Sestos PID Temperature Controllers (D1S-VR-220)

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They are water resistant, not water proof or water tight.
You will need a thermowell that can be mounted inside a kettle with a o-ring and nut similar to the weldless valves:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/THERMOWELL-...ltDomain_0&hash=item51812d1e6e#ht_2088wt_1064
+
http://www.bargainfittings.com/inde...duct&keyword=less&category_id=0&product_id=98

OR just buy it as a kit:
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=183

This will allow you to slide the sensor into the thermowell where the sensor is protected.



The alternative is to buy one of these liquid tight sensors:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=20_3



FYI
You will need two SSRs for a 3500W system.
I recommend you get a heat sink for each as well.
And the PT-100 sensor that they sell is super accurate, but the leads are very short.
Recommend you buy them from Mixtea, you can email her what you want and she will reply quickly with a custom kit with a huge discount. I now own three units and they work great.
http://stores.ebay.ca/MixTea

Seconded for dealing with Mixtea. Mine turned up in the post today, now I just have to finish work and get home to unwrap it!

mredge are you sure that thermowell will fit the 1/4 UNC thread on the thermocouple? looks too big to me.
TheMiller, I am going through the same issue on this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/how-install-cheap-1-4-20-tc-probe-296468/ looks like easiers way is to buy the water-tight probes, my issue is I want to mount it in the side of a 3/4" socket which the small 1/4 UNC thread would be perfect for (if it was sealed:D)

The other thing is you don't need a second SSR for the other hot leg but it does make it safer, PID off = no power at all to the element. With only 1 SSR you must always remember that the element is still live but you just haven't connected the circuit - Do not let that connection be through yourself!
 
The threaded piece is not wielded on.
It comes loose very easily as you will find out shortly; the probe itself does fit into the thermowell easily. I chose to go with the thermowell so I can easily remove the probe during cleaning.

I retracted the need for 2 ssrs on my first post; I realize that there is not a need to achieve functionality but I still believe there is a need for safety.
 
The threaded piece is not wielded on.
It comes loose very easily as you will find out shortly; the probe itself does fit into the thermowell easily. I chose to go with the thermowell so I can easily remove the probe during cleaning.

I retracted the need for 2 ssrs on my first post; I realize that there is not a need to achieve functionality but I still believe there is a need for safety.

Ah, I see what you mean. Take the "bolt" off and just use the probe only, makes sense ;)
The 2 SSR comment was a valid comment, just want to note that it is for safety not functionality.
 
It looks like she has waterproof PT100 sensors:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/3-Wires-PT10...ltDomain_0&hash=item4aaebc1e8c#ht_3388wt_1037

Based on looking at these, you would still need to use a thermowell to attach it to the kettle, however, they could probably also thrown into the middle of the mash to get a temperature reading.

I will email her and ask for:
- PID
- 25 Amp SSR + heatsync
- 3 Wires PT100 sensor waterproof

I plan on using this for a BIAB setup - is there anything else I should be asking for?
 
It would probably work. I would buy a spare sensor; notice it is only wrapped up with heat shrink.

*a second SSR and heatsink will be much safer*
 
I purchased one of the Sestos controllers and wired according to the model provided by Auber but my PID doesn't come on at all. Could it simply be that I am missing something in the wiring or do I have a defective piece?
 
I purchased one of the Sestos controllers and wired according to the model provided by Auber but my PID doesn't come on at all. Could it simply be that I am missing something in the wiring or do I have a defective piece?

Just in case... I'd look at the pinout from the Sestos manual/information sheet. I can't tell if you tried to wire up everything exactly according to the Auber manual.

If you did, you'll definitely have a problem. While the two units are functionally quite similar, they are not entirely identical; for one thing, the pins are totally different -- power in is pins 1 and 2 on the Auber, and 9 and 10 on the Sestos. (And that's not just me looking at one of them upside down -- the other pins don't line up, either.)


Has anyone had any luck with the auto-tuning of these units? Or manual tuning, even? I can't quite tease apart how the different terms feed into the final output, and my first attempt at auto-tuning led to some really out there results.

For anyone who's spent more than a couple hours playing with one of these: Can anyone line the variables up (M50, P, t) in meaningful ways to what would be the corresponding inputs on the Auber unit? i.e. Proportional constant (P), integral (I) and derivative (d) time, damping constant (SouF). The rest seems obvious, but those ones are important, and I can't figure out how to dial them in.

