RipTide or MkII pump for 10 Gallon Batches?

[BarleyAndApple]

Only pump I've used is March 809 for 5 gal batches.

I'm in the process of switching over to 10G batches (I no longer have the March pump by the way) and I was wondering if MkII would be good enough. I was originally looking at RipTide because

1) Splash resistant
2) Valve on body and relief valve
3) Switch on the body. (I am planning a "manual" RIMS system) - Not important.

Then I came across MkII pump which much more affordable.

1) I plan to use Quick disconnects so Stainless head isn't really necessary
2) Even when I had March pump, I don't ever recall fully opening the valve - but I was doing 5 Gal batch.
3) It's splash resistant as well (to my knowledge)

So I was about to head with MkII until I read somewhere on passing that "Perfectly fine for 5G batches". That got me concerned. However, I don't see the need to pump at any higher rate for 10G than 5G while recirculating wort?


Thanks in advance.

 

[Bilsch]

I have both a Riptide and a MKII on my system and usually do 8 gal batches. I like the MKII much better.

 

[day_trippr]

^that's^ a rather stunning statement. Wonder what drove it...

Cheers!

 

[Bilsch]

What's stunning about it?

 

[BarleyAndApple]

I have both a Riptide and a MKII on my system and usually do 8 gal batches. I like the MKII much better.

How come?

 

[Bilsch]

I don't like how large and heavy the pump body is or how it's laid out and so you have little choice on the orientation or you will trap air. Even with the bleed valve it's tough to get enough air out to get a smooth start because there are just too many angles, passages and cavities in there. The valve is kind of a crappy design in my mind. When you remove the stem (spool?) out of the valve body there is a detent near the opening that catches the o-ring and you have to yank the thing out to remove it which makes it easy to damage the ring. Also the finish on the valve interior is too rough and so the small ring takes some damage in the operation. When operating at or near boiling temperatures this pump will cavitate before the MKII will, which makes it not much different then a chugger in that respect. And lastly, while not a big deal, it's actually louder then the MKII.

IMO it's just not worth almost twice the price of a SS MKII. I fell for all the hype about it reading reviews here and on other forums and bought one but it turned out it was mostly just that, hype.

 

[BarleyAndApple]

Thank you. Would you recommend the stainless steel head?

 

[Bilsch]

To be honest I never used the plastic head it came with so I really can't say much about it. With the weight of valves and fittings I planned to attach to the pump housing it just seemed like a good idea for the price to upgrade with the metal one.

 

[BarleyAndApple]

After a research, it sounds like you may have gotten the one of the first production runs of Blichmann. Call them and you maybe able to get a replacement. Does yours have "B" marking on the front of the pump?

 

[Bilsch]

Yes it has a 'B' cast in the face of the housing. Have they revised the design of the valve or pump passages since the earlier versions? If not then I'm probably not going to like it any better.

 

[BarleyAndApple]

What's the color of the impeller?

Check this link out

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/problem-with-new-riptide-pump.631018/page-2

 

[Bilsch]

That's an interesting read, thanks for the tip. I have the brown impeller so I guess it's the latest. Just bought the pump a few months ago.

 

[TxBigHops]

Only pump I've used is March 809 for 5 gal batches.

I'm in the process of switching over to 10G batches (I no longer have the March pump by the way) and I was wondering if MkII would be good enough. I was originally looking at RipTide because

1) Splash resistant
2) Valve on body and relief valve
3) Switch on the body. (I am planning a "manual" RIMS system) - Not important.

Then I came across MkII pump which much more affordable.

1) I plan to use Quick disconnects so Stainless head isn't really necessary
2) Even when I had March pump, I don't ever recall fully opening the valve - but I was doing 5 Gal batch.
3) It's splash resistant as well (to my knowledge)

So I was about to head with MkII until I read somewhere on passing that "Perfectly fine for 5G batches". That got me concerned. However, I don't see the need to pump at any higher rate for 10G than 5G while recirculating wort?


Thanks in advance.

Have you considered the Topsflo? I'm at the same place as you, upgrading to 10 gallons and planning to add a pump. This has been very enlightening as I too figured the Riptide would be top-of-the-line, and trying to decide if it was enough better to justify the added cost. OR, if the MKII or Topsflo would be nearly as good, quieter, and a bit cheaper. Honestly, I like saving money so would go with the MKII with SS head if most are happy with it.

