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I have been to every OJAM except the last one. I am the guy who always made fire for the kids with the hand drill. Always set up with the knappers and had the heated Kay County Flint. Usually picked up enough stuff to glue up a couple of BBO bows while there. I go to about all the midwest knap ins.
 
cool...I've never been to OJam but have been to most of the MoJams since #2... I just retired so OJam could happen for me this year.. :) I have all of the tools and would love to start knapping.
Bob
 
samick_sage_takedown_recurve_bow_1266490_1_og.jpg


Ordered my first recurve bow, super stoked about it. Samick Sage takedown, 40# draw.

Can't wait :ban:

Obligatory @Ace_Club
 
samick_sage_takedown_recurve_bow_1266490_1_og.jpg


Ordered my first recurve bow, super stoked about it. Samick Sage takedown, 40# draw.

Can't wait :ban:

Obligatory @Ace_Club

You'll love it... I have the 45# and it's just such a sweet bow for the price. Actually killed a squirrel in my backyard today... he was in my birch tree chattering at me, about 10 yards out, hit him with a homemade flu-flu/thumper combo.
 
You'll love it... I have the 45# and it's just such a sweet bow for the price. Actually killed a squirrel in my backyard today... he was in my birch tree chattering at me, about 10 yards out, hit him with a homemade flu-flu/thumper combo.

Bad ass. Glad to hear you like yours. Sounds like that tree rat got what he had coming.

Once I get good with the bow, I plan on ordering some 45# or 50# limbs for hunting, and, more importantly, because I can't let you have a stronger bow than me. 'Twould give me a tactical disadvantage in the even that we ever find ourselves in a fight to the death.
 
Bad ass. Glad to hear you like yours. Sounds like that tree rat got what he had coming.

Once I get good with the bow, I plan on ordering some 45# or 50# limbs for hunting, and, more importantly, because I can't let you have a stronger bow than me. 'Twould give me a tactical disadvantage when we find ourselves in a fight to the death.

Fixed that for you.

40# is really fine for most of the hunting you'll do anyway... you're not going to be taking 30+ yard shots at much. Need to get in pretty close with a recurve, but that's a huge part of the fun.
 
Fixed that for you.

Sh!t

40# is really fine for most of the hunting you'll do anyway... you're not going to be taking 30+ yard shots at much. Need to get in pretty close with a recurve, but that's a huge part of the fun.

Someone trying to keep a leg up on me would say that.
 
Not to quibble but it actually means Bow wood that is dark. I thought that is what I said to begin with. Mike

I don't know French or archery but I can use wikipedia and Google Translate.

Google:
bois d'arc -> wooden bow
bow wood that is dark ->arc bois qui est sombre

Wikipedia: The trees acquired the name bois d'arc, or "bow-wood", from early French settlers who observed the wood being used for war clubs and bow-making by Native Americans.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maclura_pomifera
 
no matter how it is translated, bois d'arc, or osage, is the best selfbow wood out there IMHO. It usually starts out quite yellow when first worked, but my older bows made from it are very deep brown now...so it reacts with light and darkens over time.
 
Nice bow, @Ace_Club

So says, you can take hog with as little as 35#, if you're good enough. You should get 75# though, just to make sure your arm gets good and messed up when the string hits it.

I made an arm guard from some felt backed vinyl with a western tooled pattern. It works.
 
Nice bow, @Ace_Club

So says, you can take hog with as little as 35#, if you're good enough. You should get 75# though, just to make sure your arm gets good and messed up when the string hits it.

I made an arm guard from some felt backed vinyl with a western tooled pattern. It works.

Sage advice. That'll really show Psylocide whut's whut, when my arm starts bleeding.

@Ace_Club

.
 
I have a friend that shoots the big 3D shoots, winning most of the time. He says that the Sage shoots extremely well for the money. I shoot longbows so can't help much with recurve advice. I do know that most of the guys I shoot with are carrying 45# bows for 3D and hunting these days. I still shoot 50-55# bows every day, but turned 60 this past year. Anyone starting out should start light, like 35-45#.
 
I'm learning to shoot with a Samick Sage 35#. I'll move up as I learn. My goal is to hunt deer at 52# with an classic Bear recurve that I picked up a few years ago.
 
I'm learning to shoot with a Samick Sage 35#. I'll move up as I learn. My goal is to hunt deer at 52# with an classic Bear recurve that I picked up a few years ago.

Sounds like you have it figured out...have fun, shoot a bunch, and have more fun. There are some great trad archery sites that can help too.
 
