So do diy my setup or just go with the unibrau

[rpolzin25]

So as the title says trying to decide the route I want to take. I like doing things myself and tend to research the crap out of things but not sure how complicated building a controller really is. I really like Brau Supply's setup and was debating, do I buy the set up as is? It seems he is currently discounting his current stock so price may not be too crazy (he was running a 20% off coupon during black friday which would put the full 240V system at price under $700). I currently have a bayou classic 44 qt pot but don't have the basket (if building from scratch I would just put in a pizza grate false bottom).

So if I were building my own setup it pretty much mimic that of the UniBrau. I have 3 routes I could see taking.

1. Just buy the unibrau as is and not worry about having to put things together.

2. Buy the unibrau setup minus the controller and then build my own controller

3. Build everything from scratch as I already have the same kettle (would still need to do the hole for the element and recirculation return in the lid and would need a false bottom to prevent bag from sitting on the element)

My big concern is trying to figure out the cost of everything (specifically w/ the controller) and what the cost should be. I saw augiedoggy built his own for $300 which has more bells and whistles since he has a 3 vessel system.

Also, its not like I need or am able to use the system right away. Currently I don't have an available 30 amp outlet but am building a house this spring of which it planned to have the electrician install a 30 amp outlet in the basement. So this fall would be when I would be able to actually brew on the new system.

Basically it would be nice to have a controller that has the EZboil power regulator and I wanted to use 2 illuminated switches. It would probably be nice to have an alarm on it and probably a stop mushroom button. Maybe a hybrid between ebrewsupply biab controller and the brausupply controller. Thanks in advance.

 

[BeardedBrews]

My e-Keg for BIAB used the cheapest components I thought I could get away with while still enjoying the brew day and I ended up in the $300's. If you build for yourself I'd bank on something in that neighborhood for a bare bones configuration.

When it comes right down to it, you pay for convenience and appearance which are simply personal preference items. Sourcing parts takes time, wiring the controller takes time, having a nice polished looking panel takes time and money, having nice disconnects on everything takes money, having lights on the switches takes money.

If/When I rebuild my system it is fairly likely that I will go with a pre-built controller:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=467
or
https://brausupply.com/collections/...ts/unibrau-controller-240v?variant=1033763804

I will also be looking at element options that are easily removable for cleaning, a dedicated whirlpool port, and possibly a SS mesh basket to replace the bag.


The BIAB controller you're describing is basically a slight modification of one of these:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=55

Again, more cost = less time spent sourcing your own parts and planning the system.

 

[rpolzin25]

Believe me, if its not a significant difference in price I would go prebuilt hands down. I already have the kettle that is used by Brau Supply for their setup and since I don't have a basket, I would just make a pizza screen false bottom. I actually started a spreadsheet pricing out what I want to do and if I just use my kettle to build off of I can pretty much build the unibrau for less than $250 w/o the controller. I am just trying to figure out the exact cost of the controller if I build it myself. If it comes to about what the brau supply controller costs I will just save the hassle and buy it prebuilt.

I did actually send an email to ebrewsupply.com seeing if they could help me put together what I need for the internals of the brew controller. I can buy the EZboil and a precut single PID enclosure w/ heatsink directly from auberins and then I think I could get the rest through ebrewsupply.com.

Basically my vision of a brew controller would be to have a 2 way green toggle switch to turn on power to the panel, a blue or yellow switch turning on the element and then a blue or yellow switch turning on the pump. I only plan on one pump for circulation. It really comes down to the insides of the controller as that is the part that is the most complicated to me. So if anyone can help me there it would be much appreciated.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

Believe me, if its not a significant difference in price I would go prebuilt hands down. I already have the kettle that is used by Brau Supply for their setup and since I don't have a basket, I would just make a pizza screen false bottom. I actually started a spreadsheet pricing out what I want to do and if I just use my kettle to build off of I can pretty much build the unibrau for less than $250 w/o the controller. I am just trying to figure out the exact cost of the controller if I build it myself. If it comes to about what the brau supply controller costs I will just save the hassle and buy it prebuilt.

I did actually send an email to ebrewsupply.com seeing if they could help me put together what I need for the internals of the brew controller. I can buy the EZboil and a precut single PID enclosure w/ heatsink directly from auberins and then I think I could get the rest through ebrewsupply.com.

