Pre Assembled RIMS controller from Amazon.com

[RyanKC]

Im in the process of planning a Rims. I haven't decided to build the controller my self. In doing my research I came across this yesterday on Amazon. It's a 120v Rims controller for $189. Im curious to know what you guys think or if anyone has used it.
If i went this rout, to prevent dry firing the element, i think i would set up a single switch that powered a pump and the controller. Your thoughts?
http://www.amazon.com/120v-Electric-Mash-RIMS-Controller/dp/B00KLWH2EY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418928182&sr=8-1&keywords=rims+controller&pebp=1418928183927

 

[thekraken]

I would just build this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/step-step-build-110v-portable-pid-controller-379938/

Though I'm all about DIY lately and am kind of biased.

What size element are you going to be using?

 

[JustLooking]

Call me a cynic, but the two absurdly positive reviews on Amazon and "I came across this" from a member with five posts, combined with a ridiculously high price, I smell a rat.

 

[RyanKC]

I would just build this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/step-step-build-110v-portable-pid-controller-379938/

Though I'm all about DIY lately and am kind of biased.

What size element are you going to be using?

I would also prefer to DIY, but got i got really overwhelmed with all the complicated builds on here..... UNTIL you showed me that tread!!! that's fantastic!! Very easy to follow. I searched through many controller builds and that thread never popped up. Thank you

I plan on using a 240V 5500 watt element from https://www.brewhardware.com but wired at 120v. That makes it a 1400 watt element. At least thats what they say
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500.htm

 

[RyanKC]

Call me a cynic, but the two absurdly positive reviews on Amazon and "I came across this" from a member with five posts, combined with a ridiculously high price, I smell a rat.

OK, Cynic
I am by no means affiliated, i can assure you of that. What? you've never came across something online and was curious and looked for some input. Thanks for the help guy.
Yes, i have five post, only been brewing for about a year. I've been on this forum for the same amount of time and never got too involved with it until recently.
I do agree with you about the positive reviews, didnt take much stock in them. Hence the reason i brought it here for review

 

[Bobby_M]

On of the reviews was posted by the guy selling the unit. Frankly, based on the number of times he has come in here with a fake account to post threads similar to this one, I'm suspect every single time "someone" posts anything asking about it. All I'll say is buyer beware. The guy is a scam artist.

 

[Weezy]

If 120V is enough power for what you're doing, I'd just go with one of these from Williams. Simpler, easier to use, and only $85:

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/BREWERS-EDGE-MASH-HEAT-CONTROL-P3709.aspx

 

[thekraken]

Cutting it close on the amps with that one.

[Edit]
"Plugs into any GFCI protected wall outlet with a rating of 15 amps or more. Rated at 13 amps, the Mash Heat Control can handle an electric heating element of up to 1800 watts. "

The math don't seem right here.

 

[RyanKC]

On of the reviews was posted by the guy selling the unit. Frankly, based on the number of times he has come in here with a fake account to post threads similar to this one, I'm suspect every single time "someone" posts anything asking about it. All I'll say is buyer beware. The guy is a scam artist.

WOW!
When i started this thread it didnt even occur to me that it would be perceived as a scam. I can see now how it looks to be, but trust me, my intentions were pure. In fact, you saying he's done this before, has made up my mind. thanks for the warning.
As stated above, im leaning towards the DIY direction that thekraken showed me.

 

[thekraken]

If i went this rout, to prevent dry firing the element, i think i would set up a single switch that powered a pump and the controller. Your thoughts?

I'd still do this part. I'd also make sure everything is rated for 20 amps.

 

[atoughram]

Wow... Mr. Hargrave isnt cheap is he...

 

[thekraken]

Well now... that was ammusingly suspicious! Where'd you come from?

 

[thekraken]

 

[RyanKC]

See.... I told you I wasn't "that dude".

 

[Hello]

OP, I'd say that the controller is questionable here. Can it really run a 5500w 240v element? Also, I'd want a 20 a 120v not a 15. You're really hitting the threshold I believe. At least that's what I've learned. Contact brumatic.com and see about building this similar controller to suit your needs and current electrical availability. He's a great guy over there.

I monitor this forum as well as a few others. As a manufacturer I use what I find to gauge how well our products are doing. I could care less ...

So you could care just a little less still? Just getting a baseline on the level of denial you're in.

about the bashing and the BS but I do have an issue with outright lies.



And BTW, the ones who run this forum have a right to be pissed at me. My on-line business failed and I hurt a lot of people in the process. But they aren't pissed because I failed, they are pissed because I failed and I'm still around. They can get over it because I really don't care.

Oh I don't know Tom. Seems to me that this is more than some sort of displaced envy of a guy who failed with many signs pointing to a scam. In fact, I'd wager a guess here and figure it is because you continue to return and continued to use and milk this community in ways no man or woman should. You really should "monitor" from a distance and stop feeling some odd need to defend your actions as it really is all in vain. Your name is quite tarnished and I seriously doubt the defense you seem to believe you have will fix anything.


http://www.bbb.org/northern-alabama...tom-hargrave-sales-in-huntsville-al-900050886

 

[Weezy]

Cutting it close on the amps with that one.

[Edit]
"Plugs into any GFCI protected wall outlet with a rating of 15 amps or more. Rated at 13 amps, the Mash Heat Control can handle an electric heating element of up to 1800 watts. "

The math don't seem right here.

