Sestos PID Temperature Controllers (D1S-VR-220)

[mattd2]

Sorry,I can't really read it but keep in mind that the SETOS PID only has one contact but two alarms.
Both hi and lo alarm trip the same contact.

Yeah, can you upload a bigger pic?

 

[JohnnyGunn]

Not sure what I was drinking there...here it is a little larger!

I'm pretty sure I'm good with the reset button (top NO contactor) and the alarm/buzzer wiring, but I'm not sure about the wiring of the "timer alarm switch", and whether or not I should be going to the 7 post or the 11 post. Also, do I need to supply power from the 10 to the 8? I picked that little piece up from another post somewhere.

Thanks.

 

[mredge73]

I am a bit lost. I am trying to figure out what you are trying to do with this circuit.
Can you summarize the objective?

AND:
7 & 8 on the timer need to swap.
(The timer has 2 relays, 11&12 are for the second relay)

Also the wire on #5 should be on #4.

 

[JohnnyGunn]

Basically what you are seeing is just the wiring "diagram" for the switches hooked up to the timer (B2E) and the PIDs (D1S-VR). The 3 selector switches under the PIDs and the timer will act as alarm on/off switches, telling the alarm that I want it to go off when either the timer reaches zero or that a certain temp is reached on either the HLT PID or the BK PID.

The NO contactor at the top of the diagram is just a reset pushbutton to shut off the alarm/buzzer.

I'm trying to do this, with Sestos parts: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=12

Does that clear it up?

 

[mredge73]

The reset on the timer will only reset the timer; so it will only shut off the buzzer if the timer tripped it.

Other than that, the previous post should clear up the wiring diagram.

 

[JohnnyGunn]

Yeah, sorry about that. The pushbutton will only serve to reset the timer.

Awesome thanks for clearing that up for me! And thanks for the help!

 

[mattd2]

Hey guys, need a bit of advice. Trying to reduce the control time down - it seems to be set around 10 seconds and I can not get it down (want to be at about 3 seconds). Can anyone give me a heads up on what to change? (I thought I was changing the right setting but obviuosly I was wrong!)

 

[stlbeer]

Wouldn't it be the 'Ctl' parameter?

I'm picking that parm from here: http://sestos-hk.com/english/download/D1S-EN.pdf

 

[mattd2]

Wouldn't it be the 'Ctl' parameter?

I'm picking that parm from here: http://sestos-hk.com/english/download/D1S-EN.pdf

I thought so too but I changed it and there was no change to the cycle time. I'll try again in case I mess something up (it is known to happen... frequently)

 

[stlbeer]

Hmm. When you say you're trying to reduce the control down time I interpreted that to mean the length of time associated with the control cycle. Did I get that right?

 

[mattd2]

Hmm. When you say you're trying to reduce the control down time I interpreted that to mean the length of time associated with the control cycle. Did I get that right?

Yes you are correct. the total cycle time as in at 70% duty it would be on 7 seconds and of 3 seconds for a total cycle time of 10 seconds.
Again it might be me... and don't confuse CtrL with Ctl like I did

 

[mrbean]

Temperature Controller STC-1000: Do not order from mixtea on ebay. I ordered and paid for mine four months ago, many messages back and forth and now nothing, no product and no refund and no more messages. I got ripped off, be warned.

 

[mredge73]

My transaction with her was very smooth; I even got a custom order.
This was over a year ago though; seems things have changed.

 

[mattd2]

Temperature Controller STC-1000: Do not order from mixtea on ebay. I ordered and paid for mine four months ago, many messages back and forth and now nothing, no product and no refund and no more messages. I got ripped off, be warned.

Did you raise a dispute case with ebay? and did you pay with paypal? both of these should of covered you to not get ripped off.

 

[mrbean]

Did you raise a dispute case with ebay? and did you pay with paypal? both of these should of covered you to not get ripped off.

Mixtea offers free shipping, great but the catch is it is so slow (or in my case non-existent) that the order ends up falling outside of buyer protection policy of both ebay and paypal. Mixtea knows this obviously and used it to his/her advantage.

 

[mrbean]

Did you raise a dispute case with ebay? and did you pay with paypal? both of these should of covered you to not get ripped off.

Yes, buyer protection has a time limit, and so does paypal. I lose.

 

[mattd2]

Yes, buyer protection has a time limit, and so does paypal. I lose.

Point taken - I actually have a dispute open at the moment that looks to be taking this route (a $6 micro SD card!). For future purchases I would suggest as soon as it goes over the typical longest shipping time you contact the seller by raising a dispute asking politely that it has not shown up and if you can confirm it has been sent - usually this give an answer of yes it has been sent please wait xxx more days to ensure it is not slow post, but at least the dipuste is open and will only be closed if you don't keep ontop of it or they refund/it turns up.

Good point though to make us aware of some of the more dodgy trickery some ebay sellers use to escape the paypal/ebay protection

Although some other sellers are extreamly good - one just refunded me for a DS18B20 sensor that didn't show up (yet) even after I said I was happy to wait - they just said if it does show up in the end can I please pay them for it (which I will - or just purchase another one from them)

 

[AmyM]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I'm building a small brew fridge and have also bought the D1S-VR-220 as it looked better than some of the cheaper ones based on online reviews.

One thing I'm a bit skeptical of is the operating voltage range and how well they really last at higher voltages. I lost an (admittedly cheap) temp controller recently after only a couple of uses. It wasn't a PID, just one of the cheap STCs.

Does anyone in the UK/Australia/NZ know how these PIDs hold up at 230-240V? We live semi-rurally and seem to have a few voltage fluctuations and a typical measurement at the power point is 236V. It was expensive enough that I'm wondering if I should factor in some overvoltage protection for the PID or power it from a 110V transformer. I would do it anyway as a matter of course, but since I'm being cheap I'm also using the temp control box I'm building for hatching eggs, where nuisance tripping would be disastrous - so I want adequate circuit protection to build a safe and robust unit without overcomplicating the matter.