Basically my vision of a brew controller would be to have a 2 way green toggle switch to turn on power to the panel, a blue or yellow switch turning on the element and then a blue or yellow switch turning on the pump. I only plan on one pump for circulation. It really comes down to the insides of the controller as that is the part that is the most complicated to me. So if anyone can help me there it would be much appreciated.

The insides arent that difficult if your just doing a single element, its 2 contactors($30) a SSR($10), a 240V twist lock socket(preferably), 120V socket for the pump, all your switches/led's and a bunch of 12 gauge wire going everywhere. Your enclosure assuming your going water tight steel is going to be by far the most expensive component. All could be ordered Amazon prime for cheap. I'd guess you'd be in the 300-400 range as others have listed once everything is all done.

On a more personal note, i will always believe you shouldn't be building a box unless you actually understand what it is your doing(how a contactor works, how the SSR works, where your power is going at any given moment and for every possible button/switch configuration), not just blindly hooking things together following a PJ schematic you found here on HBT. 240V pulling 20 amps(5500W element) isnt a joke and you can very easily die taking that type of current. That also said, its not that difficult to learn and honestly even if the prices for a retail enclosure and DIY were closer i'd still build my own. Why? Because when it breaks i know how to fix it. While i appreciate the premade boxes for SBE, or from EbrewSupply, in reality within a few years of use something is going to die. A contactor will stop working, a SSR will latch high, an LED will go out. What are you going to do then? Ship it back to get fixed(assuming any seller actually does that)? Throw it away?

 

[TexasWine]

I'd drop @brausupply a note and inquire what it would cost to buy everything you need to complete your system. Basically it sounds like you need everything except the kettle, right?

I know what I would do if I was in your shoes, as I've been in them before. I knew my limitations and that I couldn't/wouldn't put together a system that was anywhere near the quality that someone who does this for a living could/would. If I did, the amount of time and research I would have to put into it would have been ridiculous. So I just bought one of the Brau Supply systems and have been happily brewing ever since.

So my advice, take advantage of the sale, and sell your old kettle on Craigslist. Or keep it around. I've found my old kettles come in handy every so often.

 

[rpolzin25]

On a more personal note, i will always believe you shouldn't be building a box unless you actually understand what it is your doing(how a contactor works, how the SSR works, where your power is going at any given moment and for every possible button/switch configuration), not just blindly hooking things together following a PJ schematic you found here on HBT. 240V pulling 20 amps(5500W element) isnt a joke and you can very easily die taking that type of current. That also said, its not that difficult to learn and honestly even if the prices for a retail enclosure and DIY were closer i'd still build my own. Why? Because when it breaks i know how to fix it. While i appreciate the premade boxes for SBE, or from EbrewSupply, in reality within a few years of use something is going to die. A contactor will stop working, a SSR will latch high, an LED will go out. What are you going to do then? Ship it back to get fixed(assuming any seller actually does that)? Throw it away?

So I am pretty smart guy and wouldn't start the wiring process and putting stuff together w/o at least making sure i have the basic understanding. But I certainly understand the concern. So far pricing things out I am at over $300 for just the controller so in the end I may very well just buy the prebuilt controller from Brau Supply.

 

[rpolzin25]

I'd drop @brausupply a note and inquire what it would cost to buy everything you need to complete your system. Basically it sounds like you need everything except the kettle, right?

I know what I would do if I was in your shoes, as I've been in them before. I knew my limitations and that I couldn't/wouldn't put together a system that was anywhere near the quality that someone who does this for a living could/would. If I did, the amount of time and research I would have to put into it would have been ridiculous. So I just bought one of the Brau Supply systems and have been happily brewing ever since.

So my advice, take advantage of the sale, and sell your old kettle on Craigslist. Or keep it around. I've found my old kettles come in handy every so often.

I actually have emailed Steven but haven't heard back from him since yesterday. He had mentioned some extra discount and I had a few other questions so still not a hundred percent sure which way i will go.

 

[augiedoggy]

My e-Keg for BIAB used the cheapest components I thought I could get away with while still enjoying the brew day and I ended up in the $300's. If you build for yourself I'd bank on something in that neighborhood for a bare bones configuration.

When it comes right down to it, you pay for convenience and appearance which are simply personal preference items. Sourcing parts takes time, wiring the controller takes time, having a nice polished looking panel takes time and money, having nice disconnects on everything takes money, having lights on the switches takes money.

