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Anybody got any suggestions for the lupulin powder i got. I got mosaic and simcoe. Ive heard mosaic will overpower most other hops. Also i think mosaic is a descendant of simcoe. Maybe i should use one of them in one ipa and another in a different ipa? Or do you think i should use one for the whirlpool and one for dry hopping the same beer?
 
Anybody got any suggestions for the lupulin powder i got. I got mosaic and simcoe. Ive heard mosaic will overpower most other hops. Also i think mosaic is a descendant of simcoe. Maybe i should use one of them in one ipa and another in a different ipa? Or do you think i should use one for the whirlpool and one for dry hopping the same beer?

Me, personally, I like to keep the same hops in WP and DH. Mosaic and simcoe work well together, BUT, I have not used the powder for either of them (yet). I, again personally, like to use mosaic with fruitier hops, e.g., citra. Hell, citra/mosaic is probably what I use in my NEIPAs more often than not.
 
Me, personally, I like to keep the same hops in WP and DH. Mosaic and simcoe work well together, BUT, I have not used the powder for either of them (yet). I, again personally, like to use mosaic with fruitier hops, e.g., citra. Hell, citra/mosaic is probably what I use in my NEIPAs more often than not.


Well i formulated a recipe

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1505849797.366947.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1505849825.056287.jpg

What do you think? The higher acid numbers are the powder additions. Not sure about the yeast. I have a pack of s04 at the house which is a english strain but i know you use wlp007 for your neipas, which is also an english strain right? So i thought it could work

Or i could just scratch it and do an all mosaic ipa and a separate all simcoe ipa?

Right now I have a pack of S04, an oz of simcoe powder, an oz of mosaic powder, a lb of corn sugar and 2 lbs light dme so i still have some stuff to buy for that recipe or i could just change it
 
Well i formulated a recipe

View attachment 414699
View attachment 414700

What do you think? The higher acid numbers are the powder additions. Not sure about the yeast. I have a pack of s04 at the house which is a english strain but i know you use wlp007 for your neipas, which is also an english strain right? So i thought it could work

Close, I use WLP008 more often than not on my NEIPAs. It's billed as an East Coast Ale yeast. But regardless, I think you'd be fine using 04 here.

Or i could just scratch it and do an all mosaic ipa and a separate all simcoe ipa?
As much as I absolutely freaking love mosaic, I don't know that I love it by itself nearly as much.

Right now I have a pack of S04, an oz of simcoe powder, an oz of mosaic powder, a lb of corn sugar and 2 lbs light dme so i still have some stuff to buy for that recipe or i could just change it
All good brother. You're heading down the right path. Have you considered adding some wheat in the grain bill? I haven't done an extract NEIPA, but way back when I did extract beers, wheat DME was a staple in most of my IPAs. Adding some wheat could give you some more haze and round out/soften the mouthfeel.

Also, I would move the 15 and 5 minute hops to flameout or whirlpool. This is just personal preference, but for all my hoppy beers I do either a 60 minute or FWH, and everything else at flameout or later. I've found much better aroma and hop flavor this way and adding them in the boil just seemed like a waste to me. Again, that's personal preference, do with it as you wish. I'd also take that 12 day simcoe dry hop and move it to whirlpool with the mosaic, i.e., mosaic and simcoe in the whirlpool. Let me know what you end up doing. Cheers brother!
 
Thanks! So you would do the hop additions like this?

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1505871079.981966.jpg

Thats all the powder in the whirlpool it would be a 30 min boil to save time which is why im doing extract anyway. I dont get much time these days so its gonna be extract or dont brew lol

Also i dont particularly like wheat. I know this because the palmetto huger st is a wheat chinook citra ipa and i left some bottles in my pantry for a while one time and the wheat fell out. When i poured it in a glass it was clearer and i liked it much better. I just want a light colored hop bomb lol! Dont really care if its hazy or not. The s04 makes it finish a little sweeter than if i used s05 i guess itll work
 
Thanks! So you would do the hop additions like this?

View attachment 414747

Thats all the powder in the whirlpool it would be a 30 min boil to save time which is why im doing extract anyway. I dont get much time these days so its gonna be extract or dont brew lol

Also i dont particularly like wheat. I know this because the palmetto huger st is a wheat chinook citra ipa and i left some bottles in my pantry for a while one time and the wheat fell out. When i poured it in a glass it was clearer and i liked it much better. I just want a light colored hop bomb lol! Dont really care if its hazy or not. The s04 makes it finish a little sweeter than if i used s05 i guess itll work
Yeah brother, I like that hop schedule much better. Don't think I'd change a thing. Let us know how it turns out!
 
