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five0three

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Hello!

New to the forum and new to brewing. I've looked around a bit, read some threads that have answered most of my questions. What I am left with is curiosity of whether or not its best to buy a pre-made equipment kit, or build my own. One thing i've learned as i've participated in different ventures and hobbies is that if you start with a price point, your starting with a compromise.

So this is my question. I am basically starting from scratch. I have a mini fridge i'm willing to commit to the process. I have room for a full size. beyond that I have nothing. Where should I spend my money? I plan on brewing 5 gallon batches. I'd like to keg, then bottle from the keg. All grain. I don't want to buy things that are going to fail or become a hindrance.

Advice?

:mug:
 
Hello!

New to the forum and new to brewing. I've looked around a bit, read some threads that have answered most of my questions. What I am left with is curiosity of whether or not its best to buy a pre-made equipment kit, or build my own. One thing i've learned as i've participated in different ventures and hobbies is that if you start with a price point, your starting with a compromise.

So this is my question. I am basically starting from scratch. I have a mini fridge i'm willing to commit to the process. I have room for a full size. beyond that I have nothing. Where should I spend my money? I plan on brewing 5 gallon batches. I'd like to keg, then bottle from the keg. All grain. I don't want to buy things that are going to fail or become a hindrance.

Advice?

:mug:


it depends - depends on your attitude in terms of your time, your money, convenience, quality, durability, flexibility, etc.

Everyone has a sweet spot in that phase space. For some it's a bucket fermentor and extract brewing. For others its stainless steel conicals with automated electric programmable systems, glycol chillers etc.

My sweet spot: all-grain method with DYI mashtun (Coleman 70 qt cooler, blue), DYI immersion chiller (50 ft. of copper tubing, shaped into a coil), 20 gallon aluminum pot with DYI ball-valve for 10G-15G batches (also 10 gallon aluminum pot for 5G batches), dedicated propane burner. DYI stirplate made from a fan and some magnets and legos.

That's on the hot side.

On the cold side: a bunch of fermenters - I would do PET Fermonster 7G - a compromise between glass, stainless and buckets, and I have done all of those at some point.
You will also need tubing for transfers, hydrometer/refractometer, some buckets, tubing, maybe carbacap, auto siphon (better yet sterile stainless steel siphon), wine thief, etc.

Also: Fermentation chamber/freezer with temp control. Starsan, fermacap, whirlfloc, salts/acids for water chemistry, oxyclean.

That's the cheap stuff.

The expensive part (for my setup anyways) is on serving side. CO2 tank, regulators, manifolds, valves, Nitro tank, keezer, 9 taps, 9 serving lines for gas/beer with all disconnects, 12 kegs, beergun etc. - miscellaneous bits and pieces. You can maybe save some money by getting just a few keg capacity first, (but what fun is that?).
 
I was in a similar situation when I started. I opted to get the Grainfather. There's a huge these here on it with tons of great info... But basically that's a great way to get everything you need to brew all grain. In addition, you're going to need a carboy or some sort of fermentor, some pbw for cleaning, star San or iodophor for sanitizing, a racking can, airlock, and of course ingredients.

Where are you located? A LHBS should be your first stop... They will get you set up. You can probably find the Grainfather cheaper online if you go that route, but if you get everything else at the LHBS, you should get a ton of good advice and someone to call with questions.

Regarding bottling, if you start by kegging you'll likely never bottle. You can use growlers to bring beer places.

I'm sure other will elaborate on this... There's a million ways you can go and tons of toys you will collect once you start and hone in on your process.
 
Excellent advice! I am located about 30 miles NE of Little Rock Ar. Currently away on business so I have yet to visit my LHBS.

The grain father and similar systems look awesome, but might take some of the elements of the process that initially attracted me to the idea of venturing into this hobby.

Wheres the best money spent within boil pots?

Who has a good DIY for a tun?
 
I would go with a 10 gallon or larger pot, and do brew-in-a-bag. I don't see a whole lot of reason to go the three vessel route.
 
I would go with a 10 gallon or larger pot, and do brew-in-a-bag. I don't see a whole lot of reason to go the three vessel route.

Definitely don't go three vessel route.
BIAB is great - or fine to a point, very efficient if you don't brew big beers and don't want to mash overnight.