If/When I rebuild my system it is fairly likely that I will go with a pre-built controller:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=467
or
https://brausupply.com/collections/...ts/unibrau-controller-240v?variant=1033763804

I will also be looking at element options that are easily removable for cleaning, a dedicated whirlpool port, and possibly a SS mesh basket to replace the bag.


The BIAB controller you're describing is basically a slight modification of one of these:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=55

Again, more cost = less time spent sourcing your own parts and planning the system.

while I do agree with what your saying
I built my entire 3 element and 3 pump control panel in my avatar for less than $300 so you could priced and built one for less if you looked a little harder. I listed links to my component sources in my thread and there are few few other DIY thread here which did the same.
A person can build acomplete electric pid diy biab 16 gallon stainless based setup with a pump for under $300 including an immersion chiller if and this is the big catch, they shop around and don't fall for the buy it all from the same store approach.
The single ezboil based controller brau sells has been broken down by components and cost in another thread here so I'm not going to rehash it here. I totally agree the best choice for each person depends on the reasons you already Mentioned

The aluminum enclosure brau uses are not waterproof and cost about $10. cheaper even than the water resistant home depot carlon plastic ones high gravity uses and I used. There's also only one contactor\relay besides the ssr since the pump uses a regular 10a 22mm switch. If you use the rated twistlock or aviation connectors instead of thenema type to can build it for $100.

 

[jleiii]

Don't short change the circuit you plan to install. 30 amps is pretty low for an electric system. 50 seems the most popular due to the availability of gfci spa panels that are cheaper than a 50 amp gfci alone.
I tapped into my electric range circuit to run mine, but it's only 40 amps. I had to build my control with an interlock so I could not run the boil kettle and RIMS (on high) at the same time. I'm about to replace the kettle with a bigger one and it will become an HLT, so now I'm in a bigger jam with a third element. With RIMS on high I have 4400, plus 5500 now, totaling 41.25 amps. Add another 5500 in the new kettle, and I'm not sure how to pull it off.

Technically I could run the boil and HLT (or RIMS on high) at the same time even on 40 amps because once I'm at a boil it's down near 20% of full output. I chose to interlock it to avoid any chance of popping the breaker by accident. Unless I'm trying to do back to back brews it works well now, but I'd really like to do back to back every time now that I will have a powered HLT. I have trouble making time to brew as it is, and 2 in 1 is a real bonus.

I'm not the best one to comment on DIY since I'm a crazy over the top DIY guy, but I will say that a custom build has it's advantages in that you can design your panel to fit your system/needs rather than making your system match a pre-built panel. Nothing wrong with that of course....

 

[hobomoto]

I went with a custom dual 2000 watt element/15 gal kettle setup from brau supply with his PID and a plate chiller and couldn't be happier. Steven was great to work with and helped me get this custom setup which is awesome. No problems boiling 10 gallons of wort. His customer service is great too, if not just a little slow at times which is understandable since he is very busy I imagine. I had one hiccup due to a faulty element and he handled it and helped me trouble shoot it and replaced it.

I too looked into building my own, and while it would have been rewarding... when it came down to it I just wanted to brew, not spend countless hours researching and finding the right parts online, learning electrical wiring, buying tools I didn't have, etc.

It was worth it to me spend the extra on the brau supply unit.

Good luck!

 

[augiedoggy]

30amps is more than enough for a BIAB setup...
I can't imaging any benefits from a 50a power circuit short of having the power if one decides to abandon BIAB and go to a larger 3 vessel system? Or am I missing something?

If someone doesn't want to spend "countless hours" I suggest just spending 30 minutes sourcing the components on eBay as an alternative... If you want an ezboil controller buy one for $40 from auberins and source the rest from eBay. If you want to spend more time dealing with the overcomplicate search restrictions on amazon you can buy it there but the prices are usually higher even from the sellers that sell on both eBay and Amazon.

Like it was mentioned it's very useful to have an understanding of the tools your using and how to maintain them should something go wrong.. take for example the folks who bought a jaggerbush control panel before the owner died and they closed up shop.

 

[rpolzin25]

It won't be a major issue for me for the understanding part. When I started looking electric several months back I thought it was going to be far more complicated than it seems now. Once I figure out everything I need and actually put it together I will gain a lot more knowledge. I think the hardest part is figuring out where to start w/ stuff. For me its more figuring out what I specifically need on the internal side of things. I typically find when I DIY stuff that I learn as I go and generally have a decent understanding of how something works.

