Robobrew/Brewzilla Discussion

[Henbrew]

Did my second partigyle brew day yesterday. A main porter brew and second dopplebock brew.

I used my biggest grain bill yet in the 35L (14 lbs). I remembered to throw in a few handfuls of rice hulls and WOW that made a difference. Much easier recirculation and stirring.

One major issue though -checked the 35L thermometer with two separate thermometers & the Brewzilla thermometer was off by 29F degrees! Guess I know why my beers have been winding up so dry. With that much of a difference, I may try to recalibrate

I've had this issue many times with mine as well. I believe that when the kettle heats up during the mash that it creates a hot pocket below the grain which creates a large discrepancy. On the batches where I can manage to keep the recirculation rate a bit higher it seems to really help even out the temperature. I've tried relocating the temperature probe to the side of the kettle, away from the heat source, but it doesn't do anything to help with the heat distribution.

 

[Sammy86]

Well phew.
I've just read the entire thread in one sitting. Awaiting my award eagerly...

I'm sure there's things I've forgotten to comment on, but here's my Brewzilla 35 litre experience. I'm in New Zealand so unapologetically use metric figures, can't get my head around US/UK gallons (why are they different?) and farenheit...

I was given it in May 2021 and have done 14 brews now, all different bar the NZ Pilsner I am currently supping (that was so good I've re-brewed it for xmas day)...

I use Brewfather for all my recipe calculations, and haven't had any issues, except for a couple where the mash was too thick so I added an extra litre of water (sparged less to compensate)...

I sparge by pouring a litre at a time over the top screen. The only time I removed the screen the gravity was a little low, and I put that down to channels forming. And it's only when I've lost count sparging that I've thought I may need a sight glass. Lifting the pipe to check levels wasn't a big deal, just a little awkward...

I also have family commitments so like brewing early in the AM. Generally fill sparge urn and Brewzilla the night before and just turn on first thing, it heats while I am getting prepped. I like manually operating it so have never used the program function...

I too use hot water from chilling for cleanup. Generally run a PBW mix through the unit then rinse well. A tip I picked up for stubborn deposits was to use a microfibre cloth and vinegar. Any hard deposits rub off easily, then again a good rinse and I store upside down to drain dry...

After sparging I lift the pipe into a large sanitised bucket. A lot of sweet wort collects while I am setting up the boil...

Boilovers happen, but I just turn the tap on and collect in a 5 litre measuring jug until it settles into a rolling boil, and pour back in...

I use a hop spider that fits inside the supplied s/s chiller coil. So post boil hop additions are easy. A tip I've just picked up from here is to give this a stir to maximize hop utilisation...

I made a stepped brew bench with 3 levels so the BZ, bottling bucket and scales etc are all at a good working height...

I always set flow at the tap so nothing flows through the overflow. Often quite slow at the beginning but have always met (and usually exceed) targets...

I measure temp at the output of the pump, and change the controller set point to get output temp to match the recipe...

I just use the tap to drain into fermenter, through a sieve to catch any bits and to add aeration. Usually tilt it at the end to maximize volumes, stopping just before the gluggy bits.

I use a whirlpool arm but mainly for rapid heating/cooling as I use a hop spider. I never use the pump at boiling temp, and have found the 1900W element keeps the rolling boil just right on it's own (NZ has 240V single phase supply)...

And that's pretty much it. Look forward to gaining knowledge from this forum and trying new methods...

Sorry about the rambling post but I've just read 25 pages, and I'm trying to comment on things I remembered.

Also, think I've talked to @DuncB on another forum...

I am thoroughly impressed!, congratulations and welcome to our little corner of the forum!

 

[Sonofastu]

Hello again folks! To recap, I’m currently fermenting my first batch. I missed my target 1.063 OG. Wound up at 1.05. This Friday will be two weeks in the fermenter. Today I pulled my first sample. Currently at 1.0253. It sure doesn’t look like much is going on in there. Also, I have a spunding valve on the Fermzilla and the pressure dropped out recently. I had it set at 5psi. According to the recipe it’s supposed to finish at 1.016. Is there anything else I should be doing? Or just check the gravity over the next couple days looking for change?

