Planning My First All Grain - Too Many Questions!

[nobita]

Hey all,

I guess I am fully hooked on this brewing thing now. I'm planning my first all grain batch which will be my third batch overall. This will be a clone of Lagunitas Lil Sumpin Sumpin Ale. I listened to The Jamil Show for details and I'm even planning to toast a bit of the wheat malt in my oven

My questions are:

1) The recipes calls for a 6 gallon batch with a 90 minute boil. I only have an 8 gallon pot, so I'm guessing I won't have enough room to finish with 6 gallons. Should I just scale down the recipe to 5 gallons, or maybe reduce the boil time? I just finished my trial version of beersmith so I guess it's time to spring the for software so I can convert. Beside just quantities of ingredients anything specific I should watch out for when converting?

2) They mention on the show that the high percentage of wheat can cause an alkaline PH, they recommend either to sub out a small potion of 2 row with acidulated malt, or add a pinch of food grade acid (like lactic) to get the Mash PH around 5.3 to 5.5. I read that my city's water is between 7.2 and 8.2 so maybe I should be using the 5.2 stabalizer product anyway? Or, if just substituting is enough, how much acidulated should I swap for the 2 row pale?

3) The recipe also recommends adding Gypsum (I am in Portland Oregon and we have very soft water) so would ~6-7 ounces split between the mash water and boil water be about right?

4) My first 2 batches I did no water additions at all, but after reading about chloramine I may try out Campden this time. Do you guys generally recommend this?

5) I'm planning to use Bobby M's method of a double-batch sparge with no mash out (using the 10 gallon home depot round MLT with ss braid). The recipe calls for a single infusion MASH for 45 min @ 150 degrees, but doesn't give details on mash-out or sparge temps. Should I just bring the sparge water temp up to ~180?

6) Since I have a single burner and single pot, is it beneficial to use my auto-syphon between vessels to minimize splashing?

Thanks in advance for reading all this! Any other tips would be appreciated too. I can't wait to brew (and drink) this beer!

 

[Pennsyltucky]

1) The recipes calls for a 6 gallon batch with a 90 minute boil. I only have an 8 gallon pot, so I'm guessing I won't have enough room to finish with 6 gallons.

8 Gallon pot x 90 Min Boil + Fermcap = smooth sailing (and probably pretty darn close to 6 Gal in the fermentor)

2) They mention on the show that the high percentage of wheat can cause an alkaline PH... maybe I should be using the 5.2 stabalizer product anyway?

Water chemistry confuses me... but I've read a lot of good things about 5.2 Stabilizer... I'm going to try it on my next batch as I have high pH water

3) The recipe also recommends adding Gypsum (I am in Portland Oregon and we have very soft water) so would ~6-7 ounces split between the mash water and boil water be about right?

See above.

4) My first 2 batches I did no water additions at all, but after reading about chloramine I may try out Campden this time. Do you guys generally recommend this?

You may consider buying bottled water. I've done it for a few extract/ specialty batches with good results (easier than monkeying with water chemistry... especially if it's your first AG... you'll have enough to worry about)

5) I'm planning to use Bobby M's method of a double-batch sparge with no mash out (using the 10 gallon home depot round MLT with ss braid). The recipe calls for a single infusion MASH for 45 min @ 150 degrees, but doesn't give details on mash-out or sparge temps. Should I just bring the sparge water temp up to ~180?

Again, for the first AG... stick with some basic practices. I use Bobby M's methods (so far) and haven't been led astray. Worry about all the minutia later... follow established practices now and you'll get good beer and build experience. So, yes, sparge at 180.

6) Since I have a single burner and single pot, is it beneficial to use my auto-syphon between vessels to minimize splashing?

I don't have this situation, someone else may be able to give you better advice.

All-in-all... just brew it. You'll end up with beer, you'll learn and you'll have more questions when you're done. I'm not a RDWHAHB type of guy but I try to realize that, five gallons at a time, a few mistakes aren't so bad.

 

[GroosBrewz]

1. An 8 gallon pot for a 6 gallon recipe for a90 minute boil should suffice although you will DEFINITELY need to watch for boil over.