So for my plan at this point I am going to wait for Brau Supply's newer version to come as it has some bells/whistles that I think are worth waiting for as I was chatting w/ Steven last night. As for the controller, I am leaning towards the DIY route for the simple reason FuzzeWuzze stated, if something goes wrong or breaks I at least know how it was put together and would know how to fix it. Once I am able to get a list of supplies I plan to buy I will post them on here or if someone is willing to look over my list of materials and plan that would be a huge help. Thanks

 

[BeardedBrews]

I'm sure we'd all be happy to browse the list, bonus points if you include clickable links

My controller box including the temperature probe but not including the element cost me $96.50 all-in. That's a significant savings over the BrauSupply equivalent. But, it's a plastic ammo box using light switches as contactors, non-NEMA plugs, and skipping some disconnects for ease of wiring. If the EZBoil had been out when I built I would have bought that along with the Auber temp probe. That would have pushed me up to $120, which is still a good deal.

Now here's the rub. If I was starting over from scratch today, I would probably buy the BrauSupply unit. Cost isn't as much of a factor as it was when I built mine, and the design on the BrauSupply is exactly what I would want. I priced out comparable parts, rotary switches, stand-alone 2-pole contactor, enclosures and plugs, and it was cheaper than theirs by ~$80-120 depending on domestic/foreign sourcing. For my time, it's not worth fooling with the wire strippers.

 

[borealis]

So for my plan at this point I am going to wait for Brau Supply's newer version to come as it has some bells/whistles that I think are worth waiting for as I was chatting w/ Steven last night.

I'm kind of in the same boat as you. What bells/whistles are you talking about?

 

[rpolzin25]

I'm kind of in the same boat as you. What bells/whistles are you talking about?

He was mentioning some better connections, volume markings, temp probe placement on the kettle and I think TC fitting for the element(s) and maybe a couple more things. Sounds like it will be a little more expensive but he was expecting it to be posted on his site middle of January.

 

[rpolzin25]

So here is what I got to this point for my parts list w/ prices. I am not going to include shipping in the costs just because I feel like being a little lazy.

EzBoil PID Specifically the DSPR300 model - $58.95
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53&products_id=560

Precut single PID box and 40 amp heatsink - $52.90
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=340

3 Illuminated 22mm 240v selector switches - $8 each for total $24
Blue for pump, green for turning on system, yellow for the element
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/blue-led-toggle-led-2-way-switch/

40 amp SSR - $12
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/40a-solid-state-relay-ssr-v2/

Mushroom Button - $6 (there are cheaper ones on ebay but have 4 connections instead of 2 so not sure if thats too many?)
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/emergency-stop-mushroom-button-nc-contact/#product-description

Temperature Sensor setup
Temp sensor and cord 1/2 npt - $12.98
http://m.ebay.com/itm/RTD-Pt100-Tem...%3A7059a6331590a7884447d813ffc518a1%7Ciid%3A1

XLR male panel outlet pre-wired - 4 ft - $5
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/xlr-male-panel-outlet-pre-wired-w-4ft/

XLR femal plug (to complete temp sensor connections) - $3
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/xlr-female-plug/

L5-15 flanged outlet for pump - $9.99
http://m.ebay.com/itm/NEMA-L5-15-Lo...%3A6f2961ed1590a2a1a1edcd94ffc74925%7Ciid%3A1

5-15r to L5-15p cable - $10.99
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Extension-Cor...%3A6f2f5a941590a7850437a5b8ffc16015%7Ciid%3A1

L6-30 flanged outlet for element - $11.99
http://m.ebay.com/itm/NEMA-L6-30-Lo...b72467efffe2ab3e%7Ciid%3A1&varId=551458615228

L14-30C connecter for controller power - $7
http://m.ebay.com/itm/NEMA-L14-30P-...%3A6f21dfb21590a2af778dce5affc849d0%7Ciid%3A1

L14-30 flanged inlet for controller power - $12.49
http://m.ebay.com/itm/NEMA-L14-30-G...%3A6f2396b61590a6a5ca2f556fffc3e3f3%7Ciid%3A1

