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Recommend a pH meter

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I had an Etekcity pH meter and quickly found it to be a POS as well. With the advice of my son who is a chemist, I upgraded to a temperature compensated Hanna Instruments meter, bought buffered reference solutions of pH 4, 7, and 10, and storage, and cleaning solutions. I now get consistent results. Careful storage with a little storage solution in the cap is essential. If I store the meter for over a week, I seal the cap full of storage soluion with electric tape to prevent evaporation. If the bulb (glass electrode) dries out, your pH meter is toast. It is possible to buy a new bulb for the Hanna but not the Etekcity as far as I know.

I always calibrate my meter with the buffered reference solutions before making measurements and if I have to do a lot of them, I calibrate now and then when doing a batch. Instrument drift is not large but common. Be sure to put your meter in distilled water for five or ten minutes before calibrating it and before using it on your must. The electrodes get dirty so use the cleaning solution now and then and at least with the Hanna, pull out more of the reference electrode as it gets encrusted with food solids suspended in your must and trim off the dirty part with scissors. The reference electrode is also replaceable on the Hanna.

Distilled water can vary significantly in pH. Since there are few ions in solution in distilled water, and it is not buffered, it cannot be used for calibration of a pH meter.
 
I have a MW101 and used it religiously for about 50 brews. It worked well, but I would go with the 102 for the automatic temperature compensation. That being said, I've stopped measuring my mash pH for a few reasons:

1. There's nothing you can do if it's off except adjust the next time, but since I rarely make a batch twice without tinkering with it, this isn't practical for me.
2. I think I was only off about twice in 50 brews, so I started trusting my Bru'n water calculations and my system to make reproducable results
3. As long as I'm close (5.2-5.5 for most styles) I can't seem to taste a difference, and since my range of error was usually 0.1 or so, I stopped worrying about it
4. I have really really clean tap water, so I'm lucky in the fact that I barely need to do anything to my brewing water
5. It's an extra step in my brew day that I'd rather not worry about,
6. I didn't notice a marked improvement in my beers after starting to measure pH, so the $100 investment wasn't worth it FOR ME.

It's 100% worth it if you have finnicky or unreliable tap water, you aren't sure of your calculations, or you are trying to track down an issue in your process.
 
I have a MW101 and used it religiously for about 50 brews. It worked well, but I would go with the 102 for the automatic temperature compensation. That being said, I've stopped measuring my mash pH for a few reasons:

1. There's nothing you can do if it's off except adjust the next time, but since I rarely make a batch twice without tinkering with it, this isn't practical for me.
2. I think I was only off about twice in 50 brews, so I started trusting my Bru'n water calculations and my system to make reproducable results
3. As long as I'm close (5.2-5.5 for most styles) I can't seem to taste a difference, and since my range of error was usually 0.1 or so, I stopped worrying about it
4. I have really really clean tap water, so I'm lucky in the fact that I barely need to do anything to my brewing water
5. It's an extra step in my brew day that I'd rather not worry about,
6. I didn't notice a marked improvement in my beers after starting to measure pH, so the $100 investment wasn't worth it FOR ME.

It's 100% worth it if you have finicky or unreliable tap water, you aren't sure of your calculations, or you are trying to track down an issue in your process.

Be aware that I'm making cider, not beer. pH is important in figuring out the dose of sulfites needed in unpasteurized juice before pitching yeast. And a pH meter can be used for measuring TA when adjusting acidity after fermentation. It's also useful for preventing stressed yeast when fermenting mead.

edit: I've ordered an MW102.
 
Be aware that I'm making cider, not beer. pH is important in figuring out the dose of sulfites needed in unpasteurized juice before pitching yeast. And a pH meter can be used for measuring TA when adjusting acidity after fermentation. It's also useful for preventing stressed yeast when fermenting mead.

edit: I've ordered an MW102.

Ah, didn't catch that... Carry on!

The 102 is a good meter.
 

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