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orangehero said:
I've read that using gas indoors requires significantly more ventilation than that to remove the excess heat, combustion gasses, and moisture.

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ventilation

Thanks for the link, I will check it out for sure. Having said that high CFM blowers/fans are pricy so going with what the budget allows and compensating by having the fresh air inlet and doubling up on the CO detectors. I had no issues so far even with 90min boils.
 
West_Coast_Brewer-1001x1024.jpg
 
What does everyone use for a regulator with the Bayou Classic 10" burners? The 30 PSI regulator on Amazon has mixed reviews, and a friend of mine with a Bayou Classic turkey frier has trouble with his 30 PSI regulator.
 
FredTheNuke said:
The 30 psi regulator from Amazon. I have yet to have issues with it.

Ditto. I currently use a kab4 which has the 10" burner and 30 psi reg that came with it, it rocks. For my keggle I modified the burner to raise it up a lot closer to the keggle bottom which was a huge improvement. I only go less than 50% on the gas flow and its plenty.
 
Fordzilla said:
Good enough for me! I'll order one and see how it goes.

The only trouble I've had, now that I think of it, is a couple times I couldn't get a good flame at all. I disconnected from the tank and reconnected... Voila. It has To be on there just right.
 
The only trouble I've had, now that I think of it, is a couple times I couldn't get a good flame at all. I disconnected from the tank and reconnected... Voila. It has To be on there just right.

The 30 psi regulator from Amazon has a safety. To reset it you need to disconnect from the tank. Open your tank slow to keep from tripping this safety.
 
The safety is built into the tank valve. If it senses excess flow as the valve is opened, the safety shuts off the flow. Always close all downstream valves before opening the tank valve and you're gold. A needle valve after the regulator works great for this.
 
fwiw, if an ACME nut is used with a standard propane tank, the Excess Flow Check Valve is in the ACME nut, not the tank valve. It's the spring-loaded ball inside the nut in this diagram...

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Cheers!
 
Holy jeebus, how big are those kettles?

Ahahaha! I just saw the pic and said out loud "Those are some big kettles!" and the wife heard me and asked "You're talking about boobs, right?"

I honestly didn't know how to answer her, but I went with "Yup"...

Cheers! ;)
 
Ahahaha! I just saw the pic and said out loud "Those are some big kettles!" and the wife heard me and asked "You're talking about boobs, right?"

I honestly didn't know how to answer her, but I went with "Yup"...

Cheers! ;)

You have now created a new entry for the brewer's slang dictionary.
 
It's a 1bbl system so from left to right they are 45gal, 35gal, 35gal. The the middle one is a little taller because its a bottom drain tun.
 
It does look very nice, but I find that tall narrow kettles like that take longer to boil and you can end up scorching the wart on the bottom before the rest boils. Just my own experience.
 
It's a 1bbl system so from left to right they are 45gal, 35gal, 35gal. The the middle one is a little taller because its a bottom drain tun.

How is the heating efficiency with the burners as low as they are (they seem fairly far from the bottom of the kettles) or do the hurricane type jet burners need that much distance? I have my Banjo BG-14's about 8 inches from the bottom of the kettles using propane.
 
The burner for the HLT does a good job, the burner for the BK is getting moved up since the kettle has a dished bottom and skirting that raises it up a little higher. The mfg recomendation is 12"-14" of space, they do throw and impressive flame.
 
image-3581518222.jpg




Sorry for the cluttered background, I think you guys can figure the system out.

Low pressure LP
HLT w/HERMS coil heated with PID controlled honeywell gas valve
BK is manually operated
MLT is NOT heated, HERMS coil maintains proper mash temps
Two Chugger pumps
A bunch of cam lock fittings
 
View attachment 142722




Sorry for the cluttered background, I think you guys can figure the system out.

Low pressure LP
HLT w/HERMS coil heated with PID controlled honeywell gas valve
BK is manually operated
MLT is NOT heated, HERMS coil maintains proper mash temps
Two Chugger pumps
A bunch of cam lock fittings

Nice, I'm just finishing my strut stand. How does it work with the 10" Banjos that far from your keggles? I had a KAB4 and modified it to raise the burner closer to the keggles and it worked much better. Here's my burner mounts now, have them juts a few inches from the keggle bottom. Haven't tried it yet but will probably test the whole system tomorrow with just water.
 

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    62.7 KB · Views: 1,870
View attachment 142722




Sorry for the cluttered background, I think you guys can figure the system out.

Low pressure LP
HLT w/HERMS coil heated with PID controlled honeywell gas valve
BK is manually operated
MLT is NOT heated, HERMS coil maintains proper mash temps
Two Chugger pumps
A bunch of cam lock fittings


I see brewing isn't your only hobby. Sweet rigs all the way around!
 
bd2xu said:
Nice, I'm just finishing my strut stand. How does it work with the 10" Banjos that far from your keggles? I had a KAB4 and modified it to raise the burner closer to the keggles and it worked much better. Here's my burner mounts now, have them juts a few inches from the keggle bottom. Haven't tried it yet but will probably test the whole system tomorrow with just water.

The burners did not work good at all, I think I was drunk when I placed them that low. I've raised them but have not done a test fire and boil yet. Yours seem to be the right hight, I'm sure one I get the burners positioned correctly ill have no troubles getting to temp quickly.
 
501irishred said:
I see brewing isn't your only hobby. Sweet rigs all the way around!

Thanks, I'm trying to get down to just one hobby, between cars, hovercraft, and beer brewing I'm spread a bit thin, oh and I have an old Coke machine that I'm working one also.
 
Bsomogyi-


Do you have any flow issues with the 90 degree turn into the pump? Many people suggest it causes issues. Do you restrict the flow on the outflow? I would prefer your setup.

Thanks! Looks great!!! A+

So I far I have....

I finally got a full water run under my belt and the pumps worked great in this configuration. I open the returns to the kettles then prime by opening the motorized valve. It bubbles all the air out prior to turning on the pump. Works great and didn't have any priming issues. Happy building...
 

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