220V 40A, 110V coil, contactor x 2 - $13.50 each (Total $27)
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/220v-40a-110v-coil-contactor/\

Total so far is $254.29 not including any shipping costs and I know I don't have fuses or a power cord factored in yet. I was overwhelmed w/ choices for the contactors on ebay so open to some feedback there. I figure this is a pretty good start and would appreciate any input or suggestions. My plan was to use the green illuminated selector switch like the key switch for turning on the system so if thats not something that is doable or a good idea, let me know. Thanks

 

[BeardedBrews]

Your temp sensor link is different that what you describe (price and components), just double check you're getting the parts you think. That said, the linked item is not a bad price considering it includes the panel mount connector with jumper wires.

Your contactor choice is fine, you can get them on Amazon too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0161BLI9I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

An economical way to do the power cord is to use a pre-made appliance cord, again from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KO11O/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


I believe the mushroom button is redundant with the green illuminated switch, but that is strictly personal preference. I chose to eliminate both of those as well as the second contactor and I simply unplug the appliance from the wall when not in use.

I should have included, and would encourage you to consider some implementation of the safe-start relay:
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-safe-start-interlock?page=1


At the end of all of that, it sounds like you're at $300 to build your controller. Up to you on how much time you're willing to spend to save $100

 

[rpolzin25]

Your temp sensor link is different that what you describe (price and components), just double check you're getting the parts you think.

I just updated the link to one on ebay. I forgot to put in in my spreadsheet

 

[rpolzin25]

I believe the mushroom button is redundant with the green illuminated switch, but that is strictly personal preference. I chose to eliminate both of those as well as the second contactor and I simply unplug the appliance from the wall when not in use.

I should have included, and would encourage you to consider some implementation of the safe-start relay:
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-safe-start-interlock?page=1


At the end of all of that, it sounds like you're at $300 to build your controller. Up to you on how much time you're willing to spend to save $100

I will definitely look into the safe start and have been wondering about the potential redundancy of using the e-stop w/ the switch for turning everything on. One wiring design i saw only showed 1 contactor so what would be the purpose of 2 contactors?

 

[BeardedBrews]

I will definitely look into the safe start and have been wondering about the potential redundancy of using the e-stop w/ the switch for turning everything on. One wiring design i saw only showed 1 contactor so what would be the purpose of 2 contactors?

Most often people use one contactor to disconnect the main power from the entire box, and then a second contactor to fully disable the element when the box is powered up. The SSR is a common failure point so you'll want a convenient way stop the electricity going to your kettle.

 

[rpolzin25]

So just wanted to double check on a few things.

Would the enclosure I am looking at be a good overall size/deal since I can have the controller portion precut and get the heat sink with it? Was going to do the 40 amp heatsink which is a $20 addition. I have to order the Ezboil from auberins which would be $5 shipped and adding this to the order brings it to $20 shipped. I figured I might want to order this now w/ the savings on the enclosure.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=340

And then I just wanted to double check on the temp probe parts to make sure everything would go together like I think it would.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/RTD-Pt100-Tem...%3A7059a6331590a7884447d813ffc518a1%7Ciid%3A1

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/xlr-male-panel-outlet-pre-wired-w-4ft/

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/xlr-female-plug/

And then this should be what i need for the safety lock?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EYDB09I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Now would I need to purchase some DIN rails for the inside of the enclosure? And is there anything else I might be missing. I know I need to look for some fuses.

 

[BeardedBrews]

So just wanted to double check on a few things.

There is nothing magical about the Auber heat sinks, you could find a cheap one on eBay or Amazon. They make models that mount inside the control box so you don't have to cut the sides if you prefer:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019132A1I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

That would work inside this:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=143

Which would be a more compact approach if you didn't want to do wall-mounted.

There are also enclosure options on Amazon if you're interested in doing your own layout:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UP9YYI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20



Yep, you're right on for the temperature probe. XLR is popular but any 3-wire disconnect will work.


Safe-Start relay looks to match the design instructions, but I've never wired that. I'd say you're on the right track.


Regarding DIN rail, that's up to you. I personally don't see the need given the scale of the project. Wire nuts and zip-ties work pretty well and you shouldn't be inside the box that often anyway.

