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Just put the final touches on this beauty to be sold at our school's fundraiser gala. More pics on this thread.

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Well, Malawi recently went from having 2 functioning draft taps in the country, to 3! I upgraded my 2 tap kegerator to a 3 tap keezer. Easily holds 6 corny kegs on the floor so I can expand it down the road if needed, and still has room for the CO2 inside. For the time being, only sticking with 3 taps and leaving room for cold crashing / conditioning, and storing other beer. Still have some tidying up to do obviously, but happy with the result. Staining the wood facing is in the plans, but the local hardware store seemed to be out, and they had no clue when they were getting more in.

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Biggest score was getting some free offcuts of some insulated metal wall panels to build the collar with. Following the "no-glue" style, I used camper seal tape around the freezer so the collar sits on top and can be easily removed.

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That looks like a rather tight space for man handling kegs. Is it as close as it looks?
It is pretty tight, but the way i have it set up is all my kegs are accessible through the closer door. i figured for the little bit of pain to load and unload, it was worth how it worked out everywhere else. Only doing 1/6 barrel kegs too so it's not that big of a deal.
 
question for anyone out there who epoxied their tops.

I am in the early stages of my build, and I'm keen to epoxy if I can. However, I want to inset my drip tray, and make it removable for cleaning etc. essentially leaving a rectangiler hole where it would be once removed.

Isthere a way I can do this? My understanding is that epoxy tends to adhere to most surfaces. I had though about a 3/4" high timber surround and then epoxy, giving the drip tray a border of sorts.

The second is how do I drill through epoxy, I assume with larger diameter holes it will crack?
 
question for anyone out there who epoxied their tops.

I am in the early stages of my build, and I'm keen to epoxy if I can. However, I want to inset my drip tray, and make it removable for cleaning etc. essentially leaving a rectangiler hole where it would be once removed.

Isthere a way I can do this? My understanding is that epoxy tends to adhere to most surfaces. I had though about a 3/4" high timber surround and then epoxy, giving the drip tray a border of sorts.

The second is how do I drill through epoxy, I assume with larger diameter holes it will crack?

Epoxy is workable. It is frequently used in wood turning. I would imagine there are many different formulations. Some might be more brittle.

I have used it to make pen blanks for turning. In those you put a 2-5" long hole down the center of a 3/4" piece. I don't think cracking is a problem with those. I have used a product called Alumilite.

Assuming you can find a product you like, you could either block out the hole with foam or something, or route out the hole with a router.
 
I used ply for the top, cut a drip tray sized hole in it. Another layer of ply underneath (I think just a thin one). Make a surround. Make a dam around the hole with tape hole and pour epoxy (Feast and Watson from bunnings).
https://www.bunnings.co.nz/feast-watson-1m-glass-finish_p01520387

Mine sits a little proud of the top so I should really pour some more to make it flush.

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The front trimmed out.
I had to cut holes for the drain and the main freezer controller as well
Had 44mm and 82mm hole saws which I borrowed and worked pretty well I think. The big holesaws tend to rip the timber to shreds which is a shame but I can work with that.

The left side to go. Then the final pieces of trim to go on before I make a start on the top.

Looks like I’m going to have some left over timber for the coffin top as well which will be good.
 
So my squadron had their annual redneck themed Christmas party couple weeks ago and I was asked to bring some of my beer.

Since this needed to be portable I had to get a little creative.

I picked up a red bull cooler from Craigslist for $15 and converted it into a little roll around portable kegerator. Everyone liked it and the keg kicked in less than an hour.
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I am almost embarrassed to show mine, with so many really impressive kegerators on display here. But here it is.

Mr Tiki standing guard. In front of the door is a high traffic area so I stuck it on the side.
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Room for two cornies and some yeast, and CO2
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Freezer section for mugs, glasses, growlers, and hops
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That is some seriously impressive woodwork. NICE corners. The whole setup looks great. How is the handpump hooked up?
 
Question: Anyone own an Arctic King 4.9 kegerator? If so, will it fit a 6.5, 7 gallon SS basic round fermenter inside? My wife bought me one but I was thinking maybe trading it in for a larger 5.4 digital. I will keep it if a fermenter will fit inside. Don't want to unbox it not knowing. I'd like to keep it that way wife doesn't think I'm ungrateful..just want to be able to use it as a fermentation chamber too. Thank you!
 
Kegerator newbie question: is it ok to clean and sanitize the kegs and lines weeks in advance? Or should I wait till I'm ready to transfer? I still need to brew some new batches!! Finally got all the stainless steel parts to replace all the chrome in my Arctic King. Have all the lines, disconnects, a 5 gal ball lock keg with a 3 gal keg arriving tomorrow. Thanks
 
Clean, sure. The sooner the better with kicked kegs, easier to clean before everything dries hard inside.
But if you're going to do a Star San purge of the keg right before filling you can probably skip the sanitizer...

Cheers!
 
Clean, sure. The sooner the better with kicked kegs, easier to clean before everything dries hard inside.
But if you're going to do a Star San purge of the keg right before filling you can probably skip the sanitizer...

Cheers!
The kegs are brand new from Northern Brewer as are all the lines. I have not even unboxed the Arctic King kegerator because I wanted to have SS replacement parts for the tower and taps which are chrome on the Arctic King kegerator. So ok to clean in advance but sanitize with starsan just before kegging?
 
The kegs are brand new from Northern Brewer as are all the lines. I have not even unboxed the Arctic King kegerator because I wanted to have SS replacement parts for the tower and taps which are chrome on the Arctic King kegerator. So ok to clean in advance but sanitize with starsan just before kegging?
Also, I can't find any books dedicated to homebrew kegging! Only YouTube videos which is fine but nice to have diagrams on hand. I've been bottling for 15 years this kegging is all new to me. Any recommendations? Thanks!!
 
What kind of "diagrams" would be helpful?
HBT is loaded to the rafters with kegging and kegerator info, just waiting to be perused.

But here are two urls to keep handy as you'll use them often: our favorite carbonation table, and the only beer line length calculator worth using.

Wrt your new kegs, definitely wash them thoroughly to remove any manufacturing residues and consider applying a film of "keg lube" to all of the O-rings...

Cheers!
Yep bought the keg lube. Thanks again for your input!
 
Also, I can't find any books dedicated to homebrew kegging! Only YouTube videos which is fine but nice to have diagrams on hand. I've been bottling for 15 years this kegging is all new to me. Any recommendations? Thanks!!

I haven't found much in writing either, but heard a few things on Brulosophy podcasts that I've incorporated that seem to work. Here is pretty much everything I know about kegging:

1) After cleaning, and also checking all of the connections, fill the keg with sanitizing solution, seal it and leave it for a few minutes, including a few minutes upside-down.
2) Connect CO2, and run the liquid line into a fermentor or something else that wants to be sanitized (so's not to waste the solution).
3) Turn on the CO2, and blow out the sanitizer until gas instead of liquid comes out of the liquid line. You can use low pressure if you want to go light on your CO2 usage and don't mind it taking a while.
4) Remove the liquid line and let the CO2 pressure build a little bit in the keg.

This leaves you with a sanitized, oxygen-free keg. When I have a batch ready to keg, I'll connect the outlet of the fermentor to the liquid in on the keg, and run a line from the keg's CO2 connection to the top of the fermentor. Then, let the CO2 pressure in the keg push the beer down the liquid line into the keg. This allows for an oxygen-free transfer.

Sorry if this is too far OT... I was actually reading this thread because I'm getting ready to build a new kegerator...
 
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