I am lazy so for me a $50-$70 investment in a dedicated cooler mashtun made a lot of sense. I can get a lot of grain in there without needs for pulleys to get those 50-70lbs of wet grain out. And I can leave the mash in there for hours, and even overnight. Most of my mashes happen when I boil strike water and mash in at 11PM, go immediately to bed, then resume at 6AM or so, saving at least an hour of conversion time - I am usually all done by 10-11AM. I couldn't do it with BIAB setup unless I had a cooler incorporated into it somehow.

I brew mostly 10G batches nowadays, but once in a while I do 5G batch, or maybe I just need a quick boil - so I think both 8-10G kettle (for 5G batches) and 15-20G kettle (for 10G batches) are useful.

You could start with BIAB and 10G kettle and see if you like it. I like to pour grains into hot water, measure the temperature, pH, and then walk away and do something else, for an hour and a half, or maybe 10 hours. If you like to watch your pot, then BIAB may be better.
 
Don't rule out the 3-vessel route. I used to do BIAB and now I've assembled a mash tun with a false bottom. Besides having an issue with stuck sparges that I think I have worked out now I'm much happier with a proper mash-tun. Sparging in a BIAB system was horrible.

That said, I brew small batches and it was hard for my mash to hold heat. I also didn't really like that in order to sparge I had to get another pot of water to the right temperature. That said, there are no-sparge methods of BIAB, but I would think that you'd have to be careful not to make the mash too dilute if you were brewing a light/session ale.

The great thing about homebrewing is that you can start small and as you go you can add parts to make your home brewery your own. You can start with a kettle, siphon, tubing, fermenters (with airlocks), sanitation gear, and bottling (or kegging) gear and brew good extract beer. From there you can get mesh bags and start using steeping grains or do BIAB, and those don't cost much, and while you're doing that you can still use extract as your main source of fermentables if you like. If you decide BIAB isn't right for you but you like what you've been making using grains then you can get a cooler and make it into a mash tun.
 
Wheres the best money spent within boil pots?

Who has a good DIY for a tun?

DonO has a good set of instructions for a mash tun.

I went with a different cooler setup, basically this but with a 3-gallon cooler:

I will say that I had some trouble with stuck sparges with my first couple brews in that setup. I haven't brewed enough since I tried a fix to say that it wont be an issue anymore, but it looks promising.

I've heard great things about Blichmann kettles.
 
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Since you're new to brewing, the main issue is that you don't really know yet what level of brewing works best for you. It would be a shame to spend hundreds (or more!) on a setup only to find that it doesn't really fit your style. You seem to know that you want to do all grain so I would recommend you start with BIAB. Get a 10 or 15 gal pot and a paint strainer bag (or one from Wilserbrewer) and go for it. If you love it and decide to go for a 3-tier system, you're only out the money for the bag. All the other gear you need (fermenters, temp controller, chiller, kegging gear, etc) you will need for any kind of brewing.
 
^ I agree and would go this route too! Cheers and welcome to the dilemmas of what to buy next... ;-) Or in your case, what do I buy first...
 
A few comments in addition to the above:

1. Kits are often the best way to buy equipment, provided you need all of it. Trying to piece together one item at a time is arduous, and if you're not sure... Further, kits always seem to have a significant discount associated with them.

2. Homebrew online retailers have deals all the time. Northern Brewer, for instance, has a 20-percent off sale from time to time. Sometimes they have a discount for a single item. This can be an excellent way to save money which you can then devote to other items. Morebeer does sales and such, and many others including vendors on this site do as well.

If you can be a little patient (on the order of 30 days patient), you can get a lot more for your money.

3. I have, occasionally in various hobbies, bought items that later I'll sell as used. I don't necessarily consider it money lost if I either learned something or had a good time with it. Depending on the item, you might expect to recover 1/2 to 2/3 of the value selling it. So even if you decide not to continue home brewing you aren't just throwing money down a rathole.

4. I think there's a lot of value in finding someone local, if you can, to walk you through brewing. It can drastically speed up the learning curve to see someone do it or help the first time. They may have opinions on equipment or which items are better, and you may be able to use or try their system to see for yourself. Same with a local homebrew club, if there is one. And there may possibly be someone looking to sell a system which, as per above, might cost 1/2 to 2/3 of what new would be.
 
Thanks mongoose!

I'm having trouble finding a kit exactly to my liking. I really think I'd like to start out kegging. From what I can tell, I'll be best served piecing what i want together.

