Safest light bulb heating fermenter setup

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byronyasgur

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I'm on a bit of a budget for me fermentation fridge setup. I'd love to fork out the extra €30 on a heating tube but it would be handier at this point to just use the old incandescent light bulb trick - but I'm a bit afraid from a number of points of view

  • fire hazard
  • short circuit due to electrics in an environment with condensation
  • light getting into beer
  • bulb in the way and risk of broken glass
  • cleaning

But I'm probably going this route anyway regardless so I'm interested to know peoples feelings about any of the above issues and how they got around them. I know there are a number of ways of doing this and the two that I'm most interested in are the "desk lamp under a shelf" route or the lightbulb in a paint can route ... although I'm not sure I could fit a lamp under the shelf below the fermenter
 
Avoid the paint can! If on a budget, I'd go for some "pipe anti-freeze heating cable" off eBay.

thanks but had a quick look on ebay and it's not that budget - a tubular heater is cheaper - well actually around the same price

— why avoid the paint can
 
Then your'e doing it wrong; $22 gets you 5m (50w) cable (inc. shipping), which is more than enough. If you can find a cheaper tube heater, then go for that!
 
A small "personal" hot air heater. They are around 200W, and very efficient.

Or a reptile ceramic (infrared) heating "bulb." They're black transducers, don't emit light, and don't get hot enough to create a fire.

Here's an example.
 
200w is still a lot. And they have a fan that could fail/be obstructed.
Lots of surface and low power is desirable. Heating cable is cheap and probably safer.
 
200w is still a lot. And they have a fan that could fail/be obstructed.
Lots of surface and low power is desirable. Heating cable is cheap and probably safer.

Yeah, I hear you. But 200W is not crazy high. It could be easily turned into 100W.
They're supposed to be protected against overheating in case the fan fails.

Should the heating cable be wrapped around something?
 
Yeah. It's not the worst idea I've seen :)

Weaving the cable into some grating(?, sorry I don't know if that is the correct word, the sort of meshed wire shelf from the fridge or an oven), it can be placed along the wall of the fridge.
 
Then your'e doing it wrong; $22 gets you 5m (50w) cable (inc. shipping), which is more than enough. If you can find a cheaper tube heater, then go for that!

cheapest I can find ( I'm in Ireland so I want to keep it to Europe for tax/customs/shipping time reason ) - is €30 ( free shipping ) ... I can get a 40W tubular heater for €26 ... which I'll prob go with but I'm amazed there's a lot of people using lamps for heating I didn't realise it was so bad I thought I was the only person with concerns ... does nobody use one happily - or can anybody explain to me why it's a bad idea ... I mean which if any of my concerns are valid, or are all of them ... bad experiences here please.

A cheap heating pad from the drugstore.
I'm in Ireland - we have chemists/pharmacies here instead of drugstores - actually I'm confused - can't you get icecream and soft drinks at a drugstore or :p ... anyway - what is this heating pad normally used for
 
Meh. I've been using a mere 40W incandescent bulb downstream of an 80mm 12VDC fan for years.
ab_19oct2014_12.jpg
In fact that's the original bulb (it doesn't get turned on all that much tbh)...

No paint can - rather pointless, imo, when you have a fan blowing on the bulb...

Cheers!
 
A small "personal" hot air heater. They are around 200W, and very efficient.

Or a reptile ceramic (infrared) heating "bulb." They're black transducers, don't emit light, and don't get hot enough to create a fire.

Here's an example.


^^^^ This!! This heater works great! And for the price I don't think you could build something cheaper (unless you had all the parts in your house now) and so much easier and safety protected.

I built a ferm chamber a few years ago and have been using that heater and it works great.
 
cheapest I can find ( I'm in Ireland so I want to keep it to Europe for tax/customs/shipping time reason ) - is €30 ( free shipping ) ... I can get a 40W tubular heater for €26 ... which I'll prob go with but I'm amazed there's a lot of people using lamps for heating I didn't realise it was so bad I thought I was the only person with concerns ... does nobody use one happily - or can anybody explain to me why it's a bad idea ... I mean which if any of my concerns are valid, or are all of them ... bad experiences here please.

Ok, €26 sounds like a pretty good deal so, I'd go for that. However, I'm in Sweden and order stuff from eBay (from China) all the time. Just once have I had to pay tax and customs and that was on an order of > €50.

Please Explain. I have been using one with a fan for quite some time and no issues at all.
Thanks

Ok.
[rant]
First off the 'plans' circulating around for the paint can heaters are borked. Just bad design. It could be made safer by mounting the socket in the BOTTOM of the can (so heat does not rise into the socket) and mounting the entire thing on standoffs or a base to not having it sit directly on the plastic bottom of the fridge. It should obviously be grounded, use cable glands and a separate fuse appropriately sized. Fan, ok, but at least it should have venting holes.
Still, though, that is a lot of trouble to build something that still is a 'hacky' solution, and yeah, most people will probably just throw a bulb in the can and be done with it.