Ok fellas (and gals!), I think some advice/guidance.

My brother has planted a seed in my brew brain to do a sour dreamsicle beer. Sort of a sour orange cream ale. I'm not concerned with the souring aspect of it as I'll sour with lacto then ferment out with sacc yeast, i.e., kettle sour (for the most part).

I need some guidance with lactose and vanilla.

First and foremost, I'll probably do my house NEIPA grist, or a variation thereof, to get that hazy, creamy, softer mouthfeel:
2-Row (75%)
Flaked Oats (19%)
White Wheat (6%)

I've never worked with lactose before, so that's one area I need guidance on. I don't want it overpoweringly sweet. Moreover, I know I will have to kill (boil) the lactobacillus prior to adding the lactose because (as I recently discovered), lactobacillus can ferment lactose (unlike sacc). Who's used lactose before? What beer? And how much? Currently I'm thinking of only adding around 7 oz. of lactose at 10 minutes left in the boil. Any thoughts on this dosage rate?

Next, I need advice on the vanilla. I've never used vanilla either. But I'm considering doing a vodka tincture with one (1) vanilla bean scraped/chopped and added to about 2 oz. vodka. Then add the tincture at kegging (similar to Morrey's marg gose tinctures). Another question I have is with regard to processing the vanilla bean. When I say "scraped/chopped," does that mean I scrape out the insides and discard them and chop the remaining bean and just use that? Or do I want to keep the insides I scrape out? Any advice would be awesome.

Feel free to toss out anything else I may be missing or not thinking about. Thanks, y'all.
 
Yeah brother, I like that hop schedule much better. Don't think I'd change a thing. Let us know how it turns out!



Thanks. So when you whirlpool, since i dont have a pump i just chill to 180 then stop it and add the powder additions then stir the whirlpool for 10 minutes right? Then finish chilling. How do you do it?
I wish i could help with your sour though i dont know much about them. I believe you want the insides that you scrape out the bean. I could be wrong though
 
Thanks. So when you whirlpool, since i dont have a pump i just chill to 180 then stop it and add the powder additions then stir the whirlpool for 10 minutes right? Then finish chilling. How do you do it?
I wish i could help with your sour though i dont know much about them. I believe you want the insides that you scrape out the bean. I could be wrong though
No worries, brother. I don't have a pump right now either.

I do my whirlpools a little cooler, usually around 170 (to keep from isomerizing all those oils which would lead to more bitterness). Once it's at or around 170, I toss in the WP hops and give it a good stir to get a vortex going, then I leave it. Periodically I'll give it another big stir to get another vortex going, but I don't stir it the whole time. I do my whirlpools for at least 20 minutes, 30 if I'm not getting impatient. Ergo, I definitely don't stir it the whole time. Sure, I could probably get more/better aroma if I stirred it the whole time. But to hell with all that!
 
No worries, brother. I don't have a pump right now either.

I do my whirlpools a little cooler, usually around 170 (to keep from isomerizing all those oils which would lead to more bitterness). Once it's at or around 170, I toss in the WP hops and give it a good stir to get a vortex going, then I leave it. Periodically I'll give it another big stir to get another vortex going, but I don't stir it the whole time. I do my whirlpools for at least 20 minutes, 30 if I'm not getting impatient. Ergo, I definitely don't stir it the whole time. Sure, I could probably get more/better aroma if I stirred it the whole time. But to hell with all that!

That's almost exactly how I whirlpool. I may start it around 180-190° but stir vigorously for a few seconds, repeating 5-6 times over 20 or so minutes.

I also know nothing about sours so I got nothing there. Sorry...
 
So when is the next event at DIY? Is it next saturday? The 30th
 
Calling all dudes with pumps.

I've found a deal for some pumps. One is a chugger with a poly head, like new, $50. The other is a Little Giant, mag drive, poly head, like new, $50.

Sounds pretty good to me, but I know dick all about pumps. Any thoughts on which one I should go for? I read one thing where someone was comparing the LG pumps to chugger, and seemed to like the LG better because it didn't lose prime like chugger does sometime. Any thoughts? Any issue with these having poly heads?
 
So I would go with a chugger pump because if your not satisfied with the poly head the. You can swap to stainless head. I'm pretty sure they are both magnetic drive. If you rebuild a head then you know the most important thing is cleaning the main bearing that can get stuck over time with high sugar batches. Pumps are sweet and will change the way you brew beer. If I could suggest one thing...get two pumps, your system and brew day will thank you later for that.
 
