Soldering Stainless steel

[alien]

Thanks. I suspected as much but I was watching with the sound off.

 

[Islandboy85]

I'm only about a quarter if he way through the thread, so ill just ask my question before doing all my research I have a propane torch, but could a 1200 watt heat gun do the trick? I've seen mention of soldering irons, just wasn't sure if anyone had tried a heat gun out? I always cook my copper fittings. I'm getting better though.

 

[wyzazz]

Some have mentioned that a large Soldering Iron works (150watts) but I'm not sure a heat gun (I assume you mean something like a blow dryer on steroids.) would work. Well, I guess it might eventually work but I think you may get tired of holding it.

 

[Huaco]

Heat gun? No. Soldering Iron? MAYBE...

Just use the propane torch. Make sure you heat up the area around the fitting for about a 12" diameter PRIOR to actually heating the fitting. A torch is the only way to go.

 

[Islandboy85]

Good enough. I was just curious if it would even be worth it.

 

[Abhitchc]

I am having one heck of a time getting my solder to stay in place. My ssurfaces are clean, and I am applying minimal flux, but it still runs and I lose all of my solder. I am using a water-based paste flux. Is that my problem? Will switching to stay-brite liquid flux fix the issue?

 

[P-J]

I am having one heck of a time getting my solder to stay in place. My ssurfaces are clean, and I am applying minimal flux, but it still runs and I lose all of my solder. I am using a water-based paste flux. Is that my problem? Will switching to stay-brite liquid flux fix the issue?

Stay-Clean Liquid Flux is critical when soldering stainless steel.

 

[Abhitchc]

Stay-Clean Liquid Flux is critical when soldering stainless steel.

Thanks. That is what I expected. I am going to try and find a supplier here in Jackson, MS.

ETA: Yup, you were right. The liquid flux did the trick!

 

[PLC-Guy]

If You Have a Friend That Has a T.I.G. Welder and The Peices Are Not The Same Material, Use Silver Solder, No Flux, Use T.I.G. For Heat Source.
Used This Before For Stainless Steel w/Copper & Bronse.

 

[scrappy1979]

Has anyone used oatley safe flo silver solder instead of the harris? HD has that in my area in stock and it is cheaper than ordering the harris safe brite.

 

[BSD_Glass]

Has anyone used oatley safe flo silver solder instead of the harris? HD has that in my area in stock and it is cheaper than ordering the harris safe brite.

I have. It works just fine.

BSD

 

[scrappy1979]

Cool thanks. Trying my hand at converting a keg this weekend

 

[wilserbrewer]

The right flux is the key... Just sayin.

 

[scrappy1979]

I'm going to get the liquid harris flux, my local welding shop has that but their harris silver solder was $90 for the roll thought that was a little much..

 

[LiquidFlame]

Just did a boil test with 13gal, and the welding spud for my temp probe that I silver solder has a major leak. I had leak tested it before with the same amount of water (just standing still room temp) and had no leaks. Why would it start leaking now when boiling? In case you ask, yes I did use all the correct materials. Thinking about calling up the machine shop tomorrow and seeing how much it would cost to get it welded.

 

[Bobby_M]

I would just resolder it. It's not like this method is sketchy. Even experienced plumbers get a pipe to piss once in a while.

 

[koomber]

Tried my hand at soldering stainless to copper the yesterday. Complete failure to start with. Just using generic silver solder and flux from the local hardware shop.
Had a read on the forum and saw a recommendation for using hydrochloric acid based flux instead. Didn't have any so dipped the end of the stainless pipe into some hydrochloric acid (used for brewing) and let it soak for while. Soldering worked perfectly after, still using normal silver solder.

The right flux is the key, but hydrochloric acid is a good substitute.

 

[Yellowirenut]

Project completed...
No more leaks from weld-less fittings.

 

[ryanhope]

Sorry if this has already been asked, don't really want to read though 125 pages of posts. If silver solder can be melted with a propane torch wont the solder melt when its sitting on my burner doing a boil or would that only be an issue if the kettle is empty with no liquid thermal mass keeping the temp down.

