Show us your Kegerator

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day_trippr

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For heavy duty platforms inside my brew fridges I used 3/4" plywood. Cut to pick up the original shelving supports molded into the liners on my two smaller 17cf fridges, with added center and/or front supports as needed. Ironically that wouldn't work on the 22cf fridge (food compartment is actually shorter!) so I had to add supports on the sides, back, and down the middle. I don't ferment in the 22 so no reptile bulb heater nor fan.

I've had as many as 5 full kegs on the two smaller 17cf fridges and 6 full kegs on the 22cf unit.

fridge1_platform_sm.jpg


fridge2_platform_sm.jpg


fridge3_platform_sm.jpg


Cheers!
 

day_trippr

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Jeeze, that's all just left-over pieces of raw plywood from various projects :)
Didn't even bother to treat it with anything...

Cheers!
 

DuncB

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Following up to Uslackr and Neobrew and concerns about airspace etc. We have a similar freezer to the one Uslackr converted, I had lined it up as a keezer convert but wife decided food storage. Though I do have some room for my hops so some result there. Another fridge now purposed as kegerator . Picture will follow of that at some stage.
Some fridges and freezers have their Condensers on the back ( that dusty black grille ) this tended to be the old fridge way and also for commercial fridges and freezers. Keep this clean if you have one improves efficiency.
Modern fridges and freezers tend to build the condensers into the walls of the fridge or freezer, this keeps it all neat and tidy. But the condenser needs airflow to help it work. Insulating it with wood or improving your fridge insulation on the outside reduces the ability of the condenser to work and the other components will have to work harder and use more energy.
So drilling those holes over the grill is helping to keep the pump/ compressor cool but little else, the wood is actually holding heat in towards your freezer.

Have attached a couple of photos showing the condenser array taken with my FLIR camera for our freezer, and also for the side of my ferment fridge.
The areas that are glowing are also warmer to the touch.
Consequently better to have your insulation inside the freezer, but that " wood " spoil the look.

Also of note is that if you aren't putting your taps in the door ie side taps you have to be very careful to not hit these condenser pipes as that will finish your fridge or freezer.

Obviously your keezer works and looks good , but you may be using a lot more energy and shorten its' life.
flir_20210316T103718.jpgIMG_20210316_103757.jpgflir_20210316T103742.jpgIMG_20210316_103801.jpgflir_20210316T105952.jpg
 

AnttiLeh

Brewing for sh*t and giggles
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What the heck is that? A giant dorm fridge?

Pictures of the inside might yield some more helpful advice.

Given what looks to be a fairly small footprint I'd suggest you bite the bullet and drill your CO2 through to the outside.
Heres a picture of the insides. 165cm inside hight and 50cm width, deep around 45cm.
 

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DuncB

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AnttilLeh I like the vertical kegerator. You've got room in there for at least six kegs I would think ( based on my kegerator dimensions. Very imposing and anyway I'm not sure what a dorm fridge is, had beds in my dorm not fridges.
 

Brich

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Pipes? Are you referring to the liquid lines? They are 10 feet I coiled up and stuck between keg and front of freezer. Not sure how to run them for best cooling? The Co2 lines I cut at 4,3, and 2 foot lengths.
 

day_trippr

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I'm guessing the comment regarded the apparent diameter of the beer lines.
However, from this distance, they look like 7/16" OD solid PVC lines - eg: Bevlex 200 3/16" ID tubing - pretty much the old-school industry standard beverage tubing...

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Brich

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Ohhhh yes, LHBS recommended
I am about 3 weeks out from actually trying my first beer through it to see what my next set of problems are gonna be. Im hoping will be just fine.
 
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