Really, I'd like to operate in pure proportional mode (at least, to begin)... but I can't figure out how to do that simple thing.
 
Ah ha. I was looking at a different instruction manual -- for the 2362, not the 2342 or 2352. Not sure the exact difference, but here it is:
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-2362 instruction 1.6.pdf
(Don't let this manual confuse this issue. The one posted by mattd2 is the useful one -- this one doesn't line up as well.)

Anyway, the manual you linked is a near-exact fit with the Sestos. The factory set points, most importantly, are exactly the same. And it even explains the baffling parts and clarifies the incorrect units from the Sestos manual. Phew.

My procedure the first time autotuning was to plug in my heating vessel* with cold water and let it come up to temp. It finished quickly, the numbers came up really weird (unfortunately, I didn't write them down), and it seemed to oscillate and bounce up to about 3-4°C above the set point.

I ran a second autotune today, after turning the filter settings up to even out the floaty Pt100, and starting with hot water (well above the set point). The tuning ran for much longer (I think 3 cycles up and down around the set point), and settled in to hold the temperature within about .5°C. A huge improvement, and, at this point, probably about within the margin of error.

The settings, for my 1850W roaster, heating ~4 gallons of water: M50 = 183; P = 5800; t = 261; Ctl = 60.

It seems a bit overdamped (stalls out while coming up to temperature), and I can't figure why the control period is so long when there's a lovely responsive SSR and a simple heating element to control. But those variables can be tweaked tomorrow, when I can test it again from cold.

Thanks for all the great information, everyone!

* This isn't actually for brewing, but for a homemade sous vide/cheese vat (similar to this thing). It seems like a good deal of the variables would be similar, though, as the idea is holding a large body of high-specific-heat liquid at temperature.
 
Hey all, I just wanted to continue on this thread. I purchased the Sestos package with a 25A SSR about two weeks ago for my HLT project. I’m designing it with a 1500w element since I don’t have access to 220. The package did not include a heat sink (ordered it last night) which is the start of my problems. I only need to run this system in the “On/Off” control mode since it’s just a HLT. But, I think that the SSR is overheating causing it to stick in the “on” position after the system has been running for a while and reaches its set point. The “out” light will shut off on the controller as will the light on the SSR, but current does not stop. Same problem as described in this thread.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/how-hot-should-ssr-run-sign-doa-one-290938/
So here are my thoughts on a temporary or permanent solution and some of the findings:
I was hoping that I could set the system up to run at lower time/percentage like 70%. I’m hoping this will keep the amount of heat generated down to an acceptable range. This is available in the manual mode which seems to work pretty well, but will not shut off when I reach the set point.
• CtrL = 0 (On/Off); run = 0 (Manual) – Controller cannot be set to run at a value less than 100% (Full on all the time). Is there a method of adjusting the % that I’m missing?
• CtrL = 3 (PID); run = 0 (Manual) – I am able to set the system to run @ 70%, but the controller does not shut off when reaching the set value. (Not the SSR problem above) Is this by design since it is in the manual mode?
I’m afraid I am missing something since Davide may be suggesting (on a previous page) that it is possible to run in the On/Off mode at a lower percentage.
Any help?
 
After the SSR cools down does it start operating as designed?
Bummer that you burnt up your SSR on the first run; a heat sink should help.
Temp solution would be to mount it to something heavy and made of metal to help spread out the heat if it isn't quite dead yet. You could also mount it on the wall of a large steel enclosure box.

Manual mode is just that, Manual!
It will not automatically shut off, if you set it to 70% it will run at 70%.
Why not run it as a PID all the time, default will run it at 100% until it gets up to temp. Then it will taper off and attempt to hold temp.
 
I don't think it's completely shot yet. It seems to work as designed once it's cooled and I run a simple lamp through the system with the sensor next to the light bulb. I wasn't able to get through the auto adjustment since it apparently overheated the SSR. ("Hey, why's my water boiling?") Hopefully the heat sink will let me get through to the end.
Question: Is the heat sink standard equipment for this application? I didn't realize it would run that hot. And would a 40A be better than my 25?
 
I use mine to maintain temperature; so a heatsink is not standard equipment for my use.
My SSR is warm to the touch but it won't burn me.

For your application, I think it would be standard equipment since you are going to be running it for a long period of time (20min+) to get it up to temp. Computer chips start to break down at about 75C-85C; a SSR is made up of the same material.