So I would go with a chugger pump because if your not satisfied with the poly head the. You can swap to stainless head. I'm pretty sure they are both magnetic drive. If you rebuild a head then you know the most important thing is cleaning the main bearing that can get stuck over time with high sugar batches. Pumps are sweet and will change the way you brew beer. If I could suggest one thing...get two pumps, your system and brew day will thank you later for that.

I am definitely planning on getting two eventually. Just wanted to snag one of these while I could for $50. Good call on the head swap. That's the only thing that was keeping me from jumping on it, but I didn't realize I could just change out the heads. Thanks brother.
 
A bit of a long read but its very interesting and congrats on your growing family! Im about to have my second son next month! So I know what its like to not have time to brew. I would be very interested in helping you out if I werent so busy. Also you are in lexjngton right? If its not too personal, Im kind of curious as to what part? I live near lexington and i deliver for UPS in the heart of lexington (sunset, #6, old cherokee area)
 
Not a whole lot, sup with you?
Been battling this co-pitch sour beer that's been my most challenging beer yet! Apricot sour is shaping up to be one of my best yet. Need to get off my ass and finish the keezer though!

Hey guys, I’m hoping to see how many people are interested in this project I’m considering. Figured I’d drop it in here too. Let me know if any of you are interested in this (I already know at least one of you is!).

https://brewublog.wordpress.com/2017/10/03/where-do-we-go-from-here-collaborative-iterations/
I'm in! But you already know that as I told you on reddit (VinPeppBBQ).

A bit of a long read but its very interesting and congrats on your growing family! Im about to have my second son next month! So I know what its like to not have time to brew. I would be very interested in helping you out if I werent so busy. Also you are in lexjngton right? If its not too personal, Im kind of curious as to what part? I live near lexington and i deliver for UPS in the heart of lexington (sunset, #6, old cherokee area)
Man I wish you delivered downtown! Always thought it would be cool to have a homebrewer UPS guy. I'd give you some homebrew when you dropped off my packages!
 
Been battling this co-pitch sour beer that's been my most challenging beer yet! Apricot sour is shaping up to be one of my best yet. Need to get off my ass and finish the keezer though!





Man I wish you delivered downtown! Always thought it would be cool to have a homebrewer UPS guy. I'd give you some homebrew when you dropped off my packages!



I used to deliver downtown for about 5 years. I got to know my way around columbia at least. then i split for the west side of the river. I dont like richland county man lol. But not saying i wouldnt go back for some good ol homebrew!
 
A bit of a long read but its very interesting and congrats on your growing family! Im about to have my second son next month! So I know what its like to not have time to brew. I would be very interested in helping you out if I werent so busy. Also you are in lexjngton right? If its not too personal, Im kind of curious as to what part? I live near lexington and i deliver for UPS in the heart of lexington (sunset, #6, old cherokee area)

Thanks man. It’s a commitment, but I’m hoping to find some people who have the time and interest to do it. Those two things don’t always coincide, though.

And it sounds like I’m a bit outside your route. I’m not too far from the airport.
 
Thanks man. It’s a commitment, but I’m hoping to find some people who have the time and interest to do it. Those two things don’t always coincide, though.



And it sounds like I’m a bit outside your route. I’m not too far from the airport.



Yeah ive lived by the airport pretty much all my life lol. I sent you a PM
 
You keggers out there, I’m looking to get into it but want to be informed about what to buy. Can you point me to any resources? Or can you tell me why you went with the setup you did? And lastly, what’s the difference between the different keg types?
 
I have 2 ball lock (soda) kegs with just picnic taps on them. I like that setup i didnt have to modify my freezer or anything i just plugged it up to a temp controller. The only disadvantage is i have to open my freezer to get a draft but its a chest freezer so the cold air stays in. But the trade off is i dont have to clean any taps daily. Heres a very long and detailed video about kegs
https://youtu.be/8eVGh-y3L8w

Or since youre right down the road you could come over one day maybe and see mine
 
You keggers out there, I’m looking to get into it but want to be informed about what to buy. Can you point me to any resources? Or can you tell me why you went with the setup you did? And lastly, what’s the difference between the different keg types?
I started with a one tap kegerator I modified from a mini fridge. It served me well for the first year or so of brewing. I'm now putting the finishing touches on a 4 tap keezer in a massive chest freezer I got for dirt cheap off of Letgo.