Also, I used a refractometer to check the gravity. I read that I could use the brix scale and do a conversion so this is the method I used to check.

I poured a half glass to taste It was very good!…even flat. If the gravity doesn’t change, I’ve brewed a really nice session stout

Any wisdom to impart?

 

[Sammy86]

Also, I used a refractometer to check the gravity. I read that I could use the brix scale and do a conversion so this is the method I used to check.

Using a refractometer is not the best method for fermented/fermenting beer...the alcohol messes with the reading. I would use a good old fashion hydrometer to get the most accurate reading.

 

[GoodTruble]

@sifty - Welcome. Thanks for the recap. Some useful info.

@Sonofastu - Two easy things to try - just give the fermenter a good shake/swirl. Don't break anything or cause it to splash up over the top, but a good enough shake to mix it up a bit. Sometimes that will get the yeast going again. And it will all sink back to the bottom over 1-3 days. .........Or, at what temp are you fermenting (and what yeast)? Sometimes raising the temp a few degrees (if you can) will get the yeast moving again. And shouldn't impact taste (after primary ferm is done).

 

[GoodTruble]

Also, I forgot to mention that I used the brewzilla's stainless steel wort chiller for the first time, and I was quite happy with it. My copper chiller (now sidelined with some odd corrosion spots) was about 5-10 minutes quicker, but the SS chiller that came with the brewzilla was a more than acceptable substitute.

 

[Sonofastu]

@sifty - Welcome. Thanks for the recap. Some useful info.

@Sonofastu - Two easy things to try - just give the fermenter a good shake/swirl. Don't break anything or cause it to splash up over the top, but a good enough shake to mix it up a bit. Sometimes that will get the yeast going again. And it will all sink back to the bottom over 1-3 days. .........Or, at what temp are you fermenting (and what yeast)? Sometimes raising the temp a few degrees (if you can) will get the yeast moving again. And shouldn't impact taste (after primary ferm is done).

thanks! Good info. Yeast is S-04. Temp is set for 68F but seems to be always a few degrees less. It would appear that I’ll mostly be heating my Ferm-chamber. I have a standup freezer on an inkbird controller. It’s located in a concrete closet under my front porch…ambient temp is 50 in the winter and 60ish in the summer.

 

[jtratcliff]

But there's another limit to a corona mill - the hopper size.

Get an old 5 gallon water bottle and cut the bottom off... Invert it into the small corona hopper.

Makes a great hopper extension...

Easily holds 13+lbs of grain

 

[GoodTruble]

thanks! Good info. Yeast is S-04. Temp is set for 68F but seems to be always a few degrees less. It would appear that I’ll mostly be heating my Ferm-chamber. I have a standup freezer on an inkbird controller. It’s located in a concrete closet under my front porch…ambient temp is 50 in the winter and 60ish in the summer.

I would expect S-04 to ferment further and would try raising temp 2-3 degrees to see if wakes the yeast up a bit.

 

[GoodTruble]

Just thinking about the design and potential modifications. Is there a reason the bottom/false bottom of the malt pipe is detachable/so easily detachable? It seems like having a fixed/attached bottom would be better, but I may be overlooking some drawback.

If the bottom was more secure, I'm thinking you could perform little 3-4 inch lifts/shakes during the mash to loosen up the grains and break up channels & dough balls to increase efficiency. With the current bottom, I worry it will get dislodged with any significant movement (even vigorous stirring sometimes causes it to shift around).

 

[IanJ]

Beyond cleaning, it seems like a fixed bottom would only help aid in setting a nice grain bed to filter through. So not entirely sure, from my limited experience.

Random question for anyone who has lost their overflow cone... has anyone just brewed without it and not encountered any significant trouble?

Can't find mine, possibly dropped it into a bag of spent grain and tossed it... pretty damn annoyed at myself. They're out of stock everywhere so a replacement seems unlikely for an unknown amount of time. Not sure if overflow air bubbles could jam the tube up or if it's mostly a theoretical flaw to brew without one.

 

[GoodTruble]

I don't know its full, true purpose.
But this link may help.....