I have a mini fridge im willing to donate to the cause, and I have room for a full size refrigerator or an ample chest freezer. Any advice on the best angle to start kegging right out of the gate, or is this an ill advised decision...
 
I would go with a 10 gallon or larger pot, and do brew-in-a-bag. I don't see a whole lot of reason to go the three vessel route.

The great thing about homebrewing is that you can start small and as you go you can add parts to make your home brewery your own. You can start with a kettle, siphon, tubing, fermenters (with airlocks), sanitation gear, and bottling (or kegging) gear and brew good extract beer. From there you can get mesh bags and start using steeping grains or do BIAB, and those don't cost much, and while you're doing that you can still use extract as your main source of fermentables if you like. If you decide BIAB isn't right for you but you like what you've been making using grains then you can get a cooler and make it into a mash tun.

I agree with this. Start out small, figure out the process, figure out what you need, and go from there. There is no "perfect" kit out there. Every one is going to have something that you don't need, or missing something that you do. Pick one, get what is missing for you, and start brewing. You will quickly learn and begin to adjust your process. I would say there are too many variables to buy the perfect AG three vessel setup for a new brewer from the get go. I started out brewing 1 gallon batches, and now do 5 gal no sparge BIAB. For me it's the perfect way to brew AG, yet keep things simple.
 
Thanks mongoose!

I'm having trouble finding a kit exactly to my liking. I really think I'd like to start out kegging. From what I can tell, I'll be best served piecing what i want together.

I have a mini fridge im willing to donate to the cause, and I have room for a full size refrigerator or an ample chest freezer. Any advice on the best angle to start kegging right out of the gate, or is this an ill advised decision...

The same principle still applies. Start out simple with a 5lb C02 tank, regulator, 1-2 kegs in your mini-fridge, and picnic taps. If it works for you then you can always expand to a fully-fledged keezer with a stout tap on nitrogen (and keep a look out for keezers for sale in the classifieds here and on Craig's List).

Kegconnection is a great place for putting together exactly what you want (eg. http://www.kegconnection.com/standard-kits/) and their customer service is awesome.
 
The same principle still applies. Start out simple with a 5lb C02 tank, regulator, 1-2 kegs in your mini-fridge, and picnic taps. If it works for you then you can always expand to a fully-fledged keezer with a stout tap on nitrogen (and keep a look out for keezers for sale in the classifieds here and on Craig's List).

Thanks mongoose!

I'm having trouble finding a kit exactly to my liking. I really think I'd like to start out kegging. From what I can tell, I'll be best served piecing what i want together.

I have a mini fridge im willing to donate to the cause, and I have room for a full size refrigerator or an ample chest freezer. Any advice on the best angle to start kegging right out of the gate, or is this an ill advised decision...

BTBNL has some good advice on kegging. I did exactly that--had a couple kegs, used refrigerator, a regulator, bought a 5# CO2 tank and a picnic tap, and I was in business. Made it easier to take my time on the keezer. :) Even the picnic tap--if you build a kegerator or keezer--will remain useful. I have a small 1.5-gallon keg to take to a party or camping weekend or whatever, and the picnic tap is what I use to serve from that.

Let me note a few other things too. I just finished brewing my 19th batch; first three were extract, then all grain from there. So I can remember fairly vividly what it was like to be new at this. YMMV.

1. I've bought the 6.5-gallon Bigmouthbubblers made from PET plastic from Northern Brewer. After reading the horror stories of broken glass carboys, I knew I'd never go there. Heavy, harder to handle, and if they break you can be seriously injured. The BMBs are very light, and since the mouth is wide, you can reach all the way inside to clean with a soft cloth (never clean plastic items with anything that might scratch them as that will make them very difficult to clean effectively).

There are other big mouth plastic fermenters. There is a downside currently w/ the BMB--their universal lid sometimes doesn't seat correctly. There's a workaround for it, but I like these enough I bought a 3rd one. I never liked the idea of using a pail for fermenting. I know lots of folks are good brewers with them, but since I can't see through the pail, I'd have to remove the lid to see inside, there are just a number of things I don't like about it. (Same comment for those now angry--I know that many people brew fine beer in them).

