One Gallon Brew - Mash/Lauter Tun

[BykerBrewer]

I am planning to start AG brewing soon. I am therefore in the process of researching and purchasing new equipment. I have read "How to Brew" and done research on mashing/lautering methods, but have not come across much information on the subject when it comes to brewing 1 gallon batches, which is the only batch size I will be brewing for a while. I have read a lot of positive reviews on the BIAB method for its simplicity with a batch of this size. However, I am primarily concerned with maximizing efficiency and, from what I have read, it sounds as though BIAB will not provide this.

I am considering purchasing a 2 gallon cooler and equipping it with a false bottom, a copper pipe manifold, or stainless steel braids. Any experience with AG small batches or information you may have that would be helpful would be greatly appreciated! Cheers!

 

[Pappers_]

Why are you primarily interested in maximizing efficiency?

 

[corycorycory09]

You can certainly have good efficiency with BIAB. I prefer the mash-tun because I can hold my temp better and it is easier to sparge.

Either method is a fine way to start (and BIAB is cheaper). I use a simple mash tun which is just a cheap coleman cooler (replaced the plastic drain spout with a brass valve) and a bazooka screen. Probably cost me around $30-40 to build and I get good (75-80%) efficiency.

If you are having efficiency issues, consider a finer mill on your grains. You can also simply increase the grain bill a small amount.

 

[isseldor]

Not to hijack the thread, but would mashing for 90 min instead of 60 mins increase efficiency?

 

[cubalz]

I am not sure that that all is really needed. I mostly brew 3, 5 and 10 gallon batches but every once in a while I will do a 1 gallon test batch. Due to the small grain bill, I will use a 6 quart small stock pot as a mash tun without a bag and use a large strainer on top of a 9 quart boil pot to batch sparge the grain after mashing.

 

[cubalz]

Not to hijack the thread, but would mashing for 90 min instead of 60 mins increase efficiency?[/QUOTE

Theoretically yes but you also give up any residual sweetness or mouthfeel as most of the sugars convert out leaving nothing behind but dryness. Just something to keep in mind.

 

[madscientist451]

For one gallon batches you don't need a manifold, pipe, or spigot. Just go to Walmart and get a 5 gallon cooler for about $20 and put a BIAB bag in there. Add the appropriate temp water, put the lid on and forget about it. After an hour, pull the bag, dump your wort to the kettle and start boiling. You can do a sparge if you want. Having the 5 gallon cooler will enable you to increase to 3-4 gallon batches, sand still use a BIAB bag in the cooler. You can add a spigot if you want to. For all the time it takes to brew, I would think 3 gallon would be better than 1 gallon, but perhaps there's a reason for one gallon brews.
Anyway, good luck and cheers!!

 

[MrFancyPlants]

I'll agree with the previous posters and say that mill size has more impact on efficiency than lauter method. I'll also mention that bigger really is better as far as total efficiency goes including time and energy, but I definitely understand the impulse to start small and work your way up. The problem is that you'll end up buying a bunch of stuff that you might not be able to reuse next time once you realize that you want more output for the time invested.

If you really want to start small for a minimal investment (and all grain), do BIAB in a lobster pot or crockpot. You can dunk sparge in another vessle and get pretty darn good efficiency.

My progression was crockpot mash 2G boil > 1 G batch - worked fine, but I only ended up with a handful of beers.

Shotgun 5G kettles BIAB on the gas stove- 22 lbs grain and I ended up with 5G of 9% beer after boiling and trub loss.. really my favorite tasting beer yet.

10G aluminum false bottom mashtun with drain valve for $75 off of CL - my efficiency actually dropped a fair amount even with a nearly full volume sparge.

When I decide to retire and open a brew pub somewhere, I am going to try to get a food safe hot water heater or two as a hot liquor tank. Single step mash and then boil in a big steam kettle. We'll see how/if that works out someday maybe.

 

[Gavin C]

I am primarily concerned with maximizing efficiency

I think you need to question your priorities. I would put beer quality first and far above efficiency in terms of importance.

it sounds as though BIAB will not provide this.

I suppose it depends on what you consider acceptable efficiency.

In my experience the use of a bag as a manifold with a single vessel no sparge approach can result in consistent brewhouse efficiencies at 80% for ~1.05 beers.

For small batches I view it as the optimal approach. For bigger beers and big batches the disadvantages of my type of setup become more relevant.

I'm all for being efficient in one's methods but I don't see it as an end in itself.

Best of luck with your mash-tun setup.

As an aside, some folks take a hybrid approach and line a cooler with a bag. No manifold, false bottom etc, needed.

 

[jekeane]

Not to hijack the thread, but would mashing for 90 min instead of 60 mins increase efficiency?[/QUOTE

Theoretically yes but you also give up any residual sweetness or mouthfeel as most of the sugars convert out leaving nothing behind but dryness. Just something to keep in mind.

I'm interested in a source for this? I only do 90 minute mashes on my smaller BIAB setup and have never had either of those issues.

 

[jekeane]

BIAB is optimal for small batches in my opinion. I do 3.5 gallon batches biab with no sparge when I am looking for a quick brew day. In the 15 or so small batches I have done I have never dropped below 80% and have been into the 90% range a few times. My kettle is shorter and wider which allows me to keep it in the oven to maintain exact mash temps as well. I have a very nice 3 vessel system I haven't fired up in awhile just because I have had good results with biab.

 

[BykerBrewer]

I think you need to question your priorities. I would put beer quality first and far above efficiency in terms of importance.



I suppose it depends on what you consider acceptable efficiency.

In my experience the use of a bag as a manifold with a single vessel no sparge approach can result in consistent efficiencies at 80% for ~1.05 beers.

For small batches I view it as the optimal approach. For bigger beers and big batches the disadvantages of my type of setup become more relevant.

I'm all for being efficient in one's methods but I don't see it as an end in itself.

Best of luck with your mash-tun setup.

As an aside, some folks take a hybrid approach and line a cooler with a bag. No manifold, false bottom etc, needed.

You are right, absolutely beer quality is my number one concern. That is all I want to do is make good beer. If in the process I could avoid spending money on extra grains batch after batch to accommodate a low mash efficiency that would be ideal. However, if BIAB is able to yield a mash efficiency of 80% or so, I would be very pleased. I have read that BIAB typically yielded around 60% or so, and that was the reason for my concern. It sounds like a hybrid system of sorts could be my best option, quality, simple, efficient, and inexpensive.

 

[dstockwell]

Not to hijack the thread, but would mashing for 90 min instead of 60 mins increase efficiency?

Theoretically yes but you also give up any residual sweetness or mouthfeel as most of the sugars convert out leaving nothing behind but dryness. Just something to keep in mind.

I'm confused as well. If you hold the mash temp you are needing then why would this happen.

 

[BykerBrewer]

I'm confused as well. If you hold the mash temp you are needing then why would this happen.

A longer mash will provide more time for Alpha & Beta amylase enzymes to break down larger saccharides into fermentables. More fermentables, relative to the same beer with a smaller proportion of fermentables, will produce a beer with more alcohol and less sweetness, dryer... Just stumbled upon this old thread and figured it shouldn't end on an unanswered question.

 

[C-Rider]

I have know Idea where you got the idea that BIAB means lower efficiency. I've been doing 2 gallon batches for the past 5 years BIAB using a 5 gallon cooler a paint strainer bag and a 2 gallon bucket from HD. My efficiency is 78 to 80 percent. Here is a video I made a few years ago showing my method. I've tweeked a few things but the basic idea is there.