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Would a candle work? Or maybe it wouldn't be sensitive enough to gauge microoxygenation (is that a word)?
I'd say microoxygenation is the perfect term. And I'm having a hard time determining a sufficient experiment to establish a permeability rate, but there are a lot of factors in play, age of tree, curing time, stave thickness, barrel thickness, barrel age, permeability rate of barrel's first use, climate of storage facility, the list is very long.

I read an article recently about how older vintages of now cheap bourbons like old grand dad are so sought after, and the theory is that old growth wood barrels taste better. Same story with vintage guitars (but for tone, not taste you weirdo).
 
You have to make sure to check each barrel for leaks when you get them by swelling them. Once that's done, the only real way to find out is by tasting your product. If it has excess levels of off aromas/flavors like acetic acid and/or ethyl acetate, you need to dump the beer and destroy the barrel. As long as your closure/bung wasn't the issue, that is.
McMatt7, do you know anything about closure/bung issues?
 
I thought you meant that there was some sort of way to test the long term oxygen permeability of the barrel. Can't you just wax any leaks?

I guess you could, just like you could use a chalk and garlic paste to close them. Still doesn't fix the leaks. It just blocks them. You need a cooper, or a reasonable skill level, to fix them with wood. You could also wax the entire barrel to make it less permeable, but that's pretty time intensive.
 
I'd say microoxygenation is the perfect term. And I'm having a hard time determining a sufficient experiment to establish a permeability rate, but there are a lot of factors in play, age of tree, curing time, stave thickness, barrel thickness, barrel age, permeability rate of barrel's first use, climate of storage facility, the list is very long.

Indeed. There are LOTS of variables in play here, including barrel construction. However, the only way to really determine if a barrel is going to produce an end product of the appropriate quality is by tasting the contents as they age.
 
I guess you could, just like you could use a chalk and garlic paste to close them. Still doesn't fix the leaks. It just blocks them. You need a cooper, or a reasonable skill level, to fix them with wood. You could also wax the entire barrel to make it less permeable, but that's pretty time intensive.
I guess I don't see what the difference between waxing a leak to seal it off and coopering the barrel.
 
I got a guy who can answer these questions.

hangin-with-mr-cooper.jpg
 
I guess I don't see what the difference between waxing a leak to seal it off and coopering the barrel.

Waxing (and the garlic/chalk paste) are just ways to "save" a beer. They don't allow the barrel to behave normally, as it would if it were made of 100% wood, so expansion and contraction is limited and pressures within the barrel are not allowed to wax and wane normally. In the end, does it matter that much? In the short term, probably not that much. In the long term, I would have to say that it would. If only from a time and attention point of view. You want to just leave your beer in the barrel and taste it periodically. You don't want to constantly have to fix it.
 
Maybe I missed it, but didn't see anyone post about the new BA grat prices. I at least respect Scott for not being stubborn and realizing he set the prices way too high last year. $5 less a can is a big difference.

Edit: Just realized regular is more per ounce than the BA cans. What a joke.

So we can agree that their pricing is probably still a bit askew then?

W/E man, I just want me some of those Moonstomp cans.
 
Maybe I missed it, but didn't see anyone post about the new BA grat prices. I at least respect Scott for not being stubborn and realizing he set the prices way too high last year. $5 less a can is a big difference.
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Edit: Just realized regular is more per ounce than the BA cans. What a joke.
latest
 
I tried my first can from Funk Brewing the other night and was really impressed with their Tumbleweed Pale Ale. Might of been the fact that it was my first beer in a week, but it made me want to seek out more of their stuff.
 
DL also releasing this tomorrow:

Wild Hazy Dry Hopped Prototype 6W (5.7% abv) - $6.75 per 500ml bottle

This "prototype" is an indigenous wild ale that we dry hopped with Galaxy, Simcoe and Citra and is known as Wild Hazy Dry Hopped Prototype 6W (for those of you that had 6C, it's its the same base beer with the addition of some of our house indigenous yeast strains)… Drink it sooner rather than later as the hop character will deteriorate over time (especially in wild ales).

ABV must be a typo though...
 
I tried my first can from Funk Brewing the other night and was really impressed with their Tumbleweed Pale Ale. Might of been the fact that it was my first beer in a week, but it made me want to seek out more of their stuff.
i had a can of their citrus ipa a few weeks ago and it was exceptional. actually way better than the treehouse can i had right before it. they just had a release last weekend but i'm too lazy to try to get any.
 
Waxing (and the garlic/chalk paste) are just ways to "save" a beer. They don't allow the barrel to behave normally, as it would if it were made of 100% wood, so expansion and contraction is limited and pressures within the barrel are not allowed to wax and wane normally. In the end, does it matter that much? In the short term, probably not that much. In the long term, I would have to say that it would. If only from a time and attention point of view. You want to just leave your beer in the barrel and taste it periodically. You don't want to constantly have to fix it.
ok i think i see what you're getting at now. i didn't realize that pressure fluctuates within the barrel. i guess the breweries that have airlocks sticking out of the top of their barrels are doing it wrong?
 
Drink it sooner rather than later as the hop character will deteriorate over time (especially in wild ales).

Wonder why they think that hop character will deteriorate more quickly in wild ales? Should be about the same unless you have brettanomyces and then it'd actually last longer as brett scavenges oxygen.
 
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