Pale ale turned clear 🤷‍♂️

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MT09NOV94

King Thompson’s Froth
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Hello everyone,

I am new on this forum and also new to brewing beer. Currently have my third batch of homebrew fermenting now. I was wondering if anyone had any idea why my pale ale went clear. I bottled it and left it for five weeks then started drinking it. The first week of drinking it I loved it and it seemed like I did a good job. However, after a week I noticed head retention was lacking and also the pale ale went clear.
Any advice would be great thank you 🙏
 
What do you mean by "went clear?" Do you mean no longer hazy? Were you trying to make a hazy pale ale, and if so, what were your recipe and process?
 
What do you mean by "went clear?" Do you mean no longer hazy? Were you trying to make a hazy pale ale, and if so, what were your recipe and process?
Here are the ingredients: rapid creek ale tin, ultrabrew, naked oats, Amarillo, centennial. I’ll have to get back to you on exact ingredients that come in the rapid creek ale and ultrabrew
 
My first batch of Amber Ale looked horrible, see pics below. I wish I had your problem. Poured out 5 gallons. Tasted fine, but couldn’t get past the look.
 

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Unless it is New England style, pale ales are supposed to be more or less clear. Time conditioning in the bottle will help things settle out and become more clear.
 
Here are the ingredients: rapid creek ale tin, ultrabrew, naked oats, Amarillo, centennial. I’ll have to get back to you on exact ingredients that come in the rapid creek ale and ultrabrew
Did your kit by chance include irish moss?
 
Unless it is New England style, pale ales are supposed to be more or less clear. Time conditioning in the bottle will help things settle out and become more clear.
It was a James squire one fifty lashes batch. Interesting. I found it much less appealing when it went clear. Also lost head retention
 
It was a James squire one fifty lashes batch. Interesting. I found it much less appealing when it went clear. Also lost head retention

I get from some googling that one fifty lashes is a craft beer, so it's supposed to be a clone?

And Rapid Creek Ale tin is a pre-hopped malt extract, and Ultra Brew is a mixture of Dry malt extract, maltodextrin, and dextrose.

Did this come as a kit? If not, where did the recipe come from?

Can you go through your process on how you made it? How much water did you use, when you added the various extracts, how much of the hops and how long were they boiled, how you fermented, how you bottled, etc?
 
I get from some googling that one fifty lashes is a craft beer, so it's supposed to be a clone?

And Rapid Creek Ale tin is a pre-hopped malt extract, and Ultra Brew is a mixture of Dry malt extract, maltodextrin, and dextrose.

Did this come as a kit? If not, where did the recipe come from?

Can you go through your process on how you made it? How much water did you use, when you added the various extracts, how much of the hops and how long were they boiled, how you fermented, how you bottled, etc?
Okay I’ll do my best here haha so I got the recipe from the store I go to called country brewers. Basically they have a recipe sheet for different clones of beer. I pretty much followed this video… but I also added naked oats which I left in boiling water for 15 minutes. Also I used 22L of water in total. It fermented for about 9 days. Got two identical readings on hydrometer so decided to bottle. I had a sink full of sterilised water which I had the bottles in and equipment. I then rinsed the bottles with water, added the caster sugar and carbonation drops to each bottle. The bottles I used were flip top 750ml bottles. Then I left the bottles in a cellar for about 5 weeks. Thanks so much for your help
 
Okay I’ll do my best here haha so I got the recipe from the store I go to called country brewers. Basically they have a recipe sheet for different clones of beer. I pretty much followed this video… but I also added naked oats which I left in boiling water for 15 minutes. Also I used 22L of water in total. It fermented for about 9 days. Got two identical readings on hydrometer so decided to bottle. I had a sink full of sterilised water which I had the bottles in and equipment. I then rinsed the bottles with water, added the caster sugar and carbonation drops to each bottle. The bottles I used were flip top 750ml bottles. Then I left the bottles in a cellar for about 5 weeks. Thanks so much for your help


OK, great! That explains what your process was pretty well.

It's a no boil, pre-hopped extract batch, with some hops added, and some specialty grains steeped in really hot water (was it actually boiling? or did you add the grains to boiling water, which cooled it down?) How much of the hops did you add the the can of hot water/residual extract?