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4001338262014.html

 

[RePete]

Beyond cleaning, it seems like a fixed bottom would only help aid in setting a nice grain bed to filter through. So not entirely sure, from my limited experience.

Random question for anyone who has lost their overflow cone... has anyone just brewed without it and not encountered any significant trouble?

Can't find mine, possibly dropped it into a bag of spent grain and tossed it... pretty damn annoyed at myself. They're out of stock everywhere so a replacement seems unlikely for an unknown amount of time. Not sure if overflow air bubbles could jam the tube up or if it's mostly a theoretical flaw to brew without one.

My guess is that the main function is to set the overflow height above the top screen. If the top of the center pipe is too high, then enough water may collect above the grain to allow the pool at the bottom to go dry. As long as you set the height not too high you should be fine.

I lost mine too and ordered a new one at some point.

 

[Sonofastu]

Howdy folks! Here we have a pic of my first brew ever, from my own kegerator! Obviously I’m super excited! Thanks for all the words of wisdom throughout this process. This was an all grain, 5gal Sierra Nevada stout clone kit. I missed my target OG so she’s a very drinkable session stout. I was too impatient to wait long so I force carbed at 30 psi for 2min, then over night at 10psi. It could use a bit more carb but overall I’m very pleased! I expect it will get better with a little time. Last Friday was 2 weeks in primary. I learned a lot over the course of this first brew. Brew, keg, clean, taps…all new to me. I’d been collecting equipment leading up to the purchase of my 65L for about 5 years. When I’d stumble upon a good deal of used equipment, I’d stash it away for another day. I bought new lines at my LHBS and they didn’t have the size or type I was looking for. Will upgrade and size appropriate before the next keg goes in. I plan to do a Sierra Nevada pale ale clone. Wanted to keep things simple for the first few batches. Hopefully I’ll get it on tap before the stout kicks and have two brews to offer. Next will be an old Rasputin clone and maybe a lager or pils. Thanks again for the resources and wisdom!! Cheers!

 

[Sammy86]

Howdy folks! Here we have a pic of my first brew ever, from my own kegerator! Obviously I’m super excited! Thanks for all the words of wisdom throughout this process. This was an all grain, 5gal Sierra Nevada stout clone kit. I missed my target OG so she’s a very drinkable session stout. I was too impatient to wait long so I force carbed at 30 psi for 2min, then over night at 10psi. It could use a bit more carb but overall I’m very pleased! I expect it will get better with a little time. Last Friday was 2 weeks in primary. I learned a lot over the course of this first brew. Brew, keg, clean, taps…all new to me. I’d been collecting equipment leading up to the purchase of my 65L for about 5 years. When I’d stumble upon a good deal of used equipment, I’d stash it away for another day. I bought new lines at my LHBS and they didn’t have the size or type I was looking for. Will upgrade and size appropriate before the next keg goes in. I plan to do a Sierra Nevada pale ale clone. Wanted to keep things simple for the first few batches. Hopefully I’ll get it on tap before the stout kicks and have two brews to offer. Next will be an old Rasputin clone and maybe a lager or pils. Thanks again for the resources and wisdom!! Cheers!

Congratulations! Welcome to the world of all grain beer in an AIO! Beer looks good!

 

[Sonofastu]

Thanks!! I think I’ll have a few more

 

[DuncB]

Looks good, fairly low carb wanted for a stout so you are probably quite close.

Assume in your gear collecting over the years you have a fridge and temp controller for your lager?

 

[Sonofastu]

Looks good, fairly low carb wanted for a stout so you are probably quite close.

Assume in your gear collecting over the years you have a fridge and temp controller for your lager?

Yessir! Also, my fermentation chamber (stand up freezer on an inkbird) is in a space under my front porch. Stays at 50F in the winter and 60ish in the summer. It was a while after we moved in that I realized this weird basement closet was actually under my front porch! I have an IR heat lamp in the freezer for the heat side, and the freezer never kicked on during fermentation of the stout (my first brew). Fermenting in a Fermzilla.
Cheers!!

