Relay to Turn On/Off Glycol Chiller Pump?

[Hop]

I got a great deal from a buddy at work on a used Kalinka-Ice Glycol Chiller.

I also have a Grainfather Conical fermentor with the cooling pump kit.

Yeah, I realize none of this is DIY. It violates my need to do DIY stuff too!

Here's my dilemma, and where the DIY is going to come in:
- The stock pump for the fermentor is a tiny little 12VDC number that the manufacturer recommended against using with a glycol solution any greater than 5%.
- I could buy a better 12VDC pump to immerse in the glycol bath or a motorized ball valve, but I'd rather just use the monster pump on the glycol chiller.
- I don't currently have a method to turn on or off the pump on the Kalinka-Ice chiller apart from the manual switch on the front.

I've been doing some digging and found some information that might help answer my question:
- It's a UBC Kalinka-Ice Glycol chiller KG-1/6T
- The power switch for the pump is: Power switch “Arcolectric” Mouser Elektronics R13-117
- The pump itself is: Flojet SPC42 110V 1Pn 50/60Hz 1.2A

My thought is that I should use some sort of relay or solenoid so when the Grainfather Conical calls for cooling and outputs 12VDC, instead of powering the Grainfather pump (it would be put back in its box), it "flips" the switch on the Kalinka-Ice chiller to activate the bigger pump.

I attached some files that should help out. I'm more than happy to solder it up myself, I just need to ensure I'm doing the right thing here.

Preferably, I'd still be able to use the manual switch in addition to the fermentor's electrical "switch," but I'm willing to sacrifice that since whatever I do will be reversible.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Hop]

I've decided to do the following:

• IoT Power Relay plugged into the wall.
  
• Kalinka-Ice pump plugged into the "normally off" outlet of the relay.
• Grainfather Conical controller's 12VDC output connected to the relay to activate it.

Should be a pretty simple setup that I can reverse if the need arises.

I'll be using the powerful pump of the glycol chiller and can use up to 50% propylene glycol if necessary (probably using 70/30).

 

[helterscelter]

I've decided to do the following:

• IoT Power Relay plugged into the wall.
  
• Kalinka-Ice pump plugged into the "normally off" outlet of the relay.
• Grainfather Conical controller's 12VDC output connected to the relay to activate it.

Should be a pretty simple setup that I can reverse if the need arises.

I'll be using the powerful pump of the glycol chiller and can use up to 50% propylene glycol if necessary (probably using 70/30).

if you've not already pulled the trigger on this, you may consider getting a DC/AC SSR instead:

http://a.co/5fJcX4X

basically the pump switch wiring is parallel with the SSR so you can operate via SSR or via switch.. the 12v pump output goes to the control side of the SSR so that when the 12vdc signal is on, the SSR activates the pump on your chiller.

there are fewer things to go wrong with this, and you can still reverse it if needed (and it should be cheaper too)

 

[Hop]

Thanks, @helterscelter.

I'm trying to identify how to properly wire a solid state relay (I realized I have one laying around) for this purpose. Any tips?

 

[helterscelter]

Thanks, @helterscelter.

I'm trying to identify how to properly wire a solid state relay (I realized I have one laying around) for this purpose. Any tips?

the switch on your pump should be already wired to interrupt the "HOT" side of the circuit. you would wire the load side of the SSR in parallel with the switch -- ie, the same lead/wires coming into the switch and leaving the switch will also connect to and from the load side of the SSR.

the control side of the SSR will be labeled 3-32vdc and should be wired to your 12vdc connections (the + goes to one terminal and the - to the other)

I would wire the DC side of the SSR first, to make sure you get continuity through the load side when you expect the SSR to be "ON" .. that way you're not energizing the pump before you're sure the control side is working.

and as always, if you're not comfortable/don't know what you're doing with regard to being safe with electricity (110v can hurt/maim/kill you) I would recommend you get help from someone who knows what they are doing.

 

[Hop]

Once I had a day off work, I was able to wrap my head around what the solid state relay was doing. I kept looking in confusion about how to connect the input. Then, I realized it's just a gate. Derp. Wired it all up today.

I made all of the connections temporary for now. No cutting of any of the chiller's wires and nothing's actually soldered together, just crimped.

As you can't see, there's a solid state relay under that heatsink. Those wires are all crimped together and I popped some electrical tape on for extra insurance against shorts. That red wire isn't actually hot, it's neutral. The black wires are hot.

This is definitely a better idea than my previous thought of using an external relay setup. This is stuck to the bottom with Velcro and is easily removed. It stays inside the housing and is nice and inconspicuous.

You can see it in action here. Pretty boring, but I'm able to switch the pump on manually or with a DC signal.



This is the before:

 

[helterscelter]

nice! glad you got it figured out!

 

[Summoner12]

@Hop

The FLoJet pump on top of the cooler; that's the pump that flows glycol to the beverage lines or fermentor in your case?

I am looking at building a glycol cooler for my home. It's job will be to cool beverage trunk line. I am reading up on actual coolers and their specs and the BTU of 1150 has a limit of 25'. I am trying to go 40'. Most of this will be under ground between the garage and house and I live in Socal (riverside). What is your system rated at? do you have any knowledge of these systems besides what you have set up?