PID and PWM?

Cioffi · Apr 7, 2012

I've checked out a few threads on using a PID and a PWM, but I still have some questions. Here's my set up: *I'm going to run one kettle with a 5500W element using a PID (strike water, mashing); *I'll have another kettle for boiling and it will have a 5500W element. Here are my questions: 1) My PID has the manual mode option (Watlow 93 series). Can I easily switch back and forth from PID to manual and then use my one PID for both strike water/recirculating and boiling? Will I need some sort of switch to go back and forth? 2) If I can't use my one PID for both strike/mashing and boiling, can I use a PWM and easily swith back and forth between PID and PWM? Also, if I need to go with a PWM, am I able to buy a "plug n' play" model somewhere? (I know a lot of guys build one, but I'd rather buy one ready to go.) Thanks, Todd

_swede_ · Apr 7, 2012

This one works, just change out the C1 cap for a 2.2 uF. It'll do 5-95% then, for full boil put in a bypass switch... replace DOT with a "." as I'm not sure about posting links here as a newb. I've used several of these, and they are great. It's based on the 804? kit I think...

www DOT ebay DOT ca/itm/140535132501?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

lafolielapper · Apr 11, 2012

some people are saying the 4.8 uf is better vs the 2.2 ....whats the consensus?

yjfun · Apr 11, 2012

I built mine with the 2.2 and it seems to work just fine. I have not tried one with the 4.8 cap though.

_swede_ · Apr 11, 2012

Using a 2.2uF cap in this one will give roughly a 1 second cycle time. If you use an electrolytic cap that is polarized be sure it's installed with the polarity correct or else it wont work.

I've used mine for quite some time now successfully.