And that brings to mind this: I'm old enough to have experienced, many times, cheaping out early on something only to later regret that purchase as I bought something better. Buy quality now if you can. I know not everybody has a lot of disposable income to devote to this hobby, but try not to cheap out if you can.

And BTW, there's never a top to this. There will always be something better than I have, so what's "cheap" to one is high quality to another.

2. I really do think kits are the way to go for new brewers. To me at least, it's a hard hobby to get comfortable with right away. There are all these new terms that don't mean anything yet: sparge, rack, vorlauf, tun, mash, cold break, hot break, coffee break (j/k); malt, diastatic power, strike water, starter, etc. etc. etc. At least kits will not leave you with some crucial piece missing as you set up for brew day. Still, they may leave out something desirable, like a long-handled spoon, or a hydrometer, or whatever.

The Northern Brewer good kit includes an extract recipe as part of the kit--so you don't even have to worry about what to buy in that regard. You get something known to work well, so that you can focus entirely on the process.

3. Good on you for thinking ahead on things like kegging. Once you order your equipment and set up a brew day and then brew, you'll still have 2-4 weeks of that beer sitting in the fermenter. So there's no urgency, other than paying attention to deals and sales, to have to have all that kegging equipment at the outset.

This will allow you to focus on and begin to master the brewing process. It's not rocket science but there can be a lot to do, in the right order. Heck, my very first brew (with the NB kit) was a goof--I was supposed to add the extract when water temp reached boiling but I added it after the steeping grains were finished, at 170 degrees. Oh well. Didn't help matters much.

But I survived. :)
 
The same principle still applies. Start out simple with a 5lb C02 tank, regulator, 1-2 kegs in your mini-fridge, and picnic taps. If it works for you then you can always expand to a fully-fledged keezer with a stout tap on nitrogen (and keep a look out for keezers for sale in the classifieds here and on Craig's List).

Kegconnection is a great place for putting together exactly what you want (eg. http://www.kegconnection.com/standard-kits/) and their customer service is awesome.

Wow thanks for the link! That's far cheaper than what I had been looking at.
 
Another piece of equipment often neglected in kits, a refractometer. Hydrometers are great and I hear that some are even shatter-resistant now, but I really like how it takes only a couple drops of the liquid on a refractometer to get a near instantaneous gravity reading, regardless of the liquids temperature.

But I brew small batches where it can be a real pain to lose a wine thief full of beer. With you planning to brew 5 gallon batches, a hydrometer can work just fine.
 
1 - go find the homebrew club in Little Rock.
go to their meetings and talk to them.
Ask them questions and see if any are selling gear that they outgrew.

2 - buy gear a little larger than you think you will need.
Getting a larger mash tun will allow you to do "big beers" (gravity) and also allow you to do 10 gallon batches for normal gravity beers.
Same for the boil kettle...go big. Be able to do big beers without worry about boil overs or ten gallon batches.

I know you said you plan on doing the 5 gallon batches but the extra time to do 10 gallons in a go is maybe 30 minutes tops for double the beer.Definately worth it plus if you brew with a buddy it's 5-gallons each.
 
1 - go find the homebrew club in Little Rock.
go to their meetings and talk to them.
Ask them questions and see if any are selling gear that they outgrew.

2 - buy gear a little larger than you think you will need.
Getting a larger mash tun will allow you to do "big beers" (gravity) and also allow you to do 10 gallon batches for normal gravity beers.
Same for the boil kettle...go big. Be able to do big beers without worry about boil overs or ten gallon batches.

I know you said you plan on doing the 5 gallon batches but the extra time to do 10 gallons in a go is maybe 30 minutes tops for double the beer.Definately worth it plus if you brew with a buddy it's 5-gallons each.

I'll look at the differential between gear for a 5 gallon batch vs 10. Good points all across.
 
Look here for a kettle. This is the bargain bin. Good prices.
http://spikebrewing.com/collections/bargain-cave

I am a BIAB brewer so I recommend. Minimal equipment smaller initial investment.

If you decide to go the BIAB route, here's the bag. http://biabbags.webs.com/

I've been brewing for about a year and a half and I still bottle. It's not bad but I would prefer to have a keg set up. It's eventually in my plans.

As for fermenters, I use both glass and buckets. I prefer glass but the drawback is weight. Buckets you can get from your local bakery for free. The ones I have most times you will need to duck tape the lid to the bucket as they do not have a tight seal like a bucket you would get from the LHBS.