I have about 3 or 4 ball lock kegs and 4 or 5 sankes that I just got a few months ago. I'll expand on this more later, it's quittin time gotta get outta here!
 
You keggers out there, I’m looking to get into it but want to be informed about what to buy. Can you point me to any resources? Or can you tell me why you went with the setup you did? And lastly, what’s the difference between the different keg types?
Aight, buckle up, Poops...

I'm a big DIYer. If I can build or make it for cheaper or even slightly more expensive, nine times out of ten I'm gonna make it. Ergo, I started with a mini fridge I got off CL. Dead simple. Hardest part was bending the freezer plate down and against the back wall as carefully as possible so I didn't kink/puncture the coolant line. Then I just drilled a hole in the top (after confirming no cooling lines in the top) and added a draft tower I built with black iron pipe. This is the best pic of mine I could find:

aK0HjkT.jpg


I started with a basic budget chrome faucet, despite everyone telling me to buy a Perlick from the get go. They were right. I went through one keg with the budget faucet and switched it out for a Perlick. I'm not saying it definitely has to be a Perlick, but I highly recommend a forward-sealing faucet. The budget (non-forward-sealing) faucets get insanely stuck with dried beer if you aren't pouring daily. Or even multiple times a day. Like stuck so bad I've almost broken a tap handle opening the tap. Perlicks can get pricey the more you need. But Intertap makes a forward sealing faucet that's much more affordable. I'm trying those out on my keezer I'm building now.

Next is kegs. Your options are, basically, ball lock corny, pin lock corny, or sanke. Ball locks and pin locks are essentially the exact same, they just have different liquid and gas posts and therefore each requires a different type of quick disconnect. Pin locks are cheaper than ball locks. I have all ball locks and sankes because, well, that's just what I have for my system (I use all ball lock disconnects). Sanke is a bit different because you have to have a sanke coupler. But even using a sanke keg and coupler, you can add ball or pin lock posts to the coupler and use your existing ball or pin lock lines and disconnects.

Craigslist has been one of the best avenues for me to find used kegs. Although I will admit, it's kind of hit or miss around here. I've also bought some online before. A lot of vendors will often offer pretty good deals on kegs like a 4 pack of kegs for $200 or something like that. A used pin lock might be anywhere from $25 to $35/40; a used ball lock is usually around $40 to $50. I'm not sure on the sankes because I was basically gifted 4 or 5 of them.

Then, of course, you need a CO2 tank and regulator. I got my CO2 tank used as well, I think off ebay? CO2 tank should cost around $50. Then doing tank exchanges for full tanks is around $20 or so. The price for gas varies WILDLY. But a small (5 pound?) tank will last a while. I haven't gotten a tank refill in months and months and I've been running kegs through it.

I've left a good bit out, I'm sure. Feel free to ask any questions, I'm happy to pass on what I've learned. I started kegging from the first beer I brewed because I didn't want to mess with bottling and I'd always wanted a kegerator. I've only bottled two batches since I started. Everything else has been kegged and poured or bottled off the keg.

You will LOVE kegging. I cannot stress that enough. So much more control over nuances. And you don't have to deal with bottling.
 
You will LOVE kegging. I cannot stress that enough. So much more control over nuances. And you don't have to deal with bottling.


Yes i love kegging! It saves me like 2 hours of time over bottling. Then it also carbs faster and if its not great when you carb it then add some hops to the keg or something else to give it a better flavor.
The one drawback is that you cant tell when you are empty. I told you i picked up my keg and it felt empty. I bottled 2 16 oz bottles and a 24 oz bottle after that (thinking: no way can i fill a growler) then after that ive gotten like 3 16 oz drafts and it still hasnt run dry yet. Im not sure judging it by weight was a good idea
 
Yes i love kegging! It saves me like 2 hours of time over bottling. Then it also carbs faster and if its not great when you carb it then add some hops to the keg or something else to give it a better flavor.
The one drawback is that you cant tell when you are empty. I told you i picked up my keg and it felt empty. I bottled 2 16 oz bottles and a 24 oz bottle after that (thinking: no way can i fill a growler) then after that ive gotten like 3 16 oz drafts and it still hasnt run dry yet. Im not sure judging it by weight was a good idea

I think the only way to accurately judge it by weight is to actually weigh the sucker and work backwards.