I've gotten quite some flak previously for criticizing the paint can heater and I hear a lot of exactly what you are saying. And I'm glad it has worked out for you. Honestly. But here's the dealio. DIY is fun and a big part of homebrewing. Wiring up your own controller, wiring you own heating elements etc. But, there is a big difference between building brewing equipment and putting a heater inside a fermentation fridge; when you brew YOU ARE THERE. If something starts pouring out smoke, you can pull the plug. Putting a heater inside an enclosed, insulated space, mostly made of plastic and and polyurethane foam, turn it on and leave for work or go to bed. That is another thing... If you start a fire (and live), I can't imagine any insurance company feeling to generous when it turns out it was because you put a heater *inside* a fridge.

So, are paint can heaters the worst? Yes and no. It probably could be made reasonably safe, but most people probably never will. It just irks me when I time and time again, see people recommending 'bad choices' to others just because it has worked well for them. Sort of "No you don't need to put on a seat belt, I've never been in an accident".

And there are better solutions, that are no more expensive. What you're looking for is lowest power that does what you need. It does not matter if it takes days to reach temperature, the yeasties certainly won't mind. 40-50W goes a long way inside a fridge.
And you want something that *can't* overheat. Large surface area. If it can get to hot to touch (like if the fan fails or becomes obstructed) it is too much power/too low surface area.

So if you can (no pun intended), simply by choosing a better heater (for the same money) or by adding 5 cent fuse, make it safer (even if it is only making a 99,99% 'safe' solution 99,999% 'safe'), why wouldn't you?

Next thing I'd usually hear is "You are paranoid, what do you expect will happen?". Use google. Electrical fires happen everyday. Murphy is a *****. Things have a way to fail in the most spectacular way.

If you've read this far, then thank you for bearing with me. You do what you want, you decide if you feel comfortable with the safety of your setup. Just know, that the next person asking for help selecting a heater for their fermentation setup, might not be thinking about what could go wrong or might not be proficient in wiring, might select a halogen light (because moar heat is moar good) or whatever.
[/rant]

TL;DR
Low power, low heat density, less manual wiring and an appropriately sized fuse makes it safer.

Cheers!
 
I use this ceramic heater. Its perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NXZ7UMA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Cheap, 170W on low setting, overheat protection, tip over protection, built in fan for circulation.

Honestly should be tested with a watt meter, thing doesn't generate much heat at all. If I were looking to heat my feet or hands I would have returned it. Heats my 7.1cu/ft chest freezer no problem at all and barely comes on much.

My thoughts.
 
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Its perfect.

No, it really isn't. It has got least 3 or 4 times the needed power draw.
You might not feel it *because* of the fan, but if the fan stops, it will get hot. Possibly it has overheating protection and if so, that is certainly a good thing.
Still though, you don't need a lot of power. And something just not getting crazy hot is still better that overheating protection.

I mean, if you are happy with it, that is fine. But, no it is not perfect.
 
I use two different heating wraps to warm my fermenters. One is Fermwrap which works well.

I also use a seedling heat mat (it's only 20 watts) wrapped around the fermenter and held in place with the fermenter lifting straps and bungee cords. I put a towel on the outside to insulate the heat mat a bit, and it warms the fermenter sufficiently. During the winter it's 45 degrees more or less in my garage. I have the fermenter in a ferm chamber (read: refrigerator) where that 20-watt mat will maintain 64 degrees for me. I control it with an Inkbird.
 
Ok.
[rant]
First off the 'plans' circulating around for the paint can heaters are borked. Just bad design. It could be made safer by mounting the socket in the BOTTOM of the can (so heat does not rise into the socket) and mounting the entire thing on standoffs or a base to not having it sit directly on the plastic bottom of the fridge. It should obviously be grounded, use cable glands and a separate fuse appropriately sized. Fan, ok, but at least it should have venting holes.
Still, though, that is a lot of trouble to build something that still is a 'hacky' solution, and yeah, most people will probably just throw a bulb in the can and be done with it.

I've gotten quite some flak previously for criticizing the paint can heater and I hear a lot of exactly what you are saying. And I'm glad it has worked out for you. Honestly. But here's the dealio. DIY is fun and a big part of homebrewing. Wiring up your own controller, wiring you own heating elements etc. But, there is a big difference between building brewing equipment and putting a heater inside a fermentation fridge; when you brew YOU ARE THERE. If something starts pouring out smoke, you can pull the plug. Putting a heater inside an enclosed, insulated space, mostly made of plastic and and polyurethane foam, turn it on and leave for work or go to bed. That is another thing... If you start a fire (and live), I can't imagine any insurance company feeling to generous when it turns out it was because you put a heater *inside* a fridge.