Good luck!
 
Are you more interested in just making good beer... Or are you into the idea of developing recipes and experimenting with how all the little changes in temperature, pH, etc add up?

If the former, you can do well with coolers and a nice kettle. If you're already a cooking geek, maybe just making good beer isn't enough. Maybe you want to make really specific beers, and get to know what every grain and hop does in the glass. If so, then fancier gear that helps you nail temperatures without hassle will provide easy repeatability, giving you more time to develop recipes.

After 1 year of extract I moved to AG in coolers. After 2 years of that, I am moving up to a more automated electric system, for the reasons above. I'm also just buying it outright, because I want to spend my time brewing, not thinking about parts.

You sound like you've done your homework and I think you are making a good decision starting with AG and kegging.
 
Are you more interested in just making good beer... Or are you into the idea of developing recipes and experimenting with how all the little changes in temperature, pH, etc add up?

If the former, you can do well with coolers and a nice kettle. If you're already a cooking geek, maybe just making good beer isn't enough. Maybe you want to make really specific beers, and get to know what every grain and hop does in the glass. If so, then fancier gear that helps you nail temperatures without hassle will provide easy repeatability, giving you more time to develop recipes.

After 1 year of extract I moved to AG in coolers. After 2 years of that, I am moving up to a more automated electric system, for the reasons above. I'm also just buying it outright, because I want to spend my time brewing, not thinking about parts.

You sound like you've done your homework and I think you are making a good decision starting with AG and kegging.

I have to be careful with the hobbies is start because I will geek out, it's just in my nature. I need to read into the mashing process a but more using a kettle with heat vs a non heated cooler. Seems there would be a potential for scorching and I'm sure proper methodology greatly reduces that potential. Back to the books haha!
 
I'm the same way. You may want some fancier gear after a while, but you'll also be learning a ton with a typical coolers/kettle rig. Definitely get that little fridge wired up for temperature control though!
 
Oh, duh! What books do you have? Joy of Homebrew? How to Brew? Brewing Classic Styles, maybe? I think most of How to Brew is online somewhere. Joy of Homebrew is pretty good, when I started out I read a lot of that, and reread it plenty, and then (after I got more comfortable brewing all-grain) I realized I was going back and reading style descriptions a lot, so I decided I would get Brewing Classic Styles, which is pretty basic with an emphasis on the process of how to brew each style, with extract recipes for most, mini-mash recipes for the brews that need them, and substitutions you can make to convert a recipe to all-grain.

The interwebs have some great info on brewing, but sometimes a good intro to brewing book will really help. I know it was really helpful for figuring out brewing jargon, although Charlie P's definition of "lauter" confused me a bit. To this day I still don't use that word if I can help it, I usually just mash and sparge and figure that lautering was performed at some point along the way.
 
How to brew is where I've started. Had an amazon gift card so I just downloaded it. It's been amazing.
 
Start with a pretty bare bones set-up (fermenter, strainer bag, big-ass pot) since you don't want to blow a lot of money and then end up not enjoying brewing. Start small then build if you like it.
 
I have to be careful with the hobbies is start because I will geek out, it's just in my nature. I need to read into the mashing process a but more using a kettle with heat vs a non heated cooler. Seems there would be a potential for scorching and I'm sure proper methodology greatly reduces that potential. Back to the books haha!

RIMS types can scorch wort
HERMS are a bit slower/complicated
Those are the 2 wort recirculating types.
Non-circulation using a cooler works just fine.
I used an orange `home-depot` cooler and it held temp to 1-F per hour.
Buy a cooler and a washer hose (you remove the guts and just use the stainless steel braid) with a valve and the fittings to make your mash tun.
An aluminium boil kettle can be had for cheap.
Your boil kettle will double as your hot liqour tank but you will need a smaller kettle to collect your 1rst runnings as your sparge water is heating up. A propane burner can be had for about $50 and you can make gumbo with it as well. The drawback is that it limits you to outdoor brewing (rain = ruined brewday) and running out of propane during brewday is an asspain.

Kegging.... go to a welding supply shop they have everything minus the kegs,hoses,fittings.
You will need a CO2 tank. Once again, go big.
a regulator.
I suggest getting a 2 or 3 way manifold.
You will like the ability to carb up a keg whilst still serving one on tap.

