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Rebuilding My Brutus Hybrid Into a Kal Clone

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those tri-clover connections are so nice. i went with 2" on mine, even easier to snake the ripple element in/out. on my hlt, i take it out so i can move the kettle and dumpe the last little bit of water. then i set the kettle on the floor to dry with a towel. similar for the boil kettle. i use a plate chiller and clean it out after the brew day with recirculated pbw and actually set the boil element in the pbw to clean that as well (just the element portion, not all the wiring parts).

You know I just caught this. I made a mistake on a prior post (post # 169). I actually do have the 2 inch tri- clover connections for my ripple elements on my HLT and Boil kettles and NOT the 1 1/2 inch like I posted. You can see in post # 3 that 2 inch holes were made for the 2 inch tri- clover ferrules. I agree the 2 inch opening is a lot easier to snake the element in and out of the kettles.

John
 
All I can say is if you are building this type of herms system do yourself a favor and get the center inlet pump heads and save yourself some headaches!! I was also even able to recirculate boiling wort to sanitize my chiller and do a whirlpool during chilling.

Here are some pics of the two different pump heads: The center inlet is on the right and my old inline head is on the left.
View attachment 331238
Look at the small opening just to the upper left corner of the shaft in the left pump head, as compared to the much bigger center opening/hole surrounding the shaft in the center inlet pump head.
View attachment 331239

View attachment 331240

View attachment 331241
Brew day went smooth!
View attachment 331242

View attachment 331243
Recirculating during the mash.
View attachment 331244
The wort really cleared nicely.
View attachment 331245
Sparging
View attachment 331246
Oh yea I got a new Fermenter, first time using it instead of glass carboys, I really like it so far!
View attachment 331247

Bringing up an old post, but what is the headache that occurs when not using the center inlet pump?
 
What's the deciding factor (if using you're electric panel) when choosing 125 or 250VAC?
Location. If you live in a country where both 120V and 240V are available, I'd suggest going with a panel that supports those two as 120V pumps are easier to find in places like North America. Live in a country that only has 240V (no 120V) then you're forced to use a 240V panel and pumps.

All that said, if you think you may be moving from North America to (say) Europe where 120v isn't available, you can go with a 240V panel and use it in North America as long as you can get 240V pumps too. Completely up to you. At the end of the day there's no functional difference.

Note: When I say 120V it can vary from 100-125V or so, and when I say 240V it can vary from as low as 200V to as high as 250V.

Kal
 
So I committed one of my pet peeves and used you're instead of your*. I meant if I'm using one of your panels (such as this Op is doing), are both plugs capable of being plugged into that panel, Kal?
 
Bringing up an old post, but what is the headache that occurs when not using the center inlet pump?

Hi awoitte, for me it was night and day. When I used the non center inlet pump I had very low flow into the mash tun. It was to the point where it was almost as bad as a stuck mash. I did have some flow but it was barely a trickle. When I switched to the center inlet pump heads like Kal recommends I could run the pump to the mash tun full bore and the temp was easily kept at the mash temp I needed. No hassle and smooth sailing. I have a bleeder valve on both pumps and I used them for both type of pump heads and the problem was not getting them primed. It was that the non center inlet pump head could not handle moving the fluid to where it needed to be and the center inlet head just performed flawlessly. Kal has certain things he recommends in his build for a reason, it just flat out works! Hope this helps.


John
 
So I committed one of my pet peeves and used you're instead of your*.
We've all done that! ;)

I meant if I'm using one of your panels (such as this Op is doing), are both plugs capable of being plugged into that panel, Kal?
Gotcha! Sorry, no.

The pump receptacles in my 120/240V design supply 120V to the pumps since they're meant only to be used with 120V pumps. The receptacles are (usually) rated to 125V only and 120V is supplied. We use L5-15 (125V/15A) receptacles on this panel.

The pump receptacles in my 240V only design supply 240V to the pumps since they're meant only to be used with 240V pumps. The receptacles are different ase they need to support 240V (they are usually rated to 250V). We use L6-15 (250V/15A) receptacles on this panel.

The receptacles can't know what pump you're using (120V vs 240V) so they needs to be wired correctly in the first place to supply the proper voltage to the pumps you have.

That said, I'm confused and guessing a bit why you're asking all this. If you want to take this offline email me at [email protected] and we can discuss and not distract from this thread. Let me know why you're asking and I can help. Cheers!

Kal
 
@jcav! You embarked on this build 7+ years ago! I have a propane setup using keggles as well. Now that you have been brewing on this system for many years, what tweaks have you made with it?

I'm looking at adding a HERMs to my setup and going electric and this thread has been incredible wealth of information. I primarily brew 5 gallon batches. I currently have a March 315 pump which I could use to recirculate the HLT since I've not had problems using that to move my liquid around. For the HERMS I'll need to get one of the pumps recommended from The Electric Brewery.
 
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Hey @scubahiker! I absolutely love this rig. I still brew 10 gallons once a month and I am going on batch number 88 next month. This system rocks and I get the clearest wort into the boil kettle and ultimately into the fermenter. I have upgraded several things over the years. I have upgraded the valves on all the vessels to stainless butterfly valves as I only need them fully on or off. The valves on the pumps are the new Blichmann aseptic tri clamp valves. These valves are great and I can dial in precisely and balance both liquid levels during the sparge in both the mash tun and the boil kettle.

The march pumps that I have work great but you can use Chugger as well. I also have Kal's (from the Electric Brewery) new tri clamp electric heating elements. These were not available when I built my rig but the tri clamp versions are available now. I like that I can remove them for cleaning. Best of all though is that it is hard wired and does not use a plug. In the other type removeable heating elements the plug in type that I used to have heats up at the plug end too much and causes build up on the plugs and all sorts of issues so I got rid of them. Kal's tri clamp heating elements are built like tanks and very easy to replace and rewire if you have to replace a heating element as there is a lot of room in the box to work in.

I upgraded to double chillers also. One for the ground water (which is warm here in FLorida) and one for ice water that I use in the mash tun while chilling. This works great. You will love going electric and will never look back. I love this rig and Kal's system just flat out works! Good luck on your build and if you need anything or have questions just ask or pm me!

John

Here is a look at how my rig looks now.
rig.jpg
 
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