Thank you! They are selling fast
Soapmaking
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I can see why! If you don't mind my asking - what is the price for one of those beauties?
Built a small mold. Measured the inside. Calculated a recipe. Discovered I don't have enough oil to make soap with.
Wife and daughter used most of my remainder making some kind of face scrub!
Wife and daughter used most of my remainder making some kind of face scrub!
LOL! That is so funny!
I remember WAAAAAY back when, before tattoos were on everyone, a gal I knew from working with her pulled up her dress to show me that very tattoo on her upper thigh. Now mind you this was probably late 70s! Makes me wonder what it looks like now! :fro:
I'd think she went from the Rolling Stones to Kiss.
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
It is funny. I was nervous at first because I didn't know if I could do it. It's going home with its new owner tonight
I'm thinking if they actually USE that soap, it may end up looking exactly like my buddy's tattoo probably looks by now - LOL!!
It's a work of art though and should be showcased somewhere and NEVER EVER used.
It's a work of art though and should be showcased somewhere and NEVER EVER used.
rhoadsrage
Well-Known Member
I made this liquid soap that was a pain to get all the lumps out but it makes a really nice hand soap. I made it pretty watery and when it goes through a foaming hand pump it is thick enough to write your name in.
Ingredients:
(30%) 14.1 oz coconut oil
(30%) 14.1 oz soybean oil (liquid, not shortening)
(40%) 18.8 oz olive oil
32.9 oz distilled water
9.39 oz KOH (Potassium Hydroxide)
This is a 70% water as percent of oil weight, and a 5% superfat discount. technically because this contains more olive than other oils you could call this a liquid castile soap, but in my book castile means 100% olive oil, so it’s really up to you!
from this website: https://silverfirsfarm.wordpress.com/2010/01/22/liquid-castile-soap-tutorial/
I like it to test fragrances too. I'm using a Day of the Dead fragrance that is really nice.
I'm trying to find a good recipe for liquid dishwashing soap. I tested the above recipe and it doesn't seem to have a clean feel and the fragrance last on the dishes.
If you have a good recipe or just tips on how to make a good homemade dishsoap, I would love to make one.
Ingredients:
(30%) 14.1 oz coconut oil
(30%) 14.1 oz soybean oil (liquid, not shortening)
(40%) 18.8 oz olive oil
32.9 oz distilled water
9.39 oz KOH (Potassium Hydroxide)
This is a 70% water as percent of oil weight, and a 5% superfat discount. technically because this contains more olive than other oils you could call this a liquid castile soap, but in my book castile means 100% olive oil, so it’s really up to you!
from this website: https://silverfirsfarm.wordpress.com/2010/01/22/liquid-castile-soap-tutorial/
I like it to test fragrances too. I'm using a Day of the Dead fragrance that is really nice.
I'm trying to find a good recipe for liquid dishwashing soap. I tested the above recipe and it doesn't seem to have a clean feel and the fragrance last on the dishes.
If you have a good recipe or just tips on how to make a good homemade dishsoap, I would love to make one.
"Dish soap" is a detergent unfortunately - that's why no soap film.
I might be one of the cool kids now! Looks like ketchup and mustard, but I'm hoping it ends up soap.
- 13 oz Crisco
- 12 oz Olive Oil
- 14 oz Coconut Oil
- 14 oz water
- 6 oz lye
- .3 oz "The Body Shop" Exotic Fragrance Oil (smells fruity, had this in the cabinet)
- red/blue coloring added to 1/3 of batch, added on top, stirred.
OP
OP
It's so much fun! I made a charcoal facial soap (from Melana's research), and it's my first charcoal soap. It's super nice soap, but I would caution anyone to not sneeze when opening the powdered charcoal.
Weeks later, and I'm still finding charcoal remnants in kitchen drawers.
Weeks later, and I'm still finding charcoal remnants in kitchen drawers.
Opened my mold, removed the soap brick, and sliced. I kinda expected it to splode or shatter or some other disaster that usually happens on my inaugural attempt at anything. Oddly, everything seemed OK.
I'm gonna let it dry in one of my cheese driers drawers for about a month. Then I'm gonna do a long day of yardwork. I will be nasty. Then we test the soap.