I don't think that you're likely to get exact clones of commercial beers with this process, but getting tasty beer in the ballpark of them is doable.

So your issues are, after bottle conditioning for 5 weeks, it was great for one week, then:
1) the beer cleared and you didn't want it to
2) it doesn't have as good of a head retention
3) it's not as enjoyable (what does this mean? flavor/aroma/mouthfeel changed? can you describe it?)
 
OK, great! That explains what your process was pretty well.

It's a no boil, pre-hopped extract batch, with some hops added, and some specialty grains steeped in really hot water (was it actually boiling? or did you add the grains to boiling water, which cooled it down?) How much of the hops did you add the the can of hot water/residual extract?

I don't think that you're likely to get exact clones of commercial beers with this process, but getting tasty beer in the ballpark of them is doable.

So your issues are, after bottle conditioning for 5 weeks, it was great for one week, then:
1) the beer cleared and you didn't want it to
2) it doesn't have as good of a head retention
3) it's not as enjoyable (what does this mean? flavor/aroma/mouthfeel changed? can you describe it?)
So I added the grains to boiling water which then would have cooled over the 15 minutes. The hops came in tea bags im pretty sure they were 12g each. So I tipped the rapid creek tin into fermenter. I then put hot water in the rapid creek tin and put the hop tea bags in the tin. Then I poured the hops tea bags and tin water.
Issues 1 and 2 are correct. 3) it wasn’t enjoyable visually because it was no longer hazy. Flavour and aroma were similar but I guess the mouth feel was more watery.
Thanks so much for your insight
 
How was your bottling process? If the beer has turned darker during the time in bottles it may have become a bit oxidized, and lost a little of it's "freshness".
My bottling process was sterilising and rinsing the bottles. Adding sugar and carbonation drops to the individual 750ml bottles. Then leaving the bottles in a cellar for 5 weeks. I don’t know if it went darker it went completely translucent
 
A bit of cold storage, fining probably would have fixed things. Also, was this a primary only brew? Or, was a secondary used?
I had it at 38 for a few weeks no luck. I didn’t understand the importance of avoiding the trub in fermenter and keg. Now I do
 
So I added the grains to boiling water which then would have cooled over the 15 minutes. The hops came in tea bags im pretty sure they were 12g each. So I tipped the rapid creek tin into fermenter. I then put hot water in the rapid creek tin and put the hop tea bags in the tin. Then I poured the hops tea bags and tin water.
Issues 1 and 2 are correct. 3) it wasn’t enjoyable visually because it was no longer hazy. Flavour and aroma were similar but I guess the mouth feel was more watery.
Thanks so much for your insight

I take it you had one tea bag of each hop, so 24 grams for a 22+L batch.

A couple of general tips to help improve future beer:

If your water contains chlorine/chloramines, add some campden to it before using, which will get rid of it. (1/2 tablet crushed up per 10 gallons of water). Chlorine can cause off flavors when it mixes with the malts. Since municipal water supplies can change chlorination amounts over time, even if you can't taste the problem now, so it's cheap insurance against a batch getting really chlorinated water and your beer being off.

Golden Naked Oats are a crystal malt, so they steep OK. How much did you use? They should have been crushed/ground up. You should consider steeping them in a gallon or 2 of water at 140-160F (~60-70C) for 20-30 minutes or so, then taking them out (ideally bringing that to a boil to make sure that it is sanitized) and adding that to the fermenter.

Specifically this batch:

I'm not sure about a loss of head retention - is this consistent with all the bottles, or intermittent? (i.e. did you have several beers in the first week of drinking [6th week in bottles] and they were all great head retention, and now they are all poor head retention? This could also be a glassware thing. Tiny amounts of soap or dishwasher spot preventer can affect this, so try rinsing your glassware well before pouring.

The other problem is haze - you like it cloudier, and it cleared. I don't think you really have a problem with the beer, the clearing is normal and expected.
Generally people have aimed for clear beer in the past, but with the popularity of New England IPA (NEIPA / "hazys") this has somewhat changed. In good examples of the style, the haziness comes partly from the malts used, but mostly from the way massive amounts of hops are used.
I don't think NEIPA is a good beginner style, because it is very sensitive to oxidation, which requires more advanced techniques to avoid. It's also really expensive to make because of all the hops, and would probably require some process changes from what you are doing.

