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So who's worked in their main electrical panel?

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Call me crazy or stupid I guess, I did not even shut the main breaker down. Pulled the old breaker out and stuck in the GFCI. HOWEVER... I have in the past worked for electrical contractors. If you dont know what you are doing call an electrician...

I work in electrical panels all the time, I can't shut off the main, or I would be shutting down reliability tests and lights and test equipment. If you aren't feeling comfortable working in a breaker panel, don't! Remember don't fear it, respect it. If it's your home you can certainly switch off the main.:)
 
I installed a 50A GFCI spa panel for our hottub and the line for it a few years ago without issues. I'm not an electrician, however I spent about a week or 2 learning the code requirements and what it all took to do it as well as the permit process for it where I live. No issues since installation. I figure I can do the same again when I fininsh building my 50A electric brewery setup. Its not that difficult however you do have to know a little about electricity and at least the basics of wiring. That being said, if you're unsure or uncomfortable doing this kind of work, call an electrician. It's what they do!

beerloaf
 
I did HVAC for 15 years, working with live power. I've oops'ed lots of times and had 120/240 run up my arm, but the 3 or 4 times I've been electrocuted, it was so pain full, it makes your muscles contract so you can't let go, each time I bit my tounge. It feels like getting hit with a sledge hammer. The best part is the house hold 15amp outlet can kill the biggest man 15 times over, people get lucky because they are not grounded well. This thread has some bad info.
 
Electrocution is death caused by electric shock, either accidental or deliberate. The word is derived from "electro" and "execution", but it is also used for accidental death. The term "electrocution," coined about the time of the first use of the electric chair in 1890, originally referred only to electrical execution (from which it is a portmanteau word), and not to accidental or suicidal electrical deaths. However, since no English word was available for non-judicial deaths due to electric shock, the word "electrocution" eventually took over as a description of all circumstances of electrical death from the new commercial electricity. The first recorded accidental electrocution (besides lightning strikes) occurred in 1879 when a stage carpenter in Lyon, France touched a 250 volt wire
 
I just had my service upgraded to 200A. We did it because we needed a 20A circuit for a new above ground pool.

(what the wifey doesn't know yet is that a couple of those new empty new circuits are going to be wired to an ebrewery this fall >:) )
 
Electrocution is death caused by electric shock, either accidental or deliberate. The word is derived from "electro" and "execution", but it is also used for accidental death. The term "electrocution," coined about the time of the first use of the electric chair in 1890, originally referred only to electrical execution (from which it is a portmanteau word), and not to accidental or suicidal electrical deaths. However, since no English word was available for non-judicial deaths due to electric shock, the word "electrocution" eventually took over as a description of all circumstances of electrical death from the new commercial electricity. The first recorded accidental electrocution (besides lightning strikes) occurred in 1879 when a stage carpenter in Lyon, France touched a 250 volt wire

That is a nice little tidbit of info there. I guess I've been "shocked" many times but not yet electrocuted.
 
I just had my service upgraded to 200A. We did it because we needed a 20A circuit for a new above ground pool.

(what the wifey doesn't know yet is that a couple of those new empty new circuits are going to be wired to an ebrewery this fall >:) )

Pretty sneaky;)

I have a 100A service to my house with a 100A sub feed to my brew shop. I have 64A worth of elements all capable of being fired at the same time. And occasionally they all are. Everything is of course wired with proper over current protection. I have never tripped a breaker. My average monthly draw is about 4A. Try calculating what your electric bill would be if you ever got close to drawing 100A continuously or worse 200A!
 
What does "pedantic" mean?
Thank you. I really needed the laugh you provided for me.

P-J

DEFINITIONS OF: pedantic

There's nothing wrong with focusing on the details, but someone who is pedantic makes a big display of knowing obscure facts and details.

