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Latest rebuild, from gravity to single tier.
 
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Latest rebuild, from gravity to single tier.

Even though it's OK to use copper piping for propane, it shouldn't be exposed like that right in front where you'll be wirking. All it takes is one drop of something onto the pipe to bend the soft copper or even cause a pin hole leak at one of the solder joints. I've seen it happen with water lines and spring a leak. If the copper was covered and protected in some way, it may be OK but the way it's exposed right in front, I would opt for black pipe. This is just my opinion.
 
This is my first rig that i have built so far. I wanted to do it right the first time and so i went with a 2 tier option so i only need 1 pump, the Mash tun is gravity fed down to the boil kettle. I also went ahead and made the top tier detachable if i ever decide to turn it into a single tier, 3 burner, 2 pump HERMS set up. (the frame underneath the decking is already prepped for a third burner. all i would have to do is add the flashing for heat protection) My next step (after staining and sealing it) is going to be installing all my HERMS components, then rigging up a mash tun agitator. Let me know what you think.

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I like it, however, I have some concerns. First, as was mentioned, charring. You do have some shielding, but you may find that it's not enough. Keep an eye on it, and keep either a fire extinguisher or charged water hose near by. I have a wood stand, and had to add shielding to prevent charring. Second, it appears that your burners are only supported by four bolts. What size batches are you planning on? Maybe they'll be ok for a five gallon, but I'd be very afraid to be near that with 10 gallons on it. The bolts could soften when they get hot, and having 100+ pounds pushing on them could cause them to fail. That won't be pretty if you have 10+ gallons of boiling wort splashing all over you.
 
Appreciate the feedback guys.
First of all, I know the pump is upside down, I was going to flip my head before testing it out.

In regards to the charring concern, I might go back and install flashing that covers the entire height of of the 2x6 and install some fireplace insulation between the wood and flashing. You think that would suffice?

And about the bolts holding my burners in place, they are 4 3/4 carriage bolts. I only do 5 gallon batches right now so I think I should alright. I stood on them after I got them installed and they held fine. I'm 6'4 215lbs so I think they should be able to hold up just fine for 5 gallon runs. When I do decide to start brewing 10 gallon batches, I will probably go back and add some more support just to make sure I don't take a nice surprise boiling wort bath.

Thanks for the feedback guys! I really appreciate it! :mug:
 
Maybe I'm risk averse, but for two of the four carriage bolts to fail I would think they would need to get extremely hot, if this were to happen, the burner frame would also be at risk of failing, which is typically not a concern. Also guessing that flashing alone would provide adequate heat protection.
 
wilserbrewer, my concern with the bolts is that there would be a lot of lateral force, and when they get hot, they'll soften. Maybe they won't get hot enough, and maybe the lateral force won't be enough to break them. Skooby is apparently a big guy, and it held his weight when cold, so I'm sure they would hold five gallons of wort in a kettle when they're hot. I just wanted to make sure that he thought of that before something catastrophic happens.

Scooby, just keep an eye on the wood around the burners when you're brewing. The flashing you have might be enough, but keep an eye on it anyway. It took mine a while to start charing, and then I added the heat shielding. You've already got it, so it may take longer.
 
Well here we go..
I made a three tier setup with weldless keggles. I loved it. Because, well.. I made it... What can I say.
When I was living with my brother it was an awesome setup. :tank: Once he moved out however... It became was too much for one person to manage. :drunk:The regulator was low pressure and well it took forever to boil a 10 gal batch. So… I sold the old set up for a nice profit. :ban: Turned around and purchased 3 Spike Brewing 10 gal. kettles, and Chugger pump, and because I work in construction I managed to get the steel strut for free. So all I had to buy out of my own pocket were some casters to make the stand mobile, a high-pressure regulator and burners. And WA-BAM!!! :ban: Instantly took 2hrs off brew day. Love it. For real this time. Not just proud that I could build something.

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It's been a while since I last posted here about my "compact" 5 gallon brew rig and now I'm back to post my new 10 Gallon "compact" brew rig. My beer was going fast from friends and family wanting some and my 5 gallon batches disappearing.

Here is my new electric rig. Two 20 gallon custom kettles from Spike brewing and one custom built bottom draining fully insulated mash-tun that I designed and built from a old keg (I have a thread on here on the build process).

The panel is attached to a TV wall mount allowing me to swing it out when the rig is in use and swings closed when not in use to save room in my basement kitchen.

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How about some details on the sweet wood-clad mash tun? I'm contemplating making one and looking to see how others do it. Thanks.
 
I feel like you're working against natural laws of gravity there for purposes of initially priming the pump head. Any particular reason it should be pointed down instead?
 
The primary reason why the manufacturer of that pump - as well as it's primary competitor - recommend the input side be below the output side - is to avoid trapping air inside the pump head.

If you go back and look at every single brew structure using either brand of mag-pump you'll note they all have the input side either at 6 o'clock or 9 (as viewed from the pump head), per the respective manufacturer recommendations...

Cheers!
 
I feel like you're working against natural laws of gravity there for purposes of initially priming the pump head. Any particular reason it should be pointed down instead?

I know it might be a bit counterintuitive, but you actually want gravity to work against you to keep the pump head primed. Good thing is that the pump head can be clocked by simply turning it once the 4 screws on the head are removed, so you don't need to change your mounting orientation to correct the pump head orientation.

That is a fine looking sculpture. Are the kettles mounted so there will be a gap between the burner shield and the bottom of the kettle? I can't tell from the photo. If there is not enough of a gap or a relief cut out of the shields, the burners will starve for air and blow themselves out.
 
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