ReuFroman
Well-Known Member
As I start to consider my inner workings and wirings of my panel I wanted to see what others are doing.
So show me your pids!
So show me your pids!
Open your panel and show me whats inside
- Thread starter ReuFroman
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
OP
OP
ReuFroman
Well-Known Member
No takers?
OP
OP
ReuFroman
Well-Known Member
I like how you bring it in on the right then move logically down through on the left. Would you change that layout?
huntb
Well-Known Member
Maybe this needs a disclaimer to make sure there is no power going to the panel first. Not saying that everyone doesn't know that already... but just in case someone has had a few too many and forgets so you're not blamed for their misfortune
Im_Lars
Well-Known Member
Here is mine. Someone gave me the box (12x12x8) so I made it work but it was a very tight fit.
IrishBrewer74
Well-Known Member
kevink said:
Kevink, very nice clean work. I like the perfect bends to the wires to accommodate hight and to make turns.
Beeskneesbrew
Well-Known Member
I don't think I'd change the layout. My power needs to enter through the lower left hand side of the box as I have the panel mounted on my brew rig and that's the best fit. If I did it again I think I'd use a bit more wire length for the switches and lights on the front door so the wires wouldn't scrape on the edge of the opening. DIN mounted components and wire management guides help a lot to clean it up. Plus I'd daisy chain a lot of the neutrals for the switches instead of putting in home runs for each one.
Make some drawings of how you want the front panel first, then determine how the inside layout needs to be. If you think about it, the power has to flow from the inlet to distribution blocks to breakers to components. From there you have to figure out getting power to your switches, temp controllers, lights, alarms, etc.
OP
OP
ReuFroman
Well-Known Member
Flomaster said:
Never. I once saw a 24" x 24" x 10".
As most things big is never big enough.
OP
OP
ReuFroman
Well-Known Member
How did you fit all that in your panel?
The fan is very nice, it allows you to use DIN Mounted heatsinks on your SSRs without much worry. It also allows you to not have to cut out a space to mount a large heatsink on the outside.
OP
OP
ReuFroman
Well-Known Member
Flomaster said:
You have a few options. You can leave it IF you are mounting it where water or liquid will not be reaching it (not recommended). You can remove the 4 screws and purchase plastics or metal to make a cover plate. Lastly you can remove it and use it as your starting hole for your heat sink.
it seems you are against having a fan or opening in the control panel I can see where you wouldn't want liquid making its way into the box, but I don't plan on having this thing sitting where its going to be getting wet.
-=Jason=-
kal
Well-Known Member
Some nice wired setups there!
My manufacturer does a lot cleaner wiring job than I did on my prototype so I'll post theirs first.
50A (4 element) control panel:
My 30A prototype that I use myself (upon which the above was based):
Kal
My manufacturer does a lot cleaner wiring job than I did on my prototype so I'll post theirs first.
50A (4 element) control panel:
My 30A prototype that I use myself (upon which the above was based):
Kal
kal
Well-Known Member
kal said:
Good Lord. I'm in awe. I also carefully bent and routed my wires but damn I'd rather be brewing than still making my panel perfect...
jsguitar
Well-Known Member
Yeah Kal, man, that guy's work is amazing!
mux, I think you're going to have elaborate on what you're building exactly. My guess so far is some sort of electric octopus.
mux, I think you're going to have elaborate on what you're building exactly. My guess so far is some sort of electric octopus.
50 amp BCS 460, SSR's for each leg of 240, spare SSR already mounted and hooked to unused output of the BCS for future expansion or in case of SSR failure, I could quickly run some jumper wires to get back to business. The unit under the wall wort is a 90 volt D.C. power supply for my pumps.
OP
OP
ReuFroman
Well-Known Member
Kal - your an inspiration
Mux - about time someone took ebrewing seriously. Really really seriously.
Gunmetal -looks great, what's the bottom look like? I like what your doing with the electrical connections.
Mux - about time someone took ebrewing seriously. Really really seriously.
Gunmetal -looks great, what's the bottom look like? I like what your doing with the electrical connections.
Ok, I now see that my wiring was not as good as I thought it was, relative to all these artifacts of perfection. But hey, it makes beer! (when it's not blowing my 1960s-era main breaker...)
alien
Well-Known Member
Looks pretty good to me. But yeh, Mehmet wins.
OP
OP
ReuFroman
Well-Known Member
I have seen a panel where they run the wires under the mounting panel with holes and grommets. Who was that, why, and is it worth it? It seem that could be pretty nice for showing off components.
kal
Well-Known Member
You probably mean my post a few posts above:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/o...e-whats-inside-438542/index3.html#post5611443
Why? Because it looks cleaner and may make part replacement simpler.
Worth it? That's up to you.
Kal
OP
OP
ReuFroman
Well-Known Member
kal said:
Of course when I'm on the iPad having to rely on crappy slow 3G internet. Sorry I couldn't see images so well.
I think it looks so clean plus you can make some cool colors for the mounting plate. Looks like I'm going to the store for some color choices and grommets.
Loodachris
12th man loud and proud!
Mine so far and wow did I underestimate this build! So much more to it then I thought it was going to be but a lot of fun building this system. Hopefully everything works out when I go to test it.
DSC01091 by Ludahchris, on Flickr
DSC01091 by Ludahchris, on Flickr
TNugent
Well-Known Member
processhead
Well-Known Member
I'm controlling my RIMS tube with the PID controller and recently added a PWM board and second SSR to control my HLT and BK.
I used a mix of new and used parts and power it all with a 50 A GFCI 220 volt circuit.
Its simple yet flexible and functional,
I used a mix of new and used parts and power it all with a 50 A GFCI 220 volt circuit.
Its simple yet flexible and functional,
OP
OP
ReuFroman
Well-Known Member
Smart idea with the cord and plug ProcessHead.
processhead
Well-Known Member
Prices of the different plug/ cord and outlet combinations can be expensive.
This was a relatively cost effective alternative. Cord/plug was $17. Receptacle and box were $7.
This was a relatively cost effective alternative. Cord/plug was $17. Receptacle and box were $7.
processhead
Well-Known Member
I love the stands that you added to your keg to keep it off the floor/table.
This electric kettle design requires some sort of feet.
It gave me an excuse to fire up the new MIG welder.
OP
OP
ReuFroman
Well-Known Member
processhead said:This electric kettle design requires some sort of feet. It gave me an excuse to fire up the new MIG welder.
I need to buy a mig welder.
OP
OP
ReuFroman
Well-Known Member
So who is using DIN rails. I have all my components ready and am going to hopefully (fingers crossed) start on the panel this weekend. I have all din mount items.
Is it better to mount running top to bottom or by elements or by random order.
What have you found that works best? (I'm sure there is a thread for this but it is beady-bye time!
Is it better to mount running top to bottom or by elements or by random order.
What have you found that works best? (I'm sure there is a thread for this but it is beady-bye time!
Similar threads