Pedantic means "like a pedant," someone who's too concerned with literal accuracy or formality. It's a negative term that implies someone is showing off book learning or trivia, especially in a tiresome way. You don't want to go antique-shopping with a pedantic friend, who will use the opportunity to bore you with his in-depth knowledge of Chinese porcelain kitty-litter boxes.
 
Just trying to be helpful thanks for making me feel small.

Relax, Francis. If someone says, "man, I just electrocuted the crap out of myself putting in that outlet" they obviously did not die from electrical current. But there's no need to remind them that they were simply "shocked" instead of being "electrocuted."

And if a comedian is doing well in front of a crowd, he is not technically "killing them."
 
If y'all keep using those 50 cent words, I'm gonna have to go to the remedial HB forum for us illiterates.:)
 
Relax, Francis. If someone says, "man, I just electrocuted the crap out of myself putting in that outlet" they obviously did not die from electrical current. But there's no need to remind them that they were simply "shocked" instead of being "electrocuted."

And if a comedian is doing well in front of a crowd, he is not technically "killing them."

Your example of comedian is completely irrelevant with regard to correctly using the term shock or electrocution.
 
Your example of comedian is completely irrelevant with regard to correctly using the term ...

- sanitize or sterilize
- mash or steep

Many excellent cases where this applies. I'd rather be corrected and understand than to continue to be wrong and look like a fool. Some folks are good with looking like a fool though. (Not saying mikescooling looks like a fool. This is a very common misuse of the word. If he does it again, that is foolish though!)
 
Pretty sneaky;)

I have a 100A service to my house with a 100A sub feed to my brew shop. I have 64A worth of elements all capable of being fired at the same time. And occasionally they all are. Everything is of course wired with proper over current protection. I have never tripped a breaker. My average monthly draw is about 4A. Try calculating what your electric bill would be if you ever got close to drawing 100A continuously or worse 200A!

At my cost of .06per Kw 100amp = $6044.40 a year based on 115 volt draw. :D I know nothing of antique litter boxes sorry:drunk:
 
At my cost of .06per Kw 100amp = $6044.40 a year based on 115 volt draw. :D I know nothing of antique litter boxes sorry:drunk:

If you have a 240V service you calculate your total load with that. So if you maxed your service, you would pay double your calculation. And if you were me, you would more than double that number because I pay about 0.14/kWH.

I calculate my maxed 100A at $29,400/yr or $2,450/mo. I pay about $100/mo which is about 4 of those 100A.
 
100A 120V continuous draw for me at my poor people power rate of 10.06c/KwH would be $10,575 per year.

However, I get a discount off retail price. A good chunk of my pay is tied up in "allowances", which aren't counted or taxable a "income". As such, I'm locked into a no-tier system (as is much of the state's residents). Retail prices are scary, built off a baseline tiered system.

Baseline (Up to baseline) $0.13 per kWh
Tier 2 (101%-130%) $0.15 per kWh
Tier 3 (131%-200%) $0.30 per kWh
Tier 4 (201%-300%) $0.34 per kWh
Tier 5 (>300%) $0.34 per kWh

Last month's baseline as shown on my bill was 384 kWh. We'll pretend that's the average for the year.

120V 100A continuous is 12 kWh per hour, or 105,120 kWh per year. Hence...

Baseline (Up to baseline) $0.13 per kWh - first 4608 kWh costs $599.04 (100,512 kWh to go)
Tier 2 (101%-130%) $0.15 per kWh - next 1382.4 kWh costs $207.36 (99,129.6 kWh to go)
Tier 3 (131%-200%) $0.30 per kWh - next 3225.6 kWh costs $967.98 (95,904 kWh to go)
Tier 4 (201%-300%) $0.34 per kWh - next 4608 kWh costs $1,566.72 (91,296 kWh to go)
Tier 5 (>300%) $0.34 per kWh - remaining 91,296 kWh costs $31,040.64 (all done)

For a grand total of... $34,381.74 per year.

