Glueing plywood to refrigerator rear?

[mashdar]

I have a top-freezer refrigerator with my kegs in it. I've been keeping the CO2 in the fridge, but I'm moving it to the outside. I'd like to mount it to the rear, but there's a solid, non-removable metal sheet concealing the refrigerant lines to the evaporator.(Condenser lines are coiled and fan-cooled at bottom.)

Rather than YOLOing screws through the sheet metal, I want to glue some 5/8" or 3/4" plywood to the back, and attach everything to that. I'm imagining some general construction adhesive.

Anyone have any thoughts/advice/warnings?

 

[FloppyKnockers]

I'm always in favor of mechanical fasteners before adhesives.

Are there any existing screws, lips, ledges, or gaps that can be used to hang something from? Maybe a Pic of the back of the fridge?

 

[mashdar]

It's very smooth back there. Just about the only "stuff" is the controls panel and the freezer water line. Neither appears suitable for holding 15 lbs.

 

[MaxStout]

You could attach a couple L-brackets to the top edge of the board, having the brackets simply hang it in place, then construction adhesive to keep the board in place on the back.

 

[mashdar]

You could attach a couple L-brackets to the top edge of the board, having the brackets simply hang it in place, then construction adhesive to keep the board in place on the back.

View attachment 865783

And screw the bracket down on the top of the refrigerator?

 

[MaxStout]

And screw the bracket down on the top of the refrigerator?

You can, but not necessary. The brackets just provide vertical support. The adhesive holds the plywood in place.

 

[DuncB]

How about loosening one or two of the screws and then use the protrusion to hang your CO2 cylinder like a picture is hung?

 

[mashdar]

You can, but not necessary. The brackets just provide vertical support. The adhesive holds the plywood in place.

Good point; the bracket takes any shear off the adhesive? I could even put another piece of plywood on top.

 

[Yesfan]

What about those beefy US General magnets from Harbor Freight along with those brackets? They're rated 25lbs each. A full 15lb co2 tanks is about 30lbs.

You could remove the hooks of the magnets and just screw the plywood directly to it. Screw the top of the plywood to the brackets MaxStout linked. You could still apply adhesive to the top of the fridge where the brackets would touch if you feel the magnets wouldn't be enough.

 

[wootz001]

Some double sided VHB mounting tape would probably work for what you are doing.

 

[mashdar]

What about those beefy US General magnets from Harbor Freight along with those brackets? They're rated 25lbs each. A full 15lb co2 tanks is about 30lbs.

You could remove the hooks of the magnets and just screw the plywood directly to it. Screw the top of the plywood to the brackets MaxStout linked. You could still apply adhesive to the top of the fridge where the brackets would touch if you feel the magnets wouldn't be enough.

Hmm That's a good idea. I just tested and the sides and back are magnetic. (The front isn't, which caused some kids-art problems when it was in the kitchen.)

 

[Fixerman]

Another idea: remove the access panel near the top to see if you could get a look at the frame inside. I would think it would be a steel frame (you could check with a magnet). Then screw the panel back on and attach 1x2 strips across the top of the back panel and down the sides as far as needed, by running screws through the 1x2s and into the frame. Then screw your plywood onto the 1x2 frame. This would have the advantage of giving you 3/4" clearance between the plywood and the back panel so you wouldn't run the risk of screws piercing whatever is behind the back panel when you mount the tank. Note: drill pilot holes through the wood and steel frame then use self-tapping screws to secure the 1x2s.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

If this were me, I would attach the plywood on that access panel on the top. Access panel removed, screw from the back, access panel reinstalled. *easy button*

 

[FloppyKnockers]

I just checked out your model number and there's no coils in the walls of the fridge. the evap coils are in the freezer and the condenser coils are underneath (behind the cardboard) - looks like a mini keg. Similar to this...

 

[mashdar]

Yeah that's exactly what it looks like. Is the bar code a model number?

There's a lineset traveling up to freezer, but perhaps I can take the evaporator cover off in the freezer and see where they enter. It's probably at the bottom of the freezer, which means the top would be fair game.

That said, there are probably misc wires etc floating around. I think the angle bracket + magnets will be a good non-invasive way to attach everything. I'll try it and see; the last thing I need is a broken regulator stem etc.

The access panel is just floating on the sheet metal; doesn't look great for weight bearing.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

Not sure what a regulator stem is, but that access panel is far from 'floats'. At any rate, the angle bracket idea is solid.

Good luck with the project.

 

[DuncB]

Reverse logic here why not just stand the cylinder on a pedestal and then use self adhesive velcro or some tape to steady the cylinder from falling.

 

[Yesfan]

Reverse logic here why not just stand the cylinder on a pedestal and then use self adhesive velcro or some tape to steady the cylinder from falling.

Or those US General magnets instead of the tape/velcro......

Adding to your pedestal idea, which I like, make it to where there is a back that you can use a chain or some sort of strapping to steady the cylinder to the pedestal. Screw the magnets to the back of the pedestal and stick it the the back of the fridge.

 

[Fixerman]

If you decide to go with the pedestal idea, which I agree sounds like a good one, thought I'd pass along a pic of my homemade tank stands. Could be a secure top for the pedestal. Scrap plywood and 2x4. Works great. You wouldn't need the base to extend beyond the 2x4s and you could leave the 2x4 off on the side that would be against the fridge. Or not. Just thought I'd pass it along.

 

[mashdar]

I think I'm going to stick with the tank + regulator bank suspended on the top back. I like that it will move with the refrigerator if I roll it out, and also the geometry will work well to enter at the existing hole that formerly fed the water filter.