Soldering Stainless steel

[bruin_ale]

I hear ya, after reading the thread I realized the secret to this whole thing is the liquid flux. I've got a welding supply store near my place, going to drop in and see if they have it.

 

[klyph]

The Radnor is made by Harris or vise-versa, same stuff different label.

 

[Flomaster]

The Radnor is made by Harris or vise-versa, same stuff different label.

yeah that's I found out. I think radnor is a sub division of harris and only sold by airgas

-= Jason =-

 

[crt052681]

For what its worth, I used the Stay-Clean paste flux and it worked very well. Couldn't find liquid flux locally.

http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/Alloys/Soldering/Fluxes/Stay-Clean-Paste-Flux.aspx

 

[brewmonk]

Hey, guys. I tried this yesterday, ss 316 fitting ( close nipple - hex, and a nut on the inside to lock it).

I had a great, tight fit. Everything was sanded, first with ~120 grit, then with 1500. I cleaned all surfaces with muriatic acid (carefully) with a q-tip. And then I applied paste flux. a part didn't seem to stick to the nipple, only the keg wall. (I even tried to heat the flux to spread it more evenly).

Although, a lot of solder seemed to migrate inside the joint and threads (pre-fluxed).

Did that spot that didn't stick fail because of the flux?

 

[P-J]

Paste Flux?
Not for SS soldering. Please tell us what flux and solder you used.

Please - Maybe I can learn something at my "going under age".

 

[klyph]

Do yourself a HUGE favor and get liquid flux formulated for ferrous metals.

 

[brewmonk]

yeah, I guess I'll redo it, i just thought the muriatic would strip the bones off a skeleton!
it was the sta brite solder, 'course I also burned the solder, too (yeah, that's just great!).

 

[bbognerks]

So, I just got my keg tool parts in today. Is anyone else having an issue of it making the dimple too big? I'm using bargain fittings couplers and they fit loosly in the dimple. When I say loosly, I mean they don't stay in at all.

At first I thought I was screwed. But, I just took a hammer and lightly tapped around the protrusion side of the dimple to reduce it a little. Then I pressed the coupler through to a nice tight fit. I just wanted to see if anyone else was having this problem. I don't know if I should take the reducing coupler and grind it down a bit or what.

 

[Flomaster]

So, I just got my keg tool parts in today. Is anyone else having an issue of it making the dimple too big? I'm using bargain fittings couplers and they fit loosly in the dimple. When I say loosly, I mean they don't stay in at all.

At first I thought I was screwed. But, I just took a hammer and lightly tapped around the protrusion side of the dimple to reduce it a little. Then I pressed the coupler through to a nice tight fit. I just wanted to see if anyone else was having this problem. I don't know if I should take the reducing coupler and grind it down a bit or what.

just don't pull the tool so far through the keggle. I used come calipers and found out that the OD of the widest part of my tool was larger than my couplings OD. so I just pull through enough to get my coupling started. with lube, wd40, or 3 in 1 oil, I use the tool and pull my coupling to the exact spot I want it.

-=jason=-

 

[wyzazz]

So, I just got my keg tool parts in today. Is anyone else having an issue of it making the dimple too big? I'm using bargain fittings couplers and they fit loosly in the dimple. When I say loosly, I mean they don't stay in at all.

At first I thought I was screwed. But, I just took a hammer and lightly tapped around the protrusion side of the dimple to reduce it a little. Then I pressed the coupler through to a nice tight fit. I just wanted to see if anyone else was having this problem. I don't know if I should take the reducing coupler and grind it down a bit or what.

Watch Joe's (Nostalgia) video, it really helps to explain things a bit.

 

[Flomaster]

well in Joe's video if I remember correctly he pulls the reducer all the way through the vessel. that IMHO is no good for at least half of us doing this and the reducers OD is slightly larger than the coupling OD thus creating a sloppy joint that needs to be hammered back into place.

great video for some one has hasn't done this, but if your coupling is slightly smaller than your reducer you will not get a tight like a virgin on prom night Fit.

just sayin'


-=Jason=-

 

[bbognerks]

Yeah I watched and followed the video to a T and the result was that the coupling is smaller than the reducer.

Thanks Flomaster for the lube idea. I didn't think of lubing the reducer to be able to get it out. I did try stopping it before it was fully through, but I couldn't get it out at that point. I ended up having to pull it all the way again. I'll try the lube next time. Thanks!

 

[Flomaster]

use a piece of wood and a hammer or use a rubber mallet to get the reducer out. I just bang it back into the keggle.

