Got busy at work but had to check in. With all the troubleshooting that's been done I would agree. It has to be an over carb issue. Good new is that you caught a mid day buzz.
Degas and try again in 24 hours
Please help a kegging newbie-CO2 coming out of beer in liquid line
- Thread starter KaanX
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Got busy at work but had to check in. With all the troubleshooting that's been done I would agree. It has to be an over carb issue. Good new is that you caught a mid day buzz.
Degas and try again in 24 hours
Normally a beer wouldn't over-carb at 12psi but could it be possible the IPA wasn't completely done fermenting and kicked back up when it was kegged?
Geez, I thought i posted this last night, apparently forgot to hit "Post."
I was intrigued by the "5-second" pour, so decided to time my own pour to see what I'd get.
Ten Seconds. That was a 12-oz glass with about 3/4" of head on it.
Since KaanX is pouring in five seconds, that suggests there's a lot of pressure behind that beer. The lines should be long enough to provide enough back pressure to combat foam.
I once had a foaming problem similar to KaanX's. As part of the diagnosis process I bought a pressure gauge, attached a barb to it, then connected it to a Gas QD. That would let me see what pressure I had inside the keg. The idea is to let the keg sit for 24 hours so the headspace reaches an equilibrium with the carbonation in the beer. Put the pressure gauge on the gas post, and voila! You can see where you're at.
Pic below. How did it get overcarbed? If the regulator is inaccurate, that's one way--though the fact that the other keg is not overcarbed pretty much scotches that theory. Another way is what Bleme suggests above--the beer wasn't finished fermenting and sealing the beer in a keg carbonated it similarly to how it happens in a bottle.
While the pic below probably isn't helpful now for KaanX, it might be something to acquire parts for and build so the next time, there's a way to test.
I was intrigued by the "5-second" pour, so decided to time my own pour to see what I'd get.
Ten Seconds. That was a 12-oz glass with about 3/4" of head on it.
Since KaanX is pouring in five seconds, that suggests there's a lot of pressure behind that beer. The lines should be long enough to provide enough back pressure to combat foam.
I once had a foaming problem similar to KaanX's. As part of the diagnosis process I bought a pressure gauge, attached a barb to it, then connected it to a Gas QD. That would let me see what pressure I had inside the keg. The idea is to let the keg sit for 24 hours so the headspace reaches an equilibrium with the carbonation in the beer. Put the pressure gauge on the gas post, and voila! You can see where you're at.
Pic below. How did it get overcarbed? If the regulator is inaccurate, that's one way--though the fact that the other keg is not overcarbed pretty much scotches that theory. Another way is what Bleme suggests above--the beer wasn't finished fermenting and sealing the beer in a keg carbonated it similarly to how it happens in a bottle.
While the pic below probably isn't helpful now for KaanX, it might be something to acquire parts for and build so the next time, there's a way to test.
PapaO
Well-Known Member
Start with this first. http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/
If you want to use 1/4 in. beer line you will need 40 ft. or 11 ft. of 3/16.
PapaO
If you want to use 1/4 in. beer line you will need 40 ft. or 11 ft. of 3/16.
PapaO
I think that is overly conservative. The usual rule of thumb I'm aware of is 10 feet of 1/4", 5 feet of 3/16".
I have exactly that on my system, both 1/4" and 3/16" and they work fine.
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Your system isn't balanced. Switch to 3/16" ID line and I bet your problems resolve. Start at 12' and decrease length as needed if you find your pours are too slow. For me, 10' of 3/16" ID line running 12 psi is perfect.
I've never heard of this rule of thumb, and I highly doubt it could be correct. 3/16" tubing has roughly four times the resistance per foot of 1/4" tubing. Thus, it wouldn't make sense to only have twice as long of a line when switching from 3/16" to 1/4".
I've actually read that several places.
All I know is that 1/4" at 10 feet works on my system, and 3/16" at 5 feet works as well. I'm sure 3/16" at 10 feet would work, just pour slower everything else being equal.
All that aside, OP swapped the serving line w/ the keg that pours fine, and since it works fine there, that suggests to me it's not the line that's the problem.
frettfreak
Well-Known Member
after reading through this post, looks like over carb to me. though i would definitely try going to 3/16 beer line on a shorter run anyway. I had an issue like this once but it ended up being an airleak at the shank and tap that was messing things up.
The most recent posts are correct about line diameter. 1/4" line will not serve you well unless you have severely under carbonated beer.
The line creates resistance, and the resistance drops dramatically as diameter increases. You need 3/16 line, or possibly more pressure. If you increase the pressure to 20 psi and do a pour as an experiment (it'll be ****, because this is too high), but you should notice that the bubbles in the line will eventually go away at this higher psi.
There is a balance to be struck. Too much pressure and it blows up coming out of the faucet. Too "little" pressure with not enough line resistance and it will foam in the line. You usually only see 1/4 line in commercial setups running 50+ feet line line with glycol, and they serve at a minimum pressure of 15 psi.
I would try smaller line as suggested, and start with 10'.
The line creates resistance, and the resistance drops dramatically as diameter increases. You need 3/16 line, or possibly more pressure. If you increase the pressure to 20 psi and do a pour as an experiment (it'll be ****, because this is too high), but you should notice that the bubbles in the line will eventually go away at this higher psi.
There is a balance to be struck. Too much pressure and it blows up coming out of the faucet. Too "little" pressure with not enough line resistance and it will foam in the line. You usually only see 1/4 line in commercial setups running 50+ feet line line with glycol, and they serve at a minimum pressure of 15 psi.
I would try smaller line as suggested, and start with 10'.
You could also try these epoxy mixers inserted in the dip tube:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=100151
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=100151
PapaO
Well-Known Member
OP I don't think you are over carbed. Only change one thing at a time and start with your beer line. Get your pour time over 10 seconds per pint first.
Thanks everybody for the ideas 
Unfortunately, only hoses I have (and could find) are 1/4 diameter ones.
I already ordered a roll of 3/16 hose from Amazon, but it will take around 20 days to arrive
So the only thing I could try while waiting it to arrive is degassing the IPA.
The fact that there are no problems with the other beer indicates that there is a problem with the IPA itself. We'll see tomorrow, I just disconnected it's gas line and I'm releasing the pressure every couple of hours.
The beer line, shank and faucet are the same for both beers, because I only have one yet
I switch it between kegs as a temporary solution. (More faucets are on the way with the 3/16 line...)
Unfortunately, only hoses I have (and could find) are 1/4 diameter ones.
I already ordered a roll of 3/16 hose from Amazon, but it will take around 20 days to arrive
So the only thing I could try while waiting it to arrive is degassing the IPA.
The fact that there are no problems with the other beer indicates that there is a problem with the IPA itself. We'll see tomorrow, I just disconnected it's gas line and I'm releasing the pressure every couple of hours.
The beer line, shank and faucet are the same for both beers, because I only have one yet
I switch it between kegs as a temporary solution. (More faucets are on the way with the 3/16 line...)
Assuming your keg lids have a typical pressure relief valve, you should be able to pull up on that and turn it which keeps it open.
I'd try that for about 6-8 hours and then reconnect the gas and see where you're at.
