Should I use a secondary fermentor?

[medley55]

I brewed a partial mash Sierra Nevade Pale Ale from Midwest Supplies on 12/14, OG 1.068, fermented in a 6.5 gallon bucket with WYEAST 1056 at 70 degrees. Active bubbling for three days. Have not taken a FG because I'm in limbo on what to do next.

My question is should I move it to a secondary fermenter and try dry hopping or can I open primary fermenter and dry hop or skip the dry hop all together? I only have a 6.5 glass carboy and I'm concerned about the additional headspace since I'll probably only pull 4.5 gallons of the primary fermenter.

FYI - this is only my third batch, I'm green with envy.

I'd appreciate your help!

 

[ss4ivan]

You will get quite a few different answers to this question. Some people move to a secondary, some people dont. There is a chance for infections or aerating the wort if you move to secondary. Personally I have never had problems with either. I like to brew every other week so I transfer to secondary after two weeks then dry hop for 1-2 weeks depending on the beer. If I didnt need the primary for more beer I would just skip the secondary and dry hop in primary. Its mostly personal preference on whether you want to put into secondary. I would wait until the 28th before dry hop.

 

[241]

It seems like this board (and homebrewers in general) is pretty split when it comes to using a secondary. I personally do not use one as it adds extra cleaning (which I don't want to do) extra time (which I do not have) and the opportunity for infection/oxidation (which I don't want).

That being said, I dry hop right in the primary carboy. No issues with this approach after 3 years of brewing. So naturally I vote in favor of no secondary. I'm sure whatever you decide will be the right decision for you.

Good luck!

 

[ram5ey]

I don't. I prefer less equipment and fewer transfers. Still have made killer beers with or without dryhops.

 

[runkelia]

My question is should I move it to a secondary fermenter and try dry hopping or can I open primary fermenter and dry hop or skip the dry hop all together? I only have a 6.5 glass carboy and I'm concerned about the additional headspace since I'll probably only pull 4.5 gallons of the primary fermenter.



I'd appreciate your help!

I don't do a secondary, just add dry hops in primary a week before bottling.

 

[Sippin37]

Dry hop for 5 days, cold crash in a fridge or outside for 2 days to knock all the hops and other pellicles out of suspension, then bottle.

 

[Jayhem]

1. It needs at least 14 days in primary before even considering secondary! It's not even close to being done after 3 days, even if the active part of fermentation is slowed.

2. There is no need to secondary for dry hopping. The ONLY reason for secondary is for aging and clearing; typically used for lagers and beers that are to be aged on a flavor enhancer like oak chips, vanilla, spices, etc.

I brew IPA's and Pale Ales with dry hop about every 2-3 months. I always primary ferment for 14-21 days at 65F then dry hop for 7 days. Then siphon directly from the fermenter to bottling bucket. If you dry hop with loose pellets or leaf hops just secure a sanitized paint strainer or grain bag over the tip of your siphon to prevent sucking up hop pieces. Good to go!

Have fun!

 

[mrgrimm101]

Definitely dry hop. I don't use secondary, I just open the primary and carefully add the pellets so I don't splash. If it has only been 3 days, don't take a gravity reading. The less you open the primary, the less chance for infection. IMO you should wait at least 5-7 days before you take a FG reading reading..then wait another 2 days and take another reading. If the readings are the same, and it's within the range of your recipe kit, then you have hit your final gravity and it's ready to proceed. I would wait for that to dry hop. Dry hop for 7 days and then bottle. A lot of people cold crash for a couple days before bottling, but I never have and it's always turned out nice and clear.

 

[Gavin C]

This is certainly a topic that continues to crop up

I reviewed a lot of the threads espousing the virtues of both approaches and came down in the "no secondary" camp. I have not seen any drawbacks thus far but am far from experienced. 10 batches so far. First year brewing. To be honest I really like not having to interfere with the fermenting wort till I keg.

I'm lazy I suppose but do not see the science to back up secondary use on the small scales I utilize (5 gallon batches)

Less work, less cleaning, less chance of oxidation/infection are the big reasons not to transfer.

I crash cool, dry hop and add gelatin as needed in the primary. I don't package the beer till it's done.

 

[medley55]

Great feedback, thanks! I brewed on 12/14, more than 3 days ago. Gravity reading just now was 1.012.

My plan after your feedback;

1. Wait another 6 days, take a final gravity reading.
2. Dry hop for 5 days in primary fermenter.

Next question, I'm going to bottle carbonate. When I siphon the beer out of the fermentor it looks like I might have only 4 gallons and I won't be sure until after it is siphoned. My understanding is primer sugar should be calculated base upon the amount beer and added to the bottle bucket as the beer is being siphoned. Since I won't know how much beer I'll have until it's in the bottling bucket how should I add the primer sugar to the bottlng bucket? I've read it should be added to the bottling bucket before the beer so it mixes itself.

Again thank you for your help!

 

[mrgrimm101]

Yes the solution needs to be added to the priming bucket before you transfer. Mix your sugar with some water and let it heat up to get thoroughly mixed, then add this to the bottom of the bucket, and then coil your hose in the bucket and transfer your beer. This will help it all mix in well.

Were it me, I would figure for 4 gallons worth and transfer. If you end up having 4.5 gallons, you will probably still be ok..I can't imagine that a half gallon off will make a difference..it might be slightly undercarbed but I would doubt it. You don't want to do too much and have less beer than you planned sugar for..overcarbed beers can be dangerous. If you figure for 4 gallons and you have a full 5 gallons, I would mix up a little more priming sugar and add it to the beer and gently stir it in.

 

[flars]

I dry hop in the primary. Timing depends upon when the fermentation is complete, depends on OG, and CO2 is not present in the hydrometer sample. CO2 coming out of solution can scrub the hop aroma from the beer. Timing is about 16 to 21 days after active fermentation had begun.

 

[Jayhem]

Next question, I'm going to bottle carbonate. When I siphon the beer out of the fermentor it looks like I might have only 4 gallons and I won't be sure until after it is siphoned. My understanding is primer sugar should be calculated base upon the amount beer and added to the bottle bucket as the beer is being siphoned. Since I won't know how much beer I'll have until it's in the bottling bucket how should I add the primer sugar to the bottlng bucket? I've read it should be added to the bottling bucket before the beer so it mixes itself.

Again thank you for your help!

This is a handy calculator to keep on hand for figuring out how much priming sugar based on the style of beer, volume and temp you are bottling.

http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html

Note: most beer kits come with 5oz of corn sugar for priming. Don't use all of that or you will overcarb only 4 gallons!

 

[flars]

Did you mark your bottling bucket in quarts and gallons? Factory markings are not accurate.
In a marked bucket you can rack first and then make up the correct priming sugar solution based on actual volume. You will need to very gently stir the priming sugar solution into the beer to make sure of an even mix.