 

[DuncB]

You could consider a warm lager ferment under pressure then and you'll turn it around nice and quick. I use opshaug kveik for my lager, ferment at 30 celsius, well oxygenated, double yeast nutrient. Start off no pressure but put a spunding valve on and let it build to about 15 psi, then after 48 hours crank it up to 25 psi or more if it will take it. Then let it naturally fall in temp after about 4 days and cold crash on day seven or 8 ( add in some finings if you want and can do that closed under pressure). Don't forget to use the ferment gas to purge your keg as well. Then transfer closed on about day 12, put in kegerator at your usual pressure and you can drink it pretty much straightaway.

 

[DuncB]

Random question for anyone who has lost their overflow cone... has anyone just brewed without it and not encountered any significant trouble?

I don't use it but a bit far to post to you from here. I use a tea strainer inverted on the top of the malt pipe ( or you could just cut the mesh off a tea strainer and fashion it a bit more snugly. THen let it run over if needed and it traps any floaters so they don't get to the pump.

 

[IanJ]

I don't use it but a bit far to post to you from here. I use a tea strainer inverted on the top of the malt pipe ( or you could just cut the mesh off a tea strainer and fashion it a bit more snugly. THen let it run over if needed and it traps any floaters so they don't get to the pump.

Possibly a good mod to have even with the "proper" piece in place actually. Maybe I'll try slicing up an old bazooka screen I've got lying around from an old cooler mash tun. Seems like it would work well actually.

 

[DuncB]

The mesh on my tea strainer is only a little bit bigger than that on my Hop spider, but a bazooka screen would fit quite well I expect.

 

[IanJ]

Just wrapped up a not-so-fun brew day, although according to BrewFather my mash hit 94% efficiency, but man it was such a damn ordeal with way more work than normal brew day.

Mash temp was off the entire time, I don't think I'm mashing in this thing again. Going back to the 10G cooler. With the 10-13 degree F difference between the bottom of the Brewzilla and the core with an external probe, it's just an ordeal rolling the dice with what it might be once temps settle, and then not be able to ramp to the right amount in time, without spending an extra hour mashing.

I was aiming for 150-152, and even with a strike temp of 165 it essentially stabilized at around 144 according to the calibrated external probe, so I raised the temperature numerous times, and at one point set to 164 at the bottom, but the external probe was saying 144-148... so I assume there was an average in there somewhere around the 150ish mark for enough time getting conversion. Hoping that it worked out without an extremely dry beer. Didn't feel like getting out the iodine and exhausted all my options (more importantly, time) and decided to just consider it mashed after ~80-90 minutes.

After that, ended up dumping in all 4 gallons of sparge water in 2-3 batches, when the recipe only called for 2-3G, so there was a big loss in there somewhere (or BF miscalculated) but either way I managed to just about hit pre-boil volume correctly, topped off the kettle with .5G of cold water.

According to the calculations it's estimated that I hit such a high mash efficiency... after stirring aggressively practically the entire time, dealing with a clogged pump during 50% of recirculation, a stuck sparge due to wheat gunk (even with 8oz of rice hulls), getting angry at the top screen preventing me from stirring, and then breaking up the grain bed because nothing drained when lifting the pipe. After all that... to hit such a high percentage is a bit confusing.

But hey, if it's a good beer after this, who the hell cares. Happy new year!

 

[Sidman]

Cheers everyone! Just read through the forum and lots of good stuff here. I have had a BZ 65l for almost a year trying to switch over from a 3 v propane / rims set up where I typically do 10G batches. Love the ease of use but like everyone has mentioned, the recirculation on it is painfully slow. I see that the new Anvil and just recently the v2 of the mash and boil all have holes on the sides of the malt pipe for "higher flow" recirculation ( approx 4" or so up the sides.) It seems to me that the malt pipe and screens leave a lot to be desired considering how well most everything else works. Has anyone tried different screens or malt pipes? Very interested in the smart pid option - wonder if it will work on the 65l since it has three heating elements? Thanks for all the great tips!!

 

[Sammy86]

Love the ease of use but like everyone has mentioned, the recirculation on it is painfully slow.

Not trying to start trouble here but I don't have any issues with recirculation. Never have.