Funny thing is, that's for 100 amp service. Many nearby houses have 200A service, and it's not uncommon to see 3000+ sq ft houses on 400 amp service.

Edit: Total was 686 kWh for 32 days billed, which is 21.44 kWh per day, or 893 watts average continuous. Think I need to go around and turn off some more lights...
 
If you have a 240V service you calculate your total load with that. So if you maxed your service, you would pay double your calculation. And if you were me, you would more than double that number because I pay about 0.14/kWH.

I calculate my maxed 100A at $29,400/yr or $2,450/mo. I pay about $100/mo which is about 4 of those 100A.

No, because you really only have a few 240 draws Dyer, range, water heater, pool/spa which draw 1/2 the amps that they would if they were run off 110/120 volt. When calculating the total line you need to calculate each circuit then total.
 
thadius856 said:
100A 120V continuous draw for me at my poor people power rate of 10.06c/KwH would be $10,575 per year.

However, I get a discount off retail price. A good chunk of my pay is tied up in "allowances", which aren't counted or taxable a "income". As such, I'm locked into a no-tier system (as is much of the state's residents). Retail prices are scary, built off a baseline tiered system.

Baseline (Up to baseline) $0.13 per kWh
Tier 2 (101%-130%) $0.15 per kWh
Tier 3 (131%-200%) $0.30 per kWh
Tier 4 (201%-300%) $0.34 per kWh
Tier 5 (>300%) $0.34 per kWh

Last month's baseline as shown on my bill was 384 kWh. We'll pretend that's the average for the year.

120V 100A continuous is 12 kWh per hour, or 105,120 kWh per year. Hence...

Baseline (Up to baseline) $0.13 per kWh - first 4608 kWh costs $599.04 (100,512 kWh to go)
Tier 2 (101%-130%) $0.15 per kWh - next 1382.4 kWh costs $207.36 (99,129.6 kWh to go)
Tier 3 (131%-200%) $0.30 per kWh - next 3225.6 kWh costs $967.98 (95,904 kWh to go)
Tier 4 (201%-300%) $0.34 per kWh - next 4608 kWh costs $1,566.72 (91,296 kWh to go)
Tier 5 (>300%) $0.34 per kWh - remaining 91,296 kWh costs $31,040.64 (all done)

For a grand total of... $34,381.74 per year.

Funny thing is, that's for 100 amp service. Many nearby houses have 200A service, and it's not uncommon to see 3000+ sq ft houses on 400 amp service.

Edit: Total was 686 kWh for 32 days billed, which is 21.44 kWh per day, or 893 watts average continuous. Think I need to go around and turn off some more lights...

Damn, my house is 1600 sq ft 5 fridges/freezers + spa here's mine over 1/2 my bill is fuel charges

image-2423788965.jpg
 
No, because you really only have a few 240 draws Dyer, range, water heater, pool/spa which draw 1/2 the amps that they would if they were run off 110/120 volt. When calculating the total line you need to calculate each circuit then total.

If we are maxing out a 100A service, we are drawing 100A at 240V or 200A at 120V. You may not be drawing anything on one leg if you only have 120V loads running but your meter is still monitoring 240V and averaging the draw of the two legs.
 
No, because you really only have a few 240 draws Dyer, range, water heater, pool/spa which draw 1/2 the amps that they would if they were run off 110/120 volt. When calculating the total line you need to calculate each circuit then total.

You are billed for power (Watts), not amps or volts.

10A @ 240V or 20A @120V are both 2,400W. If you ran either load for 1 hour you'd be billed for 2.4kWh of power just the same.
 
You are billed for power (Watts), not amps or volts.

10A @ 240V or 20A @120V are both 2,400W. If you ran either load for 1 hour you'd be billed for 2.4kWh of power just the same.

Amps X Volts = Watts and you actually pay per Kilowatt which is 1000 Watts
Watts X Hours run X Days run per year = Total Watts
Total Watts divided by 1000 X cost per Kw will give you total cost per year.
 

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