Yeah I know. For mash temp control, you don't need all that power anyway. Get a 4kW to 5kW 240V unit and run it at 1kW-1.2kW.

 

[Hello]

Yeah I know. For mash temp control, you don't need all that power anyway. Get a 4kW to 5kW 240V unit and run it at 1kW-1.2kW.

But when you plug that control box in, won't it draw full power for a brief second? Even if he's not running his heating element at full power, which in his description he was going to use a 5500w element.

 

[RyanKC]

But when you plug that control box in, won't it draw full power for a brief second? Even if he's not running his heating element at full power, which in his description he was going to use a 5500w element.

I will be wiring that 240v 5500w element to 120v. Im no electrician, but i read that stepping down a 240v element to 120v will cause you to use only 25% of the original watts. So that would take 5500w down to 1375w. By my calculations (1375w/120v=11.46) that would cause it to pull 11.5 amps. Again im no expert.... is this logic solid or out to lunch?

I am planning on wiring my controller for 20amps. That should leave me plenty to also incorporate a pump, right??

 

[dyqik]

I will be wiring that 240v 5500w element to 120v. Im no electrician, but i read that stepping down a 240v element to 120v will cause you to use only 25% of the original watts. So that would take 5500w down to 1375w. By my calculations (1375w/120v=11.46) that would cause it to pull 11.5 amps. Again im no expert.... is this logic solid or out to lunch?

I am planning on wiring my controller for 20amps. That should leave me plenty to also incorporate a pump, right??

That's all correct. A 5500kW 240V element has a resistance of 10.5 Ohm (P = V²/R => R = V²/P), so it can't pass more than 11.5 A on 120V.

 

[Hello]

I will be wiring that 240v 5500w element to 120v. Im no electrician, but i read that stepping down a 240v element to 120v will cause you to use only 25% of the original watts. So that would take 5500w down to 1375w. By my calculations (1375w/120v=11.46) that would cause it to pull 11.5 amps. Again im no expert.... is this logic solid or out to lunch?

I am planning on wiring my controller for 20amps. That should leave me plenty to also incorporate a pump, right??

Oh well that makes a bit more sense.
On principal though, I'd find another vendor.

 

[Bobby_M]

I monitor this forum as well as a few others. As a manufacturer I use what I find to gauge how well our products are doing. I could care less about the bashing and the BS but I do have an issue with outright lies.

And BTW, the ones who run this forum have a right to be pissed at me. My on-line business failed and I hurt a lot of people in the process. But they aren't pissed because I failed, they are pissed because I failed and I'm still around. They can get over it because I really don't care.

EVERYONE has the right to be pissed, especially the people you ripped off. The only way to even begin making it right is to identify all the people who lost their money and make them whole again.

The problem that extends far beyond that past issue is that you continue to use deception to boost your sales. You're so slimy that it probably doesn't even register on your moral compass, but posing as a potential inquisitive customer of the products you sell and linking back to them is pretty high on the scum scale, even when it's expected.

Fact: you've posed as someone else here at LEAST 3 times and who knows how many more times where you actually got away with it.

Even if your products were good, you by very definition are a bad person and buying those products are setting the knowing customer up as an accomplice to all that is wrong with the world.

I said good day sir!

 

[RyanKC]

OK, im gonna shift the focus of this thread to.... helping me build the controller for my RIMS tube.
I think it has been established that the seller on Amazon has issues and the product is just not what im looking for.
Thanks to thekraken i was shown this thread:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/ste...roller-379938/

I like the simplicity of it. But have some questions/concerns
1) is it safe? I see a lot of other controllers with emergency stops,breakers, fuses and terminals. Do I need that stuff.
2) Its not wired up for a pump.

So here is a modified drawing of the original. All i did was add another receptacle/switch for a pump.

Your thoughts and input will be greatly appreciated. Cheers

 

[thekraken]

I'd wire it so the element can't fire unless the pump is switched on. I couldn't find a decent price on those kinds of receptacles at 20A, a $10 contactor would solve that problem.

 

[stlbeer]

If I'm looking at this right, When you turn off the element outlet switch, you will cut the flow of electricity from the SSR. OK. But that will also cut the power to the PID since it is wired after the switch. That may or may no be what you wanted. i.e. you might be interested in knowing the temperature of the wort while still running the pump. The neutrals and grounds look fine.

One more thought, make sure all of the wires that will carry the amperage for the element, based on it's rating and the voltage you're going to run it at, are gauged to handle that amperage. I would also make sure you were using on a GFCI circuit because you never know when you'll need it.

If you're interested, I have made a couple of these using old ammo boxes and would be happy to share the schematic. PM me if interested.

Paul

 

[RyanKC]

I'd wire it so the element can't fire unless the pump is switched on. I couldn't find a decent price on those kinds of receptacles at 20A, a $10 contactor would solve that problem.

yes, that would be optimal. But i'm so "electrically challenged" i dont know what a contactor is

 

[Fatman_Brew]

In overly simplistic terms, a contactor is a relay (electronically controlled switch). Used to control higher voltage/amperage circuits.

 

[Bobby_M]

First, it would be better to use one double switch device and one duplex outlet. That way you don't have to flip switches with plugs in the way. You'd put the outlets off on the back of a box out of the way.