 

[rpolzin25]

There is nothing magical about the Auber heat sinks, you could find a cheap one on eBay or Amazon. They make models that mount inside the control box so you don't have to cut the sides if you prefer:

Yea i thought about buying a box on ebay/amazon but was kind of liking the fact that some of the work was done on box from auberins. Its really not sigficantly priced that much higher when you consider time it would take to cut the hole for the sink as well as for the controller. Plus I wasn't sure if it would be a pain to cut square holes in the metal enclosure.

I am not worried about using a compact controller as this is planned to go in the basement and really won't be needing to be moved around much at all.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I really depends on you. Do want to build one or just buy one. I had zero clue what Electric brewing was and with the help her built my bare bones,works awesome setup. I would hands down build my own system if I were you. Its really very simple and youll save a lot of money. You already have the pot. Iwould think you could build a 220v system including the controller for around $200. After brewing electric for 3 years I've come to realize you need practically nothing for electric brewing and everything else is bells and whistles, pumps,alarms,light up switches etc. I could give you a list of what youll need for a simple setup like mine and in one day youll be built.

 

[rpolzin25]

I really depends on you. Do want to build one or just buy one. I had zero clue what Electric brewing was and with the help her built my bare bones,works awesome setup. I would hands down build my own system if I were you. Its really very simple and youll save a lot of money. You already have the pot. Iwould think you could build a 220v system including the controller for around $200. After brewing electric for 3 years I've come to realize you need practically nothing for electric brewing and everything else is bells and whistles, pumps,alarms,light up switches etc. I could give you a list of what youll need for a simple setup like mine and in one day youll be built.

I would be curious to see what you did for your controller. I have figured out I could make it super super simple of a build that would make it cheaper but at the same time some of those bells whistles are what I want so its worth the money to me. I know I could pretty build the unibrau for less but his pot (according to the owner) is almost 12 gallons (45 liters) so that one extra gallon compared to what i have now to me is worth it.

 

[madscientist451]

Since you are building a new home, I'd wait until you are in there before making any decision on buying or building a brewing system. You should also install, or have some one else install, a ventilation system to carry off the water vapor from boiling, plumbing including a drain for a sink/wash area and electrical connections for your fermentation chamber. While all that is going on you have plenty of time to consider what brewing equipment is going to work best for you and what your budget is. You may change your mind about what you like/don't like or find out about a product you haven't heard about yet.
Sure, you can build your own E-brew system and save money, but if money isn't the determining factor and if you have a lot of other things going on, perhaps a pre-built system is better for you. Happy Brewing.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I would be curious to see what you did for your controller. I have figured out I could make it super super simple of a build that would make it cheaper but at the same time some of those bells whistles are what I want so its worth the money to me. I know I could pretty build the unibrau for less but his pot (according to the owner) is almost 12 gallons (45 liters) so that one extra gallon compared to what i have now to me is worth it.

If you want the bells and whistles by all means have at it. I'm more of a if I don't need it I don't want type of person. Heres my controller.PID,Light switch to kill power to element(necessary) and and kill switch I'll never use but put in in for safety. Three years running and endless 10 gallon batches and I still don't wish I added anything

 

[rpolzin25]

Since you are building a new home, I'd wait until you are in there before making any decision on buying or building a brewing system. You should also install, or have some one else install, a ventilation system to carry off the water vapor from boiling, plumbing including a drain for a sink/wash area and electrical connections for your fermentation chamber.

That is definitely already in the plans. Have it figured out in the basement where I will brew plus having the electrician install 30 amp service to the brew area and for the plumber to install the drain for a sink.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Jonny makes a very valid point about simplicity.

All we're trying to do is turn stuff on and off. The PID does some that automatically, but a light switch would work too You don't have to use a basket, or recirculate, or use a pump, or even have a chiller to make good beer.

I quit trying to recirculate, it's easier for me to skip it and use insulation. I only use my pump while I'm heating to strike temperature (to keep things mixed), and at the end of the boil (to make my chiller run faster), but I could eliminate the pump entirely and just use a spoon.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Since you are building a new home, I'd wait until you are in there before making any decision on buying or building a brewing system. You should also install, or have some one else install, a ventilation system to carry off the water vapor from boiling, plumbing including a drain for a sink/wash area and electrical connections for your fermentation chamber. While all that is going on you have plenty of time to consider what brewing equipment is going to work best for you and what your budget is. You may change your mind about what you like/don't like or find out about a product you haven't heard about yet.
Sure, you can build your own E-brew system and save money, but if money isn't the determining factor and if you have a lot of other things going on, perhaps a pre-built system is better for you. Happy Brewing.

