pressure relief valve
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universalfrost
Keep your stick on the ice.
Brewhardware has some great spunding valves that he tweaked for better relief
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/spundingvalve.htm
this is what you will also need
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ptrcarboyecon.htm
or the deluxe version
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ptrcarboypremium.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/spundingvalve.htm
this is what you will also need
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ptrcarboyecon.htm
or the deluxe version
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ptrcarboypremium.htm
universalfrost
Keep your stick on the ice.
i think he wants to transfer under slight pressure...
It sure sounds like the OP wants to try a full-on spunded carboy fermentation, which I would suggest is an imprudent course.
And that's coming from someone who is a big fan of 6.5g italian glass and does CO2-pushed transfers routinely...
Cheers!
And that's coming from someone who is a big fan of 6.5g italian glass and does CO2-pushed transfers routinely...
Cheers!
So let me clarify what I am planning to do. I have read about doing closed fermentations in a keg, and using a second keg with a spunding valve to have an entirely closed fermentation and transfer done. I'm considering using a glass carboy going to a keg instead, and using a spunding valve to keep the pressure at around 1psi in the keg. My obvious concern in using glass and the possibility of any kind of malfunction.
universalfrost
Keep your stick on the ice.
pressurized fermentation in a glass carboy is basically a ticking bomb... don't do it!... 
get a fermentasaurus (they are about $120 shipped at morebeer etc... ) then get the spunding valve and the pressurized fermentation lid for the fermenter (ebay for under $40)...
safe and simple pressurized fermentation... no chance of a glass and beer bomb....
get a fermentasaurus (they are about $120 shipped at morebeer etc... ) then get the spunding valve and the pressurized fermentation lid for the fermenter (ebay for under $40)...
safe and simple pressurized fermentation... no chance of a glass and beer bomb....
While I would never leave a glass carboy under pressure, there are a lot of homebrewers who consider $120 to be a lot of money. My 7 gallon buckets cost $.50 each.
What about this? What if I use a keg as a pass-thru in between my blow off tube and an airlock? So blowoff tube connected to qd on liquid post, qd on gas side with tube going to airlock?
My goal is to have a fully o2 flushed keg to transfer to, better than the other methods.
My goal is to have a fully o2 flushed keg to transfer to, better than the other methods.
An airlock on the other side would be good. I still wouldn't use a glass carboy to ferment under pressure.
Flushing the serving keg with fermentation co2 sounds like a great idea to me. Here is a popular thread discussing the method here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/pressurized-closed-loop-corny-keg-fermenting.600563/
Flushing the serving keg with fermentation co2 sounds like a great idea to me. Here is a popular thread discussing the method here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/pressurized-closed-loop-corny-keg-fermenting.600563/
Where from?
There is a food processing plant a few blocks from my house, "Advanced Food Products". They sold several truckloads of used buckets to my boss for $.50 each, who then let me have what I wanted for free. I still count them as 50 cent buckets, even though I didn't pay for them.
The "spunding valves" I seen (and built) rely upon a rather crude device that I would never rely upon to protect glass.
If one wants to maintain a modest pressure I recommend using a source that's so limited: for example, I use a Marshall two-stage 11" WC (~ 0.4 psi) regulator on my glass during cold-crashing.
Even then, I employ a "pneumatic fuse" just in case something goes pear shaped...
Cheers!
If one wants to maintain a modest pressure I recommend using a source that's so limited: for example, I use a Marshall two-stage 11" WC (~ 0.4 psi) regulator on my glass during cold-crashing.
Even then, I employ a "pneumatic fuse" just in case something goes pear shaped...
Cheers!
What's your transfer process? Clearly you have a closed fermentation but what about when going to the keg? Or is that just for cold crashing to avoid o2?
No, I don't use this for active fermenting - don't need it then. Once fermentation has reached terminal gravity I slap this rig on and keep it there through dry-hopping and then cold-crashing.