I'm gonna let it dry in one of my cheese driers drawers for about a month. Then I'm gonna do a long day of yardwork. I will be nasty. Then we test the soap.
rhoadsrage
Well-Known Member
Well you better get started on the second batch. I was shocked how fast my first batch went, and had to wait 2 weeks for the next batch to cure. I found a used crockpot for cheap and made a batch using the hot method to get me through the last time I ran low.
My youngest is leaving for college this weekend. Only about 45 minutes away, but still...
Anyway, she's been bugging me to make more Chapstick for a while, so we finally banged out a few sticks last night so she has a good supply while she's gone. Here's the recipe and process I used:
2 parts Coconut Oil
1 Part Beeswax
Few drops Vitamin E
I got the Coconut Oil warming on the stove. It was solid and I wanted it to be liquid. I put the plastic bottle in a pot of water and turned the heat on medium.
While that was heating, I grated some beeswax sticks. You can use any beeswax. They make it in pellet form, but I happened to buy some sticks of "organic" or whatever. It's very unprocessed and smells strongly of honey.
When the Beeswax was grated and the Coconut Oil was liquified, I put a small glass bowl (like 1 cup size) on my gram scale and poured 10 grams of coconut oil into the dish. Then I added 5 grams of beeswax, and then finally 2 vitamin E capsules pricked and squeezed.
I then placed the glass dish in the pot of water and turned the heat back on. I stirred while the Beeswax melted into the Coconut Oil.
I then took the glass dish out carefully, and holding with a hotpad, I poured the mixture into empty tubes through a small funnel. It filled almost 4 of the 6 tubes I had.
I made a half batch right after that to fill the remaining 2 tubes.
You can also add a few drop of honey directly to the mixture when it's melted, if you want a bit more honey aroma and slight sweetness. I've heard of using Kool-Aid stuff to color and flavor, but when I tried it, I did not get it to stir in well. I used an off brand sports drink, so YMMV. I like the lip balm without the extra flavors, personally.
Anyway, she's been bugging me to make more Chapstick for a while, so we finally banged out a few sticks last night so she has a good supply while she's gone. Here's the recipe and process I used:
2 parts Coconut Oil
1 Part Beeswax
Few drops Vitamin E
I got the Coconut Oil warming on the stove. It was solid and I wanted it to be liquid. I put the plastic bottle in a pot of water and turned the heat on medium.
While that was heating, I grated some beeswax sticks. You can use any beeswax. They make it in pellet form, but I happened to buy some sticks of "organic" or whatever. It's very unprocessed and smells strongly of honey.
When the Beeswax was grated and the Coconut Oil was liquified, I put a small glass bowl (like 1 cup size) on my gram scale and poured 10 grams of coconut oil into the dish. Then I added 5 grams of beeswax, and then finally 2 vitamin E capsules pricked and squeezed.
I then placed the glass dish in the pot of water and turned the heat back on. I stirred while the Beeswax melted into the Coconut Oil.
I then took the glass dish out carefully, and holding with a hotpad, I poured the mixture into empty tubes through a small funnel. It filled almost 4 of the 6 tubes I had.
I made a half batch right after that to fill the remaining 2 tubes.
You can also add a few drop of honey directly to the mixture when it's melted, if you want a bit more honey aroma and slight sweetness. I've heard of using Kool-Aid stuff to color and flavor, but when I tried it, I did not get it to stir in well. I used an off brand sports drink, so YMMV. I like the lip balm without the extra flavors, personally.
I'm still on the first bar of the soap that I pictured above. It's a nice hard bar, so it doesn't fall apart in the shower at all.
However, I did make several additional batches, so probably have a lifetime supply now
JONNYROTTEN
Well-Known Member
Not enough lye.
I just made a batch of soap that I've made before that was real good. This time I added 4 oz of shea butter with the same lye as before
40 oz olive oil (80%)
10 oz coconut oil (20%)
6.9 lye in 16 oz water.....this is what Ive done before.
I made the same recipe with 4 oz shea butter and upped it 7.1 lye ( no difference really)
Should I scoop it all out of the molds and add more lye with immersion blender....its been about a 1/2 hour in the mold..or is it to late
If yes how much more water and lye?
Longshot as I'll need an answer ASAP
I just made a batch of soap that I've made before that was real good. This time I added 4 oz of shea butter with the same lye as before
40 oz olive oil (80%)
10 oz coconut oil (20%)
6.9 lye in 16 oz water.....this is what Ive done before.