For your application, to get some more haze, you could try taking a couple gallons of wort (take it out of your fermenter after mixing in malt but before adding the yeast), bring it to 180F/82C and steep 3-4 oz (100g or so) of hops for 20-30 minutes before putting it in (let it cool to room temp before adding yeast). That would probably give some light hop haze, but these things can settle out over time. It would certainly make the beer much hoppier, so it would have a different taste.

For your current bottles, you could try taking one and inverting it several times a few minutes before opening to let the yeast mix back up into the beer. Maybe you like the taste of the yeast and other small particles in suspension.
 
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I’m new to brewing, only 5 batches in. But could this have anything to do with rinsing the sanitized bottles before bottling?
 
I take it you had one tea bag of each hop, so 24 grams for a 22+L batch.

A couple of general tips to help improve future beer:

If your water contains chlorine/chloramines, add some campden to it before using, which will get rid of it. (1/2 tablet crushed up per 10 gallons of water). Chlorine can cause off flavors when it mixes with the malts. Since municipal water supplies can change chlorination amounts over time, even if you can't taste the problem now, so it's cheap insurance against a batch getting really chlorinated water and your beer being off.

Golden Naked Oats are a crystal malt, so they steep OK. How migh did you use? They should have been crushed/ground up. You should consider steeping them in a gallon or 2 of water at 140-160F (~60-70C) for 20-30 minutes or so, then taking them out (ideally bringing that to a boil to make sure that it is sanitized) and adding that to the fermenter.

Specifically this batch:

I'm not sure about a loss of head retention - is this consistent with all the bottles, or intermittent? (i.e. did you have several beers in the first week of drinking [6th week in bottles] and they were all great head retention, and now they are all poor head retention? This could also be a glassware thing. Tiny amounts of soap or dishwasher spot preventer can affect this, so try rinsing your glassware well before pouring.

The other problem is haze - you like it cloudier, and it cleared. I don't think you really have a problem with the beer, the clearing is normal and expected.
Generally people have aimed for clear beer in the past, but with the popularity of New England IPA (NEIPA / "hazys") this has somewhat changed. In good examples of the style, the haziness comes partly from the malts used, but mostly from the way massive amounts of hops are used.
I don't think NEIPA is a good beginner style, because it is very sensitive to oxidation, which requires more advanced techniques to avoid. It's also really expensive to make because of all the hops, and would probably require some process changes from what you are doing.

For your application, to get some more haze, you could try taking a couple gallons of wort (take it out of your fermenter after mixing in malt but before adding the yeast), bring it to 180F/82C and steep 3-4 oz (100g or so) of hops for 20-30 minutes before putting it in (let it cool to room temp before adding yeast). That would probably give some light hop haze, but these things can settle out over time. It would certainly make the beer much hoppier, so it would have a different taste.

For your current bottles, you could try taking one and inverting it several times a few minutes before opening to let the yeast mix back up into the beer. Maybe you like the taste of the yeast and other small particles in suspension.
+1 on this

How many bottles were good vs the one's you've noticed the head retention issue with? Really wondering if it's just an inconsistency in cleanliness of the bottles.

Regarding the dropping clear "issue" that's just really what's supposed to happen; especially if your cellaring it for that length of time. As Marc1 mentioned it's just the yeast falling out of suspension. Likewise, I've always heard extract alone finishes a little on the thin side (someone correct me if that's wrong), and so steeping some specialty grains as recommended can help add more body and complexity to your future batches.
 
Your idea of clear is pretty hazy to me. Or is that a haze on the glass itself?


edit...
Oh, never mind I didn't read it correctly. Well just for interest, why not a pic of the clear?

And I missed seeing if you said what type of pale ale. Or is this that clone I saw mentioned.

Maybe I just need to go back and read some more. 😱
 
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+1 on this

How many bottles were good vs the one's you've noticed the head retention issue with? Really wondering if it's just an inconsistency in cleanliness of the bottles.