IMHO it's better to get more than what you need ATM if you know you're going to `geek out` as you call it vs buying the minimum and then outgrowing it and then having to re-buy everything a step bigger a time or two.
 
RIMS types can scorch wort
HERMS are a bit slower/complicated
Those are the 2 wort recirculating types.
Non-circulation using a cooler works just fine.
I used an orange `home-depot` cooler and it held temp to 1-F per hour.
Buy a cooler and a washer hose (you remove the guts and just use the stainless steel braid) with a valve and the fittings to make your mash tun.
An aluminium boil kettle can be had for cheap.
Your boil kettle will double as your hot liqour tank but you will need a smaller kettle to collect your 1rst runnings as your sparge water is heating up. A propane burner can be had for about $50 and you can make gumbo with it as well. The drawback is that it limits you to outdoor brewing (rain = ruined brewday) and running out of propane during brewday is an asspain.

Kegging.... go to a welding supply shop they have everything minus the kegs,hoses,fittings.
You will need a CO2 tank. Once again, go big.
a regulator.
I suggest getting a 2 or 3 way manifold.
You will like the ability to carb up a keg whilst still serving one on tap.

IMHO it's better to get more than what you need ATM if you know you're going to `geek out` as you call it vs buying the minimum and then outgrowing it and then having to re-buy everything a step bigger a time or two.
good to know! :tank:
 
As to pre assembled kits or piecing together - it depends. For equipment, if you really know what you need and what you don't you can part out your own kit cheaper than a retailers equipment kit.

I started slowly because of the $$ factor. I bought an equipment kit that most closely fit what I thought I needed. There are a few items in it that I rarely use. But for the most part it was a great deal. I have gone from stove top extract to partial mash to all grain. I added some prefab stuff and have done some DIY projects.

As to the type of brewing. I am one that does not like BIAB. If I made a good rig to handle the heavy, hot, sticky, messy bag of spent grain then maybe. But since I started with a gravity 3 tier rig I much prefer brewing on it.

In the process of upgrading I have a gallon Better Bottle, originally for secondary fermentation, now rarely used for smaller batches. I started with a 20 qt aluminum stock pot. Originally to cook lobsters. Now used for smaller BIAB and extract batches with top up. And cooking stews etc in quantities for freezing. All the bigger items bet used at times but a few smaller items are on the back of the shelf collecting dust. Old thermometers, One step cleaner, turkey fryer pot - too tall for indoors, not big enough for full batch outside.
 
No one has mentioned the first and most important part.. you have a mini fridge .. get a temp controller. They are cheap these days and is by far the best thing you can get once you have a pot (which is obvious).

Get a pot preferably stainless and at least larger than 10 gallons. you can always add things to it later on down the road (more ports, an element, a temp sensor etc).

Get a bag and just BIAB to try it out.. you can always add more equipment to suite your needs later but thats the minimum..

I will brew old school sometimes just a pot a bag and a propane burner. Heat my strike temp, then toss in my bag, add grain.. stir, cover with a sleeping bag, wait an hour, then boil as normal, chill, and put in my TEMP controlled fermentation vessel.

Most times i brew with a fully controlled EBIAB, and sometimes I will do 3 vessel, but that stuff will come to you as you brew and decide what you like to do and what makes sense.
 
No one has mentioned the first and most important part.. you have a mini fridge .. get a temp controller. They are cheap these days and is by far the best thing you can get once you have a pot (which is obvious).

Get a pot preferably stainless and at least larger than 10 gallons. you can always add things to it later on down the road (more ports, an element, a temp sensor etc).

Get a bag and just BIAB to try it out.. you can always add more equipment to suite your needs later but thats the minimum..

I will brew old school sometimes just a pot a bag and a propane burner. Heat my strike temp, then toss in my bag, add grain.. stir, cover with a sleeping bag, wait an hour, then boil as normal, chill, and put in my TEMP controlled fermentation vessel.

Most times i brew with a fully controlled EBIAB, and sometimes I will do 3 vessel, but that stuff will come to you as you brew and decide what you like to do and what makes sense.

Thanks for the advice! I really think I'm going to go traight to a 10g setup and i dont know if i want to deal with a BIAB that large. Seems the bag and grains could prove to be a bit too much to do on my own.



I guess since im a real member now, I should go browse the discounts we get.

Cheers!
 
