Question about corny keg carbonating

[bobbycheetah]

I just kegged a Brewer's Best kit - American Amber Ale. It is in my basement which is at 66 deg F. The CO2 chart I have only goes up to 65 deg, but for that, it shows that 24 psi should put it at a volume of 2.23. If i do this: how long should it take to be carb'd? After that many days, if I then put it in the fridge, and after it gets nice and cold, then the only thing I should have to do is use just enough pressure for serving - right? Thanks!

 

[wepeeler]

CO2 dissolves easier when your beer is cold. I would put it on say 10-15psi to seal the O Rings and put the keg in your fridge/keezer.

My personal carbing schedule is keg, purge headspace, 30psi for 24 hours, 20 psi for another 24 hours, then down to serving pressure, around 10-12 psi. Serving pressure varies depending on tube diameter and length.

 

[bobbycheetah]

Thx for the reply. Typically, i put it on 12 psi and keep in fridge for 3 days. Then dial it back just a little for server. Right now, I don't have room in my fridge. So keeping it basement until I'm ready to put it in the fridge.

 

[doug293cz]

Here's a little calculator you can use when the temp of the beer is too high for the charts. Remember, all the air has to be purged out of the headspace for the carb level to come out right.

Also, it's best to serve at the pressure which gives you the desired carb level, at the temperature of the beer. That way you won't lose or gain carbonation over time.

Brew on

 

[oldsccorpio227]

desired carb level,

How do I determine desired carb level? I am new to kegging and just kegged IPA and it looks a bit overcarbonated. I did 12PSI for a week at 39F

 

[doug293cz]

12 psi @ 39°F will give you a touch over 2.5 volumes when it reaches equilibrium. It usually takes about 3 weeks to reach equilibrium, but carbonation starts out fast and slows down as you get closer to equilibrium.

2.5 volumes is a good carb level for an IPA, but personal preference plays a big role. If you want a lower level of carb, you can turn the pressure down, and vent the headspace every hour for a couple of days. Turn the gas off during the venting process to minimize the total amount of CO2 used. Taste test the beer (right before the next vent cycle, as you won't have pressure to push the beer immediately after venting) and stop the periodic venting when the beer is carbed the way you want it.

Brew on

 

[oldsccorpio227]

I can see from the chart what the volume is but how do you know if it is good or not? When I poor me a glass, 2/3 of it was just head and rest is beer

 

[doug293cz]

I can see from the chart what the volume is but how do you know if it is good or not? When I poor me a glass, 2/3 of it was just head and rest is beer

Lots of foam when you pour is most often caused by beer lines that are too short (or warm.) The lines need to be long enough to create a pressure drop during serving that just about equals the serving pressure. You also need to make sure that your tubing isn't too large an inside diameter, as larger diameter gives less pressure drop per foot of length (so you need much more length to tame the foam.)

The most common beer line is the Bevlex type 3/16" ID vinyl tubing. This line has a pressure drop of about 1 psi/ft, so if you are at 12 PSI, you would need about 12' of line. You can find a more precise calculator here. In no case should you use line larger than 3/16" ID, unless you have very long tubing runs, and know exactly what you are doing.

There is a newer type of beverage line that should be used for new installations or rebuilds. This is the EVA Barrier tubing, and has an ID of 4mm (0.1575" vs. 0.1875" for 3/16" ID), so this takes less tubing length at the same PSI as the older standard. The EVA tubing also has much lower oxygen permeability compared to vinyl, and protects your beer from oxidation much better.

Brew on

 

[oldsccorpio227]

I have Danby Kegerator, didn't modify hose lines, whatever it had I didn't change it.

 

[doug293cz]

I have Danby Kegerator, didn't modify hose lines, whatever it had I didn't change it.

Commercial kegerators are notorious for being supplied with beer lines that are too short.

Brew on

 

[oldsccorpio227]

it looks like I need about 10 feet lines at least, right?

 

[doug293cz]

it looks like I need about 10 feet lines at least, right?

Yes, for 3/16" ID tubing. If you switch to the smaller 4mm EVA Barrier tubing, it would only take about 5 ft. It is always better to start a little longer than you think you need, and then shorten the line if your pours are taking significantly longer than 10 seconds.

Brew on

 

[oldsccorpio227]

Got another question. Was working on trying to replace the beer line with 10 ft but I am not able to take the top off the dispensing tower, not sure if it is glued or something else. Did anybody try to add lines to the existing lines? I know the best would be to replace but I am not able to take the top off.

 

[day_trippr]

Tower caps are typically just a friction fit. Try heating the cap with a hair drier...

Cheers!

 

[Bobby_M]

You can also push a dowel or similar up into the tower from below and give it a tap with a hammer to pop the cap up and off the tower.

 

[oldsccorpio227]

You can also push a dowel or similar up into the tower from below and give it a tap with a hammer to pop the cap up and off the tower.

tried and nothing.

Tower caps are typically just a friction fit. Try heating the cap with a hair drier...

Cheers!

tried, even tried a screwdriver but nothing