I spent all weekend shooting the new bow! 'Twas awesome. I'm not very gud yet, but I got to where I could at least hit the target every time, and sometimes actually hit where I'm aiming at.

Loving this bow. Going to need more arrows, or better yet learn how to build my own.

@Ace_Club

.
 
I spent all weekend shooting the new bow! 'Twas awesome. I'm not very gud yet, but I got to where I could at least hit the target every time, and sometimes actually hit where I'm aiming at.

Loving this bow. Going to need more arrows, or better yet learn how to build my own.

@Ace_Club

.

I make all of my own arrows..another addiction. I suggest getting the right size in aluminum because they are about the toughest thing you can use. Since you are going to shoot a bunch they work best. What pound draw is your bow and what is your draw length?
 
I make all of my own arrows..another addiction. I suggest getting the right size in aluminum because they are about the toughest thing you can use. Since you are going to shoot a bunch they work best. What pound draw is your bow and what is your draw length?

40# draw, 29" draw length.

I got a set of a dozen aluminum shafts with field points to start off with. They seem to be holding up pretty well so far. We abused the crap out of 'em this weekend, shooting at, um, things besides the archery target, but I've already destroyed the fletching on a couple of them.

@Ace_Club

.
 
40# draw, 29" draw length.

I got a set of a dozen aluminum shafts with field points to start off with. They seem to be holding up pretty well so far. We abused the crap out of 'em this weekend, shooting at, um, things besides the archery target, but I've already destroyed the fletching on a couple of them.

@Ace_Club

.
Have you actually marked the front of an arrow at full draw to measure? I know lots of friends that lost an inch or 2 draw length when switching to trad bows. It looks like 1916 or even full length 2016s would work if your draw is that long. You can also add/reduce point weight to change spine.
Arrow length to back of point-
....... 28" 29" 30" 31" 32"

1716 38# 34# 30# 26# --
1816 42# 38# 34# 29# 25#
1916 52# 47# 42# 36# 31#
2113 58# 52# 46# 41# 35#
2016 58# 52# 46# 41# 35#
I'm sure you use feathers not vanes... and if you want to shoot 'non target' things like stumps/cow patties...get a couple of judo points. They are the best thing out there for stumping... :)
 
Have you actually marked the front of an arrow at full draw to measure? I know lots of friends that lost an inch or 2 draw length when switching to trad bows. It looks like 1916 or even full length 2016s would work if your draw is that long.

I have not.

The dude at the bow shop just told me to measure my wingspan (across my back) with a piece of string, and divide that number by 2.5 to get my draw length.

You can also add/reduce point weight to change spine.

Arrow length to back of point-
....... 28" 29" 30" 31" 32"

1716 38# 34# 30# 26# --
1816 42# 38# 34# 29# 25#
1916 52# 47# 42# 36# 31#
2113 58# 52# 46# 41# 35#
2016 58# 52# 46# 41# 35#

Good info, thanks.

@Ace_Club

I'm sure you use feathers not vanes... and if you want to shoot 'non target' things like stumps/cow patties...get a couple of judo points. They are the best thing out there for stumping... :)

They all have vanes.
 
I have not.

The dude at the bow shop just told me to measure my wingspan (across my back) with a piece of string, and divide that number by 2.5 to get my draw length.

Good info, thanks.

@Ace_Club



They all have vanes.

aahhhh... no. Have someone carefully mark the arrow right where it meets the front of the bow at your full draw...then measure from there to the arrow nock groove. If you have to use an old school method, holding a yardstick between both hands with the other end in the center of your chest is usually close.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdV8suofTsM[/ame]

"They all have vanes."
aaahhh...no...you need feathers for shooting off the shelf. It's amazing how much difference having the right arrows makes... Bows don't take game, arrows do. :)
 
aahhhh... no. Have someone carefully mark the arrow right where it meets the front of the bow at your full draw...then measure from there to the arrow nock groove. If you have to use an old school method, holding a yardstick between both hands with the other end in the center of your chest is usually close.


"They all have vanes."
aaahhh...no...you need feathers for shooting off the shelf. It's amazing how much difference having the right arrows makes... Bows don't take game, arrows do. :)

Thanks, good to know. Live and learn. I'll do better on my next set of arrows.

@Ace_Club

I'm still a noob. :D
 
that video will help, and 3 Rivers is one of the best places to buy trad supplies. That's all they do!
Have fun!
Bob
 

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