It's strictly an oxidation avoidance thing and I already had pretty much everything needed to do it already anyway. I'm convinced not allowing air to suck into the fermentors during cold-crashing significantly extends the shelf-life of my beers...
[edit] shoot, totally managed not to answer the question
I do CO2-pushed racking to purged kegs, being very cautious about it and always wearing safety glasses, placing the carboy above the receiving keg (ie: not pushing up hill) and basically using gravity to do the work with the gas set to just backfill the increasing head space...
Cheers!
It's strictly an oxidation avoidance thing and I already had pretty much everything needed to do it already anyway. I'm convinced not allowing air to suck into the fermentors during cold-crashing significantly extends the shelf-life of my beers...
[edit] shoot, totally managed not to answer the question
I do CO2-pushed racking to purged kegs, being very cautious about it and always wearing safety glasses, placing the carboy above the receiving keg (ie: not pushing up hill) and basically using gravity to do the work with the gas set to just backfill the increasing head space...
Cheers!
Last edited:
But you still get oxygen in the tubing, capping process, and dry hopping steps, am I right?No, I don't use this for active fermenting - don't need it then. Once fermentation has reached terminal gravity I slap this rig on and keep it there through dry-hopping and then cold-crashing.
It's strictly an oxidation avoidance thing and I already had pretty much everything needed to do it already anyway. I'm convinced not allowing air to suck into the fermentors during cold-crashing significantly extends the shelf-life of my beers...
[edit] shoot, totally managed not to answer the question
I do CO2-pushed racking to purged kegs, being very cautious about it and always wearing safety glasses, placing the carboy above the receiving keg (ie: not pushing up hill) and basically using gravity to do the work with the gas set to just backfill the increasing head space...
View attachment 570386
Cheers!
My interest is getting a completely oxygen free (or close to it) fermentation with dry hopping, on all my ipa's
For transfers, I flush the tubing from the fermentor end before hooking it up to the already purged keg. I doubt there's significant O2 ingress through the tubing in the time it takes to fill a keg.
"Capping process"? I don't bottle.
For the dry hop additions there's likely some small amount of air getting in during the brief moment the carboy neck is open. No easy way around that but I suspect the impact is verging on negligible...
Cheers!
"Capping process"? I don't bottle.
For the dry hop additions there's likely some small amount of air getting in during the brief moment the carboy neck is open. No easy way around that but I suspect the impact is verging on negligible...
Cheers!
I meant capping with the orange cap. But I suppose you do that prior, but you still need to putthe racking cane in, how to avoid o2 then?
Remember the fermentors have been on low pressure CO2 for days before racking, so the headspace is pretty much straight CO2. I stuff the cane in the cap and flush it and the tubing before hooking up to the keg...
Cheers!
Cheers!
At atmospheric pressure you’d need to flush the keg with about 7x the volume to get down to .02% O2 which is about where you’d be by filling with Starsan and pushing it out with 99.9% pure CO2 (beverage grade is 99.9%). I don’t know how much CO2 fermentation produces but I’d be surprised if it’s 35gal. I’d imagine there’s a way to calculate it based on OG and FG.
The back of my envelope says about 190 gallons of CO2 from a 20l (5.28 gal) fermentation, going from 1.050 to 1.010 (assuming 6.5% by original weight of maltose gets fermented, and using the Ideal Gas Law). But it's been almost 40 years since my introductory chemistry class, so I could be wrong.
Yeah there's alot of data suggesting that using co2 from fermentation would flush the serving keg better than any other method. My next planned endeavor is todo a fully closed fermentation and transfer between 2 kegs, purging the serving keg prior, with dry hops in a ss hopper.
Well dang, if that calculation is correct I was way off and just might give this a shot. Transfer day would be simplified, everything would be assembled, sanitary and purged. Swap the line from the fermenter lid to the fermenter spigot and you're filling the keg.
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