Nottingham yeast time?

[ChillWill]

Just a quick one as I couldn't find much or any information on the actual time Nottingham yeast 'tends' to take. I've got an IPA on the go at the moment (used a lot of hops for aroma and enough for 60IBU) and I've still got 10 bubbles a minute coming out my airlock 9 days after pitching yeast.

I can't really take a gravity reading until transfer to secondary (equipment issues, I won't go into it).

Fermentation started off pretty healthily, after 36 hrs a small amount of krausen had made its way through my blow off tubes, but only a small amount and not as much as some previous batches Nottingham has done, but they only took 7 days before hitting FG.

I'm thinking as it's warming up outside my heating is on less often which means where my fermenters are is usually around 3-5F lower. Could this make so much difference?

Just wondering on other peoples experience and if I should take action (yeast nutrients, pitch more yeast, try and get temp up), or just relax and let it run its course.

Also, I've got some kwik-clear to try, do I need to pitch more yeast at bottling when using it? Or will it be ok.

Cheers!

 

[COLObrewer]

Too many variables that affect fermentation to put a timeline on it, one fermentation could be different from the next. Fermentation is done when FG is reached and is stable.

It is RDWHAHB time.

 

[Revvy]

Fermentation is done when it's done. Like Colo said it's dependant on many variables, and airlock bubbling isn't one of them. Your beer could be done and still bubbling, or it could be fermenting with not a single bubble...so rather than counting bubbles do the one thing that really tells you what's going on, take a hydrometer reading.

 

[ChillWill]

I'll take a hydro sample in a few days when I transfer to secondary. The main concern is the lack of flocculation and murkyness of the beer, as it still has a current. Should I wait for it to clear or transfer in a few days anyway? I can't really take a sample while it's in primary due to lack of equipment.

 

[shutupjojo]

Fermentation is done when it's done. Like Colo said it's dependant on many variables, and airlock bubbling isn't one of them. Your beer could be done and still bubbling, or it could be fermenting with not a single bubble...so rather than counting bubbles do the one thing that really tells you what's going on, take a hydrometer reading.

I usually take readings with this yeast because it tends to ferment the **** out of my beer . Take readings and stop it at the gravity you want because it will probably go beyond that if you let it.

 

[ChillWill]

Might end us with a very low fg as I mashed quite low temp with very few speciality malts, just a touch of crystal in fact.

 

[COLObrewer]

. . . . I can't really take a sample while it's in primary due to lack of equipment.

I don't understand your lack of equipment statement. If it's in a carboy get a turkey baster, sanitize it and take samples, I have also used the autosiphon for this or you could even use some sanitized tubing. If it's a bucket you can sanitize a cup or anything really and dip it in.

Simply wait 3 weeks, then take your sample, check gravity, taste, check gravity in a couple of days, bottle or rack.

. . . . . as it still has a current. . . . .

Don't understand this either

 

[ChillWill]

my equipment issue is lack of turkey baster lol.

The current I guess is a bit like a convectional current? I guess it's CO2 coming from the lower parts of the fermenter where it is collecting on trub/cold break or whatever and is pushing various particles upward which then fall back down. Usually this stops after 7 days and then everything drops out of suspension and the beer clears.

Sorry if I sound like a complete newb..... it's because I am haha. Think this is batch 6. Just checked and it actually looks like it's begining to clear (less clumps of trub / flocculated yeast in suspension, just very cloudy still). I guess the large amount of hops I used have just made it stay cloudy for much longer and the lower ferm temp has made more CO2 stay in the liquid which could explain why it's still bubbling when fermentation has *probably* stopped.

My course of action will be let it sit as it is until it's been in there for 14 days, rack to secondary and dry hop (and take gravity reading of course!). The assess what I need to do with relation to clearing it (finings & cold crashing).

Also, I've just got some Kwik clear which I've never used before. Will I need to pitch extra yeast when bottling? I've still got some notty yeast left so if I need to it won't be an issue, but would rather not do things I don't need to do.

 

[COLObrewer]

. . . . . The current I guess is a bit like a convectional current? I guess it's CO2 coming from the lower parts of the fermenter where it is collecting on trub/cold break or whatever and is pushing various particles upward which then fall back down. Usually this stops after 7 days and then everything drops out of suspension and the beer clears. . . .

This is called fermentation, if it is colder than your normal fermentations that is why it is taking longer. There are also numerous other factors beyond our control that affect fermentation.

. . . fermentation has *probably* stopped. . . . . .

You have no way of knowing this until you have taken gravity readings, NO WAY of knowing. I think you get the idea.

. . . . . Also, I've just got some Kwik clear which I've never used before. Will I need to pitch extra yeast when bottling? I've still got some notty yeast left so if I need to it won't be an issue, but would rather not do things I don't need to do.

I've never used it either, but I usually wait till my beer clears on it's own before I bottle. I have used gelatin fining when I've had clearing problems, but there was still enough yeast in suspension to carbonate.

Brew on my friend By the way, we are all still newb's.

 

[RM-MN]

Since you still have bubbles and the "current' sounds like you still have active fermentation. Wait it out. Cooler temperatures will make a slower ferment too.

Think about why you are going to secondary this beer and when. Some people have reported good results from dry hopping right in the primary fermenter and say that it saves time and has less chance of oxidation and contamination since you don't have to move your beer. Make sure the active ferment is over or your escaping CO2 will take the aroma out with it.

 

[ChillWill]

Thanks for the tips, I'll go with my 2 week primary plan and relax. Whole leaf hops mean no primary dry hopping as I have to use muslin bags which won't go through the opening of my carbouys, think I may look into pellets in future though. Cheers!

 

[bja]

I usually take readings with this yeast because it tends to ferment the **** out of my beer . Take readings and stop it at the gravity you want because it will probably go beyond that if you let it.

OK, exactly how do you stop it from fermenting?

 

[ChillWill]

Can't remember which but you add a chemical which stops the yeast working. Usually used in wine to provide desired sweetness I think. No good for bottle conditioning though.

 

[bja]

Can't remember which but you add a chemical which stops the yeast working. Usually used in wine to provide desired sweetness I think. No good for bottle conditioning though.

Potassium Sorbate will not stop an active fermentation. When used in wine, it stops the yeast from reproducing thereby preventing a renewed fermentation when back sweetening.

 

[Salmonhouse]

I purchased a wine theif from the homebrew shop to take samples, i strongly recommned you do something similar.

Racking it wont help you ferment much if its below your desired FG. To stop fermentation and clear your beer, do a cold crash. It wouldn't hurt to let it sit an extra week or two in the primary if you can stand the patience, it will only make your beer better.

 

[ChillWill]

The bubbling slowed and beer cleared so racked to secondary today with gravity at 1.013 when I was targeting 1.014. Dry hopping now. Will use some finings in about and week to clear as it's still a bit hazy due to the amount of hops in there.