Recipe feedback

[gwjames47]

I would like some feedback on this proposed recipe.

Thanks

The aroma hops at the end are in a Blichman Hop Rocket between the
kettle and the Duda Diesel chiller.


Black Knight Rye IPA
Specialty Beer
Type: All Grain Date: 7/29/2013
Batch Size (fermenter): 6.00 gal Brewer: Greg James
Boil Size: 7.77 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Brew Haus
End of Boil Volume 7.02 gal Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %
Final Bottling Volume: 5.75 gal Est Mash Efficiency 78.7 %
Fermentation: Ale, Single Stage Taste Rating(out of 50): 30.0
Taste Notes:

Ingredients

Ingredients
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
11.00 g Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 1 -
4.00 ml Lactic Acid (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 2 -
8.0 oz Rice Hulls (0.0 SRM) Adjunct 3 3.2 %
7 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 4 45.2 %
5 lbs Rye Malt (4.7 SRM) Grain 5 32.3 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 6 6.5 %
1 lbs Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 7 6.5 %
1 lbs Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) Grain 8 6.5 %
1.50 oz Summit [10.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 9 42.2 IBUs
1.00 oz Centennial [6.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 10 13.0 IBUs
1.00 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 mins) Fining 11 -
1.00 oz Cascade [3.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 12 3.1 IBUs
3.00 oz Willamette [5.50 %] - Aroma Steep 10.0 min Hop 13 0.0 IBUs

Beer Profile
Est Original Gravity: 1.057 SG Measured Original Gravity: 1.046 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.014 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.7 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 4.7 %
Bitterness: 58.2 IBUs Calories: 151.6 kcal/12oz
Est Color: 35.6 SRM

Mash Profile
Mash Name: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge Total Grain Weight: 15 lbs 8.0 oz
Sparge Water: 4.79 gal Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F Tun Temperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE Mash PH: 5.20

Mash Steps
Name Description Step Temperature Step Time
Mash In Add 23.38 qt of water at 165.3 F 152.0 F 60 min
Sparge Step: Batch sparge with 3 steps (Drain mash tun, , 2.39gal, 2.39gal) of 168.0 F water
Mash Notes: Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time).

Carbonation and Storage
Carbonation Type: Keg Volumes of CO2: 2.3
Pressure/Weight: 12.54 PSI Carbonation Used: Keg with 12.54 PSI
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 45.0 F Age for: 30.00 days
Fermentation: Ale, Single Stage Storage Temperature: 65.0 F

Notes

Created with BeerSmith

 

[Yooper]

32% rye is a bit much for my taste, and I love rye! I'd cut that down to 20% or so, depending on how much you love rye. That's too much chocolate malt for my taste as well, but if you love the roastiness it provdes that'd be ok. I'd definitely lower that and consider sinimar for color or dehusked carafa III to avoid that much roastiness. Two pounds of dark crystal (13%!) is also an awful lot, and very raisiny/toffee flavored.

I'd change up the hopping a bit- move the 30 minute addition to later in the boil for some flavor and aroma instead of all bittering. I don't think there are enough late hops to call this a rye IPA.

I'm assuming the lactic acid is for pH adjustment? But I don't know why the calcium chloride, unless your water really needs it. I'd probably skip the chloride and go with gypsum if your water needs the calcium (and some sulfate). It's hard to say without a water profile posted.

The recipe you have there is more of a rye American brown, with the boatload of dark crystal and chocolate and lack of late hops, although the willamette at flame out will be nice (earthyish).

 

[gwjames47]

32% rye is a bit much for my taste, and I love rye! I'd cut that down to 20% or so, depending on how much you love rye. That's too much chocolate malt for my taste as well, but if you love the roastiness it provdes that'd be ok. I'd definitely lower that and consider sinimar for color or dehusked carafa III to avoid that much roastiness. Two pounds of dark crystal (13%!) is also an awful lot, and very raisiny/toffee flavored.

I'd change up the hopping a bit- move the 30 minute addition to later in the boil for some flavor and aroma instead of all bittering. I don't think there are enough late hops to call this a rye IPA.

I'm assuming the lactic acid is for pH adjustment? But I don't know why the calcium chloride, unless your water really needs it. I'd probably skip the chloride and go with gypsum if your water needs the calcium (and some sulfate). It's hard to say without a water profile posted.