I'd like to eventually setup flow meters on my keg lines and run it to a module running raspberrypi. I've seen a lot of builds of these, but my biggest hang up is finding suitable flow meters. That seems to be the lynch pin with these systems.
 
I think you can get magnetic balls that float and roll up and down the side of the keg as a guage but i dont know how well they work
 
One other thing on the difference between pin lock and ball lock is their footprint. Generally (though not always) ball locks are slimmer and taller where pin locks are wider and shorter. They're both good options depending on your set up but for me I couldn't fit as many kegs in the freezer if I went with pin locks. Right now I could fit 8 kegs in there but I typically keep between 5-6 in there and use the rest of the room for extra refrigeration space (bottled beers, kitchen overflow when there's company, etc).

If you go the keezer route you'll need some basic tools but it really is pretty straight forward. I used this () for a resource, they really hit all the high points. One thing to look out for is your selection of wood for the collar. I stupidly picked up some boards that had a bit of a bow to them, so I had to build the collar, put a piece of plywood on top, and find every heavy object in the house to put on top to bend it down to the point that it would be flush against the freezer. Once it was straight I ran a bead of gorilla glue, put the collar back on, weighted it down again, and it was done. Aside from the plumbing all I did was put some foam insulation on the inside to up the R value of the collar (not entirely sure this was necessary).

I've been nickle and diming the thing for a few years now. I picked up the freezer for pretty cheap from best buy because it had a dent in it (bottom right corner of the picture). Older Perlicks are usually on "sale" at homebrewing.org. Like TL mentioned, if you can find kegs on craigslist they're great, but they are hit and miss. I scored some for as little as $12 each and some as high as $30, but they're not always available there. You've got some options for tanks but I opted for buying a new one and having it refilled instead of doing the exchange thing. Ultimately CO2 is CO2, you can't go wrong either way.

The only other thing I recently did that I wish I had done a long time ago was to add a CO2 line for burst carbing outside of the keezer. My tank sits outside with a single primary regulator but I recently put a Y splitter on it with a shutoff valve on each end. One end goes to the keezer, the other has a CO2 disconnect on it so I can use my tank without opening the lid. I opted for the removable threaded ends so when I want to, I can take off the disconnect to flush carboys with CO2.

If I could do it again I don't think I would spread the taps out along the front. It looks better than having them grouped (or it will when I get the final tap and bottle opener installed) but keeping the tubing organized on the inside is an absolute mess. Just something else to consider. Either way you do your taps, don't be a jag like me, have them in a straight line instead :tank:

kegerator.jpg
 
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Man i like that! I think that looks good, i didnt even notice the taps till you told on yourself. How often do you have to clean your taps? I wish i had time to do stuff like that
 
One other thing on the difference between pin lock and ball lock is their footprint. Generally (though not always) ball locks are slimmer and taller where pin locks are wider and shorter. They're both good options depending on your set up but for me I couldn't fit as many kegs in the freezer if I went with pin locks. Right now I could fit 8 kegs in there but I typically keep between 5-6 in there and use the rest of the room for extra refrigeration space (bottled beers, kitchen overflow when there's company, etc).

If you go the keezer route you'll need some basic tools but it really is pretty straight forward. I used this (Keezer Video) for a resource, they really hit all the high points. One thing to look out for is your selection of wood for the collar. I stupidly picked up some boards that had a bit of a bow to them, so I had to build the collar, put a piece of plywood on top, and find every heavy object in the house to put on top to bend it down to the point that it would be flush against the freezer. Once it was straight I ran a bead of gorilla glue, put the collar back on, weighted it down again, and it was done. Aside from the plumbing all I did was put some foam insulation on the inside to up the R value of the collar (not entirely sure this was necessary).

I've been nickle and diming the thing for a few years now. I picked up the freezer for pretty cheap from best buy because it had a dent in it (bottom right corner of the picture). Older Perlicks are usually on "sale" at homebrewing.org. Like TL mentioned, if you can find kegs on craigslist they're great, but they are hit and miss. I scored some for as little as $12 each and some as high as $30, but they're not always available there. You've got some options for tanks but I opted for buying a new one and having it refilled instead of doing the exchange thing. Ultimately CO2 is CO2, you can't go wrong either way.

The only other thing I recently did that I wish I had done a long time ago was to add a CO2 line for burst carbing outside of the keezer. My tank sits outside with a single primary regulator but I recently put a Y splitter on it with a shutoff valve on each end. One end goes to the keezer, the other has a CO2 disconnect on it so I can use my tank without opening the lid. I opted for the removable threaded ends so when I want to, I can take off the disconnect to flush carboys with CO2.

