One 5500W Element PID Panel Shopping List

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bknifefight

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Hey Everyone,
I have been talking with a friend, who is an electrician, and we are going to work together to get my brew setup electric. I decided I want a single 5500W element controlled by a PID on a control panel. I am using P-J's diagram, shown here:
Auberin-wiring1-a4-5500w-BIAB-30d6_2.jpg

As I am creating my shopping list for this control panel, the image above shows one piece of the control panel that I am not sure what it is. Can someone tell me what that is? I think it may be the SSR but am not sure. The only change to the diagram is the addition of a timer.

Also, can you look over my shopping list and see if there is anything major that I am missing here?

CONTROL PANEL INNER WORKINGS:
*All if these are from Auber Instruments and have the model number)
1 PID (SYL-2352)
3 Selector Switch (SW2) (1 for main power, 1 for PID/element, 1 for pump)
E-Stop Switch (SW6) (Optional)
Timer (ASL-51)
40A SSR (MGR-1D4840)
Heat Sink (40A SSR) (HS40)
Contactor (2 pole 30A 120VCoil) (CN-PBC302-120V)
2" RTD Sensor (PT100-L50M14)
Female Plug for Element
Female Plug for Pump
Various fuses / resisters
Input Power Cord

On top of this, I will (obviously) need a heating element, control panel enclosure, and a GFCI of some sort. There is a 50A spa panel at Home Depot for a fair price that I was looking at.

Is there anything blatantly missing or wrong with all of this? My friend is the electrician, and I know very little. Any help would be greatly appreciated :)
 
The item that you circled in the diagram that you posted is indeed the SSR.

Your parts list is spot on - but - I'd suggest that you get the Deluxe Cable option for the 2" RTD Sensor (PT100-L50M14). It is only $11 more and well worth it. Also if you opt for the 'pause' & 'reset' buttons on the timer, you will need 2 momentary push button switches - SW7 (choose the colors as well).

I think this is the diagram that you are looking for:

As always, click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")




The diagram shows the EPO as a yellow button. The one from Auber Instruments is a perfect match for you and is a red button.

A sure hope this is of some help for you.

Wishing you the best.

P-J

BTW: The Home Depot spa panel? go for it.!
 
P-J, I hope you didn't whip up that diagram just for me! I am sure that I'm not the only one here who is very thankful for the diagrams you've provided and all the help you've given!
 
P-J, I hope you didn't whip up that diagram just for me! I am sure that I'm not the only one here who is very thankful for the diagrams you've provided and all the help you've given.

I have a question about the flash buzzer alarms though. Are they just a flashing light or is there a sound as well?

Here is the unit: Flashing Buzzer, 110 or 240V AC

Be sure to choose the voltage for it when you order. Also when you go to the page there is a demo video of it.

Hope this helps.

P-J

(BTW - I drew the diagram some time ago 05-10-2012. No problem.)
 
Sorry for the stupid question, but, I would want the 240V, correct? For any equipment that I have a choice of voltage, I would want the 240V?
 
With the wiring diagram you provided, what would they be? With the addition of the timer, it is exactly what I am looking to build.
 
With the wiring diagram you provided, what would they be? With the addition of the timer, it is exactly what I am looking to build.
You really need to look at the diagram and understand it before you order anything.

The flash buzzers are powered from the neutral and line1. Therefore they are 120V units.
 
Thank you! Sorry about any stupid questions, like I had said, I know very little and am going to be relying on the help of my buddy with all of this build. I sent him the new diagram to look over.
 
You could also put the 2 flash buzzers on the same circuit and cut one of them out if you want to save a few bucks. The only issue is that you would have to determine for yourself which alarm is going off
 
I see in the diagram you use a contactor for the element but not the main power. Why is that.
 
I see in the diagram you use a contactor for the element but not the main power. Why is that.

many people use a nearble spa panel breaker as the main power switch. Plus even if you dont go that route, you only need a contractor to kill the higher amp draw components (the elements) everything else draws well under 10 amps like the pids and timer and such so they can be turned on and off directly with a single 10a rated switch. (actually all 3 or my pids plus my timer will run fine off a single 1/2 amp fused circuit.)
 
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