So, are paint can heaters the worst? Yes and no. It probably could be made reasonably safe, but most people probably never will. It just irks me when I time and time again, see people recommending 'bad choices' to others just because it has worked well for them. Sort of "No you don't need to put on a seat belt, I've never been in an accident".

And there are better solutions, that are no more expensive. What you're looking for is lowest power that does what you need. It does not matter if it takes days to reach temperature, the yeasties certainly won't mind. 40-50W goes a long way inside a fridge.
And you want something that *can't* overheat. Large surface area. If it can get to hot to touch (like if the fan fails or becomes obstructed) it is too much power/too low surface area.

So if you can (no pun intended), simply by choosing a better heater (for the same money) or by adding 5 cent fuse, make it safer (even if it is only making a 99,99% 'safe' solution 99,999% 'safe'), why wouldn't you?

Next thing I'd usually hear is "You are paranoid, what do you expect will happen?". Use google. Electrical fires happen everyday. Murphy is a *****. Things have a way to fail in the most spectacular way.

If you've read this far, then thank you for bearing with me. You do what you want, you decide if you feel comfortable with the safety of your setup. Just know, that the next person asking for help selecting a heater for their fermentation setup, might not be thinking about what could go wrong or might not be proficient in wiring, might select a halogen light (because moar heat is moar good) or whatever.
[/rant]

TL;DR
Low power, low heat density, less manual wiring and an appropriately sized fuse makes it safer.

Cheers!

tbh I think that all makes an awful lot of sense - thanks
 
Meh. I've been using a mere 40W incandescent bulb downstream of an 80mm 12VDC fan for years.
View attachment 388854
In fact that's the original bulb (it doesn't get turned on all that much tbh)...

No paint can - rather pointless, imo, when you have a fan blowing on the bulb...

Cheers!

nice setup - looks good - any concerns with the light getting through the two vent holes
 
I'd avoid the heater. I had one that kept tripping before the controller could shut it off. That means unplugging and waiting before it will come back on. And if it trips, it could be a long time without heat before I notice. I probably shouldn't mention that I removed the thermo-switch so that the controller would turn it off when it should. Suffice to say I am looking at replacing the inside door panel of the ferm chamber now. They don't work great unmodified, and they are dangerous to modify.

Since then I have gotten a reptile heater. So much easier and safer! No light and no overheating concerns.
 
what about this stuff - the one metre length is 40W; which I guess is probably enough wattage ( I have an under counter fridge ) but would it get too hot since it's only a metre lenght - they don't say how hot it gets, only that it's 40W/M ... which I think is going to be a good bit hotter than reptile cable or anti frost cable - which is around 10 W/M from what I can see, but maybe it wouldn't get so hot to be dangerous.
Does anyone want to guess - the price is very good though - €8.25 delivered

— just thinking now even if it got too hot I could fix it to a piece of sheet metal like a piece of the side of an old desktop computer case or a cookpot lid or something - to act as a heatsink- surely that would spread out the heat enough to render it safe.

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Complete-Fle...hash=item41bce49cfd:m:mrSs8UzvDU70BXJykfB94DA

$(KGrHqF,!rEFC14yLVlZBQ8wlG4e(g--60_12.JPG
 
A 'normal' household light bulb is the A19 (no I don't know this stuff... googled it). The 19 means it is 19 eights of an inch in diameter (or around 6cm). Assuming it is spherical (yeah I know, it is not, but close enough) that would mean 4*π*r² or about 115cm² surface area.
They don't list the diameter of the heating cable but i would guesstimate about 0.5cm.
That would mean a surface area of L*2*π*r or about 157cm².
So, at about the same power density as a normal 40W incandescent bulb, I would also expect it to become quite warm.
That does not mean you can't use it, same as with light bulbs, do it right and it should probably be safe enough. Using a heatsink (sheet metal et.c.) as you suggested would probably be good, and make sure you always have clearance.
And get a fuse. With 40W @ 220VAC, a 200mA fast acting fuse would probably be reasonable.
 
A 'normal' household light bulb is the A19 (no I don't know this stuff... googled it). The 19 means it is 19 eights of an inch in diameter (or around 6cm). Assuming it is spherical (yeah I know, it is not, but close enough) that would mean 4*π*r² or about 115cm² surface area.
They don't list the diameter of the heating cable but i would guesstimate about 0.5cm.
That would mean a surface area of L*2*π*r or about 157cm².
So, at about the same power density as a normal 40W incandescent bulb, I would also expect it to become quite warm.
That does not mean you can't use it, same as with light bulbs, do it right and it should probably be safe enough. Using a heatsink (sheet metal et.c.) as you suggested would probably be good, and make sure you always have clearance.
And get a fuse. With 40W @ 220VAC, a 200mA fast acting fuse would probably be reasonable.

wow - thanks for that. I'm pretty sure you're estimations can't be far off they seem reasonable - honestly I hope you had fun doing them and that they didn't take you too long because it looks like brain damage to me - so thanks - :mug:

I think I might give it a go - maybe with the heat-shield effort - if nothing but for an experiment.