I made the same recipe with 4 oz shea butter and upped it 7.1 lye ( no difference really)
Should I scoop it all out of the molds and add more lye with immersion blender....its been about a 1/2 hour in the mold..or is it to late
If yes how much more water and lye?
Longshot as I'll need an answer ASAP
I think it's possible to "rebatch" soap. I've never done it, but probably just re-heating is OK.
I put your recipe in soapcalc with 5% superfat and I get 7.37 oz of lye (in 20.52 oz of water). Sounds like you're pretty close already.
I'm guessing that you're concerned that it didn't harden yet? Has it cooled yet? What temperature was it when you started mixing? Is the whole thing still soft, or just parts?
JONNYROTTEN
Well-Known Member
Thanks....I used Brableberry lye Calculator and came up with almost 11 oz....I must have done something wrong. 7.1 to 7.3 seems like I should be alright.
Is the shea butter the superfat?
JONNYROTTEN
Well-Known Member
I'm concerned its not going to get hard at all. I'm not sure about the temp of the oils, I didn't check it. I nuked the shea butter and coconut oil but the 40 oz of room temp olive oil must have brought down the temp a lot.
The lye was 115 deg when I added it.. Everything seems pretty soft, its only been an hour or less
I'd just let it go. I don't mess with mine until the next day.
If you use exactly the amount of lye to saponify the fats you have, then your "superfat" is zero. Most people, though, want to leave some fat in the soap so that it is not so drying. If you tell the calculator to leave 5% of the fat un-converted, then your superfat is 5%. Doesn't matter what type of fat, just that you have more than the lye can convert. Clear?
I made a soap last week with 8% superfat. It's still sorta soft a week later. Not playdough soft, but if you press it with your finger you can make a dent.
If you use exactly the amount of lye to saponify the fats you have, then your "superfat" is zero. Most people, though, want to leave some fat in the soap so that it is not so drying. If you tell the calculator to leave 5% of the fat un-converted, then your superfat is 5%. Doesn't matter what type of fat, just that you have more than the lye can convert. Clear?
I made a soap last week with 8% superfat. It's still sorta soft a week later. Not playdough soft, but if you press it with your finger you can make a dent.
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
sub
JONNYROTTEN
Well-Known Member
AHH HA... So its not any particular ingredient. It just a ratio from lye to ingredients. Lye only converts so much so the difference is the superfat...less lye more superfat....more oils same lye, more superfat..its that right
OP
OP
Yes, or you can do a "lye discount", and superfat that way. Either way it's the same thing.
When oils are soft at room temperature (or liquid), it takes longer for the soap to set up, especially if the temperature is cool enough so the soap doesn't gel. Some olive oil soaps may take days to firm up, but usually 24-48 hours works for most soaps. You can cut when the soap is firm, so give it at least a day or two, or even longer.
Right. Use more "hard" oils to make hard soap. E.g. My hardest soap had a lot of crisco in it. My softest was mostly olive and canola.
Lorena knows everything. Olive oil heavy soap takes a long time to really get hard.
Damn my dirty mind....
Damn my dirty mind....
JONNYROTTEN
Well-Known Member
Learn something new everyday. I thought super fat was some sort of super fatty ingredient...I was about to make a bacon grease soap for my after work shower before dinner....
Very cool thread, learned a lot. Gonna have to give this soap making a try! Thanks Yooper for posting and all who contributed. 
John
John
JONNYROTTEN
Well-Known Member
I'm curious about the lye calculator.
I went the Brambleberry one and it gave a choice for liquid or solid. I punched in liquid thinking olive oil is a liquid as is coconut and shea butter after heating.
The liquid choice gives lye amount of almost 11 oz. The same recipe with solid gives just over 7 oz. That's a huge difference and potential for a big mistake.
Why is there such a difference and why isn't it figured as a liquid?
I went the Brambleberry one and it gave a choice for liquid or solid. I punched in liquid thinking olive oil is a liquid as is coconut and shea butter after heating.
The liquid choice gives lye amount of almost 11 oz. The same recipe with solid gives just over 7 oz. That's a huge difference and potential for a big mistake.
Why is there such a difference and why isn't it figured as a liquid?