+1 on this. Be sure to budget enough for the space to be user friendly:

Big sink with spray hose
Hot water
Floor drain (easier for many tasks than the sink)
Plenty of extra regular outlets (think kitchen outlets)
Storage including hanging / drying space
Room for fermentation chambers and kegerators

 

[rpolzin25]

+1 on this. Be sure to budget enough for the space to be user friendly:

Big sink with spray hose
Hot water
Floor drain (easier for many tasks than the sink)
Plenty of extra regular outlets (think kitchen outlets)
Storage including hanging / drying space
Room for fermentation chambers and kegerators

I think its going to be like a 12 x 12 area. I am not teribbly concerned about the outlets as I know i can always run more since I have done that myself in the past. The kegerator may not actually sit in the room because I plan on having a bar area nearby where I will run the taps through the wall w/ the kegerator on the other side.

 

[BeardedBrews]

I think its going to be like a 12 x 12 area. I am not teribbly concerned about the outlets as I know i can always run more since I have done that myself in the past. The kegerator may not actually sit in the room because I plan on having a bar area nearby where I will run the taps through the wall w/ the kegerator on the other side.

Sounds like a great plan. Having the fermentation chamber close to the boil kettle really helps with convenience. You can eliminate lifting completely until the beer is in the keg, which makes everything easier and safer.

I use a pump to go straight into the carboy, and then CO2 to go straight from the carboy to the keg. Only ever lifting empty carobys is great, and the kegs have nice strong handles.

 

[rpolzin25]

So I have a quick question on fuses. I see some people use breakers in their panels and others use actual fuses. Wondering if there is a benefit either way?

Any suggestions on something in particular? Thanks

 

[BeardedBrews]

Fuses are cheap but you have to keep spares, you can reset a breaker if it trips.

You can even go the combo route and put a breaker in to act as the switch:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=580

A switch like that could take the place of the combination small switch and contactor approach.

 

[rpolzin25]

Well I went ahead and ordered a scratch/dent enclosure w/ heatsink from auberins as well as the ezboil power regulator. I went w/ the 120 model though on the ezboil as I realized I really didn't need the extra features of the 300 model and probably wouldn't really use them. So definitely on track to keep the controller cost to under $300. I will have to keep track of all my expenses post it when all is said and done.

 

[augiedoggy]

So just wanted to double check on a few things.

Would the enclosure I am looking at be a good overall size/deal since I can have the controller portion precut and get the heat sink with it? Was going to do the 40 amp heatsink which is a $20 addition. I have to order the Ezboil from auberins which would be $5 shipped and adding this to the order brings it to $20 shipped. I figured I might want to order this now w/ the savings on the enclosure.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=340

And then I just wanted to double check on the temp probe parts to make sure everything would go together like I think it would.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/RTD-Pt100-Tem...%3A7059a6331590a7884447d813ffc518a1%7Ciid%3A1

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/xlr-male-panel-outlet-pre-wired-w-4ft/

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/xlr-female-plug/

And then this should be what i need for the safety lock?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EYDB09I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Now would I need to purchase some DIN rails for the inside of the enclosure? And is there anything else I might be missing. I know I need to look for some fuses.

heres the same pt100 probes for a couple bucks less each.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...d88111f&pid=100623&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=131845878196

I would go with these for my pt100 control panel control panel wiring.... your looking at like $1.50-2.00 each with wires and connectors soldered on vs $8 plus shipping each...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pair-Avia...093229?hash=item5692345f2d:g:pG4AAOSw-0xYWm6U
I use these same connectors and they work fine.

This all adds up Trust me.

 

[jayjaytuner]

thinking about ordering the unibrau pro 100l vessel & basket... by itself waiting on my quote.

 

[augiedoggy]

Here are the pumps Brau uses... I don't believe they are food grade or have a coated magnet.(maybe someone else can confirm). add the $4 power supply and you can buy it for less than half of the cost as Brau sells them for with shipping. http://m.ebay.com/itm/24V-DC-Mini-B...3A8f8e41841590a605d4b8f12dffc35abe%7Ciid%3A19 I believe the cheaper tan p38 pumps are better since they are made of food grade pps plastic and have a sealed coated magnet designed for food grade use.