 

[CodeSection]

I use two MKII pumps with SS heads for my 10 gallon batches. In my set up, they work really well, and are really quite.

 

[augiedoggy]

I have a couple topsflo td5 dc pumps, a riptide and a bumch of both 12v and 24v tan food grade pps pumps. I see no reason myself to upgrade from the tan 24v pumps for my homebrewing rig because I net higher efficiencies with the lower 2gpm flow rates when recirculating through my rims and when pumping through the plate chiller I usually still turn down the flow from the 3gpm rate the pump has in that configuration. I leave all three of my pumps hard plumbed into my lines and CIP.. been using the same pumps this way for 4 years and I average 91% efficiency with them on primarily 10.5g brews.

I use the riptide and td5s in a 3bbl system I built for a brewpub im opening and they do work very well as well. I do like how easily the riptide comes apart for cleaning and now you can buy the riptide head for older march pumps (which will fit chuggers im told too) since the riptide is made for blichmann by march.
I use the td5s and the riptide is backup and for transferring through the sabco plate chiller.

I have the newer version of the td5 that comes with the speed controllers which work well instead of valves. brew pi is the only one carrying them that I could find. They are actually made for brewing beer by topsflo unlike the solar mppt controlled older version many places are clearencing now.

 

[universalfrost]

I have a chugger and a mkii ( stainless heads on both)...

The mkii is super quiet and I got it cheap brand new off eBay seller with a stainless head...if I didn't already have a chugger pump I would buy another mkii.

Chugger is used primarily for the boil kettle and recurculating the hlt water and handles the duties well.

Mkii works just as well and again is super quiet and great for revirculating the wort in the mash tun or when I am indoors brewing with the mash and boil and recirculating.

 

[gnef]

I personally have two chuggers, both stainless center inlet, one is the original design, the second is their mini-max. I am very pleased overall, and I like using them. I have used a March 809 inline in the past, and I definitely prefer the chugger pumps. If you want something splash resistant, consider the mini-max. It is a TEFC motor, and is quieter than the other one. I am considering replacing the older chugger with another mini-max, but that will wait till I have completed other upgrades first.

 

[augiedoggy]

Not sure if I mentioned it in this thread but you can buy the riptide tc head for the march (and I believe chugger pumps since they are a clone). March makes the riptide and now sells the upgrade for some of the thier other pumps.

 

[universalfrost]

Thanks for the heads up..I was not aware of the interchangeablity on the heads...I'm transitioning to TC and this will make my life easier and cheaper to just buy a new head for my chugger..

 

[4of7]

I have a top flow works great I do 10-gallon batches

 

[cyberbackpacker]

I found the MKII did not provide an adequate enough whirlpool on 10g batches (and my BK has a dedicated tangential whirlpool inlet); the Chugger did so I would assume the Riptide would too!

That said, the MKII is very quiet by comparison with regards to a Chugger.

 

[CodeSection]

In my experience on several 10g batches, the MKII provides more than enough whirlpool action. My whirlpool inlet is at the 4g level. So, I'm guessing the whirlpool inlet level may influence the whirlpool.

 

[mongoose33]

How do you prime the MkII? I just bought out a guy and got two MkII's as part of the deal. Planned on selling them and buying another Riptide, but now I'm wondering.

I've always liked my Riptide, but then, it's all I've ever used.

*******
$275: Two 82-quart Bayou Classic kettles w/ thermometers and valves, two MkII pumps (one SS, one plastic), hoses for connecting them, a Blichmann Therminator plate chiller, a 1-gauge CO2 regulator.

I don't even make 10-gallon batches yet but I couldn't pass this up. I'll upgrade the valves on the kettles, probably have another $100 in them by the time I'm done, but likely selling off most of it.

 

[CodeSection]

@mongoose33 , I have had zero issues in priming the MKII. I run the hose from the BK valve to the center inlet on the MKII. Then attach a hose to the upper pointing outlet on the MKII and attach the other end of the hose to the recirculating valve. Open all the valves and wort easily flows down to the pump priming it from both valves on the BK.

I follow the same procedure when working with my MT.