 

[Sidman]

I'll bite. But first do you have a 35 or 65L? Also did you purchase yours prior to mid 2020 as some earlier models seem to have a had a different screen set up?
What's your secret? My current process is grains milled at .4, use of some rice hulls and a fairly loose mash thickness. I let the mash sit for 15 mins and can barely get the valve 1/4 open
without overflowing.

 

[RePete]

My current process is grains milled at .4, use of some rice hulls and a fairly loose mash thickness. I let the mash sit for 15 mins and can barely get the valve 1/4 open without overflowing.

Why don't you want to overflow? By overflow I assume that you mean to have the wort go down the center pipe. I let my pump run throughout the mash. I don't have mine wide open, but there is a continuous flow down the center. I think that is how it is designed. You will continuously have heated water pumped to the top.

Turn it on and let it flow; don't worry, have a homebrew.

 

[DuncB]

@Sidman
Re smart pid in brewzilla 65



I have just installed smartpid in my Guten 70 which is basically the same as Brewzilla 65.

As @RePete says and I mention above, pump at full speed, using a teastrainer on the top of the overflow pipe no top screen and stir a bit, you get soak through the mash bed and down through the middle. Just make sure the flow doesn't suck the element dry. I use glucanase rather than rice hulls and find that too rapid a flow thru mash bed is more of an issue than too slow.

 

[Sammy86]

I'll bite. But first do you have a 35 or 65L? Also did you purchase yours prior to mid 2020 as some earlier models seem to have a had a different screen set up?
What's your secret? My current process is grains milled at .4, use of some rice hulls and a fairly loose mash thickness. I let the mash sit for 15 mins and can barely get the valve 1/4 open
without overflowing.

65L bought summer of 2019. Modifications include pulling the overflow pipe and plugging the mash pipe with a stainless steel plug.

1. I wet condition the grain before milling. Even before I was wet conditioning I didn't have any issues with recirculating though, the conditioning helps with the muck and dust. Right now I'm milling at .34.


2. I mash thin 2 qts/pound of grain. So for a standard 1.050 beer I'm mashing in with 11 gallons.

3. I mix the grain in for the mash adding rice hulls as I go...three handfuls total. I mix everything well let it rest for 10 minutes then start recirculating with this: Eagle Brewing BE510 Siphon Spray Wort Aerator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ODSS5J8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_pUnZs1AJRsAE2

I use the Hochkurz mash steps. First step at 144° for 30-45 minutes. Stop recirculating, mix really well let it rest 10 minutes and then recirculate and bump temperature up to 158 for 30-45 minutes.

Once done I pull the pipe, sparge with my Digiboil 1/2 gallon at a time...sometimes i put the top screen on sometimes I don't.

Never had a stuck sparge using this method. What it sounds like to me is your mash is too compact or channelling is happening interupting the flow of wort from top to bottom.

 

[cactusgarrett]

I run damn near identical to @Sammy86 (grain conditioning, large handfuls of rice hulls, Hochkurz schedule). The only time my flow was restricted was my last batch of about 20% wheat 80% pils: all was fine until the second sacc rest (160°F) when i got a bit too greedy and opened the recirc a little more than I should and I think it compressed the grainbed. Had to stir to loosen and let set for another 10min before starting up the recirc pump again.

 

[IanJ]

The only time my flow was restricted was my last batch of about 20% wheat 80% pils: all was fine until the second sacc rest (160°F) when i got a bit too greedy and opened the recirc a little more than I should and I think it compressed the grainbed. Had to stir to loosen and let set for another 10min before starting up the recirc pump again.

I think that was essentially the cause of all of my latest brew issues. Actually in my case, pump flow was great until wheat must have clogged the pump/bottom screen too much. Even with rice hulls. Next time I'm working with a 40%+ wheat beer, I'm going to make sure it's at the top of the mash and hope it doesn't work its way down.

Base malt into the pipe first.... and also maybe go with a thinner 1.6-7 ratio instead of 1.5, it's definitely a weird per-mash adjustment that seems to be required for making these limiting AIO systems work as intended. Nothing wrong with that of course, just requires more planning and less spontaneous brewing.

