Sanke Fermenter Idea

[indubidable]

Hey guys first time posting.
So I found 4 sanke kegs in great condition and I am using 3 for brewing and want to use the fourth for a fermenter. I was thinking I could put a pipe coming out the bottom and plug the hole with a stopper. I could attach a simple piece of metal to it so I can pull it out when fermentation is all done. Simple, cheap, and seems like it would work in my head and make getting the beer out very easy. I do have access to welding and soldering so I plan to attach some legs to the keg. Am I just being stupid or could this work? Thanks guys!

 

[BrewBeemer]

Great idea working with a good idea nothing is wrong with this.
I would use the top but add a Tri-Clover fitting then you can pressurize during the fermentation process up to 30 psi.
Adding a bottom dump to the keg bottom then yeast and trub can be removed, syphon out of the top to your cornys or bottles. Prost.

 

[jdieter]

I ferment in sankes by cutting the top and use a 3/4" thick lexan cover with a homemade buna gasket held down by compression with a bar across the top lip of the keg. Not wanting to mess with welding or soldering and possible infection issues I drilled a hole near the keg bottom for a plastic valve and seal it with homemade buna gaskets. To handle the keg I have a small block/tackle hanging from the ceiling to get it in the fermenting fridge and also raise it high enough to fill soda kegs and bottle. I thought about using the sanke as is but was uncomfortable about not being able to see if it was clean. The hole I cut is big enough to get an arm inside the keg to clean it and see all around.

 

[maida7]

I just started fermenting in a sanke keg. I did no modifications. I simply removed the spear and put a carboy cap and airlock on the opening. Seams to be working great. Also, it fits in a standard top freezer style fridge for temp control.

 

[johntangus]

I also have a sanke 1/2 barrel that i'm thinking about fermenting in.

I was actually thinking of brewing 12-13 gallons of a munich helles and just dumping it into the sanke and finishing the whole thing in the sealed sanke. Primary fermentation and then lagering, then carbonation. If it doesn't achieve a natural carb, it could just be forced carbed after lagering. I realize that i would get several glasses of yeast in the beginning. Am I off base here? sorry about hijacking this thread.

 

[JuanMoore]

I also have a sanke 1/2 barrel that i'm thinking about fermenting in.

I was actually thinking of brewing 12-13 gallons of a munich helles and just dumping it into the sanke and finishing the whole thing in the sealed sanke. Primary fermentation and then lagering, then carbonation. If it doesn't achieve a natural carb, it could just be forced carbed after lagering. I realize that i would get several glasses of yeast in the beginning. Am I off base here? sorry about hijacking this thread.

It's a great idea but you'll want to build a spunding valve first so you can control the pressure. The amount of co2 and pressure produced is much more than you're thinking it is, enough to stall fermentation and create a dangerous situation if none of it is released. Pressurized fermentation is pretty cool, and can drastically change the flavor of the finished product. Clean lager like beers can be made at ale temps when fermented under pressure.

 

[Randar]

Great idea working with a good idea nothing is wrong with this.
I would use the top but add a Tri-Clover fitting then you can pressurize during the fermentation process up to 30 psi.
Adding a bottom dump to the keg bottom then yeast and trub can be removed, syphon out of the top to your cornys or bottles. Prost.

Yeast and trub cannot effectively be removed from the bottom of a Sanke because the slope of the concave bottom is not steep enough to funnel it to the valve/port. Neither can it effectively be removed by a dip tube or raking cane for the same reason (you end up just clearing out a small area around the tube)

Stick a carboy cap on there and you can pressurize enough to transfer (10 psi or less is safe but I hit up to 20 psi by accident). Just move from one Sanke to the next if you're worried about getting it off the yeast or trub. Cleaning isn't that bad either, especially if you have a pump to set yourself up with a cheap cleaning station/spear to spray it out with PBW/Oxy/Whatever.