If I could do it again I don't think I would spread the taps out along the front. It looks better than having them grouped (or it will when I get the final tap and bottle opener installed) but keeping the tubing organized on the inside is an absolute mess. Just something else to consider. Either way you do your taps, don't be a jag like me, have them in a straight line instead :tank:

Looks great. Drip trays are insanely expensive for what they are. What did you use for yours? I haven't even decided if I'm going to add a drip tray to mine. But just ordered the last of the faucets and shanks for mine! Got the collar assembled, sealed, insulated, and shank holes drilled. Just need to glue it down to the freezer now.

ETA: I didn't even noticed the taps off line from each other either until you pointed it out! I am a bit OCD, I obsessed over tap placement and got them as damn close to even as possible.
 
Man i like that! I think that looks good, i didnt even notice the taps till you told on yourself. How often do you have to clean your taps? I wish i had time to do stuff like that

Me too :tank:

After I put the collar on it was really a work in progress whenever I had the time to string together to do something to it.

I'm not a great example of beer line sanitation but I usually run some oxyclean through them every...I don't know 4 batches? Usually followed by water, then starsan, then the new beer. If I don't get around to flushing a line with water after a keg kicks I'll make it a point to do it then but it's not part of my normal routine. So far I haven't had to replace a line but I'm sure I'll get there.

Looks great. Drip trays are insanely expensive for what they are. What did you use for yours? I haven't even decided if I'm going to add a drip tray to mine. But just ordered the last of the faucets and shanks for mine! Got the collar assembled, sealed, insulated, and shank holes drilled. Just need to glue it down to the freezer now.

ETA: I didn't even noticed the taps off line from each other either until you pointed it out! I am a bit OCD, I obsessed over tap placement and got them as damn close to even as possible.

Sounds like you got half of the work done already :mug:

I know what you mean about the drip tray, I thought for sure I could find one for under $20, or at least $50. I think mine was around $100 when it was all said and done (for a piece of steel! :mad:). Almost certain it wasn't worth the money.

Honestly I didn't get the right tray for the job here. The one in the picture has lips around all four sides so I'm fairly sure it's meant to be sitting on/in something rather than being butted up against the kegerator like I have it. It's supported by two brackets that are probably meant for shelving but work great for the tray. I've been collecting old hard drives over the years for the magnets inside and with enough of them on the brackets it'll hold the whole tray and a glass.

Since the first two taps are pretty close in line I'll blame the others being uneven on the existence of two plentiful beer pouring devices :mug:
 
I have 2 ball lock (soda) kegs with just picnic taps on them. I like that setup i didnt have to modify my freezer or anything i just plugged it up to a temp controller. The only disadvantage is i have to open my freezer to get a draft but its a chest freezer so the cold air stays in. But the trade off is i dont have to clean any taps daily. Heres a very long and detailed video about kegs
https://youtu.be/8eVGh-y3L8w

Or since youre right down the road you could come over one day maybe and see mine

Shaiv, I just got around to this video. Awesome resource. Thanks!
 
Looks great. Drip trays are insanely expensive for what they are. What did you use for yours? I haven't even decided if I'm going to add a drip tray to mine. But just ordered the last of the faucets and shanks for mine! Got the collar assembled, sealed, insulated, and shank holes drilled. Just need to glue it down to the freezer now.

ETA: I didn't even noticed the taps off line from each other either until you pointed it out! I am a bit OCD, I obsessed over tap placement and got them as damn close to even as possible.



Thought I’d add my 2 cents: If you haven’t already, don’t glue the collar on! Use the foam strips that are for insulating doorways/ closing the gaps between the door and door frame. I used the 3/4” wide strips and applied the adhesive side to the bottom of the collar. It gave me an airtight seal and actually adhered permanently over time. I can lift the freezer by the top and the collar won’t separate
 
Thought I’d add my 2 cents: If you haven’t already, don’t glue the collar on! Use the foam strips that are for insulating doorways/ closing the gaps between the door and door frame. I used the 3/4” wide strips and applied the adhesive side to the bottom of the collar. It gave me an airtight seal and actually adhered permanently over time. I can lift the freezer by the top and the collar won’t separate

I've been going back and forth on this. I haven't glued it down yet. Do you not ever worry about bumping it or jarring it loose? That blows my mind that it's basically adhered itself over time. Wonder how in the hell that happened? I might have to swing by and check yours out again, brother.
 
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