Soldering Stainless steel

[Bobby_M]

Are you using Stay Brite #8? The more silver content, the bigger gaps it will bridge. If you still have trouble, You can fill in some of that space by wrapping some stainless wire so it lays in the threads on the nipple.

 

[wardenwheat]

Anyone have their coupling fail with direct heat???? Thinking of having my bottom couplers tig welded in my kegs and soldering the rest. Comments??

Awesome thread!!

 

[P-J]

Anyone have their coupling fail with direct heat???? Thinking of having my bottom couplers tig welded in my kegs and soldering the rest. Comments??

Awesome thread!!

That cannot happen (solder failure) as long as there is fluid (water) above the level of the soldered connection.

 

[wyzazz]

^^What he said^^ Have you ever tried to solder a waterline with just a few drops of water left in it? I suppose if you were too worried you could snag some of Bobby M's Heat Shields when he gets them finished up, that would certainly reduce the amount of heat on the couplings.

 

[the_bird]

I wonder about that, though. Is the heat transfer from the outside of the keg (where the fire is) to the inside (where the water is) fast and efficient enough to prevent this from ever being an issue? I'm just thinking of when I cool off my wort; sometimes I'll run the waste water from the chiller over the bottom part of the keggle, and that mo'fo will steam and sizzle like nobody's business - a lot more than I would expect if the outside of the keg was only 212°. It'll keep steaming for ten or fifteen seconds; if the keg's exterior was only a little over 212°, you wouldn't expect it to steam up so aggressively and for so long.

If the temperature of the keg's exterior was being fully kept in check by the liquid inside, I wouldn't expect that huge "WHOOSH" of steam when I run the waste water over it.

With that said, I've never heard of a soldered joint FAILING. I'm just not convinced that the heat transfer within the keggle is efficient enough to keep the whole keg at essentially the wort's boiling point.

 

[wyzazz]

Stay-Brite solder has a melting point of 430F (MSDS) so you can extrapolate from there. Does the outside of your kettle get to 400 degrees under normal operation? I suppose anything is possible but I seriously doubt it gets that hot unless you have concentrated flame directly on the fitting.

I'd imagine that my polycarbonate sight glass would melt before a soldered fitting would become liquid again, the polycarbonate I use has an operating temp max of 250F.

 

[Bobby_M]

I think the very bottom roll of a converted keg boil kettle will get to around 400-500F because it takes some time for the heat to travel up the 4" or so to get to the liquid inside. The bulkheads are a lot closer to the liquid and might see 240-250F. No way you're desoldering those things without a ton of misuse like a full flame run-dry.

 

[the_bird]

I think you're probably right, but it'd be really interesting (and easy) for someone with an infrared thermometer to test out.

 

[Ricand]

Anyone have their coupling fail with direct heat???? Thinking of having my bottom couplers tig welded in my kegs and soldering the rest. Comments??

Awesome thread!!

I've had my silver solder joints fail from mechanical torsion more than heat. The BK with it's valve and T sticking out failed first since it was getting torqued while cleaning as well as the MT valve for the same reason. MY HLT seemed to survive the best. I was tired of cleaning and reflowing the cracked silver solder joints and finally just cleaned them all up and had them TIGd. Just my experience YMMV.

 

[bajabrewer7]

Why do we have to make the dimple? Couldn't I just solder a coupling on a tight hole?

 

[pickles]

Why do we have to make the dimple? Couldn't I just solder a coupling on a tight hole?

Yes you can, but it's nowhere near as strong. The dimple increases the contact area of the solder on the fitting.

 

[lschiavo]

Yes you can, but it's nowhere near as strong. The dimple increases the contact area of the solder on the fitting.

The pull through method also gives it a little mechanical strength. I do mine bassackwards and make a well on the outside of the keg. The coupling sits on the outside but the well allows for a nice fillet of solder without it running all over. I have done about two dozen like this without a failure yet.