Thanks for the tip on the fuse. Is the purpose of the fuse more for electrical safety or would it help too if there was an overheating situation. You sound like you might know is why I'm asking but maybe it's just best practice. I'm mainly curious.
 
You're welcome :) The fuse is for electrical safety. A short does not have to be a no resistance path directly to ground.
 
Again, I'll recommend a seed starter heating mat. Under $20 off Amazon, 20-40W, waterproof, low watt density, and plug and play. Can be wrapped around a fermenter with bungee straps etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7U259C/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Can also be used to germinate seeds for your vegetable garden. And for proofing bread, or making yogurt.
 
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I was concerned with the heating pads and light bulbs being safe. I bought an aquarium heater and put it in a gallon glass jar of water in my fermenter. It doesn't change temps fast but it will increase 5-10 degrees in 24 hours if I want it to in my 55 degree basement in the winter. It is on a gfci breaker so if something goes wrong that will trip, very low likelihood of fires.

Make sure to get one that goes to a relatively high temp like the one below that I used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2H301D/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Again, I'll recommend a seed starter heating mat. Under $20 off Amazon, 20-40W, waterproof, low watt density, and plug and play. Can be wrapped around a fermenter with bungee straps etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7U259C/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Can also be used to germinate seeds for your vegetable garden. And for proofing bread, or making yogurt.

I'm going to throw my voice behind this post. Since in an earlier post, OP is looking at spending 26-30 Euros, at that point I don't know the benefit of trying something new when the heat mats (not heating pad) are the perfect solution. Unless one needs the entire fermentation chamber to be at temp, those mats are perfect for controlling temperature.

One thing I've noticed in my own decisionmaking over the years is that sometimes I'll change the parameters of my decisionmaking. In other words, once I've decided to go higher in price, that means I should re-evaluate all options at that higher price point.

OP started with trying the cheap solution (light bulb) but has moved on to more elegant and effective solutions. That's a good move on his part, IMO, but also what should happen is a re-evaluation of all options.
 
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OP started with trying the cheap solution (light bulb) but has moved on to more elegant and effective solutions. That's a good move on his part, IMO, but also what should happen is a re-evaluation of all options.

:rockin: how right you are - but time is money too and as with everything in the homebrew scene I always end up learning much more than I had planned, spent more than I had expected and .... well how do I get off this merry go round and all that ... :tank:
 
I have been using a ceramic reptile bulb for years I haVe been thinking of adding a fan for circulation.
 
Getting harder to find incandescent light bulbs in the US...most manufactures quit making them. Last time I looked a Lowe's they had one choice at 150 watts. My kegerators sit out side so thats what I have in them if temps drop below freezing.

About as cheap as you can get...I think I paid 4.95 each for the clamp on light fixture with hood. would not be to hard to figure out away to reduce the light output for fermentation usage.

Resized_20170215_145555.jpg
 
Getting harder to find incandescent light bulbs in the US...most manufactures quit making them. Last time I looked a Lowe's they had one choice at 150 watts. My kegerators sit out side so thats what I have in them if temps drop below freezing.

You need specialty light bulbs; those aren't going away anytime soon. Like a 40W appliance bulb, or a 125W heat lamp.
 
it depends where your fridge is and what temperature differential you are fighting. my fridge is in the garage where it occasionally dips into the 40s. even then a 60W incandescent in a paint can cost me roughly $10 to make and is pretty safe. it's constructed using a UL approved bulb socket and the paint can itself obviously isnt flammable. Just make sure you do the wiring safely and you always have a breaker in case the wires short, so dont worry anout that. just dont drape a piece of cloth over the can to cover any tiny bit of light that may escape, cause it gets HOT!! I've never had any skunkiness in my beers...the amount of light that escapes the can is absolutely tiny...
 
Has anyone tried attaching a heat sink directly to the ceramic bulb, then have a fan blow across the heat sink? Would that help at all, or would the bulb be compromised? I've never used one of those before. If it's just like a ceramic heater, I couldn't imagine it being a problem, and you'd dissipate the heat quicker and more efficiently.
 
I'm not sure why folks are afraid of a bulb in a clean paint can. Worked great for many batches of beer for many brewers. You don't need much heat in a small space to warm your beers up. I use a 100 watt personal ceramic space heater for a 23 cubic foot commercial fridge with a half barrel fermentor. I can hit 85+ in a 50 degree garage.
 
@Dcpooks: You really don't understand why minimizing the risk of burning your house (and yourself) down, might be something some people find to be worthwhile?
 
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