Single tier banjo burner setup

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BrokenDog

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Hey guys I'm ordering all my parts to get my single tier together and all I have left is the gas parts, but I want to make sure I'm getting what I need.
I ordered the BG-14 burners and plan on using the orfices that came with it unless someone has another idea.
http://www.bayouclassicdepot.com/bg14_cast_iron_burner.htm
I'm looking at 2 different 30 psi regulators, I'll probably go with the Bayou just b/c that's where I plan to get the valves.
http://www.bayouclassicdepot.com/5hpr30-high-pressure-propane-regulator-kit.htm
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/regulator-kit-for-banjo-burner.html
The 2 needle valves I'm looking at are both from Bayou Classic, they look the same with the same stats but one is $3 cheaper and I can't figure out why if anyone has an idea.
http://www.bayouclassicdepot.com/638-fnpt-mpt-needle-valve-brass-fitting.htm
http://www.bayouclassicdepot.com/nv108p_propane_burner_part.htm
For plumbing I'll probably have some flexable hoses made to run between the burners like a lot of the BrewSteel models have, although black pipe is always an option.
Hopefully I can get some direction from someone who has experienced this issue since hours of searching don't seem to quite give me a solid answer.
 
I'm literally going through this same thing myself for the past few days and only found resolution today (I hope). Plumbing three BG-14's to my brand new stand (still in progress). I got my stuff (mostly) from www.gashosesandregulators.com. Not a plug, in fact I think I overpayed by a bit (just a hunch), but they had exactly what I was looking for. My manifold is 1/2" BWP to three feeds to 3 ball valves (1 per feed) to flexible 1/2" tubing (all this from Home Depot). Two of them convert (35-68) to needle valves (CVO250) while the third has to go into and out of a Blichmann Tower of Power solenoid (1/2" to 1/4" to 3/8") (33-6B, 48-6D) and then to the final needle valve (CVO250). Those valves are sized and jetted for the BG-14's running LP so I'll be ditching the stock pieces.

I like this for the 90 degree elbows not putting so much stress on the hoses. The dual-valves are probably overkill, but this way I can turn the gas on and off with the ball valve and not have to worry about adjusting the final flow rate set with the needle.

I agree there is a startling lack of documentation on LP plumbing given how thorough everyone generally is regarding all other aspects of their builds. Lemme know what you find or if you want any more info from me. I hope to have all my pieces before Saturday as I'm having a bunch of guys over to brew then. Be much better to brew than stare at a non-functioning stand.
 
I agree. I am a newbie, but have been reading and admiring everyone's set ups for months and months. I have now dove in and have my frame built. My banjo burners are in the mail, but I can't find any actual step by step or directions on what parts are needed and how to set up the burners with a pilot for automation.

so, if anyone is out there that has done this and has some direction, please send us in the right direction.

Much thanks!
 
Well I just ordered the Bayou classic 30 psi regulator and 3 Bayou Classic needle valves, not 100% if this will all work but I'm going to give it a shot. Once I have what I need whether it is this stuff or something else, I'll post a parts lists, some build info and a few pics.
 
I'm at the same place, with too many questions and not too many answers. I have a 3 tier with 3 bg14s and no gas systems. Let me know what you find out.
 
OneManBrewery said:
I'm at the same place, with too many questions and not too many answers. I have a 3 tier with 3 bg14s and no gas systems. Let me know what you find out.
Click to expand...

I ended up finding a local shop called Fairview Fittings that built the gas line for me. The one thing that helped more than anything was that they replaced the orfices that came with the burners with right angle orfices that had 1/4 MPT thread instead of the 3/8 flared. Once that one piece was replaced all the parts became up easier for them to sorce and build.
Here is a photo of everything assembled with the burners lit.

20130509_172445.jpg
 
I got the adjustable 10 psi from bayou classic and it has an orifice already attached to it instead of a nut like yours. You think that will effect the performance of it supplying 3 burners with orifices. I'm going for a low pressure system.
 
Could you post a few Picts of the burner mounts/kettle supports? I really like how it looks and would do the same on my new build but I'm not sure how to execute. Thanks for sharing your build.
 
Bigscience said:
Could you post a few Picts of the burner mounts/kettle supports? I really like how it looks and would do the same on my new build but I'm not sure how to execute. Thanks for sharing your build.
Click to expand...

Sure I'll get some closer up shots when I get home. If you want the demensions of everything as well I can take some measurements.
 
I'm somewhat in the same situation. I'm trying to figure out all the parts needed so I can order them up.

I'm using this design for my gas "line" and am going to run some Home Depot flex hose from the line up to the burners. On the burners, what valves should I run?

Also, I'm guessing the 30psi regulator you linked from Bayou would be a good choice to coming out of the beam?

Once my burners get here I'll really be ready to start tossing this thing together.
 
riored4v said:
I'm somewhat in the same situation. I'm trying to figure out all the parts needed so I can order them up.

I'm using this design for my gas "line" and am going to run some Home Depot flex hose from the line up to the burners. On the burners, what valves should I run?

Also, I'm guessing the 30psi regulator you linked from Bayou would be a good choice to coming out of the beam?

Once my burners get here I'll really be ready to start tossing this thing together.
Click to expand...

I would deffinitly go with needle valves like the ones I posted and not ball valves, they are much better at small changes to gas flow. The 30 psi regulator I have seems to work well, although having the adjustable regulator before the needle valves makes for a lot of messing around before you find a good flow rate.
 
