rmullins said:If you have 58 degree hose water you should have no issue going into the fermenter in a single pass.
day_trippr said:I think the ideal plate chiller set up includes a thermometer teed into the wort output, a control valve in the wort path (if using a pump, a valve on its output will work) and a valve on the water path.
If the output wort temp is too high, you throttle the wort side until it comes down to ideal temp. Otoh, if the wort output is too low, you throttle the water side until the wort temp comes up to the desired temp.
As for keeping the plate chiller full, that's going to depend on its orientation. I have my long chiller mounted vertically with the wort entering at the bottom and exiting at the top, so any air should be expelled and no matter the rate of wort flow its side should be full. The water side flows top to bottom, but running it wide open at the start should blow any air out, and then I can control its flow with a valve at the bottom end.
Things could get more complicated when a plate chiller is mounted horizontally...
Cheers!
DavidR said:I follow the following procedure, which is very close to yours:
Recirculate wort through plumbing and plate chiller until the output temp reaches inlet temp (~198F). Spray the keggle with a mist of water to cool hot metal parts so I don't waste cooling power on the kettle.
Turn on recirculating ice bath pump (1440gph pump in cooler 20lbs (for 5 gallons of wort) of ice and a few gallons of water).
Wort recirculates back into kettle forming whirlpool.
Once temp reaches ~60F in the kettle (for ales), turn off both pumps and let it settle. After 10-15 minutes, drain kettle (no real need to pass it through wort chiller again, and the 60F creates a great cold break).
Cooling takes about 6 minutes, so 15-20 minutes after I start knockout, the wort goes into the keggle.
For 10 gallon batches, just double everything ( 12 minutes to cool, and 40lbs of ice).
I've had zero complaints from judges about oxidation , and no infections using this method (5 years and counting).
Bottom line, everyone has their on comfortable way of doing it. If your method works for you, and it produces good results, just keep on that track.
so you're submerging your plate chiller in ice/water?
3Card said:Easiest way I've found to monitor the temps is with a thrumometer (check northern brewer or more beer sites) attached inline to the wort output hose between the chiller and fermenter. Very quick temp readings, easy to clean, and hooks right into the line (3/8" ID) without any effort. Ball valve between pump and chiller controls wort flow ( though post chiller is better to maintain back pressure and keep chiller full), and second valve at water inlet to slow water flow as needed on the fly to dial in the temp. Takes me less than 10 min to transfer 10 gallons into fermenters this way with 58 deg water. You can always use an old IC coil submerged in an ice bath prechiller if your water temp is too warm....
HangLoose said:I can't see the harm in recirculating. My thinking is that the temperature shock is happening in the plate chiller, then the wort is pumped back into the kettle to cool the rest of the wort (and be rewarmed in the process). Cold break should be forming in the plate chiller. Immersion chillers get good cold break and this wouldn't be any slower so this seems like a non issue to me. Even doing this for a few minutes should cool the wort 20 degrees or more, making it easier to cool to pitching temperature. Since you will be cooling the kettle too, recirculating should take a little longer. If you can do it in one pass recirculating is probably be a waste of time.
This said, I have a 40 plate chiller too (duda diesel) and even with cold water I'd like the wort temp into the tormenter to be as low a possible so I will probably try recirculating for five min or so just to drive that temp as low as I can get it. I have a well too so water usage is less of a concern to me.