Thanks for the advice! I really think I'm going to go traight to a 10g setup and i dont know if i want to deal with a BIAB that large. Seems the bag and grains could prove to be a bit too much to do on my own.



I guess since im a real member now, I should go browse the discounts we get.

Cheers!

More power to you, if that's what you want to do, but IMO I'd learn how to brew with 5 gal or less. 10 gal is a lot of brew to dump if something goes bad. Equipment needs to be bigger, which costs more, and ingredients are doubled, which costs more. And you're not fitting 10 gal of wort into a mini fridge. I know some here would say go straight to AG, but I'd even recommend doing a few batches with extract, just to see whats involved with that side of brewing before doing AG. My philosophy in learning how to brew was to start small, read a lot, figure out what I was doing, read some more, then slowly go bigger.
 
More power to you, if that's what you want to do, but IMO I'd learn how to brew with 5 gal or less. 10 gal is a lot of brew to dump if something goes bad. Equipment needs to be bigger, which costs more, and ingredients are doubled, which costs more. And you're not fitting 10 gal of wort into a mini fridge. I know some here would say go straight to AG, but I'd even recommend doing a few batches with extract, just to see whats involved with that side of brewing before doing AG. My philosophy in learning how to brew was to start small, read a lot, figure out what I was doing, read some more, then slowly go bigger.

Apologies, I didn't articulate my thought well haha. I plan on purchasing a 10 gallon kettle and building/acquiring a mash tun that is capable of 5 gallon batches. I plan to start with extract and then move up once I'm comfortable. 10 gallon kettle in an attempt to mitigate boil overs.
 
More power to you, if that's what you want to do, but IMO I'd learn how to brew with 5 gal or less. 10 gal is a lot of brew to dump if something goes bad. Equipment needs to be bigger, which costs more, and ingredients are doubled, which costs more. And you're not fitting 10 gal of wort into a mini fridge. I know some here would say go straight to AG, but I'd even recommend doing a few batches with extract, just to see whats involved with that side of brewing before doing AG. My philosophy in learning how to brew was to start small, read a lot, figure out what I was doing, read some more, then slowly go bigger.

Apologies, I didn't articulate my thought well haha. I plan on purchasing a 10 gallon kettle and building/acquiring a mash tun that is capable of 5 gallon batches. I plan to start with extract and then move up once I'm comfortable. 10 gallon kettle in an attempt to mitigate boil overs.
 
Just come over today and I can show you how easy it is to do full volume 5 gallon batches using BIAB and a 42 quart kettle. I'll show you all you are asking about from buying bulk grain, building a grinder, building a kegerator, building a fermentation temp controller, kegging, bottling....and there will be cold beer. :) I live west of you in Saint Vincent.
 
Apologies, I didn't articulate my thought well haha. I plan on purchasing a 10 gallon kettle and building/acquiring a mash tun that is capable of 5 gallon batches. I plan to start with extract and then move up once I'm comfortable. 10 gallon kettle in an attempt to mitigate boil overs.

Ok, that makes more sense. Yes, go with a 10 gallon minimum.
 
Didn't read all the answers as some were long. However I highly recommend a spike 10 gallon brewing kettle. Probably the single best piece of equipment I own. Get a good fryer that puts out a lot of btu's. I use two 10 gallon coolers for a HLT and Mashtun. I also highly recommend a wort chiller. I use a pond pump and a cooler full of ice water and bleed off a few gallons of hot water for cleaning than recirculate the water to save water. Here in CA were always in a drought. This is a picture of my wort chiller recirculating View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1474333290.753130.jpg
 
Didn't read all the answers as some were long. However I highly recommend a spike 10 gallon brewing kettle. Probably the single best piece of equipment I own. Get a good fryer that puts out a lot of btu's. I use two 10 gallon coolers for a HLT and Mashtun. I also highly recommend a wort chiller. I use a pond pump and a cooler full of ice water and bleed off a few gallons of hot water for cleaning than recirculate the water to save water. Here in CA were always in a drought. This is a picture of my wort chiller recirculating View attachment 370658

That looks just like my set up. Got the Spike brewing kettle, which I'd also recommend, and the pond pump in a cooler with ice water for the chiller.
 

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Think of brewing and Kegging separately.

There have been a few of these "money don't matter" threads lately, as well as on that asked if homebrewing was slowing down. Still a market, I guess.
 
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