The higher amp rating may work since the unit itself will be larger and better capable of spreading out the heat. Keep in mind that it will burn up too if it gets up there in the same temperature range.
 
...I wasn't able to get through the auto adjustment since it apparently overheated the SSR. ("Hey, why's my water boiling?") Hopefully the heat sink will let me get through to the end...

As far as I know the autotune will boil you water, it is basically getting an idea on how your system is setup so it will heat till boiling, let it cool and do some other stuff.
There are also 2 parameters (supossably) in the sestos menu, oPL & oPH.
oPL - don't worry about this one it is for setting a minimum level to alway output even if the controller wants to be lower.
oPH - This can be set at the specific % that you want the max duty cycle to be set at. i.e. if you set it at 70% the PID will function as normal but will only turn the element on a mximum of 70%. This is used for if you have an oversized heating element and want to control it as if it was a smaller one - i.e. set it to 50% and a 5000w element now becomes a maximum of 2500w.

for the control modes the (very) basic descriptions are:

Manual - The controller will turn the element on/off for the specified duty cycle (70% will mean 70% of the time it is on 30% of the time it is off). baiscallty the same as turning your electric stove to "2".

On/Off - When the temp is below the setpoint the element will be on, When the temp is above the setpoint the element will be off.

PID - Adjust the % power depending on how close to the set point the current temp is. kind of like the controller is adjusting the manual mode to keep it at a certain temp.
 
The autotune did not boil my water.
I set it up exactly like I would use it on brew day using 65C as my setpoint.
For me this meant circulating 3 gallons of water through my RIMS tube pre-heated to 65C.
Took over an hour as the temp cycled between 60 and 70 until it dialed it in to my preset resolution of .5C I am pleased overall with the process.

I use the same unit on my Fermentation chamber and my Keg Fridge; set to cool mode. Autotuned in a similar manner; took about 2 hours each.
 
The autotune did not boil my water.
I set it up exactly like I would use it on brew day using 65C as my setpoint.
For me this meant circulating 3 gallons of water through my RIMS tube pre-heated to 65C.
Took over an hour as the temp cycled between 60 and 70 until it dialed it in to my preset resolution of .5C I am pleased overall with the process.

I use the same unit on my Fermentation chamber and my Keg Fridge; set to cool mode. Autotuned in a similar manner; took about 2 hours each.

Ignore me then :D, I still have to get my A into G and setup mine. Last bits and pieces going together now (well after my daughters Bday on Saturday!). Last thing is to get a 3/4" street elbow drilled and taped to accomodate the modified 1/4" unc probe I got free with the Sestos.
 
Thanks guys. The water is getting less muddy. Ultimately on my boil comment, the "out" light on the controller and the SSR were both off which has to = bad. I installed my sight glass last night. I'll calibrate (graduate?) My HLT volume tonight and wait for the heat sink to arrive.
 
I've used my Sestos a few times now and it's been great (for manual control only so far until I get my temp probe fitted!). The only thing I can fault is the damn instructions, I couldn't really make sense of what they were saying to get it in to manual mode. I eventually read the Auber instructions and got there thought :D
 
Hey guys...old thread I know, but I'm looking for help with Sestos components (B2E timer and D1S-VR PIDs). I was wondering if you could tell me if this wiring diagram is ok. The 3 alarm switches will tell the PIDs or the Timer to go to alarm or not, and the NO contactor will reset the alarm/buzzer once it goes. If you need more info, don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for any and all help.

sestoswiring.png


sestoswiring.jpg
 
Sorry,I can't really read it but keep in mind that the SETOS PID only has one contact but two alarms.
Both hi and lo alarm trip the same contact.
 
Sorry,I can't really read it but keep in mind that the SETOS PID only has one contact but two alarms.
Both hi and lo alarm trip the same contact.

Yeah, can you upload a bigger pic?
 
Not sure what I was drinking there...here it is a little larger! :drunk:

I'm pretty sure I'm good with the reset button (top NO contactor) and the alarm/buzzer wiring, but I'm not sure about the wiring of the "timer alarm switch", and whether or not I should be going to the 7 post or the 11 post. Also, do I need to supply power from the 10 to the 8? I picked that little piece up from another post somewhere.:confused:

sestoswiring.png


Thanks.
 
I am a bit lost. I am trying to figure out what you are trying to do with this circuit.
Can you summarize the objective?