 

[Dohboy]

I plain on soldering my HLT and BK, i have 8 joins to do will this kit last me?

HARRIS STAY-BRITE SILVER BEARING SOLDER KIT ~ SBSKPOP | eBay

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

You will need two kits. Those kits last for about 4 fittings each in my experience. You do not need to be shy with the flux though. Go crazy with that stuff before, during, after and cleanup. Then go over everything with bar keepers friends and a paper towel to remove flux and shine it all up.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Because pictures are never a bad thing...

 

[nate456789]

The pull through method also gives it a little mechanical strength. I do mine bassackwards and make a well on the outside of the keg. The coupling sits on the outside but the well allows for a nice fillet of solder without it running all over. I have done about two dozen like this without a failure yet.

View attachment 40119

Very nice. I am getting ready to build another E Keggle. I want to use this Pull thru method. Pulling into the keg. I Haven't decided if I will TIG or do the solder. My current one is Tigged but the inner seam is not very nice or clean. The weld on the outside looks great tho.
That is why I was thinking about using this pull method to give a nice clean seam on the inside.
Do you have any pictures of the inside of the keg? What method or tool size did you use to make your dimple?
Thanks.

 

[Dohboy]

I found these.
Kester Silver Solder 4% Silver 96% Tin 1oz 83-0000-6664 | eBay

Would 2 of these work?

 

[Flomaster]

I used the little Harris bottle and soldier kit. I've done 7 new joints and had to fix two joints I busted loose messing with the valves. I have at least one more joint left out of my kit.

Get the kit, or lifetime supply of liquid flux and silver soldier.

-=Jason=-
Sent from my HTC using Home Brew Talk

 

[iijakii]

Wondering if you guys can give me some advice on the best way to do this.

So I was quite dumb when ordering my false bottom from Jaybird and totally forgot about the lip at the top of my kettle, so I didn't get a hinge put in it. As you can see the FB just barely can't fit in.

So I was thinking I'd cut a slit in the lip so I can slide it through. But if you look on my pot, cutting that slit would leave me with an exterior hole as well. Would I be able to solder that shut? I don't really have much experience with soldering, so I'm not sure how I'd get the solder to stay in slit and make a seal. Is there something I could put on the backside the solder wouldn't adhere to, then remove it once it's solidified? I have a friend whom has a MIG welder, but buying one of these kits would be cheaper than purchasing some stainless core wire and I think his welds are probably a bit ugly, too

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo24/35/da/d738b764ae8a__1323130830000.jpg
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo17/d5/66/58dd07ee6f53__1323130744000.jpg
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo09/e1/14/5f25469cdd34__1322271488000.jpg

 

[BargainFittings]

Hammer the ridge flat in two spots opposite each other so the false bottom will slide past?

Edit: Put a backer behind the metal so you don't deform the hell out of your kettle.

Maybe need to use a flat bar or something to extend out to allow you to hammer it flat.

 

[iijakii]

Yeah, that's a good idea. I'll have to think about how to hammer it out without mucking up my kettle.

Thanks for the idea.

 

[lschiavo]

Very nice. I am getting ready to build another E Keggle. I want to use this Pull thru method. Pulling into the keg. I Haven't decided if I will TIG or do the solder. My current one is Tigged but the inner seam is not very nice or clean. The weld on the outside looks great tho.
That is why I was thinking about using this pull method to give a nice clean seam on the inside.
Do you have any pictures of the inside of the keg? What method or tool size did you use to make your dimple?
Thanks.

I use a greenlee hydraulic punch to make the dimple...not something everyone has lying around I'm sure. I think I have seen an alternate tool that does the same job earlier.

Took a few tries but I finally got a decent shot of the inside:

 

[nate456789]

I use a greenlee hydraulic punch to make the dimple...not something everyone has lying around I'm sure. I think I have seen an alternate tool that does the same job earlier.