The recipe you have there is more of a rye American brown, with the boatload of dark crystal and chocolate and lack of late hops, although the willamette at flame out will be nice (earthyish).

Thanks for the advice, I will consider your suggestions and probably make some adjustments. As far as the water additions , I have a Ward Laboratories report and plugging the numbers into the EZ Water Calculator I need the 11 grams of calcium chloride

 

[Yooper]

Thanks for the advice, I will consider your suggestions and probably make some adjustments. As far as the water additions , I have a Ward Laboratories report and plugging the numbers into the EZ Water Calculator I need the 11 grams of calcium chloride

I really really don't think you "need" 11 grams of CaCl2. It depends on what you're going for, of course, but if you want to post your actual numbers for your water report I can take a look. In general, chloride enhances malt tones, giving a sort of sweeter finish and mouthfeel to the beer. Sulfate is commonly used to enhance hops, to provide a dryness to the beer to bring out the bitterness. Normally, you don't add chloride to an IPA unless you really need to change up the water. Of course, that's personal preference but it's something that I almost never see.

 

[gwjames47]

I really really don't think you "need" 11 grams of CaCl2. It depends on what you're going for, of course, but if you want to post your actual numbers for your water report I can take a look. In general, chloride enhances malt tones, giving a sort of sweeter finish and mouthfeel to the beer. Sulfate is commonly used to enhance hops, to provide a dryness to the beer to bring out the bitterness. Normally, you don't add chloride to an IPA unless you really need to change up the water. Of course, that's personal preference but it's something that I almost never see.

Yooper, here are my numbers from Ward's

Calcium 51
Magnesium 17
Sodium 118
Chloride 34
Sulphate 60 as reported SO4 -S entered 180 per EZ Water
Alkalinity 263

I was trying to stay in the mid range of suggested numbers. I can see that this may be the wrong approach depending on what style you are brewing.

Thanks, Greg

 

[Yooper]

Yooper, here are my numbers from Ward's

Calcium 51
Magnesium 17
Sodium 118
Chloride 34
Sulphate 60 as reported SO4 -S entered 180 per EZ Water
Alkalinity 263

I was trying to stay in the mid range of suggested numbers. I can see that this may be the wrong approach depending on what style you are brewing.

Thanks, Greg

Youch! 118 ppm of sodium? That needs to be diluted with RO water. You don't need any chloride added at all, and the alkalinity is way too high as well. The sulfate is also too high for quite a few beers, but not for an IPA.

I'd dilute that water at least 50% with RO water, and then add back some Calcium in either gypsum or calcium chloride, depending on the beer. But that water needs fixing for sure. Of course, that takes us off on a whole 'nother subject instead of the recipe, but I imagine that with that much sodium, sulfate, and alkalinity that most beers suffer from some sorts of off-flavors and I'd fix that as soon as possible. I like bru'nwater for water information as well as a great spreadsheet for water additions- I'd try that over the EZ water spreadsheet.

 

[gwjames47]

Youch! 118 ppm of sodium? That needs to be diluted with RO water. You don't need any chloride added at all, and the alkalinity is way too high as well. The sulfate is also too high for quite a few beers, but not for an IPA.

I'd dilute that water at least 50% with RO water, and then add back some Calcium in either gypsum or calcium chloride, depending on the beer. But that water needs fixing for sure. Of course, that takes us off on a whole 'nother subject instead of the recipe, but I imagine that with that much sodium, sulfate, and alkalinity that most beers suffer from some sorts of off-flavors and I'd fix that as soon as possible. I like bru'nwater for water information as well as a great spreadsheet for water additions- I'd try that over the EZ water spreadsheet.

Thanks, I realize now that my sodium is much to high, I just didn't know how high is to high. I have a Culligan RO system for our drinking water. I can use for my dilution water. I guess I should have a sample of that sent to Ward's so I know where I stand.

 

[Yooper]

Thanks, I realize now that my sodium is much to high, I just didn't know how high is to high. I have a Culligan RO system for our drinking water. I can use for my dilution water. I guess I should have a sample of that sent to Ward's so I know where I stand.

RO water is perfect! Then you can add some gypsum or calcium chloride to bring up the calcium level and be all set.