 

[pickles]

Sorry if this has already been asked, don't really want to read though 125 pages of posts. If silver solder can be melted with a propane torch wont the solder melt when its sitting on my burner doing a boil or would that only be an issue if the kettle is empty with no liquid thermal mass keeping the temp down.

The water in it keeps it from melting, like you said.

 

[nate456789]

Sorry if this has already been asked, don't really want to read though 125 pages of posts. If silver solder can be melted with a propane torch wont the solder melt when its sitting on my burner doing a boil or would that only be an issue if the kettle is empty with no liquid thermal mass keeping the temp down.

It is also wise to have a good tight connection between the two pieces before soldering for a few reasons. Easier solder, and if you happen to make a mistake and dry fire the fitting wont move or fall out.

 

[ryanhope]

It is also wise to have a good tight connection between the two pieces before soldering for a few reasons. Easier solder, and if you happen to make a mistake and dry fire the fitting wont move or fall out.

Yeah I have watched a few videos on how to dimple...

 

[twst1up]

Everbody has a different take on this, so I thought I throw out mine.

I'm way to cheap to buy anything, so I built a dimple maker out of 2 sockets and bolt.

Drilled a 1/2" hole with a step bit, pulled the dimple, and ran 3/4 ridged copper pipe through and soldered.

Attach fitting of your choice to pipe.

13mm kobalt 1/2 drive socket makes the dimple

24mm socket, bolt, washers, nut yada yada yada

don't pull it all the way through it will be too loose

Now we're talkin':rockin:

 

[06vmi06]

Ok I don't remember if it was mentioned after reading this massive thread. Where can I buy the butt weld part local. I went to lowes and Home Depot and have only found the threaded fitting and none are reducers like we need

Please if you know let me know I really wana get some dimples pulled tonight.

 

[Bobby_M]

Butt weld fittings are industrial supplies. No way in hell any hardware store or home center is going to have them.

 

[Ki-ri-n]

I'm just going to start building mine

I planning on using a 2" TC ferrule for a coupling a heating element. But according to BH, it "...Does NOT fit a RIPP or 'wavy' element" ?? I thought that was the reason for going to a 2" vs a 1"?

Here's the 2" Tri Clover Compatible X 1" NPS Element Adapter:
https://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-X-1-NPS-Element-Adapter.html

Here's my element:

If the above does work, can you get away with a short ferrule or do you need a medium one?

********EDIT*********
After thinking about it more, it may be possible that there isn't enough length from the end of the element (that folds back) to the kettle once you stack you the lengths of the ferrule & element adapter-True?
If I need something shorter, would a short 2" (or 1.5") ferrule with a TC/NPS fitting work? Guess I could always solder the TC/NPS fitting to an electrical gang box cover and box like Kal to shorten it up as much as possible-Thoughts?

Anyone buy reducers for dimpling a 2" vs making your own? Looking to see what my options are....

 

[BSD_Glass]

The still dragon element adapter will take a ripple element. I use a 2" ferrule.

BSD

 

[Bobby_M]

I have that element in front of me and it fits into a 1.5" TC adapter and LONG ferrule no problem. I'm not sure what the perceived problem is. It works with a regular 1.5" TC to 1" NPSL adapter or with the enclosed version we sell like this one:

 

[Ki-ri-n]

Ha! Got you mixed up with a different site Bobby. Crisis averted

Do the part #'s below look OK for a 1.5" Ferrule?
Butt weld pipe fitting: http://www.mcmaster.com/#45605k725/=ogaodx
Socket Weld fitting: http://www.mcmaster.com/#4335t65/=ogap5n

 

[Ki-ri-n]

What has been the best/cheapest method for making holes for 1/2 NPT couplers and 1.5" TC?
I plan to use a 7/8 hole saw for the coupler but can't find a good size for the TC.

Parts for the keg tools:
1/2" coupler> McMaster 45605K725 & 4335T65
1.5 TC> McMaster 45605K711 & 4335T64