AND:
7 & 8 on the timer need to swap.
(The timer has 2 relays, 11&12 are for the second relay)

Also the wire on #5 should be on #4.
 
Basically what you are seeing is just the wiring "diagram" for the switches hooked up to the timer (B2E) and the PIDs (D1S-VR). The 3 selector switches under the PIDs and the timer will act as alarm on/off switches, telling the alarm that I want it to go off when either the timer reaches zero or that a certain temp is reached on either the HLT PID or the BK PID.

The NO contactor at the top of the diagram is just a reset pushbutton to shut off the alarm/buzzer.

I'm trying to do this, with Sestos parts: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=12

Does that clear it up?
 
The reset on the timer will only reset the timer; so it will only shut off the buzzer if the timer tripped it.

Other than that, the previous post should clear up the wiring diagram.
 
Hey guys, need a bit of advice. Trying to reduce the control time down - it seems to be set around 10 seconds and I can not get it down (want to be at about 3 seconds). Can anyone give me a heads up on what to change? (I thought I was changing the right setting but obviuosly I was wrong!)
 
Hmm. When you say you're trying to reduce the control down time I interpreted that to mean the length of time associated with the control cycle. Did I get that right?
 
Hmm. When you say you're trying to reduce the control down time I interpreted that to mean the length of time associated with the control cycle. Did I get that right?

Yes you are correct. the total cycle time as in at 70% duty it would be on 7 seconds and of 3 seconds for a total cycle time of 10 seconds.
Again it might be me... and don't confuse CtrL with Ctl like I did :D
 
Temperature Controller STC-1000: Do not order from mixtea on ebay. I ordered and paid for mine four months ago, many messages back and forth and now nothing, no product and no refund and no more messages. I got ripped off, be warned.
 
My transaction with her was very smooth; I even got a custom order.
This was over a year ago though; seems things have changed.
 
Temperature Controller STC-1000: Do not order from mixtea on ebay. I ordered and paid for mine four months ago, many messages back and forth and now nothing, no product and no refund and no more messages. I got ripped off, be warned.

Did you raise a dispute case with ebay? and did you pay with paypal? both of these should of covered you to not get ripped off.
 
Did you raise a dispute case with ebay? and did you pay with paypal? both of these should of covered you to not get ripped off.

Mixtea offers free shipping, great but the catch is it is so slow (or in my case non-existent) that the order ends up falling outside of buyer protection policy of both ebay and paypal. Mixtea knows this obviously and used it to his/her advantage.
 
Did you raise a dispute case with ebay? and did you pay with paypal? both of these should of covered you to not get ripped off.

Yes, buyer protection has a time limit, and so does paypal. I lose.
 
Yes, buyer protection has a time limit, and so does paypal. I lose.

Point taken - I actually have a dispute open at the moment that looks to be taking this route (a $6 micro SD card!). For future purchases I would suggest as soon as it goes over the typical longest shipping time you contact the seller by raising a dispute asking politely that it has not shown up and if you can confirm it has been sent - usually this give an answer of yes it has been sent please wait xxx more days to ensure it is not slow post, but at least the dipuste is open and will only be closed if you don't keep ontop of it or they refund/it turns up.

Good point though to make us aware of some of the more dodgy trickery some ebay sellers use to escape the paypal/ebay protection :)

Although some other sellers are extreamly good - one just refunded me for a DS18B20 sensor that didn't show up (yet) even after I said I was happy to wait - they just said if it does show up in the end can I please pay them for it (which I will - or just purchase another one from them):D
 
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I'm building a small brew fridge and have also bought the D1S-VR-220 as it looked better than some of the cheaper ones based on online reviews.

One thing I'm a bit skeptical of is the operating voltage range and how well they really last at higher voltages. I lost an (admittedly cheap) temp controller recently after only a couple of uses. It wasn't a PID, just one of the cheap STCs.

Does anyone in the UK/Australia/NZ know how these PIDs hold up at 230-240V? We live semi-rurally and seem to have a few voltage fluctuations and a typical measurement at the power point is 236V. It was expensive enough that I'm wondering if I should factor in some overvoltage protection for the PID or power it from a 110V transformer. I would do it anyway as a matter of course, but since I'm being cheap I'm also using the temp control box I'm building for hatching eggs, where nuisance tripping would be disastrous - so I want adequate circuit protection to build a safe and robust unit without overcomplicating the matter.
 
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