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Sleeves' GE 7.0 Keezer Build

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Sleeves

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Hello all! Long time lurker here. I have been gathering up all the info I can on this forum and I wanted to say thanks to all the info and contributors of said info! It has been an unbelievable resource.

So, I have wanted a draft setup for a while now and was just going to get a standard store bought kegerator....until I found the existence of the coffin keezer! I did not know these even were being built until maybe 5 months ago. I decided to give it a shot (along with a lot of help from the father-in-law who can build anything it seems) and here it goes! The following is my progress up until today (I will clear coat tonight and begin installing the hardware tomorrow.)

Started with a GE 7.0 cu. ft. freezer. I am planning for 2 sixth kegs (lo-pro couplers) and one corny (just now getting into brewing beer but have been brewing kombucha for a while).

I built the box similar to a few on here out of 2 bys and plywood. I allowed for a 2 bys width of clearance for ventilation. Now, for the stuff that has to look good I had left over tile and the father-in-law had the wood and some stone. and after a few weeks this is what we get...

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Its very easy really. To take top off, just unbolt the hinges from the freezer. To just load kegs, we are going to install 2 locking hinges like you would see on a chest or tool box. Besides that you can always use the very sophisticated prop-open-with-stick method!
 
Wow! That think is beautiful, very nice job!

I am planning for 2 sixth kegs (lo-pro couplers)

Those lo-pro couplers are pricey, I thought I might need them as well when I did a keezer a few years ago, but found a standard coupler fit, measuring carefully, the beer out line will press down a smidge. Another option is to use standard couplers with a 90 degree elbow on the beer out line.
 
Yes, that is the model I have. Will fit the 2 sixth and a corny. I was hoping to find a way to fit 3 sixth but I don't think its happening!

The lo-pro couplers are pricy. I did not want to have to build a collar if I did not have to. I also checked out the 90 degree elbows and just decided to go ahead and do the lo-pros. They are super slick and really easy to use. Glad I went with them!

So I got my 2 sixths in last night (Angry Orchard Crisp Apple and Sam Adams Fat Jack Double Pumpkin....yummy). Have the regulator set to about 11psi for both and have 5 foot lines. Temp is set to 39 on the controller and the temp swings from about 39 to 34 degrees. The temp probe is wrapped in bubble wrap and is at the bottom of the freezer. Should the probe be at a diff location?

The first pour from the Sam is a bit foamy so I think I will try and extend the beer line to about 10 feet. Any comments? Also, I only have one 120mm fan blowing air through the PVC pipe and it runs all the time. I will most likely be adding a second to pull cold air from the bottom and have the second as an exhaust. Ill try to snap more pics tonight and post.
 
Temp is set to 39 on the controller and the temp swings from about 39 to 34 degrees. The temp probe is wrapped in bubble wrap and is at the bottom of the freezer. Should the probe be at a diff location?

First, nice looking build. :ban:

You should get less temperature undershoot if you take the probe out of the bubble wrap, as it will respond faster, and shut the freezer off with less over cooling. Hanging the probe near a side wall should be fine. Make sure you have a long compressor delay time set in the controller, and set the hysteresis to about 2º F (or 1º C.) Having full or partially full kegs in the keezer will significantly slow the temperature rise and minimize compressor cycling. Give it a try. If it doesn't work, you can always put the bubble wrap back on.

Brew on :mug:
 
Thanks man! Excellent.

My idea with the wrap was to block it from the air flow but still have it respond to the actual temp. I do not want to put it in water for the same response issues. I have seen people putting the probe in sand. But, maybe in this case, the simple solution is the best solution. Ill try placing the probe just dangling inside near the wall but not touching. You would think a mechanical engineer would know this stuff!...I hated thermodynamics but now I need it, haha!

Any advise on the beer line length and pressure.?
 
The FCM7SHWW doesn't have the floor space the SU had, as you've found. If you're going straight on the floor, with nothing on the hump, you've got quite a lot of room for three kegs (LOADS of extra room with ball lock cornys, good room with pin lock cornys, and as you've found quite a few options to mix and match 1/4bbl slims, 1/6bbl, and cornys). You won't fit three slims, or three sixtels, but if one of the kegs is a corny you've still got some nice options for three beers.

For balancing your lines, I'd recommend (in increasing complexity and depth of explanation):
http://www.newbelgium.com/files/Basics%20of%20Draught%20Dispense.pdf

https://byo.com/stories/item/164-balancing-your-draft-system-advanced-brewing

http://www.perlick.com/files/3713/8238/0023/TapMyBeerBrain_email.pdf

Short answer? I'd try four to five feet of 3/16" ID line with 13 PSI at 38F. You'll notice that you can get a lot more complicated given those linked resources.
 
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Awesome info! So, looks like the settings and beer line are fine. Maybe a bit foamy but it has diminished considerably since the keg sat overnight. Great pours now. I left the probe loosely shielded in the bubble wrap to keep it blocked from the airflow and it seems to be responding much faster.

Any ideas to keep the PVC pipe from sweating or a containment idea? The wrap helps but it still sweets. Another layer?

Attached are a few pics of the back and inside.

Now I need to either get some kombucha going or start my home brewing (have a starter kit just need to get it going!) The 3rd tap is lonely.

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