So I've always ran a tank and regulator per burner and am not seeing how if you run a few of those full bore you won't ice up a tank. I also tend to brew 2 batches at once so I'll be running the HLT and Kettle wide open at the same time. Plus having 2 tanks helps prevent running out of propane. Do the 3 burner-1 tank guys use larger tanks?
 
I just did my first batch with the system a few weeks ago and had no problems with freezing. You have to consider though that at on time are you running more than 2 burners at a time and usually only one is running wide open.
 
BrokenDog said:
I would deffinitly go with needle valves like the ones I posted and not ball valves, they are much better at small changes to gas flow. The 30 psi regulator I have seems to work well, although having the adjustable regulator before the needle valves makes for a lot of messing around before you find a good flow rate.
Click to expand...

I'm guessing it also provides better accuracy?

Mine will all be controlled manually.
 
BrokenDog said:
I just did my first batch with the system a few weeks ago and had no problems with freezing. You have to consider though that at on time are you running more than 2 burners at a time and usually only one is running wide open.
Click to expand...

If you double brew (mash while boiling) you will have 2 going full bore at once. Would this then be the equivalent of 2 15 psi regulators?
 
Heat on the MT will be extremely low unless it's near freezing outside, I had mine as low as the flame could get without going out the whole time while recirculating and held 152 perfectly the entire hour.
 
Bigscience said:
Could you post a few Picts of the burner mounts/kettle supports? I really like how it looks and would do the same on my new build but I'm not sure how to execute. Thanks for sharing your build.
Click to expand...


I forgot to take those pictures before I went out of town, but I should be able to get some on Sunday.
 
Here are the pictures as promised. I also am including a few of the gas line b/c I know someone wanted to see that closer up.

20130609_154955.jpg


20130609_155026.jpg


20130609_155107.jpg


20130609_155046.jpg


20130609_155041.jpg
 
Do you happen to have the P/N for those 90* fittings? I think I want to use those, then the needle valves and attach flex hose to those.
 
riored4v said:
Do you happen to have the P/N for those 90* fittings? I think I want to use those, then the needle valves and attach flex hose to those.
Click to expand...

I don't know the part number although I'm sure it would be easy enough to get if you called them. I showed them what I wanted and he went right to the parts book and pulled up the 1/4" 90 degree orifice. They come in specific jet sizes but they will also custom drill whatever you want. Really all I had to do was give them the jet size and distance between the burners for the line length and they did the rest. I was probably more expensive than black pipe but for ease of installation I'm satisfied.
 
Thanks for the Picts. So how far from the top of the burner to the top of the box? It looks like the is another hole above to adjust it higher, is that right?
 
Bigscience said:
Thanks for the Picts. So how far from the top of the burner to the top of the box? It looks like the is another hole above to adjust it higher, is that right?
Click to expand...

The heat shield is 5" total. From the top of the jets to the top of the shield is about 3 3/4", I would have liked it even lower but that's as far as I could go and still have the burner completely covered. I think I am having a some incomplete burn, not sure if that is from the height of the burner, the lack of airflow, size of the orfice, etc may be causing this issue, anyone with experience in this feed, I would love to hear from you.
Oh and as far as the other holes, they where drilled by the shop that built the stand, they are at 2 1/2" and way too high for use with these burners.
 
I read somewhere that these burners need 4" from the tip to the bottom of the pot. I'll see if I can find and post the source.
 
Bigscience said:
I read somewhere that these burners need 4" from the tip to the bottom of the pot. I'll see if I can find and post the source.
Click to expand...

I've seen that too and I think it could be even more than 4" depending on the setup, but outside of adding an extension to my heat shield or risers on the top, I"m pretty much stuck with what I have. Although being keggles I guess I have over 4" with where the bottom starts.
 
I got my gas tubing installed finally. I never knew home brewing would turn me into an amateur welder and pipe fitter. I got everything at my neighborhood Lowes for the gas system. The flexible hose was originally for gas fireplaces and had extra fittings I needed... great find. Here's some pics.
Great thread Broken Dog. I went with the 1-10 psi Bayou classic regulator, works great with the BG12s. Even with all 3 running simutaneously, blue flame.

DSC_0922.jpg


DSC_0924.jpg


DSC_0919.jpg
 
I went to Lowes and HD multiple times and just stared in frustration at the fittings isle, I'm glad you had better luck than me.
 
I was standing there confused and frustrated too. Thankfully a Lowes worker took his time and he helped me piece it together. I would of never known about the flexible hose or ever found it without him.
 
OneManBrewery, or any one else on here, know what the fireplace kit looked like? I've been to both Lowes and HD and neither had someone that was able to help me piece my system together. I have 3 banjo burner with their own regulators, and just need to know how I should hook them all up to one tank.
 
It's made by Dormont, I found it at Lowes in the gas fireplace area. Brasscraft makes a similar one but it's more pricey. It comes with connectors that I needed to go from needle valve to black metal flex tubing and other end connects right to orifice. It's comes with some pipe sealant. Its never leaked, made plumbing easier and looks great. All you need is a gas needle valve. Hope this helps.

20131211_095046.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Am I missing something? I've been researching how to plumb my single tier build for a while now. I am using BG14 burners with the 0-30 psi high pressure regulator. All of the flexible gas pipe some of you are using in this thread are rated for extremely low pressures. Some of them are rated at a max of .5 psi. I assume because they are made for low natural gas pressure. I'm not that intelligent, but my brain is telling me if I added this flexible gas hose and at even 10 psi (which is low for these burners) I would be exceeding the max .5 psi of the hose by 20x. Kind of scary. Should I not be concerned about this? I don't need any flame throwers in my garage.
 

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