2. 5.2 works awesome. go with it and forget about it

3. Maybe some can correct me here, but it is my understanding that 5.2 Stabilizer will correct the alkalinity issue so if you use it there is no need to add gypsum

4. Guess I am not sure what you mean about "water additions" in an all grain batch..

5. Yes.. That should be about right

6. Again not sure what you mean? which "transfer" do you mean? from kettle to tun? from tun to pot? from pot to fermentor?

 

[GroosBrewz]

1) The recipes calls for a 6 gallon batch with a 90 minute boil. I only have an 8 gallon pot, so I'm guessing I won't have enough room to finish with 6 gallons.

8 Gallon pot x 90 Min Boil + Fermcap = smooth sailing (and probably pretty darn close to 6 Gal in the fermentor)

2) They mention on the show that the high percentage of wheat can cause an alkaline PH... maybe I should be using the 5.2 stabalizer product anyway?

Water chemistry confuses me... but I've read a lot of good things about 5.2 Stabilizer... I'm going to try it on my next batch as I have high pH water

3) The recipe also recommends adding Gypsum (I am in Portland Oregon and we have very soft water) so would ~6-7 ounces split between the mash water and boil water be about right?

See above.

4) My first 2 batches I did no water additions at all, but after reading about chloramine I may try out Campden this time. Do you guys generally recommend this?

You may consider buying bottled water. I've done it for a few extract/ specialty batches with good results (easier than monkeying with water chemistry... especially if it's your first AG... you'll have enough to worry about)

5) I'm planning to use Bobby M's method of a double-batch sparge with no mash out (using the 10 gallon home depot round MLT with ss braid). The recipe calls for a single infusion MASH for 45 min @ 150 degrees, but doesn't give details on mash-out or sparge temps. Should I just bring the sparge water temp up to ~180?

Again, for the first AG... stick with some basic practices. I use Bobby M's methods (so far) and haven't been led astray. Worry about all the minutia later... follow established practices now and you'll get good beer and build experience. So, yes, sparge at 180.

6) Since I have a single burner and single pot, is it beneficial to use my auto-syphon between vessels to minimize splashing?

I don't have this situation, someone else may be able to give you better advice.

All-in-all... just brew it. You'll end up with beer, you'll learn and you'll have more questions when you're done. I'm not a RDWHAHB type of guy but I try to realize that, five gallons at a time, a few mistakes aren't so bad.

Beat me to the punch! Damn your eyes! <jk>

 

[Golddiggie]

For #6, I'd install a 1/2" ball valve into the pot... Unless you need to use it for other things, and can't dedicate that pot for brewing... Makes transfers MUCH easier. You can get a length of high temp (silicon) tubing and not worry about having perfect aim (from the ball valve nipple)...

If you have a drill, and know how to use it, you can install a ball valve in your pot/kettle. Or get a friend with a drill to come over and help out (free beer usually is all it takes to get people over to help out)...

 

[BrewThruYou]

If you are really that worried about boilover, you can scale down the recipe for 5.5 gallons. But I'd just buy some fermcap, do the 6gal, and keep a close eye on it.

I have a 7.5gal pot and do 5.5gal batches all the time with no fermcap...but usually 60min boils and my boiloff rate is on the low side.

 

[pulptastic]

You can use an autosiphon to transfer cold wort, but don't use it above hot tap water temperature. I just use a big funnel and pour from my kettle until I get around to adding a valve.

 

[nobita]

Thanks guys.

For #3: I am not sure the 5.2 stabilizer would replace the gypsum. I've heard that with a soft water profile gypsum will add calcium (good for yeast health) and will also help bring out hop flavors in IPAs.

For #4: I am going to avoid bottled water since I know Portland's tap water can make great beer - just wondering if folks are seeing any taste benefit with Campden to remove chloramine.

For #6: yes, I did mean transfering from MLT to holding bucket, and from holding bucket to boil kettle - I'm thinking it might be a good practice to avoid/minimize splashing until you are at a lower temp and ready to aerate - then again, it might make no difference at all.

I appreciate the responses and tips!