Took a few tries but I finally got a decent shot of the inside:

<img src="https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40664"/>

Looks great. I hope I can get mine to look like that.
Thanks for the picture.

 

[lschiavo]

Looks great. I hope I can get mine to look like that.
Thanks for the picture.

No problem. I'm sure you can do it. The right solder and flux and a little patience and practice and you will be surprised how easy and quick it is.

 

[iijakii]

Hammer the ridge flat in two spots opposite each other so the false bottom will slide past?

Edit: Put a backer behind the metal so you don't deform the hell out of your kettle.

Maybe need to use a flat bar or something to extend out to allow you to hammer it flat.

More I think about it - I don't think I could hammer it out cleanly.

 

[nate456789]

No problem. I'm sure you can do it. The right solder and flux and a little patience and practice and you will be surprised how easy and quick it is.

Did you use a Greenlee punch kit like this?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QIJP9C/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Or is it a different tool? Guess I don't see how this tool would dimple the side of the keg.

Thanks

 

[lschiavo]

Did you use a Greenlee punch kit like this?
Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-735BB-Knockout-2-Inch-Conduit/dp/B001QIJP9C
Or is it a different tool? Guess I don't see how this tool would dimple the side of the keg.

Thanks

That is the tool except my kit is to 3" and has a hydraulic driver.

I drilled a hole and used the 1in punch(male cutting part) and die(female part) to make the hole in the keg. Then I flipped the 1in die over and pulled that into a 1-1/2in die to create the dimple. Hope that makes sense.

 

[nate456789]

That is the tool except my kit is to 3" and has a hydraulic driver.

I drilled a hole and used the 1in punch(male cutting part) and die(female part) to make the hole in the keg. Then I flipped the 1in die over and pulled that into a 1-1/2in die to create the dimple. Hope that makes sense.

That makes sense. What sizes did you use for your 1/2 coupling for your ball valve?
How many holes are these good for since you are using them on stainless instead of regular metal?

I may have to invest in a set of these.
Thanks for the info

 

[lschiavo]

That makes sense. What sizes did you use for your 1/2 coupling for your ball valve?
How many holes are these good for since you are using them on stainless instead of regular metal?

I may have to invest in a set of these.
Thanks for the info

For the 1/2in fittings, I probably used a 3/4 and 1-1/4 inch combination. It seems if you seperate by two sizes it creates a nice dimple without the risk of actually punching through (happened once).

I think my kit is older than me and it has punched plenty of stainless electrical enclosures much thicker than kegs or kettles. All my Greenlee tools seem to last forever.

There are some cheaper options:
Knockout Punch Kit - Knockout Punches at Harbor Freight Tools
Hydraulic Punch Driver w/ 5 Hydraulic Punches & Dies

You get what you pay for but these may be ok for limited use?

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Wondering if you guys can give me some advice on the best way to do this.

So I was quite dumb when ordering my false bottom from Jaybird and totally forgot about the lip at the top of my kettle, so I didn't get a hinge put in it. As you can see the FB just barely can't fit in.

So I was thinking I'd cut a slit in the lip so I can slide it through. But if you look on my pot, cutting that slit would leave me with an exterior hole as well. Would I be able to solder that shut? I don't really have much experience with soldering, so I'm not sure how I'd get the solder to stay in slit and make a seal. Is there something I could put on the backside the solder wouldn't adhere to, then remove it once it's solidified? I have a friend whom has a MIG welder, but buying one of these kits would be cheaper than purchasing some stainless core wire and I think his welds are probably a bit ugly, too

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo24/35/da/d738b764ae8a__1323130830000.jpg
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo17/d5/66/58dd07ee6f53__1323130744000.jpg
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo09/e1/14/5f25469cdd34__1322271488000.jpg

Talk nice to Jaybird and see if he would be willing to take the FB back and hinge it for you for a reasonable cost. You will eventually want take it back out, if you manage to get it in there and solder or weld it, you will be stuck.