-=Jason=-

 

[bbognerks]

This method sure does make nice joints. For a keggle, you really need 2 people though. I couldn't watch the torch and the solder at the same time. Heh

 

[nostalgia]

Yes, I probably should have mentioned that some other NPT couplers are a bit smaller than the McMaster-Carr ones and you can't pull the reducer through all the way. Apologies for that.

This method sure does make nice joints. For a keggle, you really need 2 people though. I couldn't watch the torch and the solder at the same time. Heh

Or you can try the high-tech webcam approach Your solders look great!

-Joe

 

[bbognerks]

Thx! I thought they turned out well. First 2 dimple solders i have ever done. I think it helps if you get silver soldering down first before trying this though. I soldered 4 locknuts 4 bolts 2 bushings and 6 washers before these.

I'll def consider the webcam approach.

 

[Flomaster]

with the keggle on its side I and hold the torch and look into the keggle and watch for the solder to melt. I first preheat the coupling before I need the solder or flux. then I apply heat to the coupling only because its thicker and takers longer to heat up. one the coupling is up to proper temp the solder will just melt. remove heat and let cool before cleaning

-=jason=-

 

[klyph]

Yeah, I've done it both ways, it's way easier to have your brother hold the torch and yell at him when the solder starts to flow.

 

[Flomaster]

Yeah, I've done it both ways, it's way easier to have your brother hold the torch and yell at him when the solder starts to flow.

yeah for sure having a second person holding the torch or telling you when the solder turns to liquid is the way to go for sure.

-=Jason=-

 

[bbognerks]

Well I did 6 more dimple joints over the weekend. All but one were in kegs. I must say, dimpling a stock pot is much easier than dimpling kegs. The WD-40 on the reducing coupler made it easy to knock out. Also, having another guy helping was definitely much easier.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

How about a combination of welding and soldering? Think it's overkill?
This is in a scrap keg top.

I started by tigging the "Outside":

"Inside" after the weld:

"Inside" after filling the gap with solder:

Ed

 

[Scut_Monkey]

That's pretty hardcore there. I guess if you want more of a sanitary fitting the solder on the internal surface would help with this. Otherwise, for a keggle the solder just helps to make it look more pretty.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Less able to collect crap on the backside of the coupling filling it.
Now if your double jointed you would of Tigged the inside or kept the wife happy.
I'm picking on ya Ed.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Less able to collect crap on the backside of the coupling filling it.
Now if your double jointed you would of Tigged the inside or kept the wife happy.
I'm picking on ya Ed.

I know in keggles this all ends up being boiled so the crevice is probably not a big deal. Several folks commented on the welded fittings that the backside might collect "crap" so I thought I'd see how this went.

On another note, I went down the same wrong path several others have... After the coupling was welded, I tried using past flux that I picked up at Lowes. That didn't work and it was a pain to clean. I picked up the Stay Brite kit from AirGas and gave it another shot using a MAPP torch... another mistake. I heated the coupling, but by the time the solder started to melt the joint continued to heat up and the flux overheated. Cleaned it up yet again and used a propane torch.

So, as so many have recommended... use liquid Stay Brite flux and propane.

By the way... I picked up 2 Stay Brite kits at AirGas yesterday. The price on the sticker said $6.45, the register rang up $24.+. When they checked it out, the price has increased to $11.~ each and they had not updated the price on the shelf. They told me they could not sell it below their cost and I didn't feel like making a big issue so it ended up costing me $7.49 each.

BrewBeemer - Using my touch screen phone and Tig Welding are two things I've learned cannot be done by touch. I'm sure someone can weld the inside and I'm also sure it's not me. To be honest, I'd be disappointed if you DIDN'T give me a hard time.

Ed

 

[P-J]

Ed,

Just a comment for you. Your TIG welding on the fitting is just plain "a work of art".
Awesome!

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Ed,

Just a comment for you. Your TIG welding on the fitting is just plain "a work of art".
Awesome!

Thanks PJ.

To be honest, it's pretty much the "Blind Squirrel" syndrom... I got lucky.
The dimpling tool and fantastic advice from the true weldors on the forum get all the credit.

I guess the other good reason for the solder is a backup to my welding

Ed

 

[bbognerks]

Ed, if you are planning on doing this procedure for others, you should consider buying a pound of solder and 32 oz of flux. Way cheaper than buying those kits at $11 each now that they've upped the price. I went through a kits worth of solder on 8 or 9 fittings using a double ring of solder on each.

 

[budrockdiesel]

I'm sorry guys, I didn't read this whole thread. Has anyone tried to solder copper into stainless?

 

[nostalgia]

I'm sorry guys, I didn't read this whole thread. Has anyone tried to solder copper into stainless?

Yes, and it works just fine. I don't know about the long-term issues with dissimilar metals, but they solder together without any issues.

-Joe