One good hole

[Prost!]

I just bought a 21.9 cubic foot Maytag fridge with freezer on the bottom (pictured below). I should be able to fit six, 5-gallon cornies, and 5+ cases of 12 oz bottles. I want to drill a single hole to run Co2 line through the back. How do I avoid wires and/or cooling elements in the back of the fridge? I'm planning on using a stud finder to detect and metal, but other than that I have no idea what I'm doing. I don't want to screw this one up. The fridge is in excellent condition and only a few years old (2003), I paid $75 for it on ebay! I'd appreciate any advice here.

 

[Lounge Lizard]

Not sure a stud finder would work. I mean, if the whole back of the fridge is metal, it's going to read that the whole back is one big stud. At least it seems like it to me. Or maybe it would work if you used the thing on the inside?

 

[Prost!]

Not sure a stud finder would work. I mean, if the whole back of the fridge is metal, it's going to read that the whole back is one big stud. At least it seems like it to me. Or maybe it would work if you used the thing on the inside?

Yeah, using a stud finder on a big metal box will probably not be useful. I want to use the space inside for cooling beer not gas and also regulator gauges are more responsive at room temperature. If anyone has drilled holes in the back of a refrigerator, Please let me know your techniques.

 

[Mr_Turtlehead]

I've heard of some people spraying water on the unit's surface (while it's on) and locating the elements by the evaporation lines that form. Could probably find it with a Google search.

 

[Lounge Lizard]

I think you would have better luck drilling in the side, though you need to be careful doing that too. There are a few threads on this topic, but I don't know where they are right now.

If you must use the back, I would cut about a 4 inch square of metal off of the back using a Demel tool with a cutting disc. Being careful to not go too deep. You don't want to cut into the cooling lines.

Then you could see what you had to deal with. If the cooling lines were too close together, maybe you could carefully pry them apart. Then drill through the back to the inside making a guide hole.

Then screw (using short screws) a square piece of sheet metal over the square you cut out with the Dremel. Go inside the fridge and drill back the other direction using the guide hole as a reference.

Make any sense?

At least this is what I came up with off the top of my head. I don't see why it wouldn't work...

 

[RichBrewer]

I'm kinda in the same boat. I've got an older refrigerator that I want to drill on the side for the CO2 line. I was ready to do it until someone told me the coils could run through the sides. I really need to do something because the CO2 bottle and regulator take up too much room.

 

[Prost!]

If you must use the back, I would cut about a 4 inch square of metal off of the back using a Demel tool with a cutting disc. Being careful to not go too deep. You don't want to cut into the cooling lines.

Then you could see what you had to deal with. If the cooling lines were too close together, maybe you could carefully pry them apart. Then drill through the back to the inside making a guide hole.

Then screw (using short screws) a square piece of sheet metal over the square you cut out with the Dremel. Go inside the fridge and drill back the other direction using the guide hole as a reference.

Make any sense?

At least this is what I came up with off the top of my head. I don't see why it wouldn't work...

Makes good sense, that's kinda what I had in mind. I assume there is insulation covering the cooling lines too. I suppose once I expose the insulation through the back I can use a plastic knife or dull instrument to probe through it. Then after installing a shank and running the gas line I can spray a little Great Stuff expanding insulator in there. I certainly don’t want gamble and drill blindly through the back. Like I said, I really don’t want to screw this up. Thanks.

 

[Lounge Lizard]

Makes good sense, that's kinda what I had in mind. I assume there is insulation covering the cooling lines too. I suppose once I expose the insulation through the back I can use a plastic knife or dull instrument to probe through it. Then after installing a shank and running the gas line I can spray a little Great Stuff expanding insulator in there. I certainly don’t want gamble and drill blindly through the back. Like I said, I really don’t want to screw this up. Thanks.

If Mr_Turtlehead's idea doesn't work (I didn't see his post before I made mine, and it might), it sounds like you are on the right track. Not having done this yet, and I probably will this summer, I don't know how much insulation there will be, or if cooling fins will be attached to the lines. Either one shouldn't be too much of a problem to get through.

Spraying the foam sounds like a good idea. I would still put a sheetmetal cover over the cut out in the back for stability. You could paint it white to match and put a rubber grommet in the hole (put one on the inside hole too). When you drill the holes for the screws for the cover, put a few wraps of masking tape up an eighth of an inch or so from the tip of the drill bit, to keep it from penetrating too far.

Keep us posted on your progress!

 

[RichBrewer]

Would it be OK to carefully drill through the fridge with a small drill bit just enough to get through the outer metal then probe around to see if anything is in there?

 

[Lounge Lizard]

Here is a good thread for you guys to check out. Tnlandsailor's Great Fridge Project. RB, he went through the side of his:


https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=2009&highlight=project



Here's what he did and has lots of pictures:


http://sdcollins.home.mindspring.com/BeerFridge.html

 

[Lounge Lizard]

Would it be OK to carefully drill through the fridge with a small drill bit just enough to get through the outer metal then probe around to see if anything is in there?

That might work too... I'm probably trying to turn this into rocket science... lol

 

[AllHoppedUp]

The title for this thread is so misleading . . . what a disappointment.

AHU

 

[mpetty]

You could always call/email the manufacturer.

 

[Prost!]

The title for this thread is so misleading . . . what a disappointment.

AHU

I'm in marketing. It's second nature to get attention.

 

[cbotrice]

I also have a frdige that is to new to mess up and was just considering cutting the weatherstripping that goes around the door and making a path for the co2 line into the fridge. That way it wouldn't be pinched by the door shutting and I could always replace it if I had to. I haven't done it yet because I never seem to have more than two kegs ready at once but that will change soon.

MP Wall

 

[Prost!]

I also have a frdige that is to new to mess up and was just considering cutting the weatherstripping that goes around the door and making a path for the co2 line into the fridge. That way it wouldn't be pinched by the door shutting and I could always replace it if I had to. I haven't done it yet because I never seem to have more than two kegs ready at once but that will change soon.

MP Wall

Don't cut the door seals! It could affect the temp inside and the door won't seal correctly. Besides, replacing seals is expensive and a pain in the ass. You should be able to put holes in the back or side without damaging cooling elements or wires inside if you're very careful. No chainsaws!

The best advice I've heard yet is to carefully punch and drill a tiny hole (1/8" max) through the outside wall of the fridge where you want your gas line to go, only deep enough to penetrate the sheet metal skin. Then, gently probe inside all around the hole with a stiff piece of wire (be sure the fridge is unplugged). If there are no obstructions within 3/4" radius from the small hole, continue to drill straight through to the inside wall. That's your pilot hole for a larger drill bit, Co2 line is only about 9/16" OD. If you do find an obstruction, just fill the tiny hole with putty or a plug and do add a little touchup paint.