Re hydrating yeast

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Ron_Blackhurst

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Should I worry about re hydrating my yeast? Tomorrow is my first batch ever.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Home Brew mobile app
 
Should I worry about re hydrating my yeast? Tomorrow is my first batch ever.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Home Brew mobile app


Re hydrating makes sense.. And I have started doing it more often than not.

But I think Temp of wort when pitching, temp of wort during fermentation is a bigger deal.. and frankly, in 23 batches now since last June.. most of those were pitched with dry yeast, fermented fine and tasted great.
 
What I used to do for about a year, was just sprinkle the dry yeast on the cooled wort, cover lightly, do my clean up(about 20 minutes), then go back and stir in the yeast, then cap off with the airlock in place. Made some damn fine beer. But, I have been rehydrating, and it turns out it creates a better fermentation, less off flavors. Rehydrating, you do have to pay attention more to doing the right things(temps of the water for the yeast,etc)
Bottom line....If you want a good beer for your 1st attempt(less hassle)...sprinkle dry, but if you want an even better beer...rehydrate.
 
I'm guessing I want to pitch when my wort is at the yeasts optimal temp also?

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Yes. Pitch when your wort is close to your expected fermenting temp.

Rehydrating would be best, but not the most important. If everything is going smoothly, and you have the time, do it. No worries if you don't though.

You will have good beer.
 
For your first brew day, the best thing to do is not get too hung up on anything and make it through to the end. You're going to make mistakes. You're going to think of ways you could have made the session smoother. You're going to have ideas you want to implement next time.

That said, the things that I think are most important to focus on initially are: sanitation, pitch rate, fermentation temp, and patience.

You need to clean everything, and also sanitize everything that will touch your wort after the boil. PBW or Oxiclean are pretty standard for cleaning, and StarSan or Iodophor are used by many for sanitizing.

For an ale, you probably want to target a pitch rate of .75 million cells per ml per degree plato - easiest way to figure that part out is to consult a pitch rate calc like Mr. Malty. If you are using dry yeast, you should take note that pitching it without rehydrating can kill up to 50% of the yeast cells and you may want to consider pitching additional yeast to make up for that. Some people don't rehydrate, and don't pitch additional cells, and that is fine - the yeast will reproduce to the right size colony and make beer either way, but it doesn't make sense to me to kill half of the population before you even get started.

Yeast will make the best tasting beer when you help control temperatures to the lower end of the yeast's ideal range. For most ale yeasts, that is in the low-to-mid 60's. If you have a temperature controller, you can hook that up to a fridge. If not, you can place your fermentor into a rubbermaid tote full of water and use frozen 2L bottles to control the temp - look up "swamp cooler" on here and you'll see what I mean. The beer temperature is what you want to keep track of and control, not the ambient temperature. Fermentation is exothermic, so the beer will be warmer than the ambient temp, especially during the most active part of fermentation.

Patience... If you've done everything else right, your beer will need 7-10 days to finish fermenting and clean up fermentation byproducts. Many people leave their beer in the primary fermentor for 2-3 weeks (some longer) before bottling or kegging. Use a hydrometer to know when it is done - two readings taken over a 3 day span that are identical means your beer is done. If you are bottling, the beer will need around 3 weeks at 70F to fully carbonate. Then you can move a bottle to the fridge to cool and test to make sure it's ready. If so, toss a few more in the fridge for a few days to cool and let any chill haze form and settle out - you'll have clear, well carbonated beer as a reward for your patience.
 
Ron_Blackhurst said:
Should I worry about re hydrating my yeast? Tomorrow is my first batch ever. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Home Brew mobile app

There's a popular mantra in home brewing circles which stresses not worrying. I've noticed rehydrated yeast seems to kick off fermentation a bit quicker. If you have the chance, go a head and rehydrate. If you're feeling a bit overwhelmed with your first beer - we all do, but there's really no reason to - then skip it.

I rehydrate about 50% of the time and always with bigger beers. Try and have the rehydration water at the ideal temp and begin rehydration when you start chilling your wort. That usually how I do it.

What kind of beer? which yeast?

Have fun on your first beer! Don't stress!
 
The beer is an American wheat and the yeast is safe us-05

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Safale US-05 is a pretty forgiving yeast, making it a great choice for new brewers (it's great for experienced brewers too, but that's not the point right now). If you decide not to rehydrate the yeast first, it won't be the end of the world, but it's really pretty easy. This post goes over rehydrating and also covers some basic questions many people have about using dry yeast. As far as cooling the rehydrated yeast slurry to pitching temp, I usually do that by taking a little bit of cooled wort and mixing it into the slurry (just enough to bring the temp down 5-10 degrees), and it if still needs to cool more, wait 5 minutes and repeat. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy.
 
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