Panel Troubleshooting

[Wagon_6]

Hello - I built a panel and have been using it the past few years (two 120v separate circuits with two elements). I recently had one of the PIDS (DSPR310D) stop working and noticed the SSR on that circuit was constantly lit (little red light). I figured it failed and just installed another SSR along with a new PID.

After installing the new SSR, the little red light is staying constantly lit again and I cannot control a percentage of the power (defaults to full power). When I enter the PID into "Stop" function, it turns off the "Out" on the SSR. I checked all the contactors, and they appear to be working correctly. The other circuit works as well.

I attached the diagram I used. Any thoughts why the SSR would not be "listening" to the PID?

Thanks for any help!

 

[doug293cz]

You say "one of the PIDs," but the design only shows one PID. Did you actually use two PIDs?

Can you post pics of the front of each SSR.

The red light on the front of the SSR only tells you that the SSR is receiving a signal to turn on from the PID. It does not actually tell you that the SSR output stage is actually on. The lamp in parallel with the element output (element firing lamp) tells you if the SSR is actually turned on or not. The element firing lamp has a quirk however, it gives false information (turns on) if the element is not connected. This is normal, and is a result of the normal leakage current thru the SSR.

Brew on

 

[Wagon_6]

Hi Doug, glad you jumped in! Yes, I went with two PIDs. One temp probe is in the pump outflow and the other probe is in the bottom of the kettle.

I’m use to both element indicator lights blinking in relation to what power I have set (i.e. 45% during the boil). This is the first time I’ve had this issue.

I have both elements submerged and when I turn on the element switch, it pulls full power no matter what I set that PID to.

The “MGR” is the original SSR, still works on the other circuit. The “SRD” is the new one. It’s behaving the same as the one I just replaced. Polarity on both are wired correctly.

 

[doug293cz]

Nothing suspicious about the new SSR (i.e. you didn't accidentally use an SSVR.)

It's possible that you have the "Boiling acceleration set temp" (bAST) parameter set incorrectly. If this is set too high, then the EZBoil will put out 100% power signal even if the boil power is set to something less. What is your bAST setting?

Brew on

 

[Wagon_6]

Right. It’s a brand new PID, let me go through all those settings. I turned that one off originally.

 

[Wagon_6]

Shew! Looks like my mind got stuck on thinking it was the same problem but it was the new PID bAST kicking in full power (never used it originally). I turned it off to have manual control in boil mode and the new SSR/PID work great. Thanks again Doug!

 

[Bobby_M]

I'm just dropping in to tell you that it's a tragedy that you didn't already use the boil acceleration function before. It's one of the best unique features of the DSPR series. It literally prevents boilovers while also giving you maximum power during ramp up. I can't imagine why anyone wouldn't want that function.

 

[Wagon_6]

I have 2 elements and my other one is controlled by a simple manual only Auber PID. So I have to babysit it anyway while I’m ramping. I use the Hold function on the 310 so it goes into alarm at like 208 to let me know boil is on the cusp.

I should probably just upgrade that PID to a DSPR one so I can semi-automate everything like you said.

 

[doug293cz]

I have 2 elements and my other one is controlled by a simple manual only Auber PID. So I have to babysit it anyway while I’m ramping. I use the Hold function on the 310 so it goes into alarm at like 208 to let me know boil is on the cusp.

I should probably just upgrade that PID to a DSPR one so I can semi-automate everything like you said.

Why not just control both SSRs from the DSPR310D? Then you can use the accelerate to boil without having to baby sit. You can always use something like the Auber SYL-2802B for extra temp measurements.

Edit: Or just use the plain PID you have as just a temperature monitor. Then you don't need any new equipment.

Brew on

 

[Bobby_M]

Doug has a point. If both elements are in the same boil kettle, why are they on separate controllers?

 

[Wagon_6]

KISS method when I built it a few years ago and I didn’t know you could do that. How would I wire that?

I would still like to have the older PID to show it’s temperature. I’ve gotten use to seeing the temperature difference between the bottom of the kettle and the out of the pump. I still like doing step mashes and mash outs.

 

[Wagon_6]

So it looks as simple as moving the + and - SSR controls from the DSPR120 to the DSPR310 so both SSRs are controlled by the DSPR310? Leave the RTD in place so the DSPR120 still gives me a temperature readout? Power from each circuit stays isolated.

 

[doug293cz]

So it looks as simple as moving the + and - SSR controls from the DSPR120 to the DSPR310 so both SSRs are controlled by the DSPR310? Leave the RTD in place so the DSPR120 still gives me a temperature readout? Power from each circuit stays isolated.

Yes.

Brew on