit your volume and SG numbers) or you can rinse (sparge) to get what's left.
Theoretically (and usually, practically), sparging allows you to use less grain, which results in lower cost. But you probably would save only a few pounds, which isn't a huge savings.
I do the traditional mash tun. I'll start w/ about 10-12 pounds of crushed grain, add 4 gallons of strike water, and let it mash for an hour. I might draw off 2.75 gallons of first runnings at a SG of 1.09.
I'll then add my sparge water (another 4 gallons) and draw that off after mixing. I'll get almost all of that water back out--for a total of 6.5 to 6.75 gallons--but that sparge will have a SG of maybe 1.030, more or less.
The resulting SG of all 6.75 gallons is then about 1.054--and I've hit my gallons target. After the boil, it's up in the 1.06x range and I'll have 5.5 to 5.75 gallons left to drain into the fermenter.
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I'm not suggesting you do it my way--if I hadn't lucked into a mash tun VERY cheaply I would have done BIAB--just that it illustrates what sparging does. You'll never (by your example) get a sparged SG of 1.010 if you mix. But, if your strike water was only 6 gallons, the BIAB grain absorbed 1.5 gallons, you'd be short in the boil kettle by a couple gallons. You could make that up by just adding more water, but if you could get more sugars off the spent grain in the bag, why wouldn't you do that?