LandoLincoln
Well-Known Member
Electrocution is death caused by electric shock, either accidental or deliberate.
What does "pedantic" mean?
Electrocution is death caused by electric shock, either accidental or deliberate.
Thank you. I really needed the laugh you provided for me.What does "pedantic" mean?
DEFINITIONS OF: pedantic
There's nothing wrong with focusing on the details, but someone who is pedantic makes a big display of knowing obscure facts and details.
Pedantic means "like a pedant," someone who's too concerned with literal accuracy or formality. It's a negative term that implies someone is showing off book learning or trivia, especially in a tiresome way. You don't want to go antique-shopping with a pedantic friend, who will use the opportunity to bore you with his in-depth knowledge of Chinese porcelain kitty-litter boxes.
Just trying to be helpful thanks for making me feel small.
Just trying to be helpful thanks for making me feel small.
Just trying to be helpful thanks for making me feel small.
Relax, Francis. If someone says, "man, I just electrocuted the crap out of myself putting in that outlet" they obviously did not die from electrical current. But there's no need to remind them that they were simply "shocked" instead of being "electrocuted."
And if a comedian is doing well in front of a crowd, he is not technically "killing them."
Your example of comedian is completely irrelevant with regard to correctly using the term ...
Pretty sneaky
I have a 100A service to my house with a 100A sub feed to my brew shop. I have 64A worth of elements all capable of being fired at the same time. And occasionally they all are. Everything is of course wired with proper over current protection. I have never tripped a breaker. My average monthly draw is about 4A. Try calculating what your electric bill would be if you ever got close to drawing 100A continuously or worse 200A!
At my cost of .06per Kw 100amp = $6044.40 a year based on 115 volt draw. I know nothing of antique litter boxes sorry
If you have a 240V service you calculate your total load with that. So if you maxed your service, you would pay double your calculation. And if you were me, you would more than double that number because I pay about 0.14/kWH.
I calculate my maxed 100A at $29,400/yr or $2,450/mo. I pay about $100/mo which is about 4 of those 100A.
thadius856 said:100A 120V continuous draw for me at my poor people power rate of 10.06c/KwH would be $10,575 per year.
However, I get a discount off retail price. A good chunk of my pay is tied up in "allowances", which aren't counted or taxable a "income". As such, I'm locked into a no-tier system (as is much of the state's residents). Retail prices are scary, built off a baseline tiered system.
Baseline (Up to baseline) $0.13 per kWh
Tier 2 (101%-130%) $0.15 per kWh
Tier 3 (131%-200%) $0.30 per kWh
Tier 4 (201%-300%) $0.34 per kWh
Tier 5 (>300%) $0.34 per kWh
Last month's baseline as shown on my bill was 384 kWh. We'll pretend that's the average for the year.
120V 100A continuous is 12 kWh per hour, or 105,120 kWh per year. Hence...
Baseline (Up to baseline) $0.13 per kWh - first 4608 kWh costs $599.04 (100,512 kWh to go)
Tier 2 (101%-130%) $0.15 per kWh - next 1382.4 kWh costs $207.36 (99,129.6 kWh to go)
Tier 3 (131%-200%) $0.30 per kWh - next 3225.6 kWh costs $967.98 (95,904 kWh to go)
Tier 4 (201%-300%) $0.34 per kWh - next 4608 kWh costs $1,566.72 (91,296 kWh to go)
Tier 5 (>300%) $0.34 per kWh - remaining 91,296 kWh costs $31,040.64 (all done)
For a grand total of... $34,381.74 per year.
Funny thing is, that's for 100 amp service. Many nearby houses have 200A service, and it's not uncommon to see 3000+ sq ft houses on 400 amp service.
Edit: Total was 686 kWh for 32 days billed, which is 21.44 kWh per day, or 893 watts average continuous. Think I need to go around and turn off some more lights...
No, because you really only have a few 240 draws Dyer, range, water heater, pool/spa which draw 1/2 the amps that they would if they were run off 110/120 volt. When calculating the total line you need to calculate each circuit then total.
No, because you really only have a few 240 draws Dyer, range, water heater, pool/spa which draw 1/2 the amps that they would if they were run off 110/120 volt. When calculating the total line you need to calculate each circuit then total.
You are billed for power (Watts), not amps or volts.
10A @ 240V or 20A @120V are both 2,400W. If you ran either load for 1 hour you'd be billed for 2.4kWh of power just the same.
Amps X Volts = Watts and you actually pay per Kilowatt which is 1000 Watts
Watts
While I get where you're going with this one, he's correct. A watt is not something can be billed upon because it only describes a load at one point in time that has zero length. Its meaningless (for billing purposes) without a timeframe, which is why you're billed in kilowatt-hours.
1 kWh could be 500 watts for 2 hours or 250 watts for 4 hours or 28,800 watts (120V 240A) for 2.1 minutes.
I calculated 120V because the dryer is my only 240V circuit that gets used.
But yes, clearly I have two 120V legs. So if you want to double, go ahead.
Our discussion was about the maximum cost for a 100A service. You can figure that as 100A x 120V x 2-legs = 100A x 240V. If you use 120V x 100A you have to double it to represent the max you can draw.
My main point was that most services are drawing no where near full capacity on average. That is not to say that a house with a lot of electrical appliances could not have a large current spike under certain conditions. That is why 100A is the minimum residential service now and larger houses will have 200A or larger services.
Yeah, I'm sure. Tightwad SOBs...probably would have been a fraction of a percent on the whole project. Probably had to special order the oddball 150A panel too.
I have primarily electric heat at my place (dual fuel, electric & natural gas). Draws 18kW when operating. Was put in before I bought the house and it looks like they upgraded the system to a 150A panel at the time. Not sure why they didn't just go 200A but, whatever, I suppose.
I'm not sure what state your in, but if you have natural gas but are primarily using electric for heat (ie. heat pump) then you should look into using gas for 100% of your heating. Price to upgrade to a gas furnace may be worth it with low NG prices and possibly even lower with the NG surplus we has. NG should be a lot cheaper, unless you live in a state with moderate winters.
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