Regarding the dropping clear "issue" that's just really what's supposed to happen; especially if your cellaring it for that length of time. As Marc1 mentioned it's just the yeast falling out of suspension. Likewise, I've always heard extract alone finishes a little on the thin side (someone correct me if that's wrong), and so steeping some specialty grains as recommended can help add more body and complexity to your future batches.
It seemed more like time that affected the beer with head retention
 
+1 on this

How many bottles were good vs the one's you've noticed the head retention issue with? Really wondering if it's just an inconsistency in cleanliness of the bottles.

Regarding the dropping clear "issue" that's just really what's supposed to happen; especially if your cellaring it for that length of time. As Marc1 mentioned it's just the yeast falling out of suspension. Likewise, I've always heard extract alone finishes a little on the thin side (someone correct me if that's wrong), and so steeping some specialty grains as recommended can help add more body and complexity to your future batches.
So if I don’t want it to drop clear I should just drink it sooner and not cellar it for that long. Maybe just cellar it for 2 weeks?
 
So if I don’t want it to drop clear I should just drink it sooner and not cellar it for that long. Maybe just cellar it for 2 weeks?
You can start drinking it whenever, the flavor will change over time. Try it at 2 weeks and see. If it's not where you want it, wait a week or two and try again. You'll find out where you like them with practice drinking them!
 
You can start drinking it whenever, the flavor will change over time. Try it at 2 weeks and see. If it's not where you want it, wait a week or two and try again. You'll find out where you like them with practice drinking them!
Okay awesome I can drink them sooner than later 😛🙋‍♂️ Thanks so much for your help it’s been awesome getting advice. I just made a fermenter bucket yesterday so gonna put my fourth batch on tomorrow. It’s suppose to be a pirate life ipa clone. These are the ingredients… rapid creek pale ale tin, 1kg body brew (600g dextrose, 400g maltodextrin),200g maris otter, 200g carapils, 150g wheat, 12g chinook, 12g centennial, 15g simcoe, 12g mosaic
 
Okay awesome I can drink them sooner than later 😛🙋‍♂️ Thanks so much for your help it’s been awesome getting advice. I just made a fermenter bucket yesterday so gonna put my fourth batch on tomorrow. It’s suppose to be a pirate life ipa clone. These are the ingredients… rapid creek pale ale tin, 1kg body brew (600g dextrose, 400g maltodextrin),200g maris otter, 200g carapils, 150g wheat, 12g chinook, 12g centennial, 15g simcoe, 12g mosaic

Those grains need to be mashed. Put them in water around 150F and keep it at that temp for 30-45 minutes. Having the crushed grain loosely in a bag for that would be great. At that temperature the enzymes in the grain will change the starches to sugars. It will taste sweet at the end. Boil it for a minute after you strain out the grains so that the newly made wort is sanitized.
When you are done you will have done a partial mash brew! Moving on up in complexity of your brews. This technique lets you make more varied recipes.
This is a 22L+ batch of IPA? You could easily double the hops if you want a hoppier beer. Maybe brew it once with current ingredients, and once with the double hop to see what it does?
 
Those grains need to be mashed. Put them in water around 150F and keep it at that temp for 30-45 minutes. Having the crushed grain loosely in a bag for that would be great. At that temperature the enzymes in the grain will change the starches to sugars. It will taste sweet at the end. Boil it for a minute after you strain out the grains so that the newly made wort is sanitized.
When you are done you will have done a partial mash brew! Moving on up in complexity of your brews. This technique lets you make more varied recipes.
This is a 22L+ batch of IPA? You could easily double the hops if you want a hoppier beer. Maybe brew it once with current ingredients, and once with the double hop to see what it does?
Awesome sounds good! Yes 22L batch! Yes I love hoppy beer so I’ll see how it taste after a batch and make some tweaks to the recipe
 
So if I don’t want it to drop clear I should just drink it sooner and not cellar it for that long. Maybe just cellar it for 2 weeks?
Yes. Personally I think hop forward ales are better the fresher they are in general. Besides just dropping clear, hop aromas & their complexity fade over time.
 

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