 

[cactusgarrett]

and also maybe go with a thinner 1.6-7 ratio instead of 1.5

I did no-sparge (on my 65L unit) and added water to make 3.0 qt/lb (which is functionally 2.25 qt/lb once you factor out the recoverable dead space under the malt pipe), and I still didn't dodge the bullet once I increased the flow too much, so that factor will remain on my radar. All my research before getting the unit basically said don't attempt lower than 2.0 qt/lb if you can help it. I do like the idea of layering the wheat on top; curious if that will work.

 

[IanJ]

I did no-sparge (on my 65L unit) and added water to make 3.0 qt/lb (which is functionally 2.25 qt/lb once you factor out the recoverable dead space under the malt pipe), and I still didn't dodge the bullet once I increased the flow too much, so that factor will remain on my radar. All my research before getting the unit basically said don't attempt lower than 2.0 qt/lb if you can help it. I do like the idea of layering the wheat on top; curious if that will work.

If I brew my typical NEIPA next batch with a good amount of wheat and oats, which I'm thinking I will, I'll be sure to mention any success with that approach -- if I don't give in an use my cooler mashtun

Kinda regretting not having the 65L for stronger beer/full volume batches, but I couldn't justify the cost and upgrading outlets just to use it.

 

[tiktb8]

I'm considering the 65L and the Spike Solo for my move to electric. I'll be moving to the basement also and as such don't currently have a hood. I'm considering the Spike condensing lid.

Does anyone know if the Spike lid fits the Brewzilla 65L well?

 

[cactusgarrett]

Does anyone know if the Spike lid fits the Brewzilla 65L well?

I considered this but couldn't determine confidently that it was going to fit - it seems like each unit is sized just a bit different and one person's Spike lid fit fine, where another's didn't. I went with the distillation lid made specifically for the BZ, and tacked on the Steam Slayer. Works like a charm.

 

[cactusgarrett]

 

[Sammy86]

View attachment 754565

 

[priorm]

@Sidman
Re smart pid in brewzilla 65



I have just installed smartpid in my Guten 70 which is basically the same as Brewzilla 65.

As @RePete says and I mention above, pump at full speed, using a teastrainer on the top of the overflow pipe no top screen and stir a bit, you get soak through the mash bed and down through the middle. Just make sure the flow doesn't suck the element dry. I use glucanase rather than rice hulls and find that too rapid a flow thru mash bed is more of an issue than too slow.

Hi DuncB.

Thanks for the detailed posting.

I have a 35L Brewzilla 3.0 and am considering adding insulation to the base, under the elements and above the electronics. I noticed the unit in the video has this.

What type of insulation is appropriate? Has anyone added insulation below the elements?

 

[DuncB]

@priorm
I have noticed the insulation as well. Its not in my 3.0 or in the Guten 70.
I suspect its some ceramic and hence fireproof material. Probably a bit like loft insulation wool. Seems like a very good idea, old lagging jackets for hot water had loft insulation in. Might be worth talking to a fire safety company.

 

[GoodTruble]

Happy to announce my smoothest brew day yet with the Brewzilla.

I took some time to re-read this thread and look for little changes.

I mixed in rice hulls evenly during dough-in in several small handfulls, and had a much smoother recirculation despite a larger than normal grain bill. I only had to throttle the recirc pipe about halfway, and there was no rise/overflow needed. (I also just left the lid off so it was easier to monitor the liquid level on top).

I put a nylon BIAB under/around the malt pipe, but went back to using the center pipe and top screen. The BIAB is a failsafe in case grains escape the malt pipe somewhere (which didn't happen today), and it stays in place after I remove the malt pipe so that I can just toss hops in without a hop screen (which winds up being simpler/faster for me).

To speed things up, I only left the malt pipe on top for a few minutes after removing, and then just set in it a separate side pot to finish draining (and a small sparge). Then I just dumped the wort from the side pot back into the Brewzilla later during the boil.

I also used the overnight timer to get my water to temp about 30 minutes before I woke up. It meant skipping a lot of my step mashing, but absolutely worth the trade off in time savings.

My efficiency was a bit lower this time. But not by much (70%). I'm guessing it's because my mash was shorter overall.

But overall, it definitely feels like I'm getting closer to getting my process/approach nailed down.